Thank you all for replying. I haven't even heard of some of the trees/shrubs
suggested, but I will plough through the suggestions and see what works
best.

Nick, the "Frisia" version of the pseudoacacia is smaller than the
normal pseudoacacia ( 25 feet ) and has bright yellow/green leaves, so is OK
for the small garden.

Kay, I looked into the Amalanchier as it sounds really good, but the
flowering only lasts 4-7 days, also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

Tenderness is not a problem with any of the suggested plants, my
next-door-neighbour has a banana tree that is many years old!

Sacha, I know the Dartington Cider Mill, but was looking for
something in the 10-20 foot range; however, your suggestion of the Cornus
Controversa Variegata looks interesting.

Like I said, thanks for all the suggestions, I shall look into them,

cheers,

Andy.

In article , andrewpreece
writes
Thank you all for replying. I haven't even heard of some of the trees/shrubs
suggested, but I will plough through the suggestions and see what works
best.

Nick, the "Frisia" version of the pseudoacacia is smaller than the
normal pseudoacacia ( 25 feet ) and has bright yellow/green leaves, so is OK
for the small garden.

Kay, I looked into the Amalanchier as it sounds really good, but the
flowering only lasts 4-7 days,

Lasts a lot longer here, but we're cooler than you are.

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)


--
Kay Easton

Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/edward/index.htm

Thank you all for replying. I haven't even heard of some of the trees/shrubs
suggested, but I will plough through the suggestions and see what works
best.

Nick, the "Frisia" version of the pseudoacacia is smaller than the
normal pseudoacacia ( 25 feet ) and has bright yellow/green leaves, so is OK
for the small garden.

Kay, I looked into the Amalanchier as it sounds really good, but the
flowering only lasts 4-7 days, also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

Tenderness is not a problem with any of the suggested plants, my
next-door-neighbour has a banana tree that is many years old!

Sacha, I know the Dartington Cider Mill, but was looking for
something in the 10-20 foot range; however, your suggestion of the Cornus
Controversa Variegata looks interesting.

Like I said, thanks for all the suggestions, I shall look into them,

cheers,

Andy.

"andrewpreece" wrote in message
Thank you all for replying. I haven't even heard of some of the
trees/shrubs
suggested, but I will plough through the suggestions and see what works
best.

Nick, the "Frisia" version of the pseudoacacia is smaller than the
normal pseudoacacia ( 25 feet ) and has bright yellow/green leaves, so is
OK
for the small garden.

How about R. pseudoacacia "Tortuosa" then, quite rare, green curly leaves in
bunches looking like ringlets (quite beautiful), flowers every year when
mature, well it has for me. Never even seen a root when digging let alone a
sucker, yes it does seed around but it's not a problem.

Here are the rest in my list...

Cornus kousa
Crataegus punctata
Eucryphia X Intermedia
Koelreuteria paniculata "Fastigata"
Malus ioenis "Plena"
Malus pumila and hybrids of
Michelia doltsopa (Possibly tender?)
Parrotia persica (bit big ?)

What do you all think?

Enjoyed looking into your question Andy made a change from digging the
allotment. :-)

--
Regards
Bob

Use a useful Screen Saver...
http://setiathome.ssl.berkeley.edu/
and find intelligent life amongst the stars

In article , andrewpreece
writes
Thank you all for replying. I haven't even heard of some of the trees/shrubs
suggested, but I will plough through the suggestions and see what works
best.

Nick, the "Frisia" version of the pseudoacacia is smaller than the
normal pseudoacacia ( 25 feet ) and has bright yellow/green leaves, so is OK
for the small garden.

Kay, I looked into the Amalanchier as it sounds really good, but the
flowering only lasts 4-7 days,

Lasts a lot longer here, but we're cooler than you are.

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)


--
Kay Easton

Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/edward/index.htm

"andrewpreece" wrote in message
Thank you all for replying. I haven't even heard of some of the
trees/shrubs
suggested, but I will plough through the suggestions and see what works
best.

Nick, the "Frisia" version of the pseudoacacia is smaller than the
normal pseudoacacia ( 25 feet ) and has bright yellow/green leaves, so is
OK
for the small garden.

How about R. pseudoacacia "Tortuosa" then, quite rare, green curly leaves in
bunches looking like ringlets (quite beautiful), flowers every year when
mature, well it has for me. Never even seen a root when digging let alone a
sucker, yes it does seed around but it's not a problem.

Here are the rest in my list...

Cornus kousa
Crataegus punctata
Eucryphia X Intermedia
Koelreuteria paniculata "Fastigata"
Malus ioenis "Plena"
Malus pumila and hybrids of
Michelia doltsopa (Possibly tender?)
Parrotia persica (bit big ?)

What do you all think?

Enjoyed looking into your question Andy made a change from digging the
allotment. :-)

--
Regards
Bob

Use a useful Screen Saver...
http://setiathome.ssl.berkeley.edu/
and find intelligent life amongst the stars

In article ,
Kay Easton wrote:

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)

That attracted my interest a while back and so I chased it up. It
turns out that the rose family is dominating (in numbers of species)
in northern temperate zone small trees - as we live in that, it
applies here! In particular, almost all of the edible fruits native
to northern Europe are rose family.

It gets rarer as it gets hotter, and isn't nearly as widespread in
the southern temperate zones (which are more separated).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
Kay Easton wrote:

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)

That attracted my interest a while back and so I chased it up. It
turns out that the rose family is dominating (in numbers of species)
in northern temperate zone small trees - as we live in that, it
applies here! In particular, almost all of the edible fruits native
to northern Europe are rose family.

It gets rarer as it gets hotter, and isn't nearly as widespread in
the southern temperate zones (which are more separated).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Kay Easton wrote:

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)

That attracted my interest a while back and so I chased it up. It
turns out that the rose family is dominating (in numbers of species)
in northern temperate zone small trees - as we live in that, it
applies here! In particular, almost all of the edible fruits native
to northern Europe are rose family.

It gets rarer as it gets hotter, and isn't nearly as widespread in
the southern temperate zones (which are more separated).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Andy.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Kay Easton wrote:

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)

That attracted my interest a while back and so I chased it up. It
turns out that the rose family is dominating (in numbers of species)
in northern temperate zone small trees - as we live in that, it
applies here! In particular, almost all of the edible fruits native
to northern Europe are rose family.

It gets rarer as it gets hotter, and isn't nearly as widespread in
the southern temperate zones (which are more separated).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Andy.

In article ,
"andrewpreece" writes:
|
| It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
| I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
| and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
| if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
| is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
| that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
| hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Generally, you want a plant that is fairly close to the native form
and grows in high humidity areas. Our native trees are pretty
resistant, for example.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
"andrewpreece" writes:
|
| It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
| I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
| and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
| if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
| is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
| that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
| hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Generally, you want a plant that is fairly close to the native form
and grows in high humidity areas. Our native trees are pretty
resistant, for example.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Kay Easton wrote:

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)

That attracted my interest a while back and so I chased it up. It
turns out that the rose family is dominating (in numbers of species)
in northern temperate zone small trees - as we live in that, it
applies here! In particular, almost all of the edible fruits native
to northern Europe are rose family.

It gets rarer as it gets hotter, and isn't nearly as widespread in
the southern temperate zones (which are more separated).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Andy.

"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Kay Easton wrote:

also, as a member of the rose family it can
suffer from rust, and we're plagued with rust down here.

nearly everything is a member of the rose family, or so it seems!
Crataegus also is a rose, as is Sorbus and crab apple. narrows the field
a bit ;-)

That attracted my interest a while back and so I chased it up. It
turns out that the rose family is dominating (in numbers of species)
in northern temperate zone small trees - as we live in that, it
applies here! In particular, almost all of the edible fruits native
to northern Europe are rose family.

It gets rarer as it gets hotter, and isn't nearly as widespread in
the southern temperate zones (which are more separated).


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Andy.

In article ,
"andrewpreece" writes:
|
| It may be that I'm being overcautious about the rust problem;
| I got the info off a web site ( also about it flowering only for 4 -7 days,
| and it looks like duff info if Kay is right ), but I'll double check and see
| if Amelanchiere is mentioned as rust prone anywhere else. The southwest
| is the rust epicentre of the UK and I certainly don't want a specimen tree
| that needs constant spraying! The worst affected plants I have are roses,
| hollyhocks and Tutsan ( a form of Hypericum ).

Generally, you want a plant that is fairly close to the native form
and grows in high humidity areas. Our native trees are pretty
resistant, for example.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.