I'm new at this. I've got ten orchids that were given to me by an
elderly gentleman, and one ( an onc. ) is turning brown at the base, one
part at a time. I don't want to lose any of these plants.
I THINK it is crown rot. I get it in my daylillies, and treat it with
Spectracide.
Can I use this product on orchids? If not, what can I use?

west, who, after seeing his own first bloom set, is
completely, totally hooked.

Hi, West,

I like Captan for the prevention and treatment of crown rot. Some folks
will tell you to use Ortho (wettable powder); however, I have never
found this in my vicinity, and there is Enstar that you have to buy by
bulk. So, since Captan is not so difficult to find and use, I have
resorted to it.

.. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System
http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html

---------------------------------------
west wrote:

I'm new at this. I've got ten orchids that were given to me by an
elderly gentleman, and one ( an onc. ) is turning brown at the base, one
part at a time. I don't want to lose any of these plants.
I THINK it is crown rot. I get it in my daylillies, and treat it with
Spectracide.
Can I use this product on orchids? If not, what can I use?

west, who, after seeing his own first bloom set, is
completely, totally hooked.

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Pam,

If by "Ortho (wettable powder)" you mean Orthene WP, then I have to ask what
you're recommending. Orthene is an insecticide, not a fungicide or
bactericide, and Enstar II is an insect growth regulator - neither of which
will do a thing for rot.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"profpam" wrote in message ...
Hi, West,

I like Captan for the prevention and treatment of crown rot. Some folks
will tell you to use Ortho (wettable powder); however, I have never
found this in my vicinity, and there is Enstar that you have to buy by
bulk. So, since Captan is not so difficult to find and use, I have
resorted to it.

. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System
http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html

---------------------------------------
west wrote:

I'm new at this. I've got ten orchids that were given to me by an
elderly gentleman, and one ( an onc. ) is turning brown at the base, one
part at a time. I don't want to lose any of these plants.
I THINK it is crown rot. I get it in my daylillies, and treat it with
Spectracide.
Can I use this product on orchids? If not, what can I use?

west, who, after seeing his own first bloom set, is
completely, totally hooked.

Turning brown at the base, one part at a time.

Hmmm. Do you mean the bulbs at the bottom or rear of the plant are turning
brown? Those would be the oldest ones, furthest away from the growing
portion of the plant.

Usually crown rot is from the top of a bulb or stem and spreds to the bottom
.. And the bulb would get mushy. Like a rotted potato.

Sometimes when a bulb (pseudobulb to use the correct term) loses its roots
the pseudobulbs will wither and die. Mostly the oldest pseudobulbs do that.

So is it the back bulbs turning brown?

K Barrett

"west" wrote in message
...
I'm new at this. I've got ten orchids that were given to me by an
elderly gentleman, and one ( an onc. ) is turning brown at the base, one
part at a time. I don't want to lose any of these plants.
I THINK it is crown rot. I get it in my daylillies, and treat it with
Spectracide.
Can I use this product on orchids? If not, what can I use?

west, who, after seeing his own first bloom set, is
completely, totally hooked.

K Barrett wrote:

Turning brown at the base, one part at a time.

Hmmm. Do you mean the bulbs at the bottom or rear of the plant are turning
brown? Those would be the oldest ones, furthest away from the growing
portion of the plant.

Usually crown rot is from the top of a bulb or stem and spreds to the bottom
. And the bulb would get mushy. Like a rotted potato.

Sometimes when a bulb (pseudobulb to use the correct term) loses its roots
the pseudobulbs will wither and die. Mostly the oldest pseudobulbs do that.

So is it the back bulbs turning brown?

K Barrett


It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon, I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west

K Barrett wrote:

Turning brown at the base, one part at a time.

Hmmm. Do you mean the bulbs at the bottom or rear of the plant are turning
brown? Those would be the oldest ones, furthest away from the growing
portion of the plant.

Usually crown rot is from the top of a bulb or stem and spreds to the bottom
. And the bulb would get mushy. Like a rotted potato.

Sometimes when a bulb (pseudobulb to use the correct term) loses its roots
the pseudobulbs will wither and die. Mostly the oldest pseudobulbs do that.

So is it the back bulbs turning brown?

K Barrett


It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon, I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west

K Barrett wrote:

Turning brown at the base, one part at a time.

Hmmm. Do you mean the bulbs at the bottom or rear of the plant are turning
brown? Those would be the oldest ones, furthest away from the growing
portion of the plant.

Usually crown rot is from the top of a bulb or stem and spreds to the bottom
. And the bulb would get mushy. Like a rotted potato.

Sometimes when a bulb (pseudobulb to use the correct term) loses its roots
the pseudobulbs will wither and die. Mostly the oldest pseudobulbs do that.

So is it the back bulbs turning brown?

K Barrett


It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon, I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west

Yeah, some sort of rot. Best you can do is to cut the rhizome before the rot
spreds to the other pseudobulbs. Oncidiums can tolerate not having many back
bulbs. So if you can, cut the front 2-3 bulbs away from the infected portion
and toss the infected portion out. Heck, even if you end up with only one
healthy bulb its better than nothing. It may get set back by such heavy
surgery, but still its better than losing the plant. Oncidiums are
relatively tolerant as far as orchids go.

Make sure you repot in fresh medium. Medium should be chosen in proportion
to the size of the roots. Oncidiums have fine roots, so a fine bark should
be used. Use a new or clean pot so pathogens aren't transmitted from the old
pot. The size of the pot should just hold whatever good roots remain, even
if this makes the plant sort of top heavy. If it is top heavy after
repotting you can then slip the plant and its pot into a second larger
heavier pot (like a clay one) so it doesn't tip over. and so you don't
jostle it as it makes new roots and grows.

Whatever pseudobulbs you have left should be firmed up in the pot so the
plant doesn't move in the pot. You should be able to lift the pot by the
plant, it should be that firm in the medium and pot.

K Barrett

"west" wrote in message
...

It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon, I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west

Yeah, some sort of rot. Best you can do is to cut the rhizome before the rot
spreds to the other pseudobulbs. Oncidiums can tolerate not having many back
bulbs. So if you can, cut the front 2-3 bulbs away from the infected portion
and toss the infected portion out. Heck, even if you end up with only one
healthy bulb its better than nothing. It may get set back by such heavy
surgery, but still its better than losing the plant. Oncidiums are
relatively tolerant as far as orchids go.

Make sure you repot in fresh medium. Medium should be chosen in proportion
to the size of the roots. Oncidiums have fine roots, so a fine bark should
be used. Use a new or clean pot so pathogens aren't transmitted from the old
pot. The size of the pot should just hold whatever good roots remain, even
if this makes the plant sort of top heavy. If it is top heavy after
repotting you can then slip the plant and its pot into a second larger
heavier pot (like a clay one) so it doesn't tip over. and so you don't
jostle it as it makes new roots and grows.

Whatever pseudobulbs you have left should be firmed up in the pot so the
plant doesn't move in the pot. You should be able to lift the pot by the
plant, it should be that firm in the medium and pot.

K Barrett

"west" wrote in message
...

It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon, I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west

That's happened to me a few times. Could be overwatering, bacteria, or
fungus (that's what started mine). Don't forget to treat the plant before
you repot. A good dousing with peroxide, roots and all, and a dusting of
cinnamon works wonders.

Diana

"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:dBW%a.173640$Ho3.22673@sccrnsc03...
Yeah, some sort of rot. Best you can do is to cut the rhizome before the
rot
spreds to the other pseudobulbs. Oncidiums can tolerate not having many
back
bulbs. So if you can, cut the front 2-3 bulbs away from the infected
portion
and toss the infected portion out. Heck, even if you end up with only one
healthy bulb its better than nothing. It may get set back by such heavy
surgery, but still its better than losing the plant. Oncidiums are
relatively tolerant as far as orchids go.

Make sure you repot in fresh medium. Medium should be chosen in proportion
to the size of the roots. Oncidiums have fine roots, so a fine bark should
be used. Use a new or clean pot so pathogens aren't transmitted from the
old
pot. The size of the pot should just hold whatever good roots remain, even
if this makes the plant sort of top heavy. If it is top heavy after
repotting you can then slip the plant and its pot into a second larger
heavier pot (like a clay one) so it doesn't tip over. and so you don't
jostle it as it makes new roots and grows.

Whatever pseudobulbs you have left should be firmed up in the pot so the
plant doesn't move in the pot. You should be able to lift the pot by the
plant, it should be that firm in the medium and pot.

K Barrett

"west" wrote in message
...

It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon, I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west

Cutting away infected parts and soaking in GreenShield or Physan or RD20 has
always givien me results. Dust cut end with sulfur or cinnamon and repot.
Gary

"west" wrote in message
...
I'm new at this. I've got ten orchids that were given to me by an
elderly gentleman, and one ( an onc. ) is turning brown at the base, one
part at a time. I don't want to lose any of these plants.
I THINK it is crown rot. I get it in my daylillies, and treat it with
Spectracide.
Can I use this product on orchids? If not, what can I use?

west, who, after seeing his own first bloom set, is
completely, totally hooked.

Sphagnum is god to mix in with the bark. it is antiseptic helps to keep the
injured orchide from geting attackt when it is down for the count.
Mattias
"Diana Kulaga" skrev i meddelandet
.net...
That's happened to me a few times. Could be overwatering, bacteria, or
fungus (that's what started mine). Don't forget to treat the plant before
you repot. A good dousing with peroxide, roots and all, and a dusting of
cinnamon works wonders.

Diana

"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:dBW%a.173640$Ho3.22673@sccrnsc03...
Yeah, some sort of rot. Best you can do is to cut the rhizome before the
rot
spreds to the other pseudobulbs. Oncidiums can tolerate not having many
back
bulbs. So if you can, cut the front 2-3 bulbs away from the infected
portion
and toss the infected portion out. Heck, even if you end up with only
one
healthy bulb its better than nothing. It may get set back by such heavy
surgery, but still its better than losing the plant. Oncidiums are
relatively tolerant as far as orchids go.

Make sure you repot in fresh medium. Medium should be chosen in
proportion
to the size of the roots. Oncidiums have fine roots, so a fine bark
should
be used. Use a new or clean pot so pathogens aren't transmitted from the
old
pot. The size of the pot should just hold whatever good roots remain,
even
if this makes the plant sort of top heavy. If it is top heavy after
repotting you can then slip the plant and its pot into a second larger
heavier pot (like a clay one) so it doesn't tip over. and so you don't
jostle it as it makes new roots and grows.

Whatever pseudobulbs you have left should be firmed up in the pot so the
plant doesn't move in the pot. You should be able to lift the pot by the
plant, it should be that firm in the medium and pot.

K Barrett

"west" wrote in message
...

It's sort of a tan brown. Starts at the base, gets about half way up
the bulb, and the bulb just falls off. New growth next to it goes
next,
in the same manner. The brown area smells just like a rotten Bearded
Iris root. Rancid. Mushy. I know if I don't get control of it soon,
I'll
lose the other five bulbs.

west