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#1
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White powdery mildew
I have one rose. Not special rose, just a small thorny thing, but an old
buddy. Every Spring it suffers from white powdery mildew and I try various things on it which may or may not works well. This Spring I was gone a lot and it suffered to the point it did not provide the first set of flowers. I finally got time with it and trimmed back severely and treated with some off the shelf stuff which seemed to work. What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? Thank you Jim |
#2
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White powdery mildew
In article DQYRa.94052$H17.28625@sccrnsc02, "James says...
I have one rose. Not special rose, just a small thorny thing, but an old buddy. Every Spring it suffers from white powdery mildew and I try various things on it which may or may not works well. This Spring I was gone a lot and it suffered to the point it did not provide the first set of flowers. I finally got time with it and trimmed back severely and treated with some off the shelf stuff which seemed to work. What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? Thank you Jim Below is what the Petaluma Rose Company says about it: Powdery Mildew looks like a white dusting on rose leaves. It is controlled by Orthenex. The organic method is 1T baking soda, 1T vinegar, 1 T vegetable oil to a gallon of water. Other good sprays are neem oil, horticultural oils or ultra fine oil (spray on cool days). I've used the organic method, neem oil method and am now trying Orthenex (it was a gift). All seemed to work for me. I'm in a climate that is hot and has NO rain from May to October (zone 9) and it's currently 94 degrees as I write this. elfa |
#3
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White powdery mildew
In article DQYRa.94052$H17.28625@sccrnsc02, James Curts
wrote: I have one rose. Not special rose, just a small thorny thing, but an old buddy. Every Spring it suffers from white powdery mildew and I try various things on it which may or may not works well. This Spring I was gone a lot and it suffered to the point it did not provide the first set of flowers. I finally got time with it and trimmed back severely and treated with some off the shelf stuff which seemed to work. What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? An expensive but very effective maybe organic method is called Erase. It is made from jojoba oil and will have a dramatic and immediate effect of PM. Unfortunately, it doesn't last long. If you want to use an organic approach, I recommend it highly. Sorry it's so expensive, but a quart will last a long time. |
#4
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White powdery mildew
Powerdy Mildew is a fungal disease and with all of the fungal diseases
specific to roses, PREVENTION is the best method. Once the leaves are affected you can 'kill' the spores, however it will not go away from the affected leaves. The strategy is to stop it and prevent further occurances by regular preventative treatment. For a single rose bush an aerosol spary is probably the most cost effective solution, I believe that you can get Orthenex in an aerosol spray can from most garden centers. The better fungicides are expensive and probably out of the question for a single bush. Orthenex is a combination of insecticide and fungicide in a single product. A word of caution, Othenex contains triforine, this is a VERY HAZARDOUS chemical, you MUST follow the directions on the label and wear protective clothing: long sleeves, long pants, gloves and at least a dust mask. The 'organic' methods are a viable option, however if you live in an alkaline area, DON'T use an alkali (baking soda) on the bush. It just increases the pH problem you already have. Tim "James Curts" wrote in message newsQYRa.94052$H17.28625@sccrnsc02... I have one rose. Not special rose, just a small thorny thing, but an old buddy. Every Spring it suffers from white powdery mildew and I try various things on it which may or may not works well. This Spring I was gone a lot and it suffered to the point it did not provide the first set of flowers. I finally got time with it and trimmed back severely and treated with some off the shelf stuff which seemed to work. What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? Thank you Jim |
#5
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White powdery mildew
I appreciate the help folks and from your answers I am sure I can make my
rose more comfortable, productive and attractive. Jim "James Curts" wrote in message newsQYRa.94052$H17.28625@sccrnsc02... I have one rose. Not special rose, just a small thorny thing, but an old buddy. Every Spring it suffers from white powdery mildew and I try various things on it which may or may not works well. This Spring I was gone a lot and it suffered to the point it did not provide the first set of flowers. I finally got time with it and trimmed back severely and treated with some off the shelf stuff which seemed to work. What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? Thank you Jim |
#6
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White powdery mildew
Jim,
I just re-read your initial post, and I was just wondering what the "off the shelf stuff which seemed to work" is? I would think this might have some bearing on what to do next. Anne Lurie Raleigh, NC "James Curts" wrote in message newsQYRa.94052$H17.28625@sccrnsc02... I have one rose. Not special rose, just a small thorny thing, but an old buddy. Every Spring it suffers from white powdery mildew and I try various things on it which may or may not works well. This Spring I was gone a lot and it suffered to the point it did not provide the first set of flowers. I finally got time with it and trimmed back severely and treated with some off the shelf stuff which seemed to work. What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? Thank you Jim |
#7
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White powdery mildew
"James Curts" wrote in message news:vgfSa.98625$Ph3.12015@sccrnsc04... I appreciate the help folks and from your answers I am sure I can make my rose more comfortable, productive and attractive. You could get it some friends, to start with. A nice floribunda, to keep it company, perhaps? A choice Austin, or perhaps a handful of minis at its feet? I admire your restraint. One rose. sigh Scopata Fuori "Bad Cat!" |
#8
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White powdery mildew
James Curts wrote: What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? I have some Nearly Wild bushes that had a persistant case of mildew two years running. I sprayed with everthing I could find and kept the damage down to curled and dusty looking leaves and the occaisional dried up bud, but nothing cured the problem. Last Fall I sprayed with lime sulfer after the plants went dormant. So far the plants are clean this year with just the normal 7 to ten day Funginex program. Early on, in this case, meant the prior Fall, Regards, Charles -- Charles Perry Reply to: ** A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand ** |
#9
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White powdery mildew
In Tim Tompkins wrote:
A word of caution, Othenex contains triforine, this is a VERY HAZARDOUS chemical, you MUST follow the directions on the label and wear protective clothing: long sleeves, long pants, gloves and at least a dust mask. BS (and no, that's not short for black spot!). If Orthenex is harmful then it's not because of the triforine component - probably more from the insecticide in it. Triforine has almost no safety warnings or concerns. You can buy it as a concentrate or as a ready made trigger pack. Having said that, I've found triforine only mildly beneficial on mildew. The best preventative I know is foliar feeding, especially with seaweed emulsion. The best remedy for me has turned out to be 4 weekly sprays of one part whole milk to 5 parts water. And DON'T trim the affected foliage. Cure it instead! |
#10
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White powdery mildew
"Scopata Fuori" wrote in message ... "James Curts" wrote in message news:vgfSa.98625$Ph3.12015@sccrnsc04... I appreciate the help folks and from your answers I am sure I can make my rose more comfortable, productive and attractive. You could get it some friends, to start with. A nice floribunda, to keep it company, perhaps? A choice Austin, or perhaps a handful of minis at its feet? I admire your restraint. One rose. Just as I like it. Only got one woman too. Jim |
#11
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White powdery mildew
"Anne Lurie" wrote in message . com... Jim, I just re-read your initial post, and I was just wondering what the "off the shelf stuff which seemed to work" is? I would think this might have some bearing on what to do next. Anne Lurie Raleigh, NC Spectacide Immunox. Oh, ......... well, I never heard of it either. But the girl in Lowe's swore on a pile of hat boxes it would do the job. I trimmed the plant back to where the leaves were only slightly affected and sprayed the dickens out of them one time and voila', I now have a great, productive rose bush again. Jim |
#12
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White powdery mildew
"Charles Perry" wrote in message ... James Curts wrote: What do I use early on before serious infestation occurs to help this rose? I have some Nearly Wild bushes that had a persistant case of mildew two years running. I sprayed with everthing I could find and kept the damage down to curled and dusty looking leaves and the occaisional dried up bud, but nothing cured the problem. Last Fall I sprayed with lime sulfer after the plants went dormant. So far the plants are clean this year with just the normal 7 to ten day Funginex program. Early on, in this case, meant the prior Fall, Regards, Charles Again, Thanks for all the great ideas. I think I'll try just a little of each one just to be sure. Jim |
#13
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White powdery mildew
It IS the triforine, read the label!
"Triforine is a "restricted use" pesticide (RUP) with an EPA toxicity classification of I (highly toxic). Check with specific state regulations for local restrictions which may apply. Products containing triforine must bear the Signal Word "Danger" on their label." See: http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles...orine-ext.html "Daniel Hanna" wrote in message home.com.au... In Tim Tompkins wrote: A word of caution, Othenex contains triforine, this is a VERY HAZARDOUS chemical, you MUST follow the directions on the label and wear protective clothing: long sleeves, long pants, gloves and at least a dust mask. BS (and no, that's not short for black spot!). If Orthenex is harmful then it's not because of the triforine component - probably more from the insecticide in it. Triforine has almost no safety warnings or concerns. You can buy it as a concentrate or as a ready made trigger pack. Having said that, I've found triforine only mildly beneficial on mildew. The best preventative I know is foliar feeding, especially with seaweed emulsion. The best remedy for me has turned out to be 4 weekly sprays of one part whole milk to 5 parts water. And DON'T trim the affected foliage. Cure it instead! |
#14
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White powdery mildew
In Tim Tompkins wrote:
"Triforine is a "restricted use" pesticide (RUP) with an EPA toxicity classification of I (highly toxic). Check with specific state regulations for local restrictions which may apply. Products containing triforine must bear the Signal Word "Danger" on their label. " So much for labels. Read the text, Tim! Has it killed anyone? Caused cancer, perhaps? Maybe some birth defects or mutations? No? Perhaps some soil persistence issues, then? Or maybe it accumulates in the human body over time, then? No? Triforine doesn't even kill aphids, Tim. Now read http://www.roseshawaii.org/msds/orthenex.htm and see what it says. Bingo, the dangerous part of this combination product is acephate. It can poison a foetus and cause organ toxicity like other anti- cholinesterase (organophosphate) chemicals. Even then it's pretty minor league, compared to others in common garden use. Try looking up dimethoate or diazinon for a real scare. |
#15
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White powdery mildew
In article .com.au,
Daniel Hanna wrote: In Tim Tompkins wrote: "Triforine is a "restricted use" pesticide (RUP) with an EPA toxicity classification of I (highly toxic). Check with specific state regulations for local restrictions which may apply. Products containing triforine must bear the Signal Word "Danger" on their label. " So much for labels. Read the text, Tim! Has it killed anyone? Caused cancer, perhaps? Maybe some birth defects or mutations? No? Perhaps some soil persistence issues, then? Or maybe it accumulates in the human body over time, then? No? Triforine doesn't even kill aphids, Tim. Now read http://www.roseshawaii.org/msds/orthenex.htm and see what it says. Bingo, the dangerous part of this combination product is acephate. It can poison a foetus and cause organ toxicity like other anti- cholinesterase (organophosphate) chemicals. Even then it's pretty minor league, compared to others in common garden use. Try looking up dimethoate or diazinon for a real scare. You're putting too fine point on it, Daniel. MSDS in the US requires labeling for " inert ingredients [that] may be hazardous chemicals, as defined by the Federal OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). " So even if you are right that Triforine itself is not hazardous, the *formulation* has the DANGER label because it can cause permanent damage to the eyes and blindness. We have no access to triforine without the accompanying dangerous inert ingredient. The label for Triforine EC states: POTENTIAL HEALTH EFFECTS Acute Toxicity (Primary Routes of Exposure) *****Eye: This substance is a severe eye irritant and could cause permanent damage to your eyes and blindness. The degree of the injury will depend on the amount of material that gets into the eye and the speed and thoroughness of the first aid treatment. Signs and symptoms may include pain, tears, swelling, redness, and blurred vision.***** In the UK: http://www.pan-uk.org/pestnews/pn33/pn33p3.htm They don't know what has caused the *permanent corneal damage*, whether any one of the components or the combination. The point is: **Animal tests show severe eye and skin irritancy** Toxicity data on the Roseclear concentrate was submitted to the Pesticides Safety Directorate (PSD) of MAFF in April 1995 and included studies on skin and eye irritancy. The studies, using the concentrated product (the form in which it is sold), on eye irritancy caused most concern. The corneas of test animals were severely damaged, resulting in the permanent clouding of vision, indicating that Roseclear is an extremely severe eye irritant, and should be classified as 'Risk of Serious Damage to Eyes'. In the skin irritation study, the concentrated product was applied directly to skin for four hours. The* severe effects which followed indicate that the product is an extreme skin irritant. It more useful to know the followng from http://www.rosemania.com/Chemical_Spray_Safety.htm: "The most toxic pesticides carry the word DANGER on the label, are listed as highly toxic and are classified by the Environmental Protection Agency as Category I pesticides. Based on lethality information, it would only take ingestion of a few drops of a liquid or about 3.5 grams (remember that there are 454 grams per pound) of a solid to kill a 150 lb man. Category I pesticides with this lethality potential can only be applied by licensed applicators, and are not available for general use by the home gardener. However, some pesticides available to the home gardener are listed as Category I pesticides based on their ability to produce severe skin and/or eye damage. These pesticides include: *Orthenex,* Vendex, Isotox, Mavrik 2E, Captan dust or powder, *Triforine EC, * *Lime Sulfur and Copper Sulfate (99%+)*. (emphasis added)" |
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