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Old 04-05-2006, 02:14 PM
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Location: Manchester
Posts: 139
Default shrub rose planting recommendations

i've bought a David austin queen of denmark as a present for a friend whose house we recently stayed in Atlanta Georgia.

this rose is recommended for shady positions so its going near to a north wall.

as its going to be planted this month, should he cut back the new growth when planting or should he cut below the new growth when planting

i ask this as i've read roses establish better (especially in hot southern us summer) if cut back when planted. also how far should he plant from the wall?

i'm assuming other than that i just recommend he plants below the graft point, in a hole with well rotted manure dug in, and a sprinkling of rose fertiliser. and ensure he gives its a deep soak with water once a week

apprecaite your help
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:22 PM posted to rec.gardens.roses
Gail Futoran
 
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Default shrub rose planting recommendations

"Tiger303" wrote in message
...

i've bought a David austin queen of denmark as a present for a friend
whose house we recently stayed in Atlanta Georgia.


Nice gift!

Do you mean Queen of Sweden?
Queen of Denmark is listed at www.helpmefind.com
as either an 1826 Alba or an 1826 Damask.
The same site lists Queen of Sweden as a recent
David Austin offering.

this rose is recommended for shady positions so its going near to a
north wall.


Roses do best with 6 hours of sunlight. Some
roses can do with less, but generally no less than
4 hours. Was this "recommendation" on the
tag, or from some other source?

as its going to be planted this month, should he cut back the new
growth when planting or should he cut below the new growth when
planting


I assume it's in a pot. I generally don't cut back
unless the top growth is so unwieldly that I'd
damage the rose (or me!) getting it into the hole.

If the pot is a thin-sided black plastic pot like
USA nurseries typically use, I handle it like this:
-slit off the bottom with a razor or sharp knife
-make 3 slits about half-way up from the bottom,
evenly spread around the pot (make sure the
soil doesn't fall out at this point!)
-put the rose in the hole and get the level right
(not too deep, not too shallow). Once that's done,
pile dirt around the pot halfway and firm. Water
to settle the soil.
-Slit the pot the rest of the way up and carefully
remove the pieces. Finish piling in the dirt and
water thoroughly.

i ask this as i've read roses establish better (especially in hot
southern us summer) if cut back when planted. also how far should he
plant from the wall?


Walls reflect heat, even north facing walls. So
unless he wants to have to water more than usual,
I'd go out far enough that there is sufficient space
for air circulation. Keep in mind the *mature* size
of the plant. Queen of Sweden (if that is indeed the
rose you purchased) is listed as reaching a maximum
height of 100 cm.
General rule #1: Plant at least half the mature height from
other shrubs or objects.
General rule #1 exception: Some roses are wider
than they are tall, so plant based on the mature width.

General rule #2: Remember that he'll have to
prune the rose etc. so if he can't easily get to
the back of it, it could be a problem in the future.
Queen of Sweden appears to be a small bush, so
access probably won't be a problem.

i'm assuming other than that i just recommend he plants below the graft
point, in a hole with well rotted manure dug in, and a sprinkling of
rose fertiliser. and ensure he gives its a deep soak with water once a
week


In the south it's better to plant the bud union
*above* ground level. In the north USA the
bud union is generally planted below ground level.

Do not fertilize when you plant a rose. Wait until
the rose is established, growing, and has had an
initial bloom. Then you can fertilize it. Otherwise
the prepared soil should be sufficient. The best
thing you can do for a newly planted rose, other
than good soil, is what you said: water it well. But
also make sure there is good drainage. Roses don't
like it when their roots stand in water for long.

Mention that if he sees any canes growing from
*below* the bud union, to pull them off. They
would be coming from the rootstock, which
tends to be more rigorous than the scion - the
top part of the rose. Rootstocks can take over
a bush.

apprecaite your help


HTH
Gail
near San Antonio TX USA Zone 8


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Old 05-05-2006, 03:21 PM
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Location: Manchester
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Default

thanks for your help, especially re graft union/fertiliser/hours of sun recommendations

and yes its defo a queen of denmark, similar i believe to sweden as both are albas. if interested so a search on david austin's website
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Old 07-05-2006, 02:48 PM posted to rec.gardens.roses
Gail Futoran
 
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Default shrub rose planting recommendations

"Tiger303" wrote in message
...

thanks for your help, especially re graft union/fertiliser/hours of sun
recommendations

and yes its defo a queen of denmark, similar i believe to sweden as
both are albas. if interested so a search on david austin's website


--
Tiger303


"Queen of Denmark", as listed on David Austin Rose's
website, is clearly listed as an Alba, which is an old garden
rose. I.e., it was not developed by David Austin,
since it predates his birth by 100 years - 1826.

If you bought a "David Austin Rose" hybridized by
David Austin or his staff, then it would have to be
the 2004 David Austin rose "Queen of Sweden".
Albas, which are old garden roses, and modern shrub
roses, such as those *hybridized* by David Austin,
are NOT the same.

There can be very different cultural requirements for
old garden roses as for modern roses. Also, bloom
cycles can vary quite a bit. Most modern roses bloom
throughout a growing season. In Atlanta, that would be
for most of a year. Many old garden roses bloom
ONCE in the spring, some blooming again, but not as
much, in the fall.

Albas, such as "Queen of Denmark", bloom only once
a year. Modern shrubs, such as "Queen of Sweden",
repeat blooms. See the difference?

The American Rose Society website has an
article on Albas:
http://www.ars.org/About_Roses/ogrs_alba.htm

How a rose blooms, it's cultural requirements (soil,
fertilization, water, amount of sunlight, sensitivity to
sprays used on modern roses, etc), its size, do make
a difference in terms of planting needs, planting
location, owner expectations for blooms, etc.

For example, the David Austin website clearly states
English roses CAN be grown in PARTIAL shade
but still need 3-4 hours of sunlight. "Can be grown
in partial shade" means, generally, such roses *do
better* with at least six hours of sunlight, as I
mentioned previously, but will not suffer unduly
with somewhat less sunlight. I.e., the performance
of your friend's rose, whatever it is, can be very
different depending on how much sunlight it gets.

Since you noted the rose you gave your friend
is *grafted*, it must be the 2004 David Austin rose
"Queen of Sweden". Albas grow on their own
roots. For a grafted rose one has to be concerned
about shoots coming from below the graft. For
an own root rose, ALL SHOOTS are part of
the rose and should not be pruned except as
part of a normal pruning regimen, i.e., to keep
the rose open in the center, etc.

I admit the David Austin website is not very clear
with regard to which roses were hybridized by
David Austin and which are simply roses they
sell, either found or hybridized by others. That's
why I mentioned the site www.helpmefind.com
which is interested in providing information,
rather than in selling anything.

Perhaps you should contact your friend in Atlanta
and ask him to check the metal tag on the rose to
confirm which rose it is. I know you firmly
believe the rose is "Queen of Denmark", but the
facts simply do not add up.

I could be missing something, and if so, I don't
mind admitting I'm wrong. I own a number of
David Austin roses but not "Queen of Sweden".
I own a number of different kinds of old garden
roses, but no Albas. Hence, the information I
have provided above on specific varieties is
almost entirely from research, not from personal
experience.

Gail
near San Antonio TX USA


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