It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

Bob Wellenstein (AnTec Labs) recommends using it at 1 teaspoon per gallon,
and adds that amount of Epsom Salts as well.

Epsom Salts are available at any drug store or Wal-Mart, but Todd Zimmerman
(TZ to most of us) contacted me about carrying calcium nitrate, as it's not
that easy to obtain in small quantities. Following up on his suggestion, I
just added 1-pound bags to my list, in addition to the liquid versions of
the MSU fertilizers I added a few days ago.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
..

Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a "Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We use a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress and aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring (March in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE

Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a "Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring (March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE

Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a "Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring (March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE

What is FWIW?

"K Barrett" wrote in message news:KEmYc.64939$9d6.20844@attbi_s54...
Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a "Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring (March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE

What is FWIW?

"K Barrett" wrote in message news:KEmYc.64939$9d6.20844@attbi_s54...
Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a "Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring (March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE

FWIW = For What It's Worth

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
..
"orchids3" wrote in message
om...
What is FWIW?

"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:KEmYc.64939$9d6.20844@attbi_s54...
Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants
that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and
when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something
I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight
tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've
been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from
the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower
they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water
when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a
"Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We
use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with
regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress
and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring
(March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only
1-800-351-CITE

FWIW = For What It's Worth

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
..
"orchids3" wrote in message
om...
What is FWIW?

"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:KEmYc.64939$9d6.20844@attbi_s54...
Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants
that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and
when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something
I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight
tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've
been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from
the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower
they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water
when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a
"Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We
use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with
regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress
and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring
(March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only
1-800-351-CITE

(orchids3) wrote in message . com...
What is FWIW?


For What It's Worth.



J. Del Col

Hi Group,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

In my Humble Opinion (IMHO) you might look to a potassium (K) deficiency,
particularly if you are a very lite fertilizer person. As I understand it, K
deficiency can be caused by use of high Nitrogen fertilizers, which tend to
exclude K. A lot of N will make soft growth, and the softness would extend to
the flower stem. Another possible scenario is use of a bloom booster (high
Phosphorus (P)), with a low K ratio. The additional flowers, produced by the
high P, do not have the strength because of a lack of potassium. Remember why
we eat bananas is for the Potassium to combine with the calcium to strengthen
our bones, or at least that's what my mommy said. Same with plants, IMHO, but
we are far from chemical experts. Our preferred general fertilizer is 20-10-20
non-urea, with Calcium Nitrate at the new growth cycle, and Epsom Salts.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change.

Going to have to pass on this one. Many commercial growers will shade the
catts. to extend slightly the blooming period and keep the flowers from fading
in the brighter light. We are more species growers, than hybrids, so knowing
that the species in the wild, do not get moved when they come into flower, we
don't either. They are in fairly bright light year around, we are in SW FL, and
except for the occassional Hurricane, most of the year is fairly bright.
Foliage color is always lime green and flowering is good.
Sorry could not help more, but hope this helps some.

Jerry and Karen

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.) http://www.clanorchids.com
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE

1) Calcium ions cross-link the pectate/pectin molecules in cell walls,
thus stiffening them. Calcium deficiency results in weaker tissue
because of this (think soft over-ripe apple vs hard green apple). It
shows up at young tissue and can cause bud blast, cell collapse/death
at leaf tip etc.

2) Auxin (hormone) causes a change in pH that affects the calcium ions
unlinking them from the pectate chains. This makes the cell walls
softer so that the cells can grow/elongate more easily. Auxin is
progressively deactivated by light so with low light you get longer
weaker plant parts (leaves, stems, whatever). Uneven auxin
deactivation by light is responsible for your spikes turning toward
the window too.


3) Water availablility drives the cell expansion/elongation of the
individual cells. Low humidity/high water loss usually goes with high
light so you can get stunting even when there is plenty of water at
the roots.


Those are the primary interacting factors.


My spikes sometimes/often flop over when sunny weather is followed by
a couple of days of rain, especially if I have just fertilized. The
growth rate out paces the (reduced)calcium cross linking-stiffening
process even when the plant has enough calcium in it. Without the
sunny days preceding the rainy days the plant would not have the
energy for that high rate of growth. You can stake the spike easily
when it is floppy and it will eventually harden (you can also break it
off easily). That alternating weather pattern is great for leaf growth
but I cringe if a spike is forming.

The nitrate in calcium nitrate can give a short burst of soft growth
too. I accidentally-easily snapped offa maturing Cattleya bowringiana
pbulb a couple of days after applying calcium nitrate. Again, it was
after a couple of rainy days, and the plant had been growing in low
light.


hope this helps







"K Barrett" wrote in message news:KEmYc.64939$9d6.20844@attbi_s54...
Jerry,

Any idea what gives strength to catt flower stems? I've had nothing but
trouble getting them to emerge from the sheath and grow tall. Plants that
displayed well from the vendor now barely make it out of sheath, and when
they do immediately bend over an point to the ground. So its something I'm
not doing right. This year only my blues are producing nice stems (Sir
Jeremiah Coleman and Blue Boy) Everything else didn't.

I used to think it might be water pH. Before this year I used straight tap
water (8.5 - 9.0 pH) and infrequently fertilized. But this year I've been
very good about fertilizing and they are still weak.

Someone mentioned maybe too much light, so the stems don't emerge from the
sheath. Someone mentioned that commercially when catts begin to flower they
move them to a flowering table where light conditions change

So I'm puzzled. Any input from others?

K Barrett
"Clanorchid" wrote in message
...
Dear Group;

It seems that by adding calcium nitrate to your final rinse water when
cleaning CHC (or any coir product, for that matter), the ion-exchange
strips
the NaCl from the CHC much more thoroughly than does clear water.

FWIW, also gives leaf strength to Cats. and Phals. when used as a "Spring
Tonic", just as the orchids are going into their new growth cycle. We use
a
tsp. per gal spray, three times in the spring alternating with regular
fertilizing. Pretty much eliminates "black mush rot" in emerging Cat
psuedobulbs and Phal leaves.

Epsom Salts, in our experience, helps the plants deal with heat stress and
aids
in photosynthesis. Teaspoon per gallon spray, once a month. Spring (March
in SW
FL) to Fall (Late November in FL).

Jerry

Camp Lot A Noise Tropicals (C. L. A. N.)
Orchid Species, Hybrids, Supplies, Photos and Books
Chat (941) 352-2483 Fax: (941) 351-2483 X 123 Order Only 1-800-351-CITE