Hello urg

I've been lurking here for a week or so now, and as a result have
probably doubled my meagre knowledge of gardening. I'd no intention of
posting so soon (for fear of asking a dumb, or frequently-asked,
question) but as you all seem to be so polite, I thought I'd chance it!

A few days ago I planted a Sorbus Joseph Rock - about 8' tall, with a 1"
thick trunk. I attempted to follow the planting instructions to the
letter, but unfortunately managed to break the stake whilst hammering it
into the ground (heavy clay). So I just went ahead and planted it un-
staked.

I could fairly easily finish the job by hammering in a stake at an angle
(to avoid the root ball), but this is going to look unsightly. My
question is, is this really necessary anyway? According to my one-and-
only gardening book (The RHS Gardening Manual): "If you are planting a
tree in an exposed or very windy site, it is adviseable to stake it".
It's a town garden, and certainly not an especially windy one.
However, in all the gardening programs I've seen on TV, trees are always
staked when planted, and the question of necessity has never even been
raised.

I would be particularly interested to hear from anyone (if there is
anyone!) who has planted trees unstaked, so I could benefit from their
experience. However, all contributions would be welcomed.

Many thanks

Paul

'Paul',

These quite informative and well illustrated sites will hopefully help
you with your deliberations.

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1141.html

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/c...ing_trees.html

I find that it is definitely best to provide support until the tree has
formed a secure root base (six years or more depending on its canopy)
and is able to withstand quite severe winds.

Good luck.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.




"Paul" wrote in message
news
Hello urg

I've been lurking here for a week or so now, and as a result have
probably doubled my meagre knowledge of gardening. I'd no intention
of
posting so soon (for fear of asking a dumb, or frequently-asked,
question) but as you all seem to be so polite, I thought I'd chance
it!

A few days ago I planted a Sorbus Joseph Rock - about 8' tall, with a
1"
thick trunk. I attempted to follow the planting instructions to the
letter, but unfortunately managed to break the stake whilst hammering
it
into the ground (heavy clay). So I just went ahead and planted it un-
staked.

I could fairly easily finish the job by hammering in a stake at an
angle
(to avoid the root ball), but this is going to look unsightly. My
question is, is this really necessary anyway? According to my
one-and-
only gardening book (The RHS Gardening Manual): "If you are planting a
tree in an exposed or very windy site, it is adviseable to stake it".
It's a town garden, and certainly not an especially windy one.
However, in all the gardening programs I've seen on TV, trees are
always
staked when planted, and the question of necessity has never even been
raised.

I would be particularly interested to hear from anyone (if there is
anyone!) who has planted trees unstaked, so I could benefit from their
experience. However, all contributions would be welcomed.

Many thanks

Paul

The message
from Paul contains these words:

A few days ago I planted a Sorbus Joseph Rock - about 8' tall, with a 1"
thick trunk. I attempted to follow the planting instructions to the
letter, but unfortunately managed to break the stake whilst hammering it
into the ground (heavy clay). So I just went ahead and planted it un-
staked.
(snip)

I would be particularly interested to hear from anyone (if there is
anyone!) who has planted trees unstaked, so I could benefit from their
experience.

Yes, it is quite possible and I have done it often, on a very windy
exposed site. (Although those trees were planted out much shorter than
your rowan and were on their own roots, not grafted). I much prefer no
staking or low staking, because some natural movement of the trunk
stimulates strong development. What's essential, is to make sure the
roots are not loosened; that a graft doesn't split under stress, and
that the trunk doesn't waggle a loose hole in the earth around it (where
water could collect and rot it). For an ungrafted tree a couple of heavy
stones above the roots, to steady it, will do the job. They only need to
be there for a year or two.

If your tree is grafted (look for a thickened "join" or scar slightly
above ground level) then you should protect the union by giving the tree
a low diagonal stake, fixed with a proper adjustable tree tie, about one
foot above ground level. You can buy such ties singly in good garden
centres. Adjust the fit at the end of each summer and remove it after
about two years.

Janet.

The message
from Paul contains these words:

Hello urg

A few days ago I planted a Sorbus Joseph Rock - about 8' tall, with a 1"
thick trunk. I attempted to follow the planting instructions to the
letter, but unfortunately managed to break the stake whilst hammering it
into the ground (heavy clay). So I just went ahead and planted it un-
staked.

I could fairly easily finish the job by hammering in a stake at an angle
(to avoid the root ball), but this is going to look unsightly. My
question is, is this really necessary anyway? According to my one-and-
only gardening book (The RHS Gardening Manual): "If you are planting a
tree in an exposed or very windy site, it is adviseable to stake it".
It's a town garden, and certainly not an especially windy one.
However, in all the gardening programs I've seen on TV, trees are always
staked when planted, and the question of necessity has never even been
raised.

Certainly a tree that tall will need staking. There's a lot of
top-growth for the roots to support and a lot for the wind to get hold
of.

Young whips are often fine unstaked if they're only 2' - 3' tall.

I think in general a tree as tall as yours needs careful pampering for
the first year or two, including some careful watering too. They tend to
be more difficult to establish than younger trees.

Janet G

Many thanks for the response to my question.

To ED: Thanks in particular for the links, which provided specific - if
slightly conflicting! - advice.

ie Ohio SU states: "Small trees up to 2 inches in diameter rarely
require staking" - which implies that I probably don't need a stake;
whereas NC SU states: "A general rule of thumb is to provide support for
....container and BB trees over 6 foot or 1 inch or more in trunk
diameter" - which implies that I probably do need a stake!

However, as my tree is grafted, I think I'll be following JB's advice,
and use a low diagonal stake. This won't look too unsightly, and will
have the additional advantage that I'll be able to use the remnants of
the stake I managed to break whilst doing the original planting - so
I'll be able to save myself another 4 quid!

Thanks again

Regards

Paul

"Paul" wrote in message
...
However, as my tree is grafted, I think I'll be following JB's advice,
and use a low diagonal stake. This won't look too unsightly, and will
have the additional advantage that I'll be able to use the remnants of
the stake I managed to break whilst doing the original planting - so
I'll be able to save myself another 4 quid!

That would be my advice - we don't stake trees as high as we used to and as
a result they develop stronger stems. You do need to be careful tho if you
get a tree on a long thin stem with a great lollipop head on it.
(a) You shouldn't buy a tree like that
(b) No decent nurseryman would grow a tree like that.
Did that stake *really* cost 4 quid?
It's worth looking in yellow pages for small country sawmills for that sort
of thing. They are getting more common now portable bandmills are quite
cheap and estates are trying to add value to their timber rather than
selling round logs for peanuts as they used to.

Rod

Did that stake *really* cost 4 quid?

3.99 to be precise! It did seem a bit steep at the time, but I was doing
a "one-stop-shop", and so I just paid up.

It's worth looking in yellow pages for small country sawmills for that sort
of thing. They are getting more common now portable bandmills are quite
cheap and estates are trying to add value to their timber rather than
selling round logs for peanuts as they used to.

I'll bear that in mind for future ref.

Thanks for the advice,

Regards

Paul