"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 15, 9:21 am, Jake Nospam@invalid wrote:
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 09:03:53 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:







On Apr 14, 9:39 am, Mark Baigent Mark.Baigent.
wrote:
Hi all

Absolute novice here.

This bit snipped
Mark Baigent

You need a good weed killer. Brambles are hard to kill. Cut it all
down and when you get fresh new growth (prob.in June) spray with
"Pastor".
This is the best weedkiller I know for brambles. It takes about
three weeks to totally kill brambles.
You need to hit the fresh growth in non drought conditions (but no
rain.)
You might need to hit ones that appear later once more.
Cut all the dead down again. If possible,set it on fire on site,
(kills weed seeds).
Best to rotovate after, damned hard work to dig it by hand with all
the roots etc.
You will need to go to agricutural supplier to get Pastor.
Pastor doesn't kill grass, just everthing else.
Do NOTspray on a windy day unless you hate your nieghbours.
Read the instructions esp. about what strength for what weeds & safety
precautions..

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).

Jake- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I always give the best way to tackle a job. Pastor is the best way.
And don't talk to me about "proffesionals". Work creation that's all
it is.

So where can anyone buy this stuff?

Alan

On 15/04/2011 13:46, SBenney wrote:
Hi
I am currently developing a new website that aims to provide seasonal
advice on what to do in the garden each month. I would appreciate it if
any forum readers would visit the site and comment on the content and
design. Any feedback is welcome - good or bad.

'Seasonal Gardening - Guidance& advice for UK Gardeners'
(http://www.seasonalgardening.co.uk)

I am currently adding photographs of plants in season from UK gardens as
I visit them this year. Also from my own and friends gardens and the
local allotment. The most recent garden I visited was RHS Hyde Hall in
Essex, which had a great display of spring bulbs and hellebores plus the
most magnificent Cornas Mas in flower. At the end of this month I plan
to visit RHS Harlow Carr - so I will be adding many more pictures from
there.


It seems like a good site to me. I didn't have any problems with left or
right click as someone else mentioned. I like the layout. I also like
the fact the site is usable and can be navigated easily. A big plus is
that I didn't need to enable JavaScript either to use the site.
Good job well done. :-)

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

Jeff Layman wrote:

On 15/04/2011 19:09, Donnie wrote:
SBenney wrote:


Hi
I am currently developing a new website that aims to provide
seasonal advice on what to do in the garden each month. I would
appreciate it if any forum readers would visit the site and
comment on the content and design. Any feedback is welcome - good
or bad.

'Seasonal Gardening - Guidance& advice for UK Gardeners'
(http://www.seasonalgardening.co.uk)

I am currently adding photographs of plants in season from UK
gardens as I visit them this year. Also from my own and friends
gardens and the local allotment. The most recent garden I visited
was RHS Hyde Hall in Essex, which had a great display of spring
bulbs and hellebores plus the most magnificent Cornas Mas in
flower. At the end of this month I plan to visit RHS Harlow Carr
- so I will be adding many more pictures from there.

Many Thanks

Steve

You've disabled the right click for some reason? you worried that
someones going to steal all your pictures? I mean the sites
completely locked down you may want to read
http://blogs.sitepoint.com/dont-disable-right-click/

Now, the only reason I noticed is because the left click to select a
line of text I was going to quote for your feedback cannot be
selected either.

I have no problem copying any image or text on the site. What
browser are you using? I'm using FF 3.6.16.

ah now thats interesting, ive been trying google chrome for the last 2
weeks keeping FF as a backup in case i find any glitches, perhaps this
is one.

Not that its hard to get round for someone if they did want to nick
images etc through simply viewing the source anyway :-)

--
Donnie
"**** the world, it's time to fight back"

Lambretta Series 2 186cc "The Shitter"
Lambretta LD 175cc "The Chopper"
Honda CB500R "Look out, Donnie's about!"

On Apr 15, 9:21*pm, "alan.holmes" wrote:
"harry" wrote in message

...
On Apr 15, 9:21 am, Jake Nospam@invalid wrote:





On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 09:03:53 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Apr 14, 9:39 am, Mark Baigent Mark.Baigent.
wrote:
Hi all

Absolute novice here.

This bit snipped
Mark Baigent

You need a good weed killer. Brambles are hard to kill. Cut it all
down and when you get fresh new growth (prob.in June) spray with
"Pastor".
This is the best weedkiller I know for brambles. It takes about
three weeks to totally kill brambles.
You need to hit the fresh growth in non drought conditions (but no
rain.)
You might need to hit ones that appear later once more.
Cut all the dead down again. If possible,set it on fire on site,
(kills weed seeds).
Best to rotovate after, damned hard work to dig it by hand with all
the roots etc.
You will need to go to agricutural supplier to get Pastor.
Pastor doesn't kill grass, just everthing else.
Do NOTspray on a windy day unless you hate your nieghbours.
Read the instructions esp. about what strength for what weeds & safety
precautions..

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).

Jake- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
I always give the best way to tackle a job. Pastor is the best way.

And don't talk to me about "proffesionals". *Work creation that's all
it is.

So where can anyone buy this stuff?

Alan- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Available most places. Useless, but always at inflated prices.

On Apr 15, 5:43*pm, Jake Nospam@invalid wrote:
On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 08:34:04 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:





On Apr 15, 9:21 am, Jake Nospam@invalid wrote:
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 09:03:53 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Apr 14, 9:39 am, Mark Baigent Mark.Baigent.
wrote:
Hi all

Absolute novice here.

This bit snipped
Mark Baigent

You need a good weed killer. Brambles are hard to kill. Cut it all
down and when you get fresh new growth (prob.in June) spray with
"Pastor".
This is the best weedkiller I know for brambles. It takes about
three weeks to totally kill brambles.
You need to hit the fresh growth in non drought conditions (but no
rain.)
You might need to hit ones that appear later once more.
Cut all the dead down again. If possible,set it on fire on site,
(kills weed seeds).
Best to rotovate after, damned hard work to dig it by hand with all
the roots etc.
You will need to go to agricutural supplier to get Pastor.
Pastor doesn't kill grass, just everthing else.
Do NOTspray on a windy day unless you hate your nieghbours.
Read the instructions esp. about what strength for what weeds & safety
precautions..

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).

Jake- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I always give the best way to tackle a job. Pastor is the best way.
And don't talk to me about "proffesionals". *Work creation that's all
it is.

The "best way" as you call it should mean the "best way" in all the
circumstances. It's also interesting that Dow (who market Pastor) say
it's for nettles, docks and thistles. They have another product
(Timbrell) for brambles though, again, that's for agricultural use. I
doubt that Dow would bother to market Timbrell if Pastor was the best
product for the job.

All I'm seeing from your advice here and in the other bracken thread
is a sufficient supply of what the nanny Eurocrats will call
"anectodal evicence" of illegal selling and use of herbicides. That
"anecdotal evidence" could make the difference between product
approval and product withdrawal.

Meanwhile Mark would be far better advised to follow the advice of the
RHS athttp://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=256which
is, more or less, what the sensible posters here are suggesting.

Jake- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Getting very shrill aren't we?
Everything you need to know is in a booklet on the container. All you
need to be able to do is read.
Non-readers won't understand this post half wit.

"Sacha" wrote in message
...
On 2011-04-14 09:39:09 +0100, Mark Baigent
said:


Hi all

Absolute novice here.

At the tender age of 50yrs I finally decided to try gardening and do
something with my garden.

My garden is 150ft long by 22ft wide. About 40ft of the end of my garden
is brambles and stinging nettles. 18 years ago I promised my wife that I
would sort it out.

Today I started (must not rush things) by using a borrowed hedge trimmer
to cut all the jungle down to earth level, I need to level a mound of
earth to make a sitting area under a big oak tree. I guess that I will
turf it as well.

But do I need to do anything to stop all the nettles, brambles etc
coming back up?

To be honest it looks like a huge task which has held me back from
starting before.

All the best
Mark

Don't strim or cut any more! After this long, all those weeds will have a
good root system going. Use SBK brush killer for the brambles and any
proprietary weed killer recommended, for the nettles. Keep doing this
until they're killed off. One spray is unlikely to do that in one season,
so keep doing it every time there are signs of new growth emerging. You
can start digging over and levelling an area of the garden for your seats,
if you can get a fork and spade into the ground where all those roots have
been. Putting down a weed-suppressing membrane is of no use at all until
the worst of the brambles are killed off. They're far too vigorous to be
controlled by plastic! So to sum up, this year, concentrate on killing
off the weeds as they emerge and keep on and on doing it. Next year, spray
the weeds again and if they've really gone, think about digging over the
plot and turfing, paving or laying gravel. If possible, make one small
area for sitting in. Plant up a few pots with some summer flowers to give
your wife some colour. However, as this is about one third of your garden
altogether, is the other area a place where you could make somewhere for a
garden seat and table?
--
Sacha
South Devon



""Putting down a weed-suppressing membrane is of no use at all until the
worst of the
brambles are killed off. They're far too vigorous to be controlled by
plastic! ""

Perhaps the OP would like to visit our gardens and witness a plastic
weed-suppressing membrane in place in our gravel gardens. Put there a few
years ago by the gardener of the house who has over 50 years experience of
'pretty gardening' and whose gardens have been open to the public.

Mike
--

....................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
....................................

"Sgt Pepper" wrote in
:

Well done and thanks for a new additon to gardeners' resources on the
web.

I'm mainly interested in veggies and think a useful addition would be
to give the following info about vegetables:-

What kind of soil they are suited to
Spacing between plants/rows
Typical problems including probs with germination or pests

It's a big job, but well done for what you've done so far.

Roy

"SBenney" wrote in message
...

Hi
I am currently developing a new website that aims to provide seasonal
advice on what to do in the garden each month. I would appreciate it
if any forum readers would visit the site and comment on the content
and design. Any feedback is welcome - good or bad.

'Seasonal Gardening - Guidance & advice for UK Gardeners'
(http://www.seasonalgardening.co.uk)

I am currently adding photographs of plants in season from UK gardens
as I visit them this year. Also from my own and friends gardens and
the local allotment. The most recent garden I visited was RHS Hyde
Hall in Essex, which had a great display of spring bulbs and
hellebores plus the most magnificent Cornas Mas in flower. At the end
of this month I plan to visit RHS Harlow Carr - so I will be adding
many more pictures from there.

Many Thanks

Steve




--
SBenney



I agree.
Please don't top post though.

Baz

Hi all

Original poster here...

Thank you for a ton of useful info, delivered in such a spirited way :-)

I have an outline of a plan now.

Another reason that I want to sort the area out is that I plan to use the area for greenwood working and will be using a pole lathe, shave horse and chopping blocks there.

I could not see how to add a photo so here is a link to the garden area

http://www.markbaigent.co.uk/temp/garden_before.jpg

All the best
Mark

On Apr 16, 10:45*am, Janet wrote:
In article 9bbda961-cc9e-499f-b37c-e48a81788b28
@bl1g2000vbb.googlegroups.com, says...

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own
words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).
Everything you need to know is in a booklet on the container. All you
need to be able to do is read.

*Right, let's read what its manufacturer says about Pastor.

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Weed-Kille...trol-Weeds-in-
Grass/For-Paddocks/Pastor-2LT/prod_28.html

Pastor 2LT
Controls thistles, nettles and docks in new and established grass

(no mention of brambles)

Active ingredient: 50g/lt clopyralid, 75g/lt fluroxypyr and 100g/lt
triclopyr

"IMPORTANT NOTICE

There are legal responsibilities covering the storage and use of
professional use pesticides featured on this website. These
responsibilities are covered by The Food and Environment Protection Act
1985 (FEPA) and Control of Pesticide Regulations 1986 (COPR). When placing
an order with us, you must confirm that you have read, understand and will
comply with all FEPA and COPR regulations"

Here's their safety data:

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Pr0gr33n/i...2ltr-material-
safety-data-sheet.pdf

"Flammable. Irritating to respiratory system and skin. Risk of serious
damage to eyes. May cause sensitization by skin contact. Toxic to
aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic
environment. Harmful: may cause lung damage if swallowed. Vapours may
cause drowsiness and dizziness.

Hazardous Combustion Products
During a fire, smoke may contain the original material in addition to
combustion products of varying composition which may be toxic and/ or
irritating."

* *So much for Harry's recommendation to burn the dead brambles.
Thinking of shredding/composting instead?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clopyralid

Clopyralid is notorious for its ability to persist in dead plants and
compost, and has accumulated to phytotoxic levels in finished compost in a
few highly publicized cases. In Seattle, Washington, clopyralid was widely
used for weed control in lawns until prohibited in 1999. There, a city-
mandated curbside grass clipping collection and composting program
produced compost with measurable levels of clopyralid. Subsequently,
DowAgro, the manufacturer of clopyralid, voluntarily deregistered it for
lawn uses."

* * * *Janet.

I don't care about your drivel. It works on brambles. I have done it.
Clearly you haven't.
Any questions?

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 10:45 am, Janet wrote:
In article 9bbda961-cc9e-499f-b37c-e48a81788b28
@bl1g2000vbb.googlegroups.com, says...

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own
words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).
Everything you need to know is in a booklet on the container. All you
need to be able to do is read.

Right, let's read what its manufacturer says about Pastor.

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Weed-Kille...trol-Weeds-in-
Grass/For-Paddocks/Pastor-2LT/prod_28.html

Pastor 2LT
Controls thistles, nettles and docks in new and established grass

(no mention of brambles)

Active ingredient: 50g/lt clopyralid, 75g/lt fluroxypyr and 100g/lt
triclopyr

"IMPORTANT NOTICE

There are legal responsibilities covering the storage and use of
professional use pesticides featured on this website. These
responsibilities are covered by The Food and Environment Protection Act
1985 (FEPA) and Control of Pesticide Regulations 1986 (COPR). When placing
an order with us, you must confirm that you have read, understand and will
comply with all FEPA and COPR regulations"

Here's their safety data:

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Pr0gr33n/i...2ltr-material-
safety-data-sheet.pdf

"Flammable. Irritating to respiratory system and skin. Risk of serious
damage to eyes. May cause sensitization by skin contact. Toxic to
aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic
environment. Harmful: may cause lung damage if swallowed. Vapours may
cause drowsiness and dizziness.

Hazardous Combustion Products
During a fire, smoke may contain the original material in addition to
combustion products of varying composition which may be toxic and/ or
irritating."

So much for Harry's recommendation to burn the dead brambles.
Thinking of shredding/composting instead?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clopyralid

Clopyralid is notorious for its ability to persist in dead plants and
compost, and has accumulated to phytotoxic levels in finished compost in a
few highly publicized cases. In Seattle, Washington, clopyralid was widely
used for weed control in lawns until prohibited in 1999. There, a city-
mandated curbside grass clipping collection and composting program
produced compost with measurable levels of clopyralid. Subsequently,
DowAgro, the manufacturer of clopyralid, voluntarily deregistered it for
lawn uses."

Janet.

I don't care about your drivel. It works on brambles. I have done it.
Clearly you haven't.
Any questions?

.................................................. ................................
You're like me Harry. "Been there. Done that. Got the Tee Shirt"

We have for years suppressed weeds on an area with a membrane and stones!!!!

What do we know? I know sod all, but SWMBO has OVER 50 years of pretty
gardening.

As a matter of interest, what experience in terms of years and actually
DOING IT, HANDS GETTING DIRTY have other urglers got?

Another question which won't be answered ;-))

:-))

Kindest possible regards

Mike


--

....................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
....................................

On Apr 16, 7:29*pm, "'Mike'" wrote:
"harry" wrote in message

...
On Apr 16, 10:45 am, Janet wrote:





In article 9bbda961-cc9e-499f-b37c-e48a81788b28
@bl1g2000vbb.googlegroups.com, says...

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own
words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).
Everything you need to know is in a booklet on the container. All you
need to be able to do is read.

Right, let's read what its manufacturer says about Pastor.

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Weed-Kille...trol-Weeds-in-
Grass/For-Paddocks/Pastor-2LT/prod_28.html

Pastor 2LT
Controls thistles, nettles and docks in new and established grass

(no mention of brambles)

Active ingredient: 50g/lt clopyralid, 75g/lt fluroxypyr and 100g/lt
triclopyr

"IMPORTANT NOTICE

There are legal responsibilities covering the storage and use of
professional use pesticides featured on this website. These
responsibilities are covered by The Food and Environment Protection Act
1985 (FEPA) and Control of Pesticide Regulations 1986 (COPR). When placing
an order with us, you must confirm that you have read, understand and will
comply with all FEPA and COPR regulations"

Here's their safety data:

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Pr0gr33n/i...2ltr-material-
safety-data-sheet.pdf

"Flammable. Irritating to respiratory system and skin. Risk of serious
damage to eyes. May cause sensitization by skin contact. Toxic to
aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic
environment. Harmful: may cause lung damage if swallowed. Vapours may
cause drowsiness and dizziness.

Hazardous Combustion Products
During a fire, smoke may contain the original material in addition to
combustion products of varying composition which may be toxic and/ or
irritating."

So much for Harry's recommendation to burn the dead brambles.
Thinking of shredding/composting instead?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clopyralid

Clopyralid is notorious for its ability to persist in dead plants and
compost, and has accumulated to phytotoxic levels in finished compost in a
few highly publicized cases. In Seattle, Washington, clopyralid was widely
used for weed control in lawns until prohibited in 1999. There, a city-
mandated curbside grass clipping collection and composting program
produced compost with measurable levels of clopyralid. Subsequently,
DowAgro, the manufacturer of clopyralid, voluntarily deregistered it for
lawn uses."

Janet.

I don't care about your drivel. It works on brambles. I have done it.
Clearly you haven't.
Any questions?

.................................................. ..........................*......
You're like me Harry. "Been there. Done that. Got the Tee Shirt"

We have for years suppressed weeds on an area with a membrane and stones!!!!

What do we know? I know sod all, but SWMBO has OVER 50 years of pretty
gardening.

As a matter of interest, what experience in terms of years and actually
DOING IT, HANDS GETTING DIRTY have other urglers got?

Another question which won't be answered ;-))

:-))

Kindest possible regards

Mike

--

...................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
...................................- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well membranes work on some weeds. I find on stuff like docks,
thistles and brambles the shoots grow up under themebrane and
sometimes poke holes in it.

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 16, 7:29 pm, "'Mike'" wrote:
"harry" wrote in message

...
On Apr 16, 10:45 am, Janet wrote:





In article 9bbda961-cc9e-499f-b37c-e48a81788b28
@bl1g2000vbb.googlegroups.com, says...

Here we go again. Harry, please realise that the OP, in his own
words,
is an "absolute novice". Pastor is approved as an agricultural
herbicide for professional use only. IT IS NOT FOR AMATEUR USE IN
GARDENS. (I'm deliberately shouting!).
Everything you need to know is in a booklet on the container. All you
need to be able to do is read.

Right, let's read what its manufacturer says about Pastor.

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Weed-Kille...trol-Weeds-in-
Grass/For-Paddocks/Pastor-2LT/prod_28.html

Pastor 2LT
Controls thistles, nettles and docks in new and established grass

(no mention of brambles)

Active ingredient: 50g/lt clopyralid, 75g/lt fluroxypyr and 100g/lt
triclopyr

"IMPORTANT NOTICE

There are legal responsibilities covering the storage and use of
professional use pesticides featured on this website. These
responsibilities are covered by The Food and Environment Protection Act
1985 (FEPA) and Control of Pesticide Regulations 1986 (COPR). When
placing
an order with us, you must confirm that you have read, understand and
will
comply with all FEPA and COPR regulations"

Here's their safety data:

http://www.progreen.co.uk/Pr0gr33n/i...2ltr-material-
safety-data-sheet.pdf

"Flammable. Irritating to respiratory system and skin. Risk of serious
damage to eyes. May cause sensitization by skin contact. Toxic to
aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic
environment. Harmful: may cause lung damage if swallowed. Vapours may
cause drowsiness and dizziness.

Hazardous Combustion Products
During a fire, smoke may contain the original material in addition to
combustion products of varying composition which may be toxic and/ or
irritating."

So much for Harry's recommendation to burn the dead brambles.
Thinking of shredding/composting instead?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clopyralid

Clopyralid is notorious for its ability to persist in dead plants and
compost, and has accumulated to phytotoxic levels in finished compost in
a
few highly publicized cases. In Seattle, Washington, clopyralid was
widely
used for weed control in lawns until prohibited in 1999. There, a city-
mandated curbside grass clipping collection and composting program
produced compost with measurable levels of clopyralid. Subsequently,
DowAgro, the manufacturer of clopyralid, voluntarily deregistered it for
lawn uses."

Janet.

I don't care about your drivel. It works on brambles. I have done it.
Clearly you haven't.
Any questions?

.................................................. .........................*......
You're like me Harry. "Been there. Done that. Got the Tee Shirt"

We have for years suppressed weeds on an area with a membrane and
stones!!!!

What do we know? I know sod all, but SWMBO has OVER 50 years of pretty
gardening.

As a matter of interest, what experience in terms of years and actually
DOING IT, HANDS GETTING DIRTY have other urglers got?

Another question which won't be answered ;-))

:-))

Kindest possible regards

Mike

--

...................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
...................................- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well membranes work on some weeds. I find on stuff like docks,
thistles and brambles the shoots grow up under themebrane and
sometimes poke holes in it.
.................................................. ........................................

Not had that problem. Do you use a cheap thin membrane? Where we have
planted through the membrane, we have found it tough to cut a cross or
remove and area for planting. We don't do 'cheap and skimp' in our
household.

Never had any problem and would and do highly recommend it.

Mike


--

....................................
Don't take life too seriously, you'll never get out alive
....................................

A quick update,

A friend and I have been tackling the plot with mattocks and rakes, which is going surprisingly well, another day or two should see it finished.

I have paced the plot and it is 90 sq meters. I am unsure which is best for the grass, seeds or turf, any opinions?


ATB
Mark

Seed. Grass is unlikely to take well beneath that oak tree, and seed is cheaper, so it won't cost you as much to find out.

Hi Sasha

Sorry, I'm listening properly now.

This will be part "chillin" area and part working area. Our plan is evolving because of the advice here.

I will put a few slabs down for the working area just to protect the bowl horse
Hand carved from wood: Bowl horse
My wife has suggested a compost area directly under the Oak, and I can also use that area as a log store.

I'd like to have grass and maybe some wild flowers (meadow type) around the edge furthest from the tree (we are taking a third off the crown of the tree )
And grass the rest, not lawn but rough grass.
What do you think about the wild flowers?

The area that we are working on has plenty of shade and a good view across fields, the rest of the garden has no real shade.... yet



Two pleases suggests passion and knowledge :-)
And of course Baz said the same.
So I will listen to your advice, weed killer this year and grass next year.

Having been working the plot it seems that the "weeds" are mainly nettles and a few brambles. Actually I like nettles for cordage, tea and soup but not all over my garden.

Could I ask, again, for recommendations for weedkiller for my weeds?
Still SBK Brushwood Killer?
Also a good general purpose garden, pet safe, weedkiller.

Thanks for the advice.

Best wishes
Mark