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#1
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Yellow Jackets in siding... help?
Hello all,
I've got a colony of Yellow Jackets residing in the siding of my house right next to my front door (nice, huh?). All of the sprays I've found are expecting to be sprayed at an exposed hive, soaking it and killing the residents. The only one I found to sound at all promising (supposedly "foamed" to stay in contact longer) failed to do much more than run down the house really fast. I really don't want to spend $200 - $300 to have someone come out and kill the little nasties, but reading the labels in the pest control aisle of Lowes is about the depth of my knowledge on the subject. Anyone have any suggestions? - John |
#2
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John, I had them go into a hole under my front storm door once. When ever
we went in or out and the door closed we tkook a change of pushing them into the house. I soaked a piece of cloth in gasoline and stuffed it into the hole. The funes got those that were inside and kept those outside from getting in. You might try it and then after a few days, remove the cloth. Or you might tape something over the entrance for a few days until they give up. You can remove it later. Dwayne "John" wrote in message news Hello all, I've got a colony of Yellow Jackets residing in the siding of my house right next to my front door (nice, huh?). All of the sprays I've found are expecting to be sprayed at an exposed hive, soaking it and killing the residents. The only one I found to sound at all promising (supposedly "foamed" to stay in contact longer) failed to do much more than run down the house really fast. I really don't want to spend $200 - $300 to have someone come out and kill the little nasties, but reading the labels in the pest control aisle of Lowes is about the depth of my knowledge on the subject. Anyone have any suggestions? - John |
#3
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I have the same problem. The one thing that worries be is that where
there's a hive, there should be honey. Even If I kill the bees, I need to remove the hive, or have a huge ant problem later. So should I spray, wait, and then pull off the siding to get to the hive? |
#4
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Had the same problem last year...
I researched it and it sounded to me that nothing short of ripping the siding off (wearing protective gear, of course) and treating the hive would work. Wasp/Hornet sprays are not effective on yellow jackets - they just make them angry. I *did* find that the indoor foggers are toxic to yellow jackets. So, with nothing to lose but $5 on a pack of indoor foggers and perhaps an additional sting or two, I tried the following: - I took an 8' piece of dowel (2x4 would have worked nicely as well) and used duct tape to affix one of the foggers to the end, strategically angling the outlet so the spray would shoot up under the siding - I practiced leaning this contraption against the siding - well away from the bees - to see if I could do it quickly and if the fogger would stay in the right position - I waited until dusk. All my research said that dusk was best because the majority of the bees would be in the hive. - I opened the fogger, leaned the contraption against the house, and ran like hell The next day, there were *hundreds* of dead yellow jackets on the ground below the siding. I repeated my treatment once more the following evening, just to be sure. Result - no more yellow jackets. Try at your own risk obviously - I am not a professional exterminator, and indoor foggers were never meant to be used in this fashion. If you do try it, make sure the fogger list "yellow jackets" in the pest it can exterminate. -Mike On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 02:46:54 GMT, John wrote: Hello all, I've got a colony of Yellow Jackets residing in the siding of my house right next to my front door (nice, huh?). All of the sprays I've found are expecting to be sprayed at an exposed hive, soaking it and killing the residents. The only one I found to sound at all promising (supposedly "foamed" to stay in contact longer) failed to do much more than run down the house really fast. I really don't want to spend $200 - $300 to have someone come out and kill the little nasties, but reading the labels in the pest control aisle of Lowes is about the depth of my knowledge on the subject. Anyone have any suggestions? - John |
#5
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Michael Russell wrote:
Wasp/Hornet sprays are not effective on yellow jackets - they just make them angry. My experience is that the wasp/hornet sprays *are* effective against yellowjackets. I've "nuked" several nests this way, the most recent being within the past month. Daniel B. Martin |
#6
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I don't believe that yellow jackets make honey but a certain
someone can tell us all with certainty. Raleighgirl "meexie" wrote in message oups.com... | I have the same problem. The one thing that worries be is that where | there's a hive, there should be honey. Even If I kill the bees, I need | to remove the hive, or have a huge ant problem later. | | So should I spray, wait, and then pull off the siding to get to the | hive? | |
#7
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On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 19:13:10 GMT, "Daniel B. Martin"
wrote: Michael Russell wrote: Wasp/Hornet sprays are not effective on yellow jackets - they just make them angry. My experience is that the wasp/hornet sprays *are* effective against yellowjackets. I've "nuked" several nests this way, the most recent being within the past month. Daniel B. Martin Slightly off topic, but I had some yellow jackets in their usual place... in the ground. I discovered it by getting stung while mowing my lawn. I kept procrastinating on spraying them at dusk, and after about a week (I could see them coming and going every day), my dog decided to go pee on the yellow jacket hole. I was yelling at him to "COME HERE", afraid he would be stung, but he kept peeing away. His feet must have been placed far enough from the hole to not get them going after him, and after depositing about a gallon of liquid, it must have all run into the hole. I haven't seen a yellow jacket since. Well, if you have a very tall male dog, maybe this isn't off topic. Kira |
#8
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On 2005-08-26, Kira Dirlik !! wrote:
On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 19:13:10 GMT, "Daniel B. Martin" wrote: Michael Russell wrote: Wasp/Hornet sprays are not effective on yellow jackets - they just make them angry. My experience is that the wasp/hornet sprays *are* effective against yellowjackets. I've "nuked" several nests this way, the most recent being within the past month. Daniel B. Martin Slightly off topic, but I had some yellow jackets in their usual place... in the ground. I discovered it by getting stung while mowing my lawn. I kept procrastinating on spraying them at dusk, and after about a week (I could see them coming and going every day), my dog decided to go pee on the yellow jacket hole. I was yelling at him to "COME HERE", afraid he would be stung, but he kept peeing away. His feet must have been placed far enough from the hole to not get them going after him, and after depositing about a gallon of liquid, it must have all run into the hole. I haven't seen a yellow jacket since. Well, if you have a very tall male dog, maybe this isn't off topic. Kira To the person thinking they had bees, you need to observe and find out if they are bees or yellowjackets. Most likely they are yellow jackets. To both of you, you need to locate the access hole. That is where the spray has to go. Wait until night fall - I mean dark not dusk. They don't fly much at night. Have someone hold a flashlight - and have a clear exit in case some do take flight. I agree with Dan the hornet spray takes them down pretty fast. because it is a stream you should be able to aim carefully and shoot the stream into the access hole. Make sure there is on ly one hole there may be another if the siding is warped. When you spray come at it from all angles to get as much coverage inside as possible. Instead of hornet spray you may find the gallon of ortho home pest control roach and ant spray will work. THe new containers now have a pump built into the handle. You pull it firmly back and adjust the nozzle to stream and it will spray a stream for 5-10 seconds. Now if they have gotten behind the insulation you may also have to stick a small stick or wire in the hole to push it back and that will allow you to get more in. The stick or wire should be thin but ridgid since you still need room to get the stream of insecticide in also. There is danger of getting stung but the odds are lessened at night. If you have reactions then it might be better to pay someone. I had some in a wall many years ago and I may have even used some WD40 since you can put that little spray tube on it. I can't remember exactly what I used. They were near a wall outlet and when I removed the cover to it I could see them and I think I blasted them from the inside also. That is the othere danger is that they find a way inside the house. I don't think the house bombs someone suggested will do much in the walls. Plug up the hole once you have sprayed. Good luck and be careful. Try these suggestions at your own risk - so if you have any doubts call a professional as it may be cheaper in the long run. Oh, and if it is bees, you probably would not have ants from the honey since the insecticide would get the ants. -- Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. is a garbage address. |
#9
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Just saw this on another news group, you might consider giving
it a try. http://alaskaoutdoorjournal.com/Depa...wjacket50.html Regards, Daniel -- -------------------------------------------------------------- | | -------------------------------------------------------------- |
#10
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On 2005-08-27, Daniel Barton wrote:
Just saw this on another news group, you might consider giving it a try. http://alaskaoutdoorjournal.com/Depa...wjacket50.html Regards, Daniel Now that is clever. I wonder if you could rig up a very small fan to create down draft if you would get more or less? The down draft would increase the odds of them hitting the soapy water, but it might also keep them away from the fish. Or possibley make it a vacuum. I have seen that used with a buglight of the kind used in the bug zappers. The bugs fly to the light and get sucked in the water and become fish food. But just by it self this seems like it would work just as the author said. -- Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. is a garbage address. |
#11
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I had learned of a less toxic method, although applying it to house siding
would be a challenge. You cover the jacket nest entry hole (yes, at night as previously mentioned) with a glass bowl. The jackets can't escape, but as they see daylight, they can't figure out to dig a new entry hole. They eventually starve to death. This worked for me for a ground nest. Normally I'd just let them do their thing while I do mine, but we each had a serious claim on the same patch of ground. -Todd wrote in message . .. On 2005-08-27, Daniel Barton wrote: Just saw this on another news group, you might consider giving it a try. http://alaskaoutdoorjournal.com/Depa...wjacket50.html Regards, Daniel Now that is clever. I wonder if you could rig up a very small fan to create down draft if you would get more or less? The down draft would increase the odds of them hitting the soapy water, but it might also keep them away from the fish. Or possibley make it a vacuum. I have seen that used with a buglight of the kind used in the bug zappers. The bugs fly to the light and get sucked in the water and become fish food. But just by it self this seems like it would work just as the author said. -- Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. is a garbage address. |
#12
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#13
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On 2005-08-28, Mister Sensitive wrote:
I had learned of a less toxic method, although applying it to house siding would be a challenge. You cover the jacket nest entry hole (yes, at night as previously mentioned) with a glass bowl. The jackets can't escape, but as they see daylight, they can't figure out to dig a new entry hole. They eventually starve to death. This worked for me for a ground nest. Normally I'd just let them do their thing while I do mine, but we each had a serious claim on the same patch of ground. My only concern with that in the siding is if you close their exit then they may find another exit that leads in your house, or attic or crawlspace. If I close the exit I want something in there that will make them die quicker than starvation. One thought for relatively non toxic would be a carbon dioxide blast from a small fire extinguisher to freeze them to death. Well I just googled and a small co2 extinguisher costs over $100. So much for that idea. -Todd wrote in message . .. On 2005-08-27, Daniel Barton wrote: Just saw this on another news group, you might consider giving it a try. http://alaskaoutdoorjournal.com/Depa...wjacket50.html Regards, Daniel Now that is clever. I wonder if you could rig up a very small fan to create down draft if you would get more or less? The down draft would increase the odds of them hitting the soapy water, but it might also keep them away from the fish. Or possibley make it a vacuum. I have seen that used with a buglight of the kind used in the bug zappers. The bugs fly to the light and get sucked in the water and become fish food. But just by it self this seems like it would work just as the author said. -- Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. is a garbage address. -- Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. is a garbage address. |
#14
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On 2005-08-29, John wrote:
On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 16:40:38 GMT, wrote: Or possibly make it a vacuum. What about just using a vacuum? Late at night, armed with a shop-vac quarter-filled with soapy water, nozzle firmly placed (duct-taped) over the (only?) entrance. Flip the switch and suck the little buggers right out of the siding! Sound feasible? I've got all the parts... no raw fish and no waiting... - John Interesting. Don't know if it is practical to do, but worth a try. I know there is a guy in the mid west that catches Praire dogs with a real big vacuum and they land in a foam lined container because he wants them alive. -- Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please. is a garbage address. |
#15
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Yellowjackets have bright, shiny yellow with black stripes, slim,
with no 'fur'. Honeybees have fatter bodies, duller stripes, are rather fat and fuzzy looking, and are getting extremely rare around here. Yellowjackets are related to wasps and hornets. Their nests are paper, often underground, and there is no honey. Also, they don't have barbed stingers, so they can sting over and over, unlike honeybees which sting once, and leave their barbed stinger along with their innards behind .... We killed a huge nest of 'em in our yard a year or two ago, as I reported on this list. Went out at night with a flashlight and large glass bowl, sprayed the entrance hole for a good 5 seconds with a heavy-duty hornet killer, and covered it with the bowl. Next day there were hundreds of dead yellowjackets around the entrance, including one or two queens. No survivors. A few nights later, some critter (possum or coon) dug up the nest, perhaps looking for larvae to eat... I could not believe how huge the nest was, with big slabs of paper constructions and thousands of chambers containing dead larvae. The whole thing has since sunk in, creating a depression in the lawn that I'll have to fill in one of these days... If you manage to kill off your nest, I expect the ants will carry away the remains eventually. Sue Sue On 26 Aug 2005 07:58:37 -0700, "meexie" wrote: I have the same problem. The one thing that worries be is that where there's a hive, there should be honey. Even If I kill the bees, I need to remove the hive, or have a huge ant problem later. So should I spray, wait, and then pull off the siding to get to the hive? |
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