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#16
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100+ F
I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH.
I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips you can find swamp coolers at Home depot or Lowes or google them online once you've seen what they look like at Charley's. I just went with Charley's because I knew I could get one there and didn't want to search. My friend got one at Home depot 3-4 weeks later for half the price. You will have to develop your shopping skills. If they have Graingers in your area they are a resource for thermostats etc, too. Usually at a cheaper price. graingers.com (I think) |
#17
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100+ F
"Bob Walsh" wrote in message . .. How about using a water metering device made for watering lawns. Set it for enough water (in gallons) to handle expected needs in the greenhouse plus 10 or 20 percent. Some of these are battery operated and would reset each day. This would go on the spigot before the hose. I think misters need constant water. The swamp-coolers may not. The SC would take up a lot of space in the Rion. I'll check out Lowe's and Home Depot and see if I can find one of these meters. What I really need is something to cut the water off if the hose splits. Sams club carries a 120 or 125' hose that we have left on for months with no problems. Our water pressure runs 50 to 70 pounds per inch. The hose is priced in the mid 20 dollar range. We can't leave the pressure on them here as they split. We've had it happened at least 5 times since we're living here. The last time was this spring. It was an expensive 50' hose from Lowe's. We just forgot to turn the pressure off when we went in for dinner. Several hours later I heard the sound of water running in the pipes when the TV was shut off............ another large water bill. Bob "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Eric Hunt" wrote in message ... Hi, This is a problem that's been solved many times over - swamp coolers and other devices can be used in hobby greenhouses to get the temps under 100. But where do you get a swamp cooler? Are these home made? What do they cost? I'm also under the impression you need a constant water supply to the GH for a SC. Because of the limestone just under the surface it's cost in prohibitive. The GHs are not near the waterline. Leaving the water turned on using a hose on the surface isn't an option. We've ended up with huge water bills several times over the years when the hose split and no one saw it for hours - or we weren't home. Who out there has a greenhouse where the days regularly top 100? What do you do? Do you just tailor your collection to grow plants you know can take that level of heat? Do you have a misting system that keeps the humidity really high? Plants can take the heat better with more water in the air. Misting requires a constant water supply. Sorry I can't be of much direct help - San Francisco is the natural cloud forest of America, even in summer. Good luck! The uncontrollable heat was the reason I took all the plants out of the GH this spring. We though the shade-cloths and fans alone would keep the GHs at least the same temp as it was outside, boy were we ever wrong. -Eric in SF www.orchidphotos.org www.plantworld.org |
#18
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100+ F
"K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips you can find swamp coolers at Home depot or Lowes or google them online once you've seen what they look like at Charley's. I just went with Charley's because I knew I could get one there and didn't want to search. My friend got one at Home depot 3-4 weeks later for half the price. You will have to develop your shopping skills. If they have Graingers in your area they are a resource for thermostats etc, too. Usually at a cheaper price. graingers.com (I think) I'm going to check that site out. I did order some bubblewrap insulation and clips from Charleys. They came already. Will check out the coolers now. I have to go to Lowe's this week anyway and will see if they carry SCs. What do people that don't have GHs use these swamp coolers for? |
#19
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100+ F
"K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips OK. I checked them out. The air here is not dry but quite humid from spring to fall. It's only dry in the winter but the plants still thrived even with the 20 to 30% humidity. Wetting the gravel in winter with the hose would bring it up to maybe 40 or 45% for a few hours - when the hose wasn't frozen. Then I'd use a 1g spray bottle. These swamp coolers wouldn't help much as they only drop the temps down 5 to 10F for the affordable one. That's not much when you're dealing with 120/130+ all summer long. Also, I don't know how many sq. feet the Rion is because of the roof shape. The larger SC is $590 and needs a constant water supply. Blasting the limestone to run a line is cost prohibitive as is this cooler. We've already spent a lot more than we figured on on the Rion GH, what with all the gravel, cement, rebar, bubblewrap, shade-cloth, fans, heaters, extra weather stripping etc. etc... etc... ad infinitum................ |
#20
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100+ F
Yeah....somehow you never know how much a greenhouse would cost until you
build one! As a point of reference....in the DC area yesterday it was about as humid as it can get and the air temp was 100F. The min/max thermometer in my greenhouse was 86.7 degrees as a high. That is about the hottest the GH has been all summer and we have had a couple of days in the high 90s. I have 50% shade cloth on it right now and use tap water in the Swamp Cooler. Tap water is very warm this time of year so the cool is mostly coming from the air movement and the evaporation. Good growing, Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips OK. I checked them out. The air here is not dry but quite humid from spring to fall. It's only dry in the winter but the plants still thrived even with the 20 to 30% humidity. Wetting the gravel in winter with the hose would bring it up to maybe 40 or 45% for a few hours - when the hose wasn't frozen. Then I'd use a 1g spray bottle. These swamp coolers wouldn't help much as they only drop the temps down 5 to 10F for the affordable one. That's not much when you're dealing with 120/130+ all summer long. Also, I don't know how many sq. feet the Rion is because of the roof shape. The larger SC is $590 and needs a constant water supply. Blasting the limestone to run a line is cost prohibitive as is this cooler. We've already spent a lot more than we figured on on the Rion GH, what with all the gravel, cement, rebar, bubblewrap, shade-cloth, fans, heaters, extra weather stripping etc. etc... etc... ad infinitum................ |
#21
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100+ F
"Gene Schurg" wrote in message news:R8gAi.4157$yv3.34@trndny01... Yeah....somehow you never know how much a greenhouse would cost until you build one! As a point of reference....in the DC area yesterday it was about as humid as it can get and the air temp was 100F. The min/max thermometer in my greenhouse was 86.7 degrees as a high. That is about the hottest the GH has been all summer and we have had a couple of days in the high 90s. I have 50% shade cloth on it right now and use tap water in the Swamp Cooler. Tap water is very warm this time of year so the cool is mostly coming from the air movement and the evaporation. Can you tell me approximately how many gallons of water a day your SC uses? Good growing, Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips OK. I checked them out. The air here is not dry but quite humid from spring to fall. It's only dry in the winter but the plants still thrived even with the 20 to 30% humidity. Wetting the gravel in winter with the hose would bring it up to maybe 40 or 45% for a few hours - when the hose wasn't frozen. Then I'd use a 1g spray bottle. These swamp coolers wouldn't help much as they only drop the temps down 5 to 10F for the affordable one. That's not much when you're dealing with 120/130+ all summer long. Also, I don't know how many sq. feet the Rion is because of the roof shape. The larger SC is $590 and needs a constant water supply. Blasting the limestone to run a line is cost prohibitive as is this cooler. We've already spent a lot more than we figured on on the Rion GH, what with all the gravel, cement, rebar, bubblewrap, shade-cloth, fans, heaters, extra weather stripping etc. etc... etc... ad infinitum................ |
#22
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100+ F
I bought a portable Bonaire about three years ago for my third g/h!!! It
worked quite well, has a 3 gal tank so you would have to fill it every day. You will have to do some research on where to purchase near you. I got mine at HomeDepot in S.Cal. & was close to $300 http://www.bonaire.com.au/products/products4.html Just a thought, have you checked with your greenhouse company. Good Luck Cheers Wendy "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Gene Schurg" wrote in message news:R8gAi.4157$yv3.34@trndny01... Yeah....somehow you never know how much a greenhouse would cost until you build one! As a point of reference....in the DC area yesterday it was about as humid as it can get and the air temp was 100F. The min/max thermometer in my greenhouse was 86.7 degrees as a high. That is about the hottest the GH has been all summer and we have had a couple of days in the high 90s. I have 50% shade cloth on it right now and use tap water in the Swamp Cooler. Tap water is very warm this time of year so the cool is mostly coming from the air movement and the evaporation. Can you tell me approximately how many gallons of water a day your SC uses? Good growing, Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips OK. I checked them out. The air here is not dry but quite humid from spring to fall. It's only dry in the winter but the plants still thrived even with the 20 to 30% humidity. Wetting the gravel in winter with the hose would bring it up to maybe 40 or 45% for a few hours - when the hose wasn't frozen. Then I'd use a 1g spray bottle. These swamp coolers wouldn't help much as they only drop the temps down 5 to 10F for the affordable one. That's not much when you're dealing with 120/130+ all summer long. Also, I don't know how many sq. feet the Rion is because of the roof shape. The larger SC is $590 and needs a constant water supply. Blasting the limestone to run a line is cost prohibitive as is this cooler. We've already spent a lot more than we figured on on the Rion GH, what with all the gravel, cement, rebar, bubblewrap, shade-cloth, fans, heaters, extra weather stripping etc. etc... etc... ad infinitum................ |
#23
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100+ F
"Wendy7" wrote in message ... I bought a portable Bonaire about three years ago for my third g/h!!! It worked quite well, has a 3 gal tank so you would have to fill it every day. You will have to do some research on where to purchase near you. I got mine at HomeDepot in S.Cal. & was close to $300 http://www.bonaire.com.au/products/products4.html Just a thought, have you checked with your greenhouse company. Good Luck Cheers Wendy No. They just sell GHs. Plenty of other places carry supplies like swamp coolers or some type of A/C we cannot afford as retired people. We hadn't planned to go over $3000 and passed that a few months ago. I still need another large roll of bubble wrap insulation and more clear tape. It's been one thing after another since we built it last spring. Don't get me wrong, I love the GHs but this larger one entailed a lot more expenses than the small $300 Harbor Freight GH. More than we planned to spend and still there is no end in sight. Coming up with another $300 or $500 for coolers or A/C is out of the question. |
#24
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100+ F
I have no way of telling how much water my swamp cooler actually uses. When
it runs it pumps the water back over the aspen wood pads. It pumps a small amount of water out into the drain so there isn't a mineral buildup. When I started the Greenhouse 5 years ago I did not see a big increase in the waterbill. I don't think the water usage is much. Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Gene Schurg" wrote in message news:R8gAi.4157$yv3.34@trndny01... Yeah....somehow you never know how much a greenhouse would cost until you build one! As a point of reference....in the DC area yesterday it was about as humid as it can get and the air temp was 100F. The min/max thermometer in my greenhouse was 86.7 degrees as a high. That is about the hottest the GH has been all summer and we have had a couple of days in the high 90s. I have 50% shade cloth on it right now and use tap water in the Swamp Cooler. Tap water is very warm this time of year so the cool is mostly coming from the air movement and the evaporation. Can you tell me approximately how many gallons of water a day your SC uses? Good growing, Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips OK. I checked them out. The air here is not dry but quite humid from spring to fall. It's only dry in the winter but the plants still thrived even with the 20 to 30% humidity. Wetting the gravel in winter with the hose would bring it up to maybe 40 or 45% for a few hours - when the hose wasn't frozen. Then I'd use a 1g spray bottle. These swamp coolers wouldn't help much as they only drop the temps down 5 to 10F for the affordable one. That's not much when you're dealing with 120/130+ all summer long. Also, I don't know how many sq. feet the Rion is because of the roof shape. The larger SC is $590 and needs a constant water supply. Blasting the limestone to run a line is cost prohibitive as is this cooler. We've already spent a lot more than we figured on on the Rion GH, what with all the gravel, cement, rebar, bubblewrap, shade-cloth, fans, heaters, extra weather stripping etc. etc... etc... ad infinitum................ |
#25
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100+ F
The splitting would be the reason for the metering device.
You could set it for 'X' number of gallons. If it split you would lose 'X' number of gallons and it would shut off. Another option might be getting 'sprinkler' system pipe. Either 3/4 or 1''. It is made for constant pressure in ground .You would need to check about using it above ground. Fittings are available to connect it to your outside spigot as are 'u' shaped wires to hold it down. Bob "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Bob Walsh" wrote in message . .. How about using a water metering device made for watering lawns. Set it for enough water (in gallons) to handle expected needs in the greenhouse plus 10 or 20 percent. Some of these are battery operated and would reset each day. This would go on the spigot before the hose. I think misters need constant water. The swamp-coolers may not. The SC would take up a lot of space in the Rion. I'll check out Lowe's and Home Depot and see if I can find one of these meters. What I really need is something to cut the water off if the hose splits. Sams club carries a 120 or 125' hose that we have left on for months with no problems. Our water pressure runs 50 to 70 pounds per inch. The hose is priced in the mid 20 dollar range. We can't leave the pressure on them here as they split. We've had it happened at least 5 times since we're living here. The last time was this spring. It was an expensive 50' hose from Lowe's. We just forgot to turn the pressure off when we went in for dinner. Several hours later I heard the sound of water running in the pipes when the TV was shut off............ another large water bill. Bob "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Eric Hunt" wrote in message ... Hi, This is a problem that's been solved many times over - swamp coolers and other devices can be used in hobby greenhouses to get the temps under 100. But where do you get a swamp cooler? Are these home made? What do they cost? I'm also under the impression you need a constant water supply to the GH for a SC. Because of the limestone just under the surface it's cost in prohibitive. The GHs are not near the waterline. Leaving the water turned on using a hose on the surface isn't an option. We've ended up with huge water bills several times over the years when the hose split and no one saw it for hours - or we weren't home. Who out there has a greenhouse where the days regularly top 100? What do you do? Do you just tailor your collection to grow plants you know can take that level of heat? Do you have a misting system that keeps the humidity really high? Plants can take the heat better with more water in the air. Misting requires a constant water supply. Sorry I can't be of much direct help - San Francisco is the natural cloud forest of America, even in summer. Good luck! The uncontrollable heat was the reason I took all the plants out of the GH this spring. We though the shade-cloths and fans alone would keep the GHs at least the same temp as it was outside, boy were we ever wrong. -Eric in SF www.orchidphotos.org www.plantworld.org |
#26
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100+ F
How far 'under the surface ' is the rock?
Bob "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Gene Schurg" wrote in message news:XQJzi.23$Ah3.18@trndny04... Watering a large collection is why I finally built a greenhouse. I used to spend 5 hours a weekend watering plants from a dishpan (and watching football in the fall). Could you use shade cloth to make a closed greenhouse that would keep the grasshoppers out but still allow you to water with a hose? Both are covered with shade cloths. There are fans. Without shade cloths they can reach 130+ F. The summers here are in the 90s and this summer has been over 100F in the daytime for weeks now. The shade cloth would help to cut on the sun as well but may raise the heat since it would trap some heat. Could you carry the collection outdoors and water with a hose and then carry back into the house? There are too many to make that practical twice a week. In the summer I always kept them outside and hosed them, then dipped once a month in a dishpan when they were fertilized. I did the pan number in the winter also. I was just wondering how others watered a nice size collection when kept in a house or sunroom. I had hoped to make good use of the GHs year round but never dreamed they'd be so hot witn open doors, vents, fans and shade-cloths. I looked into misting coolers but we can't get water to the GHs because of the rock just under the surface. Leaving pressure on a hose 24/7 is out of the question. If you could "find" some bread trays like they use at McD's for hamburger rolls you could move more plants at a time in and out. If you are growing under lights and have a drain nearby could you rig up some trays that would drain into the drain? I used to get some great trays for that purpose from the companies that make plant carts. With some basic plumbing parts and garden hose you could rig up the trays to drain the excess water away from the plants. That's not possible in our sun-room. I guess I'm stuck with the "traveling dishpan." :-)) Good Growing, Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... It's been at or over 100 F for the past 3 weeks now. The severe drought continues, forcing the grasshoppers to go for anything watered. Today I started to bring my orchids back inside. I think the heat is getting to them also as they're getting a lighter green. How do you guys water your indoor orchids? I've been using a dishpan to set them in 2 at a time but as the collection grows that takes a long time. I can't use a watering can as the water runs right through the orchid mix. |
#27
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100+ F
one of my units (I have two swamp coolers) has an 6x5 foot pad that is 8
inches thick and a water reservoir that holds about 15 gallons. If the water intake valve is shut off, this reservoir will go dry within the day. This tells me that in a 24 hour period I use at at least 15 gallons of water times 2. This does not include the bleed off tubes and the miscellaneous drips and spills which dumps out of the system who knows how much water per day so I don't get crusty buildup. "Gene Schurg" wrote in message newsTpAi.30236$Bv1.3801@trnddc06... I have no way of telling how much water my swamp cooler actually uses. When it runs it pumps the water back over the aspen wood pads. It pumps a small amount of water out into the drain so there isn't a mineral buildup. When I started the Greenhouse 5 years ago I did not see a big increase in the waterbill. I don't think the water usage is much. Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "Gene Schurg" wrote in message news:R8gAi.4157$yv3.34@trndny01... Yeah....somehow you never know how much a greenhouse would cost until you build one! As a point of reference....in the DC area yesterday it was about as humid as it can get and the air temp was 100F. The min/max thermometer in my greenhouse was 86.7 degrees as a high. That is about the hottest the GH has been all summer and we have had a couple of days in the high 90s. I have 50% shade cloth on it right now and use tap water in the Swamp Cooler. Tap water is very warm this time of year so the cool is mostly coming from the air movement and the evaporation. Can you tell me approximately how many gallons of water a day your SC uses? Good growing, Gene "Manelli Family" wrote in message ... "K Barrett" wrote in message news I used a lot of the advice from Charley's greenhouse when I built my GH. I've provided a link to their tips page. I used their formulas to calculate how large a swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) I'd need as well as how large a heater. My GH was 8x16 and I put Charley's swamp cooler in it which was over kill, but when I expanded the GH to 8 x 30 I didn't have to get a larger cooler. It still works fine. http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_tips OK. I checked them out. The air here is not dry but quite humid from spring to fall. It's only dry in the winter but the plants still thrived even with the 20 to 30% humidity. Wetting the gravel in winter with the hose would bring it up to maybe 40 or 45% for a few hours - when the hose wasn't frozen. Then I'd use a 1g spray bottle. These swamp coolers wouldn't help much as they only drop the temps down 5 to 10F for the affordable one. That's not much when you're dealing with 120/130+ all summer long. Also, I don't know how many sq. feet the Rion is because of the roof shape. The larger SC is $590 and needs a constant water supply. Blasting the limestone to run a line is cost prohibitive as is this cooler. We've already spent a lot more than we figured on on the Rion GH, what with all the gravel, cement, rebar, bubblewrap, shade-cloth, fans, heaters, extra weather stripping etc. etc... etc... ad infinitum................ |
#28
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100+ F
"Bob Walsh" wrote in message . .. The splitting would be the reason for the metering device. You could set it for 'X' number of gallons. If it split you would lose 'X' number of gallons and it would shut off. I was to Lowe's today to pick up narrow bubble wrap and some clear tape to seal it..... the guy working there said they don't sell these meters. I drove across the Hwy. to Home Depot. No meters there either; that man said they don't carry water meters of any kind. Maybe their larger stores in the city may have them. I'll be going into the big city in a week or two. BTW, the HD out here doesn't sell orchids anymore. :*( Another option might be getting 'sprinkler' system pipe. Either 3/4 or 1''. It is made for constant pressure in ground .You would need to check about using it above ground. Fittings are available to connect it to your outside spigot as are 'u' shaped wires to hold it down. I can look into these also.... and hope they're easy to move when it's mowed back there. If it weren't for the rock at the surface in most places we could have run a waterline to the GHs. We were lucky with the electric's which were closer... only had to go around one huge rock. Nothing can be left over the ground in winter when humidity is so low and it's needed most, or it freezes. Also there's the cold water factor in winter using a hose to water the plants. I carried water from the house all last winter. It was getting old having to go up and down the deck stairs with the watering cans. I think this winter I'm going to have a large trashcan full of water in the larger green house itself, filled using the hose and warmed by the sun. But that doesn't cure the high temps inside my GHs in the summer......... since I live out in the country and have plenty of space the plants may just spend their summers outside. |
#29
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100+ F
"Gene Schurg" wrote in message newsTpAi.30236$Bv1.3801@trnddc06... I have no way of telling how much water my swamp cooler actually uses. When it runs it pumps the water back over the aspen wood pads. It pumps a small amount of water out into the drain so there isn't a mineral buildup. When I started the Greenhouse 5 years ago I did not see a big increase in the waterbill. I don't think the water usage is much. Thanks Gene. I've been doing some research online and read that they're not very effective in humid climates. It's very humid where I live. Think of a tropical jungle. The humidity drops off when the heat starts to drop, around the middle of Sept. The plants have to come in before the middle of Oct. which is our first frost date here. Is your climate also humid? |
#30
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100+ F
"Al" wrote in message news:y%FAi.3596$ku.3125@trnddc03... one of my units (I have two swamp coolers) has an 6x5 foot pad that is 8 inches thick and a water reservoir that holds about 15 gallons. If the water intake valve is shut off, this reservoir will go dry within the day. This tells me that in a 24 hour period I use at at least 15 gallons of water times 2. This does not include the bleed off tubes and the miscellaneous drips and spills which dumps out of the system who knows how much water per day so I don't get crusty buildup. I would think since it uses evaporative cooling it would have to go through some water to be effective. And with fans running that coolness would be sucked out as fast as the swamp cooler cools it. |
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