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Old 11-12-2005, 07:25 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
tbell
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

I have a Den. laevifolium, nicely crowded in a 1 1/2" pot, which got off to a
rocky start when my GH overheated 2 years ago, but is now leafing out
beautifully. Question: Is it time to dry it out and stop fertilizing, and if
so, how completely and for how long?

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70

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Old 11-12-2005, 08:14 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
GARLAND HANSON
 
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Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

Good question, Tom. I've been wondering the same. Mine is in a 2" pot and
has filled the pot over the summer. Lots of leaves and new growths at this
writing. I'll await the same answer!
Garland


"tbell" wrote in message
...
I have a Den. laevifolium, nicely crowded in a 1 1/2" pot, which got off to
a
rocky start when my GH overheated 2 years ago, but is now leafing out
beautifully. Question: Is it time to dry it out and stop fertilizing, and
if
so, how completely and for how long?

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70



  #3   Report Post  
Old 12-12-2005, 09:32 AM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
Dave Gillingham
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

Tom, Garland, let me quote from one of my bibles - "Dendrobium and its
Relatives" by Lavarack, Harris & Stocker. All three are highly experienced &
qualified, & their work involves them in the orchids of the region from which D
laevifolium comes.

"... occurs in several islands to the east of New Guinea ... It grows from about
300 m to 2300 m altitude, in damp moss forests where it often occurs low down on
tree trunks ... While this species can be grown in warm conditions, cool to
intermediate temperatures are preferable. It can be grown on a slab, but a pot
of well-drained mixture is best, as the plants must not be allowed to dry out.
Year round heavy watering and shaded conditions with high humidity are
necessary."

It does *not* need to be dried out, & (depending on how cold your winters are)
do no more than reduce fertilising& watering in the colder months.

I have a plant that I was growing successfully in sphagnum in a saucer. Since
nearly all my collection is in bark & this was watered in summer with the rest,
it was *sodden*. And it did fine. Kept the sphagnum at least damp through the
winter. I've worried about that, & recently repotted into bark in the saucer.
Not sure if I did the right thing.

Forgive me for climbing on to a hobby horse for a moment: Dendrobes come from
such an incredible range of environments (hot wet steamy jungles, Aussie monsoon
areas with hot *dry* weather for 9 months - no winter, up to China, into the
Himalayan foothills, evergreen forests, deciduous forests) that the old mantra
of "water in the growing season, dry out in the resting period" can well be
disastrous for a plant, depending on where it comes from. You *must* know a
species' natural environment, and at least get somewhere near that. They are
adaptable to a degree - I have tropical phalaenanthes growing within metres of
temperate dendrocorynes, with the only considerations I can modify being light &
watering. But you still need to be aware of their preferred environment. Use a
library - you only need to look it up once for each species.

Complex hybrids? Ask someone who grows them, or guess from their constituent
species.

Here endeth the sermon for today :-)

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:25:34 -0800, tbell wrote:

I have a Den. laevifolium, nicely crowded in a 1 1/2" pot, which got off to a
rocky start when my GH overheated 2 years ago, but is now leafing out
beautifully. Question: Is it time to dry it out and stop fertilizing, and if
so, how completely and for how long?

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70

Dave Gillingham
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To email me remove the .private from my email address.
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:59 AM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
GARLAND HANSON
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

Thanks Dave. I'm pretty much giving the plant the conditions you describe.
It is growing wonderfully. I'll just be patient for a while and see what
happens.
Garland


"Dave Gillingham" wrote in message
...
Tom, Garland, let me quote from one of my bibles - "Dendrobium and its
Relatives" by Lavarack, Harris & Stocker. All three are highly
experienced &
qualified, & their work involves them in the orchids of the region from
which D
laevifolium comes.

"... occurs in several islands to the east of New Guinea ... It grows from
about
300 m to 2300 m altitude, in damp moss forests where it often occurs low
down on
tree trunks ... While this species can be grown in warm conditions, cool
to
intermediate temperatures are preferable. It can be grown on a slab, but
a pot
of well-drained mixture is best, as the plants must not be allowed to dry
out.
Year round heavy watering and shaded conditions with high humidity are
necessary."

It does *not* need to be dried out, & (depending on how cold your winters
are)
do no more than reduce fertilising& watering in the colder months.

I have a plant that I was growing successfully in sphagnum in a saucer.
Since
nearly all my collection is in bark & this was watered in summer with the
rest,
it was *sodden*. And it did fine. Kept the sphagnum at least damp through
the
winter. I've worried about that, & recently repotted into bark in the
saucer.
Not sure if I did the right thing.

Forgive me for climbing on to a hobby horse for a moment: Dendrobes come
from
such an incredible range of environments (hot wet steamy jungles, Aussie
monsoon
areas with hot *dry* weather for 9 months - no winter, up to China, into
the
Himalayan foothills, evergreen forests, deciduous forests) that the old
mantra
of "water in the growing season, dry out in the resting period" can well
be
disastrous for a plant, depending on where it comes from. You *must* know
a
species' natural environment, and at least get somewhere near that. They
are
adaptable to a degree - I have tropical phalaenanthes growing within
metres of
temperate dendrocorynes, with the only considerations I can modify being
light &
watering. But you still need to be aware of their preferred environment.
Use a
library - you only need to look it up once for each species.

Complex hybrids? Ask someone who grows them, or guess from their
constituent
species.

Here endeth the sermon for today :-)

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:25:34 -0800, tbell wrote:

I have a Den. laevifolium, nicely crowded in a 1 1/2" pot, which got off
to a
rocky start when my GH overheated 2 years ago, but is now leafing out
beautifully. Question: Is it time to dry it out and stop fertilizing, and
if
so, how completely and for how long?

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70

Dave Gillingham
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To email me remove the .private from my email address.



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Old 12-12-2005, 11:05 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
tbell
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 01:32:52 -0800, Dave Gillingham wrote
(in article ):

Tom, Garland, let me quote from one of my bibles - "Dendrobium and its
Relatives" by Lavarack, Harris & Stocker. All three are highly experienced &
qualified, & their work involves them in the orchids of the region from which


D
laevifolium comes.

"... occurs in several islands to the east of New Guinea ... It grows from
about
300 m to 2300 m altitude, in damp moss forests where it often occurs low down


on
tree trunks ... While this species can be grown in warm conditions, cool to
intermediate temperatures are preferable. It can be grown on a slab, but a
pot
of well-drained mixture is best, as the plants must not be allowed to dry

out.
Year round heavy watering and shaded conditions with high humidity are
necessary."

It does *not* need to be dried out, & (depending on how cold your winters

are)
do no more than reduce fertilising& watering in the colder months.

I have a plant that I was growing successfully in sphagnum in a saucer.

Since
nearly all my collection is in bark & this was watered in summer with the
rest,
it was *sodden*. And it did fine. Kept the sphagnum at least damp through

the
winter. I've worried about that, & recently repotted into bark in the
saucer.
Not sure if I did the right thing.

Forgive me for climbing on to a hobby horse for a moment: Dendrobes come

from
such an incredible range of environments (hot wet steamy jungles, Aussie
monsoon
areas with hot *dry* weather for 9 months - no winter, up to China, into the
Himalayan foothills, evergreen forests, deciduous forests) that the old

mantra
of "water in the growing season, dry out in the resting period" can well be
disastrous for a plant, depending on where it comes from. You *must* know a
species' natural environment, and at least get somewhere near that. They are
adaptable to a degree - I have tropical phalaenanthes growing within metres

of
temperate dendrocorynes, with the only considerations I can modify being
light &
watering. But you still need to be aware of their preferred environment.
Use a
library - you only need to look it up once for each species.

Complex hybrids? Ask someone who grows them, or guess from their constituent
species.

Here endeth the sermon for today :-)

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:25:34 -0800, tbell wrote:


Thank you, Dave. That was a much better than average sermon!

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70



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Old 13-12-2005, 07:19 AM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
Dave Gillingham
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 15:05:31 -0800, tbell wrote:

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 01:32:52 -0800, Dave Gillingham wrote
(in article ):

Tom, Garland, let me quote from one of my bibles - "Dendrobium and its
Relatives" by Lavarack, Harris & Stocker. All three are highly experienced &
qualified, & their work involves them in the orchids of the region from which


D
laevifolium comes.

"... occurs in several islands to the east of New Guinea ... It grows from
about
300 m to 2300 m altitude, in damp moss forests where it often occurs low down


on
tree trunks ... While this species can be grown in warm conditions, cool to
intermediate temperatures are preferable. It can be grown on a slab, but a
pot
of well-drained mixture is best, as the plants must not be allowed to dry

out.
Year round heavy watering and shaded conditions with high humidity are
necessary."

It does *not* need to be dried out, & (depending on how cold your winters

are)
do no more than reduce fertilising& watering in the colder months.

I have a plant that I was growing successfully in sphagnum in a saucer.

Since
nearly all my collection is in bark & this was watered in summer with the
rest,
it was *sodden*. And it did fine. Kept the sphagnum at least damp through

the
winter. I've worried about that, & recently repotted into bark in the
saucer.
Not sure if I did the right thing.

Forgive me for climbing on to a hobby horse for a moment: Dendrobes come

from
such an incredible range of environments (hot wet steamy jungles, Aussie
monsoon
areas with hot *dry* weather for 9 months - no winter, up to China, into the
Himalayan foothills, evergreen forests, deciduous forests) that the old

mantra
of "water in the growing season, dry out in the resting period" can well be
disastrous for a plant, depending on where it comes from. You *must* know a
species' natural environment, and at least get somewhere near that. They are
adaptable to a degree - I have tropical phalaenanthes growing within metres

of
temperate dendrocorynes, with the only considerations I can modify being
light &
watering. But you still need to be aware of their preferred environment.
Use a
library - you only need to look it up once for each species.

Complex hybrids? Ask someone who grows them, or guess from their constituent
species.

Here endeth the sermon for today :-)

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:25:34 -0800, tbell wrote:


Thank you, Dave. That was a much better than average sermon!

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70



And closing the file is so much easier than getting up & walking out of the
church :-)
Dave Gillingham
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To email me remove the .private from my email address.
  #7   Report Post  
Old 14-12-2005, 01:30 AM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
tbell
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium


Here endeth the sermon for today :-)

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:25:34 -0800, tbell wrote:


Thank you, Dave. That was a much better than average sermon!

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70



And closing the file is so much easier than getting up & walking out of the
church :-)
Dave Gillingham

LOL =-)

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70

  #8   Report Post  
Old 14-12-2005, 08:56 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
keith ;-\)
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium


"Dave Gillingham" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 15:05:31 -0800, tbell wrote:

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 01:32:52 -0800, Dave Gillingham wrote
(in article ):

Tom, Garland, let me quote from one of my bibles - "Dendrobium and its
Relatives" by Lavarack, Harris & Stocker. All three are highly

experienced &
qualified, & their work involves them in the orchids of the region from

which

D
laevifolium comes.

"... occurs in several islands to the east of New Guinea ... It grows

from
about
300 m to 2300 m altitude, in damp moss forests where it often occurs

low down

on
tree trunks ... While this species can be grown in warm conditions,

cool to
intermediate temperatures are preferable. It can be grown on a slab,

but a
pot
of well-drained mixture is best, as the plants must not be allowed to

dry
out.
Year round heavy watering and shaded conditions with high humidity are
necessary."

It does *not* need to be dried out, & (depending on how cold your

winters
are)
do no more than reduce fertilising& watering in the colder months.

I have a plant that I was growing successfully in sphagnum in a saucer.

Since
nearly all my collection is in bark & this was watered in summer with

the
rest,
it was *sodden*. And it did fine. Kept the sphagnum at least damp

through
the
winter. I've worried about that, & recently repotted into bark in the
saucer.
Not sure if I did the right thing.

Forgive me for climbing on to a hobby horse for a moment: Dendrobes

come
from
such an incredible range of environments (hot wet steamy jungles,

Aussie
monsoon
areas with hot *dry* weather for 9 months - no winter, up to China,

into the
Himalayan foothills, evergreen forests, deciduous forests) that the old

mantra
of "water in the growing season, dry out in the resting period" can

well be
disastrous for a plant, depending on where it comes from. You *must*

know a
species' natural environment, and at least get somewhere near that.

They are
adaptable to a degree - I have tropical phalaenanthes growing within

metres
of
temperate dendrocorynes, with the only considerations I can modify

being
light &
watering. But you still need to be aware of their preferred

environment.
Use a
library - you only need to look it up once for each species.

Complex hybrids? Ask someone who grows them, or guess from their

constituent
species.

Here endeth the sermon for today :-)

On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 11:25:34 -0800, tbell wrote:


Thank you, Dave. That was a much better than average sermon!

Tom
Walnut Creek, CA
Nikon D70



And closing the file is so much easier than getting up & walking out of

the
church :-)
Dave Gillingham
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----
To email me remove the .private from my email address.


Dave,did you find out what the dendrobium is ref den chrysotoxum or is it?
Thanks Keith


  #9   Report Post  
Old 15-12-2005, 09:34 AM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
Dave Gillingham
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:56:22 GMT, "keith ;-\)"
wrote:
[big snip]

Dave,did you find out what the dendrobium is ref den chrysotoxum or is it?
Thanks Keith


Keith, thanks for the interest. One of the members of our society, who is
involved with orchids in the herbarium & has a special interest in the
Dendrobes, suggested D. gibsonii. That's from Section Dendrobium, which
surprises me a little having read up on it after last Tuesday's meeting. My
plant's inflorescence started life in a sheath some 50 mm (2 inches) or more
long. In my admittedly very limited experience, plants from that section all
form individual buds rather than the inflorescence bursting from a sheath. But
I did mention the sheath to him, & his knowledge is certainly far superior to
mine.
Dave Gillingham
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To email me remove the .private from my email address.
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Old 15-12-2005, 09:06 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
keith ;-\)
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium


"Dave Gillingham" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:56:22 GMT, "keith ;-\)"
wrote:
[big snip]

Dave,did you find out what the dendrobium is ref den chrysotoxum or is

it?
Thanks Keith


Keith, thanks for the interest. One of the members of our society, who is
involved with orchids in the herbarium & has a special interest in the
Dendrobes, suggested D. gibsonii. That's from Section Dendrobium, which
surprises me a little having read up on it after last Tuesday's meeting.

My
plant's inflorescence started life in a sheath some 50 mm (2 inches) or

more
long. In my admittedly very limited experience, plants from that section

all
form individual buds rather than the inflorescence bursting from a sheath.

But
I did mention the sheath to him, & his knowledge is certainly far superior

to
mine.
Dave Gillingham
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----
To email me remove the .private from my email address.

Hi Dave, have you seen my post to you on ABPO?
I suggested it looked like den fimbriatum var oculatum?
Thanks Keith




  #11   Report Post  
Old 16-12-2005, 04:10 AM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
Dave Gillingham
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium

On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:06:56 GMT, "keith ;-\)" wrote:


"Dave Gillingham" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:56:22 GMT, "keith ;-\)"
wrote:
[big snip]

Dave,did you find out what the dendrobium is ref den chrysotoxum or is

it?
Thanks Keith


Keith, thanks for the interest. One of the members of our society, who is
involved with orchids in the herbarium & has a special interest in the
Dendrobes, suggested D. gibsonii. That's from Section Dendrobium, which
surprises me a little having read up on it after last Tuesday's meeting.

My
plant's inflorescence started life in a sheath some 50 mm (2 inches) or

more
long. In my admittedly very limited experience, plants from that section

all
form individual buds rather than the inflorescence bursting from a sheath.

But
I did mention the sheath to him, & his knowledge is certainly far superior

to
mine.
Dave Gillingham
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----
To email me remove the .private from my email address.

Hi Dave, have you seen my post to you on ABPO?
I suggested it looked like den fimbriatum var oculatum?
Thanks Keith

Keith, same reservation since it also is from Section Dendrobium - how does the
inflorescence on fimbriatum var occulatum initiate? Do the buds form from the
start on a raceme, or is there a sheath formed from which the buds emerge after
several weeks?
Dave Gillingham
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To email me remove the .private from my email address.
  #12   Report Post  
Old 16-12-2005, 06:07 PM posted to rec.gardens.orchids
keith ;-\)
 
Posts: n/a
Default Advice, please: D. laevifolium


"Dave Gillingham" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 21:06:56 GMT, "keith ;-\)"

wrote:


"Dave Gillingham" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 20:56:22 GMT, "keith ;-\)"
wrote:
[big snip]

Dave,did you find out what the dendrobium is ref den chrysotoxum or is

it?
Thanks Keith


Keith, thanks for the interest. One of the members of our society, who

is
involved with orchids in the herbarium & has a special interest in the
Dendrobes, suggested D. gibsonii. That's from Section Dendrobium,

which
surprises me a little having read up on it after last Tuesday's

meeting.
My
plant's inflorescence started life in a sheath some 50 mm (2 inches) or

more
long. In my admittedly very limited experience, plants from that

section
all
form individual buds rather than the inflorescence bursting from a

sheath.
But
I did mention the sheath to him, & his knowledge is certainly far

superior
to
mine.
Dave Gillingham


-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-
----
To email me remove the .private from my email address.

Hi Dave, have you seen my post to you on ABPO?
I suggested it looked like den fimbriatum var oculatum?
Thanks Keith

Keith, same reservation since it also is from Section Dendrobium - how

does the
inflorescence on fimbriatum var occulatum initiate? Do the buds form from

the
start on a raceme, or is there a sheath formed from which the buds emerge

after
several weeks?
Dave Gillingham
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----
To email me remove the .private from my email address.


Dave,Im not totally sure,mine at the moment has 1/4 inch nodes which I
assume the buds will emerge to form the inflorescence.
Cheers Keith


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