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#1
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
Hi,
I want to replace the lawn (mostly weeds and moss) in my front garden with a new layout consisting of low-maintenance shrubs and low conifers, areas with pebbles, etc. Should I dig out the old lawn entirely and put some of that perforated sheeting that stops weeds and new topsoil? Or is there another way? Any ideas welcome, I know nothing! Thanks O.C. |
#2
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
On 5 Jul 2006 04:17:35 -0700, "Old Codger"
wrote: Hi, I want to replace the lawn (mostly weeds and moss) in my front garden with a new layout consisting of low-maintenance shrubs and low conifers, areas with pebbles, etc. Should I dig out the old lawn entirely and put some of that perforated sheeting that stops weeds and new topsoil? Or is there another way? Any ideas welcome, I know nothing! Thanks O.C. Some suggestions: Cover with a light-impermeable barrier such as old carpet, cardboard packaging or black polythene, all weighted down to stop the wind blowing it away. Leave for a few months and the grass and weeds underneath will all be dead and ready for digging over, planting etc. Spray with glyphosate. Grass etc. will all be dead in a couple of weeks and ready for digging over, planting etc. Cover with light-impermeable horticultural fabric (keeps light out, suppresses weeds but lets water through). Cut holes for conifers and other shrubs. Put down pebbles etc where wanted and cover remainder with 5 cm minimum thickness of shredded bark mulch. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net |
#3
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
Chris Hogg wrote:
On 5 Jul 2006 04:17:35 -0700, "Old Codger" wrote: Hi, I want to replace the lawn (mostly weeds and moss) in my front garden with a new layout consisting of low-maintenance shrubs and low conifers, areas with pebbles, etc. Should I dig out the old lawn entirely and put some of that perforated sheeting that stops weeds and new topsoil? Or is there another way? Any ideas welcome, I know nothing! Thanks O.C. Some suggestions: Cover with a light-impermeable barrier such as old carpet, cardboard packaging or black polythene, all weighted down to stop the wind blowing it away. Leave for a few months and the grass and weeds underneath will all be dead and ready for digging over, planting etc. Spray with glyphosate. Grass etc. will all be dead in a couple of weeks and ready for digging over, planting etc. Cover with light-impermeable horticultural fabric (keeps light out, suppresses weeds but lets water through). Cut holes for conifers and other shrubs. Put down pebbles etc where wanted and cover remainder with 5 cm minimum thickness of shredded bark mulch. -- Chris E-mail: christopher[dot]hogg[at]virgin[dot]net Excellent! Thank you. I have looked up glyphosate and there appears to be some problem with it's retention in the soil. I want to plant shrubs etc after application, will this be a problem? All being OK I will try something like that and then, when the ground has been turned over, apply the horticultural fabric to prevent any future weed growth, perhaps a layer of topsoil on top will improve the appearance as well. Thanks for your help O.C. |
#4
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
Old Codger wrote: Chris Hogg wrote: On 5 Jul 2006 04:17:35 -0700, "Old Codger" wrote: I want to replace the lawn (mostly weeds and moss) in my front garden with a new layout consisting of low-maintenance shrubs and low conifers, areas with pebbles, etc. Should I dig out the old lawn entirely and put some of that perforated sheeting that stops weeds and new topsoil? Or is there another way? Any ideas welcome, I know nothing! Some suggestions: Cover with a light-impermeable barrier such as old carpet, cardboard packaging or black polythene, all weighted down to stop the wind blowing it away. Leave for a few months and the grass and weeds underneath will all be dead and ready for digging over, planting etc. Spray with glyphosate. Grass etc. will all be dead in a couple of weeks and ready for digging over, planting etc. Cover with light-impermeable horticultural fabric (keeps light out, suppresses weeds but lets water through). Cut holes for conifers and other shrubs. Put down pebbles etc where wanted and cover remainder with 5 cm minimum thickness of shredded bark mulch. Excellent! Thank you. I have looked up glyphosate and there appears to be some problem with it's retention in the soil. I want to plant shrubs etc after application, will this be a problem? All being OK I will try something like that and then, when the ground has been turned over, apply the horticultural fabric to prevent any future weed growth, perhaps a layer of topsoil on top will improve the appearance as well. Glyphosate isn't persistent as a herbicide in the soil, so no worries the it's deactivated by contact with clay particles. Better gardening practice, though, is to dig the whole patch over, turning the turf in: if you get it a spit (spade's depth) under, it'll die without any extra expense. Even if you kill it off with a herbicide, you'll still have to dig it in anyway. You can just stick shrubs in without preparation, but it's not a good idea: they appreciate a good bed just as much as other plants. If it isn't going to lead to drainage problems by creating a sink, you could strip the turf from your planned pebbly areas and dig that into the shrubbery too. That way, there'll be less subsidence on the plant-free areas, which will save work and expense later on. You'll also get a variation in levels, which nearly always looks better. You don't need an anti-weed membrane in shrub beds. An immature shrubbery looks pretty lame at first, so if you want to fill the bare patches with bulbs and things for the early years, the membrane will be a hindrance. -- Mike. |
#5
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
Mike Lyle wrote: Old Codger wrote: Chris Hogg wrote: On 5 Jul 2006 04:17:35 -0700, "Old Codger" wrote: I want to replace the lawn (mostly weeds and moss) in my front garden with a new layout consisting of low-maintenance shrubs and low conifers, areas with pebbles, etc. Should I dig out the old lawn entirely and put some of that perforated sheeting that stops weeds and new topsoil? Or is there another way? Any ideas welcome, I know nothing! Some suggestions: Cover with a light-impermeable barrier such as old carpet, cardboard packaging or black polythene, all weighted down to stop the wind blowing it away. Leave for a few months and the grass and weeds underneath will all be dead and ready for digging over, planting etc. Spray with glyphosate. Grass etc. will all be dead in a couple of weeks and ready for digging over, planting etc. Cover with light-impermeable horticultural fabric (keeps light out, suppresses weeds but lets water through). Cut holes for conifers and other shrubs. Put down pebbles etc where wanted and cover remainder with 5 cm minimum thickness of shredded bark mulch. Excellent! Thank you. I have looked up glyphosate and there appears to be some problem with it's retention in the soil. I want to plant shrubs etc after application, will this be a problem? All being OK I will try something like that and then, when the ground has been turned over, apply the horticultural fabric to prevent any future weed growth, perhaps a layer of topsoil on top will improve the appearance as well. Glyphosate isn't persistent as a herbicide in the soil, so no worries the it's deactivated by contact with clay particles. Better gardening practice, though, is to dig the whole patch over, turning the turf in: if you get it a spit (spade's depth) under, it'll die without any extra expense. Even if you kill it off with a herbicide, you'll still have to dig it in anyway. You can just stick shrubs in without preparation, but it's not a good idea: they appreciate a good bed just as much as other plants. If it isn't going to lead to drainage problems by creating a sink, you could strip the turf from your planned pebbly areas and dig that into the shrubbery too. That way, there'll be less subsidence on the plant-free areas, which will save work and expense later on. You'll also get a variation in levels, which nearly always looks better. You don't need an anti-weed membrane in shrub beds. An immature shrubbery looks pretty lame at first, so if you want to fill the bare patches with bulbs and things for the early years, the membrane will be a hindrance. -- Mike. Thanks, glyphosate went on at the weekend. O.C. |
#6
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
Old Codger wrote: Mike Lyle wrote: Old Codger wrote: Chris Hogg wrote: On 5 Jul 2006 04:17:35 -0700, "Old Codger" wrote: I want to replace the lawn (mostly weeds and moss) in my front garden with a new layout consisting of low-maintenance shrubs and low conifers, areas with pebbles, etc. Should I dig out the old lawn entirely and put some of that perforated sheeting that stops weeds and new topsoil? Or is there another way? Any ideas welcome, I know nothing! Some suggestions: Cover with a light-impermeable barrier such as old carpet, cardboard packaging or black polythene, all weighted down to stop the wind blowing it away. Leave for a few months and the grass and weeds underneath will all be dead and ready for digging over, planting etc. Spray with glyphosate. Grass etc. will all be dead in a couple of weeks and ready for digging over, planting etc. Cover with light-impermeable horticultural fabric (keeps light out, suppresses weeds but lets water through). Cut holes for conifers and other shrubs. Put down pebbles etc where wanted and cover remainder with 5 cm minimum thickness of shredded bark mulch. Excellent! Thank you. I have looked up glyphosate and there appears to be some problem with it's retention in the soil. I want to plant shrubs etc after application, will this be a problem? All being OK I will try something like that and then, when the ground has been turned over, apply the horticultural fabric to prevent any future weed growth, perhaps a layer of topsoil on top will improve the appearance as well. Glyphosate isn't persistent as a herbicide in the soil, so no worries the it's deactivated by contact with clay particles. Better gardening practice, though, is to dig the whole patch over, turning the turf in: if you get it a spit (spade's depth) under, it'll die without any extra expense. Even if you kill it off with a herbicide, you'll still have to dig it in anyway. You can just stick shrubs in without preparation, but it's not a good idea: they appreciate a good bed just as much as other plants. If it isn't going to lead to drainage problems by creating a sink, you could strip the turf from your planned pebbly areas and dig that into the shrubbery too. That way, there'll be less subsidence on the plant-free areas, which will save work and expense later on. You'll also get a variation in levels, which nearly always looks better. You don't need an anti-weed membrane in shrub beds. An immature shrubbery looks pretty lame at first, so if you want to fill the bare patches with bulbs and things for the early years, the membrane will be a hindrance. -- Mike. Thanks, glyphosate went on at the weekend. O.C. Well, it's been down for 10 days now and the grass is still looking good! |
#7
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Replacing Old Lawn - Best Way To Do It?
Old Codger wrote: Old Codger wrote: [...] Thanks, glyphosate went on at the weekend. O.C. Well, it's been down for 10 days now and the grass is still looking good! It's early days yet: even properly applied, it can take a few weeks. It doesn't so much "poison" plants as upset their growth-hormone balance, so the dry weather could be slowing down the effect by making the plants go slightly dormant -- but there are people here who know more about it than I've ever forgotten. I did suggest good old-fashioned spade work, though! -- Mike. |
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