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Old 02-06-2015, 10:53 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit and noticed among other vegetables, they were selling small
trays of carrotts, each with 6-8 clumps of quite tall
seedlings. Instructions of the tray said palnt out in frost
free soil! No indication of whether you should break up the
clumps or of distance.

I was always lead to belive that transplanting of root
vegetables like carrots/parsnips/swedes etc was a no no, as
they roots would split or not form properly.

Is this true? If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?


--
Roger T

700 ft up in Mid-Wales
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:04 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots


"Roger Tonkin" wrote in message
...
Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit and noticed among other vegetables, they were selling small
trays of carrotts, each with 6-8 clumps of quite tall
seedlings. Instructions of the tray said palnt out in frost
free soil! No indication of whether you should break up the
clumps or of distance.

I was always lead to belive that transplanting of root
vegetables like carrots/parsnips/swedes etc was a no no, as
they roots would split or not form properly.

Is this true? If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?


It is not true. I have grown beetroot successfully in cells in the
greenhouse for years before planting outside and had a good
crop every year. I shall be planting out in a weeks time here in
the far north, when we will probably be free of frost (although
this year there is no certainty !!!). It is the only way that we can
get a long enough growing season.

Phil
40 miles N. of Inverness


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Old 03-06-2015, 09:51 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

On 03/06/2015 00:04, philgurr wrote:
"Roger Tonkin" wrote in message
...
Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit and noticed among other vegetables, they were selling small
trays of carrotts, each with 6-8 clumps of quite tall
seedlings. Instructions of the tray said palnt out in frost
free soil! No indication of whether you should break up the
clumps or of distance.

I was always lead to belive that transplanting of root
vegetables like carrots/parsnips/swedes etc was a no no, as
they roots would split or not form properly.

Is this true? If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?


It is not true. I have grown beetroot successfully in cells in the
greenhouse for years before planting outside and had a good
crop every year. I shall be planting out in a weeks time here in
the far north, when we will probably be free of frost (although
this year there is no certainty !!!). It is the only way that we can
get a long enough growing season.

Phil
40 miles N. of Inverness


There is a difference between crops like Beetroot and Swedes, and long
rooted veg like Carrots and Parsnips.
The first thing the latter do is to send down their tap root, if it gets
bent or damaged then the resulting plant will have a lumpy root when lifted.
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Old 03-06-2015, 09:59 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

In article ,
David Hill wrote:
On 03/06/2015 00:04, philgurr wrote:
"Roger Tonkin" wrote in message
...
Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit and noticed among other vegetables, they were selling small
trays of carrotts, each with 6-8 clumps of quite tall
seedlings. Instructions of the tray said palnt out in frost
free soil! No indication of whether you should break up the
clumps or of distance.

I was always lead to belive that transplanting of root
vegetables like carrots/parsnips/swedes etc was a no no, as
they roots would split or not form properly.

Is this true? If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?


It is not true. I have grown beetroot successfully in cells in the
greenhouse for years before planting outside and had a good
crop every year. I shall be planting out in a weeks time here in
the far north, when we will probably be free of frost (although
this year there is no certainty !!!). It is the only way that we can
get a long enough growing season.

There is a difference between crops like Beetroot and Swedes, and long
rooted veg like Carrots and Parsnips.
The first thing the latter do is to send down their tap root, if it gets
bent or damaged then the resulting plant will have a lumpy root when lifted.


And even more important difference is whether they are Umbelliferae;
none of them like root disturbance, and some really hate it. I do
transplant some of them (e.g. parsley), but there's a high loss rate.
Cruciferae tend to be a lot more tolerant of root disturbance.

So, it's not likely to work for carrots and parsnips on two grounds,
and it REALLY doesn't work for salsify and scorzonera (even though
they are Compositae, which usually transplant), for the reasons you
give, redoubled in spades and with icing on top.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
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Old 06-06-2015, 07:52 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

Nick Maclaren wrote:

snipped
So, it's not likely to work for carrots and parsnips on two grounds,
and it REALLY doesn't work for salsify and scorzonera (even though
they are Compositae, which usually transplant), for the reasons you
give, redoubled in spades and with icing on top.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Every spring I start my parsnips in tubes made of newspaper filled with
good seed compost. Two seeds in each tube and pinch out one before
planting out when the plant shows two leaves. I agree with an earlier
posting you need to get them in the ground before the tap root gets to
the bottomof the tube.

I do parsnips this way as they are very long to germinate and seeds
planted in the "wild" often get lost and need thinning out and this
method works well.

I only do this with parnips among the root crops. I've never tried
carrotts and inview of the number of carrotts you would need to plant
out it would be a labour similar to that of the ancient Sisyphus.

Peter
--
It is necessary for the good man to do nothing for evil to triumph.

Attributed to Edmund Burke 1729 - 1797


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Old 06-06-2015, 10:13 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

In article ,
Peter James wrote:

So, it's not likely to work for carrots and parsnips on two grounds,
and it REALLY doesn't work for salsify and scorzonera (even though
they are Compositae, which usually transplant), for the reasons you
give, redoubled in spades and with icing on top.

Every spring I start my parsnips in tubes made of newspaper filled with
good seed compost. Two seeds in each tube and pinch out one before
planting out when the plant shows two leaves. I agree with an earlier
posting you need to get them in the ground before the tap root gets to
the bottomof the tube.

I do parsnips this way as they are very long to germinate and seeds
planted in the "wild" often get lost and need thinning out and this
method works well.


Now, that IS an interesting idea! I do that with Phaseolus beans,
because there is something in my soil that attacks them while they
are germinating, and they do better if grown hotter initially. And
sweetcorn. But I gave up on parsnips ages ago, because I couldn't
get them to a decent size. So thanks for the idea.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:11 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

"Nick Maclaren" wrote ...
Peter James wrote:

So, it's not likely to work for carrots and parsnips on two grounds,
and it REALLY doesn't work for salsify and scorzonera (even though
they are Compositae, which usually transplant), for the reasons you
give, redoubled in spades and with icing on top.

Every spring I start my parsnips in tubes made of newspaper filled with
good seed compost. Two seeds in each tube and pinch out one before
planting out when the plant shows two leaves. I agree with an earlier
posting you need to get them in the ground before the tap root gets to
the bottomof the tube.

I do parsnips this way as they are very long to germinate and seeds
planted in the "wild" often get lost and need thinning out and this
method works well.


Now, that IS an interesting idea! I do that with Phaseolus beans,
because there is something in my soil that attacks them while they
are germinating, and they do better if grown hotter initially. And
sweetcorn. But I gave up on parsnips ages ago, because I couldn't
get them to a decent size. So thanks for the idea.


If you don't want to use toilet rolls then how about Rootrainers especially
the deep ones which I currently use for runner beans.
http://rootrainers.co.uk/rootrainers/index.php
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

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Old 09-06-2015, 08:56 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

In article ,
Bob Hobden wrote:

So, it's not likely to work for carrots and parsnips on two grounds,
and it REALLY doesn't work for salsify and scorzonera (even though
they are Compositae, which usually transplant), for the reasons you
give, redoubled in spades and with icing on top.
Every spring I start my parsnips in tubes made of newspaper filled with
good seed compost. Two seeds in each tube and pinch out one before
planting out when the plant shows two leaves. I agree with an earlier
posting you need to get them in the ground before the tap root gets to
the bottomof the tube.

I do parsnips this way as they are very long to germinate and seeds
planted in the "wild" often get lost and need thinning out and this
method works well.


Now, that IS an interesting idea! I do that with Phaseolus beans,
because there is something in my soil that attacks them while they
are germinating, and they do better if grown hotter initially. And
sweetcorn. But I gave up on parsnips ages ago, because I couldn't
get them to a decent size. So thanks for the idea.

If you don't want to use toilet rolls then how about Rootrainers especially
the deep ones which I currently use for runner beans.
http://rootrainers.co.uk/rootrainers/index.php


I make my own, which work well.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
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Old 14-06-2015, 06:12 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots


"David Hill" wrote in message
...
On 03/06/2015 00:04, philgurr wrote:
"Roger Tonkin" wrote in message
...
Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit and noticed among other vegetables, they were selling small
trays of carrotts, each with 6-8 clumps of quite tall
seedlings. Instructions of the tray said palnt out in frost
free soil! No indication of whether you should break up the
clumps or of distance.

I was always lead to belive that transplanting of root
vegetables like carrots/parsnips/swedes etc was a no no, as
they roots would split or not form properly.

Is this true? If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?


It is not true. I have grown beetroot successfully in cells in the
greenhouse for years before planting outside and had a good
crop every year. I shall be planting out in a weeks time here in
the far north, when we will probably be free of frost (although
this year there is no certainty !!!). It is the only way that we can
get a long enough growing season.

Phil
40 miles N. of Inverness


There is a difference between crops like Beetroot and Swedes, and long
rooted veg like Carrots and Parsnips.
The first thing the latter do is to send down their tap root, if it gets
bent or damaged then the resulting plant will have a lumpy root when
lifted.


I always understood it was a bad idea to transplant carrots, but I am happy
to be proved wrong.


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Old 15-06-2015, 11:17 AM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

On 14/06/2015 18:12, Christina Websell wrote:
"David Hill" wrote in message
...
On 03/06/2015 00:04, philgurr wrote:
"Roger Tonkin" wrote in message
...
Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit and noticed among other vegetables, they were selling small
trays of carrotts, each with 6-8 clumps of quite tall
seedlings. Instructions of the tray said palnt out in frost
free soil! No indication of whether you should break up the
clumps or of distance.

I was always lead to belive that transplanting of root
vegetables like carrots/parsnips/swedes etc was a no no, as
they roots would split or not form properly.

Is this true? If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?

It is not true. I have grown beetroot successfully in cells in the
greenhouse for years before planting outside and had a good
crop every year. I shall be planting out in a weeks time here in
the far north, when we will probably be free of frost (although
this year there is no certainty !!!). It is the only way that we can
get a long enough growing season.

Phil
40 miles N. of Inverness


There is a difference between crops like Beetroot and Swedes, and long
rooted veg like Carrots and Parsnips.
The first thing the latter do is to send down their tap root, if it gets
bent or damaged then the resulting plant will have a lumpy root when
lifted.


I always understood it was a bad idea to transplant carrots, but I am happy
to be proved wrong.


Visiting Wyevale the other day I saw they had packs of Radish plants


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Old 15-06-2015, 12:55 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

In article ,
David Hill wrote:
On 14/06/2015 18:12, Christina Websell wrote:
"David Hill" wrote in message
...

There is a difference between crops like Beetroot and Swedes, and long
rooted veg like Carrots and Parsnips.
The first thing the latter do is to send down their tap root, if it gets
bent or damaged then the resulting plant will have a lumpy root when
lifted.


I always understood it was a bad idea to transplant carrots, but I am happy
to be proved wrong.

Visiting Wyevale the other day I saw they had packs of Radish plants


Radishes are Cruciferae, not Umbelliferae, and are not tap-rooted.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
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Old 15-06-2015, 02:32 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

On 15/06/2015 12:55, Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article ,
David Hill wrote:
On 14/06/2015 18:12, Christina Websell wrote:
"David Hill" wrote in message
...

There is a difference between crops like Beetroot and Swedes, and long
rooted veg like Carrots and Parsnips.
The first thing the latter do is to send down their tap root, if it gets
bent or damaged then the resulting plant will have a lumpy root when
lifted.

I always understood it was a bad idea to transplant carrots, but I am happy
to be proved wrong.

Visiting Wyevale the other day I saw they had packs of Radish plants


Radishes are Cruciferae, not Umbelliferae, and are not tap-rooted.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

I know, but who would want to transplant something so fast growing.
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Old 16-06-2015, 12:15 PM posted to uk.rec.gardening
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Default Transplanting Carrots

Good afternoon, all.

I read all the messages in this thread and are still waiting for a
definite statement. Unfortunately, carrots are a sensible subject in
Normandy and I cannot make my own experience this year (I may, next
year and tell you about it).

On Tue, 2 Jun 2015 22:53:43 +0100,
Roger Tonkin wrote:
Whilst in Homebase this afternoon, I wandered around the garden
bit

(...)
If so how do Homebase justify selling them like
this?


My question is a different one: Why doesn't any of you actually ask them
? If there is something to gain from the communication with so-called
experts, we should by all means hear them.

On the other hand, “experience is the enemy of the better“ (myself
june 2015) and „Experience is nothing! You can do things the wrong way
for 35 years.“ (Kurt Tucholsky, around 1928).

Michael
--
Location: Lower Normandy (Orne), France
GnuPG/OpenPGP 4096R/3216CF02 2013-11-15 [expires: 2015-11-15]
sub 4096R/2751C550 2013-11-15 [expires: 2015-11-15]
[Next key will use elliptic-curve algorithm! :-) Get GnuPG!!]
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