K Barrett wrote:

Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in day/night
temps in order to flower.



Many phalaenopsis and most Maudiae type paphs will bloom without a
day/night differential. That's a start. I would agree that they
probably bloom better and more frequently if given the proper diurnal
range. I think this came up a while ago on another topic, but I will
paraphrase - many modern hybrids have had 'stupid' bred into them - at
least when it comes to responding to their normal environmental cues.

All that said, I don't know of many environments where there isn't
some sort of diurnal change in temperatures. Even in a house it is
usually a little cooler at night. It may not be 10 degrees cooler though.

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

K Barrett wrote:

Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in day/night
temps in order to flower.



Many phalaenopsis and most Maudiae type paphs will bloom without a
day/night differential. That's a start. I would agree that they
probably bloom better and more frequently if given the proper diurnal
range. I think this came up a while ago on another topic, but I will
paraphrase - many modern hybrids have had 'stupid' bred into them - at
least when it comes to responding to their normal environmental cues.

All that said, I don't know of many environments where there isn't
some sort of diurnal change in temperatures. Even in a house it is
usually a little cooler at night. It may not be 10 degrees cooler though.

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

My yellow phals are in a greenhouse where the day temps change from 60 to 85
over the year, they flower just fine. My Phla bellina justy opened, and has
been getting a diurnal fluctuation of 60 to 85 daily.
Zygos are grown outdoors where nature gives the a fluctuation of 60 to 90
here. I'm sure its cooler at night than during the day at your house too,
Ray.

K Barrett

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Pick almost any yellow phalaenopsis hybrid, or ascocenda.

I have a Phal. bellina that started spiking for the first time this
summer,
and it sure as hell didn't get any such treatment.

How about zygos? Mine always seem to bloom best in the middle of summer,
too.
--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:kMSWc.39230$9d6.6767@attbi_s54...
Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.

K Barrett

"Ray" wrote in message
...
First of all, not all plants benefit from a day-night temperature
drop,
so
depending on what you're growing, it might not be an issue. The same
is
true of high light levels, but if you're sure about that, move them
gradually into higher light, or you could be setting them up for
significant
damage.

Having said that, probably the best way to keep critters at bay -
short
of
an enclosure - is the spray periodically with neem oil. It is an
"anti-feedant" akin to a true repellant - it tastes bad to bugs.

However, if your plants are near a window, leaving it open might be
sufficient. (I'm guessing you have screens, of course.)

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"HFX guy" wrote in message
news:39AWc.201840$gE.123319@pd7tw3no...
Hi All,
So as a Newbie Orchid Enthusiast I have many questions. One of the
ones
that keeps on bothering me relates to varying the temperature at
night
for
the orchids. I am tempted to moving all of the orchids outdoors so
that
they get the maximum difference in temperature between night and day
and
not
to mention maximal light. But my biggest concern are the bugs that
are
out
there. How does one go about keeping the bugs (and birds - I have
way
too
many "visitors" on my balcony) away from your plants? Any
suggestions
will
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Horace

My yellow phals are in a greenhouse where the day temps change from 60 to 85
over the year, they flower just fine. My Phla bellina justy opened, and has
been getting a diurnal fluctuation of 60 to 85 daily.
Zygos are grown outdoors where nature gives the a fluctuation of 60 to 90
here. I'm sure its cooler at night than during the day at your house too,
Ray.

K Barrett

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Pick almost any yellow phalaenopsis hybrid, or ascocenda.

I have a Phal. bellina that started spiking for the first time this
summer,
and it sure as hell didn't get any such treatment.

How about zygos? Mine always seem to bloom best in the middle of summer,
too.
--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:kMSWc.39230$9d6.6767@attbi_s54...
Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.

K Barrett

"Ray" wrote in message
...
First of all, not all plants benefit from a day-night temperature
drop,
so
depending on what you're growing, it might not be an issue. The same
is
true of high light levels, but if you're sure about that, move them
gradually into higher light, or you could be setting them up for
significant
damage.

Having said that, probably the best way to keep critters at bay -
short
of
an enclosure - is the spray periodically with neem oil. It is an
"anti-feedant" akin to a true repellant - it tastes bad to bugs.

However, if your plants are near a window, leaving it open might be
sufficient. (I'm guessing you have screens, of course.)

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"HFX guy" wrote in message
news:39AWc.201840$gE.123319@pd7tw3no...
Hi All,
So as a Newbie Orchid Enthusiast I have many questions. One of the
ones
that keeps on bothering me relates to varying the temperature at
night
for
the orchids. I am tempted to moving all of the orchids outdoors so
that
they get the maximum difference in temperature between night and day
and
not
to mention maximal light. But my biggest concern are the bugs that
are
out
there. How does one go about keeping the bugs (and birds - I have
way
too
many "visitors" on my balcony) away from your plants? Any
suggestions
will
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Horace

"Myrmecodia" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:kMSWc.39230$9d6.6767@attbi_s54...
Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.

Want or need? Off the top of my head...

Phalaenopsis bellina and P. violacea
Chiloschista lunifera
Psychopsis papilio
Oncidium Gower Ramsey
Cattleya walkeriana
Paphiopedilum (various mottled leaf species)
Polystachya pubescens
Polystachya vulcanica
Brassia verrucosa
Dendrobium antennatum
Cirrhopetalum curtisii
Sophronitis cernua
Neostylis Lou Sneary
Stenoglottis fimbriata

All bloomed reliably for me under lights without a significant
temperature drop at night. I'd suggest that the majority of lowland
tropical orchids do not require a temperature drop to initiate
blooming. Blooming could be triggered by a variety of stimuli:
increased light simulating defoliation of deciduous trees in the dry
season, reduction in watering, subtle changes in day length, or simply
maturation of the newest growth.

Plants from monsoonal climates are probably more likely to bloom in
response to cooling. Some orchids do bloom reliably after a sudden
drop in temperature (Dendrobium crumenatum, for example), and
certainly a temperature drop in the autumn may help others
(cymbidiums, hybrid phals) to spike, but there are lots that don't
require it. Since cooler temperatures in the autumn usually come
bundled with shorter days and reduced fertilizing, I think its unclear
exactly what the plants are responding too.

Orchids that are CAM plants may require a temperature drop for
efficient photosynthesis, and highland tropical plants will want
cooler temperatures at night. But those are daily, not seasonal,
requirements and are not directly linked to initiation of blooming.

Nick
--


Well I'm not going to dig my heels in on this point, and I will admit I
learned something, but I'll still bet that in nature its cooler at night
than it is during the day whereever these orchids come from. And was the
original poster talking about any of the plants on this list?

K Barrett

"Myrmecodia" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:kMSWc.39230$9d6.6767@attbi_s54...
Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.

Want or need? Off the top of my head...

Phalaenopsis bellina and P. violacea
Chiloschista lunifera
Psychopsis papilio
Oncidium Gower Ramsey
Cattleya walkeriana
Paphiopedilum (various mottled leaf species)
Polystachya pubescens
Polystachya vulcanica
Brassia verrucosa
Dendrobium antennatum
Cirrhopetalum curtisii
Sophronitis cernua
Neostylis Lou Sneary
Stenoglottis fimbriata

All bloomed reliably for me under lights without a significant
temperature drop at night. I'd suggest that the majority of lowland
tropical orchids do not require a temperature drop to initiate
blooming. Blooming could be triggered by a variety of stimuli:
increased light simulating defoliation of deciduous trees in the dry
season, reduction in watering, subtle changes in day length, or simply
maturation of the newest growth.

Plants from monsoonal climates are probably more likely to bloom in
response to cooling. Some orchids do bloom reliably after a sudden
drop in temperature (Dendrobium crumenatum, for example), and
certainly a temperature drop in the autumn may help others
(cymbidiums, hybrid phals) to spike, but there are lots that don't
require it. Since cooler temperatures in the autumn usually come
bundled with shorter days and reduced fertilizing, I think its unclear
exactly what the plants are responding too.

Orchids that are CAM plants may require a temperature drop for
efficient photosynthesis, and highland tropical plants will want
cooler temperatures at night. But those are daily, not seasonal,
requirements and are not directly linked to initiation of blooming.

Nick
--


Well I'm not going to dig my heels in on this point, and I will admit I
learned something, but I'll still bet that in nature its cooler at night
than it is during the day whereever these orchids come from. And was the
original poster talking about any of the plants on this list?

K Barrett

"Rob Halgren" wrote in message
...
K Barrett wrote:

Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.



Many phalaenopsis and most Maudiae type paphs will bloom without a
day/night differential. That's a start. I would agree that they
probably bloom better and more frequently if given the proper diurnal
range. I think this came up a while ago on another topic, but I will
paraphrase - many modern hybrids have had 'stupid' bred into them - at
least when it comes to responding to their normal environmental cues.

All that said, I don't know of many environments where there isn't
some sort of diurnal change in temperatures. Even in a house it is
usually a little cooler at night. It may not be 10 degrees cooler though.

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

Thanks Rob.

K

"Rob Halgren" wrote in message
...
K Barrett wrote:

Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.



Many phalaenopsis and most Maudiae type paphs will bloom without a
day/night differential. That's a start. I would agree that they
probably bloom better and more frequently if given the proper diurnal
range. I think this came up a while ago on another topic, but I will
paraphrase - many modern hybrids have had 'stupid' bred into them - at
least when it comes to responding to their normal environmental cues.

All that said, I don't know of many environments where there isn't
some sort of diurnal change in temperatures. Even in a house it is
usually a little cooler at night. It may not be 10 degrees cooler though.

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

Thanks Rob.

K

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 15:48:26 GMT, K Barrett wrote:

"Myrmecodia" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:kMSWc.39230$9d6.6767@attbi_s54...
Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.

Want or need? Off the top of my head...

Phalaenopsis bellina and P. violacea
Chiloschista lunifera
Psychopsis papilio
Oncidium Gower Ramsey
Cattleya walkeriana
Paphiopedilum (various mottled leaf species)
Polystachya pubescens
Polystachya vulcanica
Brassia verrucosa
Dendrobium antennatum
Cirrhopetalum curtisii
Sophronitis cernua
Neostylis Lou Sneary
Stenoglottis fimbriata

All bloomed reliably for me under lights without a significant
temperature drop at night. I'd suggest that the majority of lowland
tropical orchids do not require a temperature drop to initiate
blooming. Blooming could be triggered by a variety of stimuli:
increased light simulating defoliation of deciduous trees in the dry
season, reduction in watering, subtle changes in day length, or simply
maturation of the newest growth.

Plants from monsoonal climates are probably more likely to bloom in
response to cooling. Some orchids do bloom reliably after a sudden
drop in temperature (Dendrobium crumenatum, for example), and
certainly a temperature drop in the autumn may help others
(cymbidiums, hybrid phals) to spike, but there are lots that don't
require it. Since cooler temperatures in the autumn usually come
bundled with shorter days and reduced fertilizing, I think its unclear
exactly what the plants are responding too.

Orchids that are CAM plants may require a temperature drop for
efficient photosynthesis, and highland tropical plants will want
cooler temperatures at night. But those are daily, not seasonal,
requirements and are not directly linked to initiation of blooming.

Nick
--


Well I'm not going to dig my heels in on this point, and I will admit I
learned something, but I'll still bet that in nature its cooler at night
than it is during the day whereever these orchids come from. And was the
original poster talking about any of the plants on this list?

K Barrett

Kathy, you are spot on! What happens when the sun goes down? Cheers Wendy

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 15:48:26 GMT, K Barrett wrote:

"Myrmecodia" wrote in message
om...
"K Barrett" wrote in message
news:kMSWc.39230$9d6.6767@attbi_s54...
Name one orchid that doesn't want at least a 10 degree change in
day/night
temps in order to flower.

Want or need? Off the top of my head...

Phalaenopsis bellina and P. violacea
Chiloschista lunifera
Psychopsis papilio
Oncidium Gower Ramsey
Cattleya walkeriana
Paphiopedilum (various mottled leaf species)
Polystachya pubescens
Polystachya vulcanica
Brassia verrucosa
Dendrobium antennatum
Cirrhopetalum curtisii
Sophronitis cernua
Neostylis Lou Sneary
Stenoglottis fimbriata

All bloomed reliably for me under lights without a significant
temperature drop at night. I'd suggest that the majority of lowland
tropical orchids do not require a temperature drop to initiate
blooming. Blooming could be triggered by a variety of stimuli:
increased light simulating defoliation of deciduous trees in the dry
season, reduction in watering, subtle changes in day length, or simply
maturation of the newest growth.

Plants from monsoonal climates are probably more likely to bloom in
response to cooling. Some orchids do bloom reliably after a sudden
drop in temperature (Dendrobium crumenatum, for example), and
certainly a temperature drop in the autumn may help others
(cymbidiums, hybrid phals) to spike, but there are lots that don't
require it. Since cooler temperatures in the autumn usually come
bundled with shorter days and reduced fertilizing, I think its unclear
exactly what the plants are responding too.

Orchids that are CAM plants may require a temperature drop for
efficient photosynthesis, and highland tropical plants will want
cooler temperatures at night. But those are daily, not seasonal,
requirements and are not directly linked to initiation of blooming.

Nick
--


Well I'm not going to dig my heels in on this point, and I will admit I
learned something, but I'll still bet that in nature its cooler at night
than it is during the day whereever these orchids come from. And was the
original poster talking about any of the plants on this list?

K Barrett

Kathy, you are spot on! What happens when the sun goes down? Cheers Wendy

"Some of the plants that do very well outdoors for me include Dendrobiums,
Oncidiums,
Epidendrums, and Brassias--basically, the weedy-looking stuff."

weedy-looking ? stuff? ! Harrumph!

Jim

"dd" wrote in message
...
First of all, where do you live? Make sure that if you live in a
cold-winter climate, that you bring in any orchids before the night
temperatures get too cold.

I live in New England and summer about 50-60 of my orchids outdoors, on
a three-tier plant stand, on the east side of my house, against the
house, on a bed of crushed rock. Here's what I know about growing
outdoors:

Morning sun is okay in Northern areas, but provide shade from about 11
AM through afternoon, or your plants' leaves will burn. (If you are in
Florida, you'll want to shade your plants earlier in the day.) Also,
provide complete shade at first, so going outside isn't too much of a
shock for the plants. Then gradually increase the light that they
recieve. If your balcony gets a lot of sun, move small potted trees in
front of your orchids to filter the light. Also look at what is around
your plants--glass, metal, etc., to make sure that it isn't going to
reflect a lot of heat back on your plants.

Birds have NEVER bothered my orchids, and I have goldfinch feeders all
over the place. Also note that it is the nature of birds to eat
insects, not orchids. Squirrels, woodchucks, mice, and rabbits can,
however, be a big problem--fox urine (garden stores sell it) keeps them
away.

Insects are not much of a problem for the outdoor orchids--I have more
problem with insects on the indoor plants. If you have insect problems,
spray them every three days in the very early morning with a mix of
rubbing alcohol and a few drops of insecticidal soap until the insects
go away. You could also use a commercial orchid pesticide. Because I
grow my orchids in PrimeAgra, I do not have a problem with pests in the
media; I flush the media completely every week.

If you're growing your orchids on a balcony, you probably won't have a
problem with slugs.

Some plants like being outdoors more than others. I don't put Phals
outdoors because rain and morning dew collects in their crowns and they
die of crown rot. Young plants, especially Cattleyas, do not seem to
like going outdoors as well as mature plants do. Some of the plants
that do very well outdoors for me include Dendrobiums, Oncidiums,
Epidendrums, and Brassias--basically, the weedy-looking stuff. I also
have Cattleyas outdoors, and they do well, but they are not as
sun-tolerant as the other plants, and their leaves tend to sunburn
(Brassavola crosses are less likely to sunburn, don't know why.) I have
just one Vanda outdoors, and it is doing okay but it did have a touch
of brown spot after several days of heavy rains.

Plants that are outdoors in the summer require a LOT MORE water. Check
them daily, especially if it gets hot and dry.

It might be a good idea to join a local orchid society and ask members
what month they move their orchids outside and when they bring them
back in. (You also might score some free plants.)

Good luck.


In article 39AWc.201840$gE.123319@pd7tw3no, HFX guy
wrote:

Hi All,
So as a Newbie Orchid Enthusiast I have many questions. One of the ones
that keeps on bothering me relates to varying the temperature at night
for
the orchids. I am tempted to moving all of the orchids outdoors so that
they get the maximum difference in temperature between night and day and
not
to mention maximal light. But my biggest concern are the bugs that are
out
there. How does one go about keeping the bugs (and birds - I have way
too
many "visitors" on my balcony) away from your plants? Any suggestions
will
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Horace

"Some of the plants that do very well outdoors for me include Dendrobiums,
Oncidiums,
Epidendrums, and Brassias--basically, the weedy-looking stuff."

weedy-looking ? stuff? ! Harrumph!

Jim

"dd" wrote in message
...
First of all, where do you live? Make sure that if you live in a
cold-winter climate, that you bring in any orchids before the night
temperatures get too cold.

I live in New England and summer about 50-60 of my orchids outdoors, on
a three-tier plant stand, on the east side of my house, against the
house, on a bed of crushed rock. Here's what I know about growing
outdoors:

Morning sun is okay in Northern areas, but provide shade from about 11
AM through afternoon, or your plants' leaves will burn. (If you are in
Florida, you'll want to shade your plants earlier in the day.) Also,
provide complete shade at first, so going outside isn't too much of a
shock for the plants. Then gradually increase the light that they
recieve. If your balcony gets a lot of sun, move small potted trees in
front of your orchids to filter the light. Also look at what is around
your plants--glass, metal, etc., to make sure that it isn't going to
reflect a lot of heat back on your plants.

Birds have NEVER bothered my orchids, and I have goldfinch feeders all
over the place. Also note that it is the nature of birds to eat
insects, not orchids. Squirrels, woodchucks, mice, and rabbits can,
however, be a big problem--fox urine (garden stores sell it) keeps them
away.

Insects are not much of a problem for the outdoor orchids--I have more
problem with insects on the indoor plants. If you have insect problems,
spray them every three days in the very early morning with a mix of
rubbing alcohol and a few drops of insecticidal soap until the insects
go away. You could also use a commercial orchid pesticide. Because I
grow my orchids in PrimeAgra, I do not have a problem with pests in the
media; I flush the media completely every week.

If you're growing your orchids on a balcony, you probably won't have a
problem with slugs.

Some plants like being outdoors more than others. I don't put Phals
outdoors because rain and morning dew collects in their crowns and they
die of crown rot. Young plants, especially Cattleyas, do not seem to
like going outdoors as well as mature plants do. Some of the plants
that do very well outdoors for me include Dendrobiums, Oncidiums,
Epidendrums, and Brassias--basically, the weedy-looking stuff. I also
have Cattleyas outdoors, and they do well, but they are not as
sun-tolerant as the other plants, and their leaves tend to sunburn
(Brassavola crosses are less likely to sunburn, don't know why.) I have
just one Vanda outdoors, and it is doing okay but it did have a touch
of brown spot after several days of heavy rains.

Plants that are outdoors in the summer require a LOT MORE water. Check
them daily, especially if it gets hot and dry.

It might be a good idea to join a local orchid society and ask members
what month they move their orchids outside and when they bring them
back in. (You also might score some free plants.)

Good luck.


In article 39AWc.201840$gE.123319@pd7tw3no, HFX guy
wrote:

Hi All,
So as a Newbie Orchid Enthusiast I have many questions. One of the ones
that keeps on bothering me relates to varying the temperature at night
for
the orchids. I am tempted to moving all of the orchids outdoors so that
they get the maximum difference in temperature between night and day and
not
to mention maximal light. But my biggest concern are the bugs that are
out
there. How does one go about keeping the bugs (and birds - I have way
too
many "visitors" on my balcony) away from your plants? Any suggestions
will
be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Horace

Depending on where you are and what the current weather conditions are,
possibly not much at all.

My point was that the plants may not NEED the day/night drop, which was
Kathy's query. Nobody was arguing that they might EXPERIENCE such a change.
Our plants may experience a slug onslaught every now and then, but I
challenge anyone to tell me they NEED it!

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
..
"Wendy" wrote in message
...

Kathy, you are spot on! What happens when the sun goes down? Cheers Wendy

"K Barrett" wrote in message news:ex2Xc.307890$a24.123473@attbi_s03...

Well I'm not going to dig my heels in on this point, and I will admit I
learned something, but I'll still bet that in nature its cooler at night
than it is during the day wherever these orchids come from.

You're probably right, and if you can give them a day/night
temperature difference, you may well be able to grow a wider variety
of orchids successfully. I was simply responding to the idea that all
orchids require a day/night temperature difference to bloom.

I guess we should also distinguish between diurnal temperature
differences (sometimes but not always required for healthy growth) and
seasonal temperature differences (sometimes but not always required
for blooming).

And was the original poster talking about any of the plants on this
list?

He doesn't seem to have mentioned any particular plants.

regards,
Nick
--

Hello Everyone!

Thank you very much for everyone's advice and suggestions! I am living in
Victoria, British Columbia where the temperature is about 70 F during the
day and about 55 F during the night (these are approximate as I am use to
using a Celcius reading). At present I place the orchids infront of my
balcony door (inside the living room), which is open, and allow a gentle
cool breeze to come in overnight. But during the day, I shut it back up
(for security purposes) and I would say that there is already a 10 degree
difference in the temperature...although I think I can do better. Even with
the door open, my apartment is still quite warm so that is why I feel that I
should move them out. At present I am subjecting my Cymbidium, paphs, phals
to this climate change. I have dendrobiums and other species as well, but I
lack the space to have them feel the coolness. You can see pictures of some
of my orchids he http://members.shaw.ca/hlmisc/orchidcollection.htm My
apartment conveniently faces the east (actually this was my big concern when
I was looking for a place to live) so I get a lot of morning sun.

The people who live a floor below me have bird feeders and that attracts a
lot of little birds which enjoy sitting and sh*tting on my balcony. They
have a tendency to rummage through my potted tomato plant so I 'm just
worried that they'll do the same to the orchids. With the regards to the
insects I don't think I will have a problem with slugs (because I live on
the third floor) it's just things like wasps, spiders and general flies that
I have to worry about.

Once again, thanks everyone!
Horace



--
Please visit Horace's Page of Eternal Art
http://members.shaw.ca/hluong68/indexf.html