Is it easy to get Clematis to grow from cuttings?
Thanks
R

"Rich" wrote in message
...
Is it easy to get Clematis to grow from cuttings?
Thanks
R

Yep.

Pete

"Rich" wrote in message
...
Is it easy to get Clematis to grow from cuttings?
Thanks

I don't know, but they are v ery easy to grow from internodal layering.
I once layered long shoots 3 times each, and every single one of them took.

Franz

"Rich" wrote in message
...
Is it easy to get Clematis to grow from cuttings?
Thanks
R


I would love to think so but while I take cuttings of lots of things I have
had no success with Clematis

"bnd777" wrote in message
...

"Rich" wrote in message
...
Is it easy to get Clematis to grow from cuttings?
Thanks
R


I would love to think so but while I take cuttings of lots of things I
have
had no success with Clematis

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at a
joint, but midway between joints.

Franz

On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:19:17 +0000 (UTC), "Franz Heymann"
wrote:

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at a
joint, but midway between joints.

So I have always understood but never succeeded. However on a
Gardeners' World a few months ago Chris Beardshaw said he finds nodal
cuttings are better!
Can we have more details of your layering process please Franz?
Any definitive advice, anyone?

Pam in Bristol

in article , Pam Moore at
wrote on 14/10/03 10:39 am:

On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:19:17 +0000 (UTC), "Franz Heymann"
wrote:

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at a
joint, but midway between joints.

So I have always understood but never succeeded. However on a
Gardeners' World a few months ago Chris Beardshaw said he finds nodal
cuttings are better!
Can we have more details of your layering process please Franz?
Any definitive advice, anyone?

Pam in Bristol


Ray says ( ;- ) he takes cuttings which include the node. He leaves just a
millimetre or so of stem below the node. He takes off any leaves near the
node and leaves just two at the top. HTH.
Doing it without the nodes means you get more cuttings from one plant (he
tells me) but he thinks they root better using the node.
--
Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
(remove the 'x' to email me)

"Pam Moore" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:19:17 +0000 (UTC), "Franz Heymann"
wrote:

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at a
joint, but midway between joints.

So I have always understood but never succeeded. However on a
Gardeners' World a few months ago Chris Beardshaw said he finds nodal
cuttings are better!
Can we have more details of your layering process please Franz?

In mid-late July (I don't remember precisely when) I typically disentangled
an approximately 8 ft stem and laid it flat out on the ground. At 3 more
or less eually spaced positions I sank 4" pots in the soil along the stem
and filled them with general purpose compost. I made longitudinal slices
into the stems, going to about halfway through. I painted a little Roota
(liquid) rooting hormone into the wounds and planted each wound into a pot.
I left them without any attention whatsoever for the rest of the season.
All my layers rooted every time I tried it.

I have done it with Hagley Hybrid and Lady Betty Balfour only.

Franz

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...

"Pam Moore" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:19:17 +0000 (UTC), "Franz Heymann"
wrote:

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at a
joint, but midway between joints.

So I have always understood but never succeeded. However on a
Gardeners' World a few months ago Chris Beardshaw said he finds nodal
cuttings are better!
Can we have more details of your layering process please Franz?

In mid-late July (I don't remember precisely when) I typically
disentangled
an approximately 8 ft stem and laid it flat out on the ground. At 3 more
or less eually spaced positions I sank 4" pots in the soil along the stem
and filled them with general purpose compost. I made longitudinal slices
into the stems, going to about halfway through. I painted a little Roota
(liquid) rooting hormone into the wounds and planted each wound into a
pot.
I left them without any attention whatsoever for the rest of the season.
All my layers rooted every time I tried it.

I have done it with Hagley Hybrid and Lady Betty Balfour only.

Franz

I have tried all these methods on a huge variety of different clematis but
sadly had no success

"bnd777" wrote in message
...

"Franz Heymann" wrote in message
...

"Pam Moore" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:19:17 +0000 (UTC), "Franz Heymann"
wrote:

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at
a
joint, but midway between joints.

So I have always understood but never succeeded. However on a
Gardeners' World a few months ago Chris Beardshaw said he finds nodal
cuttings are better!
Can we have more details of your layering process please Franz?

In mid-late July (I don't remember precisely when) I typically
disentangled
an approximately 8 ft stem and laid it flat out on the ground. At 3
more
or less eually spaced positions I sank 4" pots in the soil along the
stem
and filled them with general purpose compost. I made longitudinal
slices
into the stems, going to about halfway through. I painted a little
Roota
(liquid) rooting hormone into the wounds and planted each wound into a
pot.
I left them without any attention whatsoever for the rest of the season.
All my layers rooted every time I tried it.

I have done it with Hagley Hybrid and Lady Betty Balfour only.

Franz

I have tried all these methods on a huge variety of different clematis
but
sadly had no success

I don't understand what happened to the attribution marks. I did not write
the last sentence here.

Franz

The message
from Pam Moore contains these words:

So I have always understood but never succeeded. However on a
Gardeners' World a few months ago Chris Beardshaw said he finds nodal
cuttings are better!
Can we have more details of your layering process please Franz?
Any definitive advice, anyone?

Cut halfway between nodes. (Any time of the year)

Place *HORIZONTALLY* in a trough in the ground, or in a seed tray.

Cover with soil or potting compost.

Keep moist.

--
Rusty Hinge
horrid·squeak&zetnet·co·uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/tqt.htm

The message
from "Franz Heymann" contains these words:

Remember that in the case of clematis cuttings should not be taken at a
joint, but midway between joints.

I planted several this year and they all took. I promised one to
someone, but I disunforget who.

--
Rusty Hinge
horrid·squeak&zetnet·co·uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/tqt.htm

"Pam Moore" wrote in a message:
snip
I have acquired some long pieces off a rampant clematis which I
greatly admired last yea. (viticella species, bought for 3s 6d 30
years ago in Woolworths!)
I have cut them up and potted them as conventional clematis cuttings,
(internodal) some with hormone, some not.
Now I would like some advice on the best way to look after them.
---
I have had great success with a cut-in-half, plastic 1 litre Coke or
lemonade bottle. Just cut an 'empty' Coke bottle in half and half fill the
bottom half of the bottle with a suitable damp cutting compost. Insert the
cutting/s, and slide about an inch of the top half of the bottle *inside*
the bottom half. Screw the cap on and await results. I use a half-and-half
mix of JI seed compost and sharp sand with some added Vermiculite. This
method also works well with Lonicera and other semi-hardwood cuttings.

Bella

"Pam Moore" wrote in message
...
I have acquired some long pieces off a rampant clematis which I
greatly admired last yea. (viticella species, bought for 3s 6d 30
years ago in Woolworths!)
I have cut them up and potted them as conventional clematis cuttings,
(internodal) some with hormone, some not.
Now I would like some advice on the best way to look after them. I
have covered each pot with a polybag but my experience with cuttings
generally is that they go mouldy if left covered and shrivel if not
covered.
All advice gratefully received. I am very anxious to get at least one
to root. I have about 36 cuttings in 6 pots!
TIA

Pam in Bristol

************
Ok, Pammo! - you've come to the right lad!.
Preparation:, Take the long piece and cut as follows.
Snip them into separate lengths by snipping off at one inch approx above
each node. You now have a few pieces shaped like a long thin "T." Where the
"T" piece meets the stalk there are two little tiny buds. just two, - no
more than one at each side. no more
If you have plenty of long lengths also try , for fun, snipping them into
double-length T pieces but with two nodes, i.e, - twice as long as the
aforementioned. In this case there will be four tiny buds.
These will be pricked out into the compost to just above the bottom node of
the pair of nodes. Don't worry about the buried length, - it will strike
shoots on its tod, (as it pleases,) if it wants to, so don't worry.
Cultivators use just one node length, (one long T piece),- but they have a
living to make and you don't. Also, they have the sophisticated, gently
bottom heated and polythene tented stagings which makes work easy.
Compost can be straight peat and nowt will come to any harm, - You are not
interested in feeding anything at this time, - you are trying to strike
cuttings.
I would suggest the peat-bed depth be a minimum of about 6 to 8 inches. But
don't dash out and buy a 500 gallon oil drum. (!!). - I would say a 8 to
10 inches is gilding the lily a bit.
Slit the bottom as you wish but it is not absolutely necessary. we are
looking for buds from the two nodes , but also it has to grow roots and
these come out of the sides of the T stick but having a node at the bottom
sometimes helps because if the cut is just under a node it sometimes helps
roots to grow there.
Hormones is not absolutely necessary but let's give them all the
encouragement we can, eh?!.
You can stick a bunch of cuttings in a slightly shaded corner of the garden
and go away and forget them for six months if you like.
Rightyho!, Stick the cuttings into the compost up to about half an inch to
an inch under the node. You can line them up about an inch apart if you are
using a box or summat like that. But don't rush out for a box just because
I mentioned it, your pots will do nicely. When you *buy* a clematis it
comes in a black deep ersatz "pot" and these are ok because you can put the
cuttings in up to the neck and later the roots have a chance to develop
without too much disturbance. You will only pot-on when they've really got
going. If you are using a wider container but is it a bit shallow you can
slope the T sticks as you push them in.
I see nothing wrong , when using pots, - in pulling a freezer bag or a thin
plastic bag (from your purchase at the fruit stall in a supermarket), over
the top of the pot and tie it with string around the pot. But! I put about a
dozen little holes in the sides of the bag. I don't like the bag sealed and
steaming up too much.
Here's a good idea! get a plastic bowl as used when you buy jelly trifle ,
Eat the trifle, (drill some small holes around the side to avoid overspill
and excess height of water half an inch from the top rim). and put some peat
in it. Stand the pot in it. Water plant and bowl equally.

That's all I can think of for now. If in a greenhouse put the pots on a
shady shelf. Now it's time for patience. You have to wait. Don't interfere
too much or fuss about.
Occasionally peek in and keep a watch on the nodes. On some, where the leaf
joins the stalk a small bud may show.
Bingo!.- Congratulations!, - you are now the mother of a new clematis plant,
Doug.

On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 01:08:27 +0100, "Douglas"
wrote:

Ok, Pammo! - you've come to the right lad!.

Thanks Douggo!! What a comprehensive reply - more of an article for a
magazine.
Trouble is, I have already done the cuttings, mostly as you say, T
shapes with some of the leaves removed, and I have potted them in 2
litre pots, about 6 to a pot. One pot I tried something a
professional told me; get a long stem and coil it round so it fits
inside a pot and just bury the nodes.
I like your idea of making holes in the plastic. I'm afraid of them
going mouldy with plastic or drying out without it. Holes should do
the trick.
I may be able to get another long piece, and will try the double node
idea.
Two more questions;
Would a heated propagator help?
Would spraying with fungicide help?
I'm determined I HAVE to get some of these growing.
If I knew how to post a photo for all to view I would do so.
Thanks
Pammo!