The message
from contains these words:

Felling a whole tree is easier/safer if you cut it two or three feet
from the ground.

But when it begins to go, get out of the way quickly, as the cut bole
may kick backwards: and often, the trunks of smaller trees may spring
back like a battering-ram when they hit the ground if the branches have
a lot of springiness in them.

--
Rusty
Emus to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co full-stop uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/

Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
The message
from contains these words:

Felling a whole tree is easier/safer if you cut it two or three feet
from the ground.

But when it begins to go, get out of the way quickly, as the cut bole
may kick backwards: and often, the trunks of smaller trees may spring
back like a battering-ram when they hit the ground if the branches have
a lot of springiness in them.

I think it's the first rule when felling a tree isn't it? Make sure
you have planned your escape route away from the base of the tree and
use it *immediately* the tree begins to fall.

This is one of many safety rules to be observed when felling trees,
that's why I said a bit of reading and learning is prudent before
doing it. Many of the rules will apply (and be important) whatever
sort of tool you are using to cut the tree. It's not just using a
chainsaw that makes the job potentially dangerous if you're not
careful and/or are not aware of the risks.

--
Chris Green

Jaques d'Alltrades wrote:
Yes, I think I'd agree with that, using a chansaw for the first time
to fell a tree is probably not a good idea. However there are other
risks in felling trees which are nothing to do with the sort of saw
you use, the OP should at least read how to fell trees safely before
attempting it, whatever sort of saw they're using.

Yes, that's good advice too. You really need to be able to walk round a
tree and gauge where it will fall if you cut the trunk straight across,
then know (and this only comes with experience) where to put the cut and
at which angle to get it to fall in another direction. It pays, if your
tree cannot be felled into an open space, or if there is anything close
which might be damaged, to attach at least one strong rope high up, so
helpers can guide it if it doesn't fall just where you expected.

We always rope our trees when felling, it doesn't take much extra time
and does give you rather more confidence that the tree will drop where
you intend it to.

--
Chris Green

In article ,
Jaques d'Alltrades writes:
|
| You haven't seen it - it probably doesn't even work reliably. If
| you live near me, you may collect, but I disclaim all responsibility.
|
| Proper address slipped out in error - yes, I live within er, eighty
| miles. A day trip is not out of the question: buses from Norwich are
| easy. Besides, I'd like to make it during term time, so I can fit in
| Choral Evensong at John's.
|
| But I won't be getting my first pension payment for about six weeks,
| they tell me. (By which time it should be a fortune...) Would that be
| too long to hang on to it?

Considering that it has been stuck in our garage for several years,
probably not. However, it is a cheap and nasty one, was in bad
condition when we received it, and I should be VERY reluctant to
give it to anyone who can't renovate chainsaws. Yes, it does need
proper renovation, and may not be salvageable - I haven't even
looked at it in detail. In fact, I should have to check that we
still have it.

| And, no, I will NOT take payment ....
|
| But you might have your arm twisted if the right seeds are to hand?

I should be happy to accept suitable ones, but as a separate matter :-)


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.