Last weekend we tore down the remains of our old garden shed, which was
slowly rotting from the bottom up.

I now have to prepare space for the new shed. The old shed was placed on
top of a number of breezeblocks, spaced out, and with strips of lino on the
top. I think some cement powder had also been mixed with the soil, though
any coherence it had is long gone and it's now just a powdery layer a few
centimeters down.

I deduce from the fact that the bottom of our old shed rotted first that
simply balancing it on breeze blocks was not the best approach (though to
be fair, I don't know how old the shed was, and it had been neglected for
some time before we moved in.) What would be a better way?

I have a bunch of 2x2 paving slabs I could lay - would that be appropriate?
And can I just stick them down on the gravel* then bung the shed on top, or
would it be better to mortar them as well?

Victoria

* all our soil is gravel. This bit just doesn't have much topsoil on top.

--
gardening on a north-facing hill
in South-East Cornwall
--

a concrete base is the only way to go here.

clanger

"Victoria Clare" wrote in message
. 240.12...
Last weekend we tore down the remains of our old garden shed, which was
slowly rotting from the bottom up.

I now have to prepare space for the new shed. The old shed was placed on
top of a number of breezeblocks, spaced out, and with strips of lino on
the
top. I think some cement powder had also been mixed with the soil, though
any coherence it had is long gone and it's now just a powdery layer a few
centimeters down.

I deduce from the fact that the bottom of our old shed rotted first that
simply balancing it on breeze blocks was not the best approach (though to
be fair, I don't know how old the shed was, and it had been neglected for
some time before we moved in.) What would be a better way?

I have a bunch of 2x2 paving slabs I could lay - would that be
appropriate?
And can I just stick them down on the gravel* then bung the shed on top,
or
would it be better to mortar them as well?

Victoria

* all our soil is gravel. This bit just doesn't have much topsoil on top.

--
gardening on a north-facing hill
in South-East Cornwall
--

"Victoria Clare" wrote in message
. 240.12...
Last weekend we tore down the remains of our old garden shed, which was
slowly rotting from the bottom up.

I now have to prepare space for the new shed. The old shed was placed on
top of a number of breezeblocks, spaced out, and with strips of lino on
the
top. I think some cement powder had also been mixed with the soil, though
any coherence it had is long gone and it's now just a powdery layer a few
centimeters down.

I deduce from the fact that the bottom of our old shed rotted first that
simply balancing it on breeze blocks was not the best approach (though to
be fair, I don't know how old the shed was, and it had been neglected for
some time before we moved in.) What would be a better way?

I have a bunch of 2x2 paving slabs I could lay - would that be
appropriate?
And can I just stick them down on the gravel* then bung the shed on top,
or
would it be better to mortar them as well?

I have had my last two sheds on tanalised wooden bearers. Very easy to lay,
lets the air circulate underneath and keeps everything dry.Obviously (?!)
you need to make sure the ground is hard underneath the bearers, that could
be something as simple as a few concrete slabs, you dont have to put them
the whole length of the bearers.

--
Tumbleweed

Remove theobvious before replying (but no email reply necessary to
newsgroups)

"Tumbleweed" wrote in message
. ..


I have had my last two sheds on tanalised wooden bearers.

p.s that was sheds at two different places, not that the first one rotted or
fell over!
Its still there after 20 years going strong, newest one is about 8 years old
and in perfect condition.

--
Tumbleweed

Remove theobvious before replying (but no email reply necessary to
newsgroups)

"Tumbleweed" wrote in message
. ..
I have had my last two sheds on tanalised wooden bearers. Very easy to
lay,
lets the air circulate underneath and keeps everything dry.

Including rodents?
Perfect nesting conditions.

I'd put down some gravel and make sure it was well flattened. Put on a layer
of thick blue polythene and then lay your paving slabs on this. (If they
aren't quite level get one bag of pre-mixed mortar, mix with water in your
wheelbarrow and use to make four small "dollops" under the corners of each
slab.)
The polythene will stop much of the damp rising from the ground to rust your
tools.
We painted the bottom of the shed panels with bitumen - you can get a small
tin for a fiver.

"Victoria Clare" wrote in message
. 240.12...
Last weekend we tore down the remains of our old garden shed, which was
slowly rotting from the bottom up.

I now have to prepare space for the new shed. The old shed was placed on
top of a number of breezeblocks, spaced out, and with strips of lino on
the
top. I think some cement powder had also been mixed with the soil, though
any coherence it had is long gone and it's now just a powdery layer a few
centimeters down.

I deduce from the fact that the bottom of our old shed rotted first that
simply balancing it on breeze blocks was not the best approach (though to
be fair, I don't know how old the shed was, and it had been neglected for
some time before we moved in.) What would be a better way?

I have a bunch of 2x2 paving slabs I could lay - would that be
appropriate?
And can I just stick them down on the gravel* then bung the shed on top,
or
would it be better to mortar them as well?

My shed is placed on a group of 12 paving slabs of 18" x 18" which lie
directly on the ground. After 15 years I see no sign of trouble of any
kind.

Franz

"Sue da Nimm" . wrote in
:


"Tumbleweed" wrote in message
. ..
I have had my last two sheds on tanalised wooden bearers. Very easy
to
lay,
lets the air circulate underneath and keeps everything dry.

Including rodents?
Perfect nesting conditions.

I'd put down some gravel and make sure it was well flattened. Put on a
layer of thick blue polythene and then lay your paving slabs on this.
(If they aren't quite level get one bag of pre-mixed mortar, mix with
water in your wheelbarrow and use to make four small "dollops" under
the corners of each slab.)
The polythene will stop much of the damp rising from the ground to
rust your tools.
We painted the bottom of the shed panels with bitumen - you can get a
small tin for a fiver.

The rodent thing does concern me. We had a rat under the old shed at one
point, and it was also a favorite place for my rabbits to hide if they
decided they fancied camping out for the night (not encouraged as we have
foxes round here, but difficult to remove them once entrenched...)

What is the best way to ensure the base is sealed, without providing a path
for damp and rot? Do you just run the walls right down to the slabs?

Victoria

In article ,
(Victoria Clare) wrote:

What is the best way to ensure the base is sealed

Wire mesh - 1/4" gauge will keep even mice out. Put it over all entry
spaces and preferably a few inches down into the ground too.

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

The message
from "Tumbleweed" contains these words:

"Tumbleweed" wrote in message
. ..


I have had my last two sheds on tanalised wooden bearers.

p.s that was sheds at two different places, not that the first one rotted or
fell over!
Its still there after 20 years going strong, newest one is about 8 years old
and in perfect condition.

My first husband built a shed the year we moved into this house ('68).
He set it up on bearers (not tanalised, there was no such thing in
them days!) and it's as good as the day it was built. Last shed we
bought (10 years ago) was set on paving slabs, and we took it down
this summer because it was rotting from the base up, and ready to
fall down.

--
AnneJ
ICQ #:- 119531282

Anne Jackson wrote in news:2003110714465576656
@zetnet.co.uk:


My first husband built a shed the year we moved into this house ('68).
He set it up on bearers (not tanalised, there was no such thing in
them days!) and it's as good as the day it was built. Last shed we
bought (10 years ago) was set on paving slabs, and we took it down
this summer because it was rotting from the base up, and ready to
fall down.


Yet mine was raised on breezeblocks (with bearers sitting on top of them)
and it rotted through from the bottom up!

Is there a right answer?

(Steve Harris) wrote in
:

In article ,
(Victoria Clare) wrote:

What is the best way to ensure the base is sealed

Wire mesh - 1/4" gauge will keep even mice out. Put it over all entry
spaces and preferably a few inches down into the ground too.


Doh! of course, how did I not think of that!

Thanks, Steve

"Victoria Clare" wrote in message
.209...
Anne Jackson wrote in news:2003110714465576656
@zetnet.co.uk:


My first husband built a shed the year we moved into this house ('68).
He set it up on bearers (not tanalised, there was no such thing in
them days!) and it's as good as the day it was built. Last shed we
bought (10 years ago) was set on paving slabs, and we took it down
this summer because it was rotting from the base up, and ready to
fall down.


Yet mine was raised on breezeblocks (with bearers sitting on top of them)
and it rotted through from the bottom up!

Is there a right answer?


Maybe it depends on where the shed is as much as what it's on?

--
Martin & Anna Sykes
( Remove x's when replying )
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~sykesm

The message
from Victoria Clare contains these words:

What is the best way to ensure the base is sealed, without providing a path
for damp and rot? Do you just run the walls right down to the slabs?

If you make a poured concrete base, or lay slabs, it's well worth
making sure that the base measurements are very slightly smaller than
the outline of the shed, so that the walls have a centimetre or so
overhang all round and rain sheds straight off onto the soil (or a
border of gravel, to avoid mud splashes). If the concrete, or slabs,
protrude a couple of inches beyond the shed walls, rain landing on them
can run back or puddle under the shed causing the wood to rot.

I prefer a floorless wooden shed bolted onto a poured concrete base,
so there's nowhere for rodents or water to lurk unseen.

Janet.

"Victoria Clare" wrote in message
.209...
Anne Jackson wrote in news:2003110714465576656
@zetnet.co.uk:


My first husband built a shed the year we moved into this house ('68).
He set it up on bearers (not tanalised, there was no such thing in
them days!) and it's as good as the day it was built. Last shed we
bought (10 years ago) was set on paving slabs, and we took it down
this summer because it was rotting from the base up, and ready to
fall down.


Yet mine was raised on breezeblocks (with bearers sitting on top of them)
and it rotted through from the bottom up!

Is there a right answer?

It's probably down to the quality of the shed timber rather than the base
it's sat upon.

I sandwiched a 1 inch layer of expanded polystyrene in between bricks and
chipboard for my base 10 years ago, so far no rising damp plus great
insulation.

HTH

davsut