How do you stop the wood from rotting? Mine are all rotting away. I found
a
crisp packet with a 2001 "best before" date embedded in the concrete of
one

You're supposed to soak the end in preserver overnight. Personally, I just
use concreted in Metposts. Also, concrete is supposed to be installed clean.
Embedded crisp packets don't bode well for strength.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
t...
Neither if you have a choice - Metposts are not terribly good at
holding a fence no matter how you put them in.

Personally, I use concrete-in Metposts using the following order:

1. Dig hole 1 spade wide 1.5 spade deep.
2. Insert post into Metpost using sledge hammer.
3. Stand post in hole.
4. Adjust position.
5. Adjust plumb.
6. Buttress post to prevent movement. I frequently attach the fence panel
at
this point to ensure position and plumb.
7. Pour in half a bag of post fix.
8. Water.
9. Pour in rest of post fix.
10. Water.
11. Don't touch for 24 hours.

The advantage of using this method is that you have the advantages of
concrete (longetivity and strength of fixing) coupled with the advantages
of
metposts (wooden post not underground, can be replaced).

Christian.

That's what I was planning to do when I do the actual fence later!
Al

"Bob Smith" wrote in message
...

"nightjar .uk.com" nightjar@insert_my_surname_here wrote in message
. ..

snip
If you want the fence to last, you thow the Metposts away, buy longer
posts,
bore a post hole, put the post in and backfill with concrete. However,
ISTR
seeing a driving tool for Metposts, which suggests you drive them in
first.


How do you stop the wood from rotting?

As the reinforced concrete posts of the original fence had managed to last
nearly 70 years, I reckoned that was a good material for the replacements. I
also put in concrete gravel boards along the bottom of the fence. If you do
concrete wooden posts in, make sure that the post is bedded slightly into a
layer of gravel before you pour the concrete. That avoids a water trap at
the bottom of the post. Where I have used wooden posts within the garden, I
used oak, which was not a lot dearer than pressure treated softwood and it
still looks like new seven years on.

Colin Bignell

On Tue, 29 Jun 2004 09:00:03 +0100, "Al Reynolds"
wrote:

"nightjar .uk.com" nightjar@insert_my_surname_here wrote in message
...

If you want the fence to last, you thow the Metposts away, buy longer
posts,
bore a post hole, put the post in and backfill with concrete. However,
ISTR
seeing a driving tool for Metposts, which suggests you drive them in
first.

Thanks Colin,

The fence doesn't need to last more than three years,
but needs to be put up quickly, which is why I've gone
for the metposts. You're right about the driving tool
though - I suppose they wouldn't sell these if you
weren't supposed to drive the spike in first.

Also the fence is only three foot high and in a sheltered
spot. I wouldn't use metposts for any fence taller than
3 foot or exposed to any kind of winds.

Al


But! When a Metpost is driven in you have very little control over
the exact final position or verticallity - even using the
(expensive) special tool. I like the practice of posting as one
goes with the Metposts being put into holes aligned with the edge of
a fence panel in position and then concreted.

Peter