On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 11:11:11 CST, "Carole"
wrote:

Big problem - In the last week I've found 3 of the larger goldfish just
floating dead in the water. They have no signs of any disease and look
perfectly OK otherwise, just dead. This is very distressing as I'm
spending every
moment checking the pond and expecting all my little friends to die. I put
some medifin in the pond a couple of days ago (I treat it twice a year
normally - Spring and Autumn), but I've had another death since then.

I converted a hot tub to goldfish pond this year and had a similar
experience. I did notice as I was inspecting the dead fish the gills
were dull red/purple and thought perhaps it was parasites. I used
Anchors Away (dimlin) and in a few days the fish began moving around
more and I haven't lost another fish since. I'm not good at figuring
out what makes them die, goldfish just die, but this is not the first
time I've improved the goldfish's life with parasite treatment.

Another factor in my guessing parasites is that I can't keep birds out
of the pond. (Not predators, just songbirds.) They aren't satisfied
to drink and leave they have to bathe, drop and invite all their
friends to share the water they just crapped in.

The only thing that's changed recently (don't know if it could possibly be
the reason) - I recently netted the pond because we were visited by a heron,
then I realised that the frogs and newts couldn't get in and out so I put a
length of wood into the water from the side. The wood is sapele (sp?) and
is definitely untreated, but I know some hardwoods have funny substances in
them - do you think this might have poisoned the water ??

I'm not familiar with the type wood you are using, but I doubt it has
any noticeable effect on the fish. Some purists make strong claims
about everything from treated wood to roofing liner and I've yet seen
the proof of such claims in my pond. I use pressure treated wood in
my filters as frames and some of it has been in place so long I'll
soon have to replace it. I'd look for parasites or disease as the
reason for the fish dying. I'll bet you don't have a microscope to
view scrapings either, so I'd make the best guess and press on like
most of us do.

Regards,

Hal

dark red/purple gills are either parasites, but most likely toxic
water conditions.
dimilin treats only lice or anchor worms. it would be easy to see
those with the naked eye.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 11:39:23 CST, Hal wrote:
as I was inspecting the dead fish the gillswere dull red/purple and
thought perhaps it was parasites. I used
Anchors Away (dimlin)

On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 12:01:37 CST, wrote:

dark red/purple gills are either parasites, but most likely toxic
water conditions.
dimilin treats only lice or anchor worms. it would be easy to see
those with the naked eye.

The original poster, Carol, (From UK.) may have a different problem
and if I gave you bad information, I'm sorry. Your situation sounded
similar to mine, but I check water parameters and consider good water
parameters a given.

I've seen anchor worms, but I couldn't see any parasites when I looked
at the dead fish recently. I just did the water change and added the
second recommended dose of dimlin yesterday and the fish are
apparently feeling better since they come to the top more frequently
than before the dimlin treatment began.

Since I'm not seeing another problem your comments make me think I
should look closer, but my pH= 7.8, Ammonia= 0, NO2= 0, NO3= 0, and I
don't think checking salt, KH and GH is really applicable to my
situation, but if you have other ideas, I hope you guys know I respect
your opinion and am waiting to hear.

Regards,

Hal

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 13:56:29 CST, Hal wrote:

Since I'm not seeing another problem your comments make me think I
should look closer, but my pH= 7.8, Ammonia= 0, NO2= 0, NO3= 0, and I
don't think checking salt, KH and GH is really applicable to my
situation, but if you have other ideas, I hope you guys know I respect
your opinion and am waiting to hear.
Hal

This is just a fyi....

KH (buffering) is actually more important than pH, since fish can handle pH
of 6.5-8.5 (probably even slightly higher or lower), but if the pH is
swinging due to low buffering, you can have serious problems. Not only are
all those things hard on the fish, but even the bacteria, in the filter on
pond surfaces, etc., processing the waste do not work as effectively.

Latest info is leave the pH alone, keep the buffering solid. The bad thing
about a high pH is it can make plants fail to thrive. ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

On Jun 27, 4:15 pm, ~ jan wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 13:56:29 CST, Hal wrote:
Since I'm not seeing another problem your comments make me think I
should look closer, but my pH= 7.8, Ammonia= 0, NO2= 0, NO3= 0, and I
don't think checking salt, KH and GH is really applicable to my
situation, but if you have other ideas, I hope you guys know I respect
your opinion and am waiting to hear.
Hal

This is just a fyi....

KH (buffering) is actually more important than pH, since fish can handle pH
of 6.5-8.5 (probably even slightly higher or lower), but if the pH is
swinging due to low buffering, you can have serious problems. Not only are
all those things hard on the fish, but even the bacteria, in the filter on
pond surfaces, etc., processing the waste do not work as effectively.

Latest info is leave the pH alone, keep the buffering solid. The bad thing
about a high pH is it can make plants fail to thrive. ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds:www.jjspond.us

Shouldn't the PH be around 7.0 when you add the buffer?

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 19:34:04 CST, chatnoir wrote:

Shouldn't the PH be around 7.0 when you add the buffer?

pH # doesn't matter, if the buffer is needed, add it. Only time one needs
to be careful is if ammonia is present. Then Amquel or similar ammonia
detox should be added first. Buffer is a must to keep pH stable. If you
have enough in your natural water source, water changes will take care of
it if done often enough. Bio-action is what uses it up. If there is not
enough buffering in your water source, then you'll need to add something. I
use Baking Soda when needed, but there are other sources. Hopefully those
who use other sources will chime in. :-) ~ jan
------------
Zone 7a, SE Washington State
Ponds: www.jjspond.us

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 16:15:50 CST, ~ jan wrote:

This is just a fyi....

KH (buffering) is actually more important than pH, since fish can handle pH
of 6.5-8.5 (probably even slightly higher or lower), but if the pH is
swinging due to low buffering, you can have serious problems. Not only are
all those things hard on the fish, but even the bacteria, in the filter on
pond surfaces, etc., processing the waste do not work as effectively.

Thanks, Jan!

Latest info is leave the pH alone, keep the buffering solid. The bad thing
about a high pH is it can make plants fail to thrive. ~ jan

How high is too high for pH and plant growth. Today I have pH of 7.8
and yellow parrot feather, the water hyacinth I threw in last week
isn't a picture of health either.

Regards,

Hal