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#1
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Ivy / Safe climber
Hi all!
I'm totally new to gardening and this group, so would appreciate any help you can give! I've looked through the archive, but can't find anything completely relevant. So, thanks in advance for any help you can give! I'd very much like to plant climbers of some sort on the front and back walls of my house (a north and a south facing wall). But, the property has a history of (1) subsidence owing to wisteria on the south-facing wall abstracting water from the soil causing movement to the property (London soil), and (2) damage to brickwork from ivy on the north-facing wall. Apparently, I am going to have to remove both of these climbers. In the circumstances, can you recommend any climbers that look pretty covering houses, but which do not increase thw risk of subsidence or damage to brickwork? Do I need to find different plants, or can I keep what I have got but (1) pull them off the brickwork and mount them on trellises set back from the walls and (2) water them a lot! Many thanks for your thoughts! Sorry if these questions are really basic! All the best, Richard |
#2
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Ivy / Safe climber
Dear Richard, These questions are not basic! However it would be
worthwhile consulting the builder or surveyor to ask if it is wise to replant. If it is positive then the Ivy would not be a good candidate, trellis would help if you can grow non clinging plants, i.e. Clematis, Roses or Solanum. Other varieties come to mind but from the question you have posed it seems unlikely that planting is an option. Just to add, the north wall is suitable for Rosa banksia, if you have the room. Pot grown plants could overcome the problem. Another alternernative is to plant away from the house wall and carry the plant on a trellis to the chosen wall. Tell us what you think!!!!! Steve. |
#3
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Ivy / Safe climber
"Richard M" wrote in message oups.com... Hi all! I'm totally new to gardening and this group, so would appreciate any help you can give! I've looked through the archive, but can't find anything completely relevant. So, thanks in advance for any help you can give! I'd very much like to plant climbers of some sort on the front and back walls of my house (a north and a south facing wall). But, the property has a history of (1) subsidence owing to wisteria on the south-facing wall abstracting water from the soil causing movement to the property (London soil), and (2) damage to brickwork from ivy on the north-facing wall. Apparently, I am going to have to remove both of these climbers. In the circumstances, can you recommend any climbers that look pretty covering houses, but which do not increase thw risk of subsidence or damage to brickwork? Do I need to find different plants, or can I keep what I have got but (1) pull them off the brickwork and mount them on trellises set back from the walls and (2) water them a lot! Many thanks for your thoughts! Sorry if these questions are really basic! All the best, Richard I have never heard it suggested (until now) that the roots of Wisteria would cause subsidence. I guess in your case there is subsidence already and the wisteria does not help? |
#4
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Ivy / Safe climber
"Rupert" wrote in message ... "Richard M" wrote in message oups.com... Hi all! I'm totally new to gardening and this group, so would appreciate any help you can give! I've looked through the archive, but can't find anything completely relevant. So, thanks in advance for any help you can give! I'd very much like to plant climbers of some sort on the front and back walls of my house (a north and a south facing wall). But, the property has a history of (1) subsidence owing to wisteria on the south-facing wall abstracting water from the soil causing movement to the property (London soil), and (2) damage to brickwork from ivy on the north-facing wall. Apparently, I am going to have to remove both of these climbers. In the circumstances, can you recommend any climbers that look pretty covering houses, but which do not increase thw risk of subsidence or damage to brickwork? Do I need to find different plants, or can I keep what I have got but (1) pull them off the brickwork and mount them on trellises set back from the walls and (2) water them a lot! Many thanks for your thoughts! Sorry if these questions are really basic! All the best, Richard I have never heard it suggested (until now) that the roots of Wisteria would cause subsidence. I guess in your case there is subsidence already and the wisteria does not help? Well Wisteria do like moisture, but I would have thought it would have to be of some size to cause damage (I have heard of them pulling down the fronts of houses as they can weight a lot when 100+ years old!) As Rupert suggests maybe there was/is subsidence anyway and the Wisteria is getting the blame! Is it a case of a surveyor covering himself or can you see there is a problem? Personally I would put up with quite a lot of problems to keep an established Wisteria, but then my house has no foundations at all :~) Trellises work, and climbers such as Clematis would never undermine or do damage, but you can not expect a big climber to do a good job over the long term in a pot, they need to be in the ground but they can as has been suggested be planted at some distance then bridged across to the wall with an arch or somesuch. -- Charlie, gardening in Cornwall. http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk Holders of National Plant Collection of Clematis viticella (cvs) |
#5
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Ivy / Safe climber
"Richard M" wrote in message oups.com... Hi all! I'm totally new to gardening and this group, so would appreciate any help you can give! I've looked through the archive, but can't find anything completely relevant. So, thanks in advance for any help you can give! I'd very much like to plant climbers of some sort on the front and back walls of my house (a north and a south facing wall). But, the property has a history of (1) subsidence owing to wisteria on the south-facing wall abstracting water from the soil causing movement to the property (London soil), and (2) damage to brickwork from ivy on the north-facing wall. Apparently, I am going to have to remove both of these climbers. On the north side of our house we have Boston Ivy, (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), it clings by suckers to the face of the brickwork. It doesn't do any damage I'm aware of, and all the maintenance it gets is once a year (soon, if the weather turns mild) I cut it off at the level of the top of the ground floor windows. Once cut, you can just pull it off, gently does it and you can get the whole length of it. It does spread all over the front of the house, and head for next doors if not cut back. It looks fantastic when the foliage turns a rich reddish brown in autumn, and birds love to roost in it through the summer, they usually disappear at a rate of knots when the front door is opened, the Mrs jumps out of her skin every time, she never learns. :-)) The only slight downside is in late autumn, after the red/brown display, the leaves fall off the leaf stalks, leaving the stalks sticking out like bristles and it looks really stupid until the stalks also fall off. HTH Steve |
#6
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Ivy / Safe climber
"shazzbat" wrote in message ... "Richard M" wrote in message oups.com... Hi all! I'm totally new to gardening and this group, so would appreciate any help you can give! I've looked through the archive, but can't find anything completely relevant. So, thanks in advance for any help you can give! I'd very much like to plant climbers of some sort on the front and back walls of my house (a north and a south facing wall). But, the property has a history of (1) subsidence owing to wisteria on the south-facing wall abstracting water from the soil causing movement to the property (London soil), and (2) damage to brickwork from ivy on the north-facing wall. Apparently, I am going to have to remove both of these climbers. On the north side of our house we have Boston Ivy, (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), it clings by suckers to the face of the brickwork. It doesn't do any damage I'm aware of, and all the maintenance it gets is once a year (soon, if the weather turns mild) I cut it off at the level of the top of the ground floor windows. Once cut, you can just pull it off, gently does it and you can get the whole length of it. It does spread all over the front of the house, and head for next doors if not cut back. It looks fantastic when the foliage turns a rich reddish brown in autumn, and birds love to roost in it through the summer, they usually disappear at a rate of knots when the front door is opened, the Mrs jumps out of her skin every time, she never learns. :-)) The only slight downside is in late autumn, after the red/brown display, the leaves fall off the leaf stalks, leaving the stalks sticking out like bristles and it looks really stupid until the stalks also fall off. HTH Steve Also a beautiful description of my Boston Ivy. I have already commented on the Wisteria but I might now add that the only damage an ivy will do is to already poor pointing and brickwork. If the wall is in good condition then an ivy will do no harm . |
#8
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Ivy / Safe climber
Thank you very much, everyone, for your thoughts and experiences. It
sounds very much like I need to do more investigating as to what the real source of the problem is. It had not occurred to me that the matter may have been oversimplified. In answer to your questions, the position (as I have been told it by varying structural professionals) is that there is some very minor subsidence to the south-facing wistera-clad front wall. This is said to be due to a nearby acacia tree drying out the soil (others have identified it as a rowan or a rabinia - I am no expert). But, as a result, I have been asked to remove all vegetation, namely acacia, wisteria and leylandia. From what you are saying, it sounds like the wisteria may be being blamed for the tree's activities. I obviously need to get this clarified. Any suggestions who may be an appropriate professional to do this? I am pleased the ivy on the south wall is probably okay. I shall get the bricks checked, just to be safe. I do very much like the sound of the Boston ivy, and I shall investigate it along with clematis, holboellia, honeysuckles, roses, and the other suggestions. They all sound very attractive! I had not realised there was so much choice! I am not going to get a chance to do anything until early February. Will that be a good time of year to do any planting.maintenance, if necessary? All the best, and thank you again for your thoughts, Richard |
#9
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Ivy / Safe climber
On 29/12/05 9:48 am, in article
, "Richard M" wrote: Thank you very much, everyone, for your thoughts and experiences. It sounds very much like I need to do more investigating as to what the real source of the problem is. It had not occurred to me that the matter may have been oversimplified. In answer to your questions, the position (as I have been told it by varying structural professionals) is that there is some very minor subsidence to the south-facing wistera-clad front wall. This is said to be due to a nearby acacia tree drying out the soil (others have identified it as a rowan or a rabinia - I am no expert). But, as a result, I have been asked to remove all vegetation, namely acacia, wisteria and leylandia. From what you are saying, it sounds like the wisteria may be being blamed for the tree's activities. I obviously need to get this clarified. Any suggestions who may be an appropriate professional to do this? Personally and admittedly without seeing it, I'm guessing the acacia if by that, you mean a mimosa. I really do doubt a wisteria could do THAT much damage at its roots. Certainly, this house had a very large, old mimosa tree on one corner that had to be taken down as its roots were becoming too large. I think I'd get a surveyor, your builder and a tree surgeon there together and get their joint and several opinions. At the very least you might get agreement on the cause of the problem and the way to tackle it, with everyone reading from the same script! To find out what the mystery tree is, try a Google image search on Rowan, Robinia pseudoacacia and Acacia or mimosa. -- Sacha www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove the weeds to email me) |
#10
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Ivy / Safe climber
Janet Baraclough wrote: The message .com from "Richard M" contains these words: Thank you very much, everyone, for your thoughts and experiences. It sounds very much like I need to do more investigating as to what the real source of the problem is. It had not occurred to me that the matter may have been oversimplified. In answer to your questions, the position (as I have been told it by varying structural professionals) is that there is some very minor subsidence to the south-facing wistera-clad front wall. This is said to be due to a nearby acacia tree drying out the soil (others have identified it as a rowan or a rabinia - I am no expert). But, as a result, I have been asked to remove all vegetation, namely acacia, wisteria and leylandia. From what you are saying, it sounds like the wisteria may be being blamed for the tree's activities. I obviously need to get this clarified. Any suggestions who may be an appropriate professional to do this? I think you need to speak to your buildings-insurance company and get their view on that. If they don't yet know about the subsidence, you're obliged to notify them; not to do so might invalidate your policy. They are almost certainly going to require a specialist report, and it will probably be cheaper in the long run to obtain one from a professional body acceptable to the insurer.(Rather than commission one yourself which doesn't satisfy them). The insurer is also likely to set some conditions on future plantings around, and on, the building. If it was mine, I'd want to keep that structure in full unobstructed view for at least a few years, rather than risk climbers covering up new signs of movement. The trees on your land may also affect neighbouring buildings. Which is another reason why you need a professional specialist report (for your own future protection). Don't rush out and chop the trees down before you have that report. In some circumstances where clay shrinkage due to tree roots has caused building movement, a specialist will recommend gradual reduction of the tree to avoid a sudden re-expansion of the clay putting more stress on the foundations. Janet Thank, everyone - that is all _really_ helpful advice. I've plainly got my work cut out for me!! I appreciate your time and thoughts. Thanks. All best wishes, Richard M |
#11
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Nobody's mentioned passiflora, commonly known as Passion Flower. This is a gentle soul, and has the advantage over clematis in being evergreen.
We planted an 18" sapling of this against a tatty hedge back in June, and it has grown to about 6 foot by 5 foot across, completely covering a large hole in the hedge. Never seen anything grow so fast, and need so little attention (apart from guiding its growth directions of course). It also has nice little white & purple flowers as an added bonus. |
#12
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Forgot to mention the foliage is quite similar to ivy ( although the S/O insists it's not! ) but it's any ivy-sized dark-green shiny leaf, and looks very attractive in a drab winter garden where much of everything else is looking a bit sad - choisiya excepted of course.
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