Hello,

I am about to do some featheredge fencing, and have
two quick questions about (1) metposts and (2) arris
rail clips.

(1) Do I fit the post to the metpost, and then knock it
into the ground, or do I put the metpost in the ground
and then knock the post in?

(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?

Also, does anyone know if you can buy a "water level"
or do you just make one up out of some clear tubing?

Thanks in advance,
Al

Al Reynolds wrote:


Also, does anyone know if you can buy a "water level"
or do you just make one up out of some clear tubing?

Like this:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/...pi=1&cn=1&cd=1

--
Cheers,

John.

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On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 22:47:24 +0100, "Al Reynolds"
wrote:


(1) Do I fit the post to the metpost, and then knock it
into the ground, or do I put the metpost in the ground
and then knock the post in?




(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?

Also, does anyone know if you can buy a "water level"
or do you just make one up out of some clear tubing?

Thanks in advance,
Al



--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 22:47:24 +0100, "Al Reynolds"
wrote:


(1) Do I fit the post to the metpost, and then knock it
into the ground, or do I put the metpost in the ground
and then knock the post in?

Neither if you have a choice - Metposts are not terribly good at
holding a fence no matter how you put them in.

Also, does anyone know if you can buy a "water level"
or do you just make one up out of some clear tubing?

Make one - you can buy one from Screwfix or similar but its still
only a bit of plastic pipe and coloured water.

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

"Al Reynolds" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I am about to do some featheredge fencing, and have
two quick questions about (1) metposts and (2) arris
rail clips.

(1) Do I fit the post to the metpost, and then knock it
into the ground, or do I put the metpost in the ground
and then knock the post in?

If you want the fence to last, you thow the Metposts away, buy longer posts,
bore a post hole, put the post in and backfill with concrete. However, ISTR
seeing a driving tool for Metposts, which suggests you drive them in first.

(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?

Never seen arris rail clips. Mine are slotted into the posts.

Colin Bignell

"nightjar .uk.com" nightjar@insert_my_surname_here wrote in message
. ..

If you want the fence to last, you thow the Metposts away, buy longer
posts,
bore a post hole, put the post in and backfill with concrete. However,
ISTR
seeing a driving tool for Metposts, which suggests you drive them in
first.

Thanks Colin,

The fence doesn't need to last more than three years,
but needs to be put up quickly, which is why I've gone
for the metposts. You're right about the driving tool
though - I suppose they wouldn't sell these if you
weren't supposed to drive the spike in first.

Also the fence is only three foot high and in a sheltered
spot. I wouldn't use metposts for any fence taller than
3 foot or exposed to any kind of winds.

Al

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Al Reynolds wrote:
Also, does anyone know if you can buy a "water level"
or do you just make one up out of some clear tubing?

Like this:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/...pi=1&cn=1&cd=1

Exactly like that, except that I was hoping not to have
to pay £15 for it! Still, I should get some use out of it
while I landscape my garden.

Thanks for the link,
Al

"Al Reynolds" wrote:
(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?

For info, here is what I meant by an arris rail clip:
http://tinyurl.com/3dfdb

Al

Exactly like that, except that I was hoping not to have
to pay £15 for it! Still, I should get some use out of it
while I landscape my garden.


Garden Hose with a couple of bits of clear plastic stuck in each end!! There
is no pressure so a very lightweight hose is good enough and a bit of clear
flexible plastic hose or tube stuck in the end and taped into place.

Or, if you can get it cheaper, a long length of plastic hose. (Borrowed and
then returned??)

As used in the shipbuilding industry to get levels and angles of slipway for
launch.

Mike


--
British Pacific Fleet Reunion Birmingham September 17th - 20th
H.M.S.Collingwood Assoc. Mini Reunion Weekend at Coventry Sept 24th - 27th
Nat. Service (RAF) Assoc. AGM & Reunion Hayling Island 8th - 11th October

"Al Reynolds" wrote in message
...
"Al Reynolds" wrote:
(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?

For info, here is what I meant by an arris rail clip:
http://tinyurl.com/3dfdb

Al


I am sure you will find it easier to fit the clips to the posts first then
the rails to the clips. That way you can temporarily bind the rails in place
with string or tape - easier than trying to hold the rail in the right place
while you try to fix the brackets to the posts.

"Al Reynolds" wrote in message
...
"Al Reynolds" wrote:
(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?

For info, here is what I meant by an arris rail clip:
http://tinyurl.com/3dfdb



I thought that would be what you meant by one.

My take would be to cut the arris rails to the correct length, then nail the
clip to the arris rail, aligning the ends carefully...

Then it's a much simpler job to nail to the post - if you're working alone
you can bang a single nail into one side and slide along the rail to fix the
other side before securing with a full complement of nails.

It strikes me as the devil's own job to try and hold the rail and bang nails
into it if you fix the clips to the post first.


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

"RichardS" noaccess@invalid wrote in message
. ..
It strikes me as the devil's own job to try and hold the rail and bang
nails
into it if you fix the clips to the post first.

That's what I was thinking. I've also though that
I may need an extra pair of hands when I do this,
although I suppose I could use a couple of clamps
to hold the clips to the posts while I knock nails in.

Al

"Al Reynolds" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I am about to do some featheredge fencing, and have
two quick questions about (1) metposts and (2) arris
rail clips.

(1) Do I fit the post to the metpost, and then knock it
into the ground, or do I put the metpost in the ground
and then knock the post in?
Don't dig a hole. Part bury a concrete spur, fill the hole with concrete,
bolt the post to the spur (with a slate underneath) - lasts for ever and
post can be replaced easily.

(2) Do I fit the arris rail clips to the arris rail, and then
nail them to the posts, or do I fit the clips to the posts
and then nail to the arris rail?
It's not hard to mortice the posts and tenon (Or wedge) the ends of the
Arris. If the panel needs to be removable then the brackets are OK - fix
them to the post first, much easier.

Also, does anyone know if you can buy a "water level"
or do you just make one up out of some clear tubing?
Why not use a piece of string?

Dave S

Neither if you have a choice - Metposts are not terribly good at
holding a fence no matter how you put them in.

Personally, I use concrete-in Metposts using the following order:

1. Dig hole 1 spade wide 1.5 spade deep.
2. Insert post into Metpost using sledge hammer.
3. Stand post in hole.
4. Adjust position.
5. Adjust plumb.
6. Buttress post to prevent movement. I frequently attach the fence panel at
this point to ensure position and plumb.
7. Pour in half a bag of post fix.
8. Water.
9. Pour in rest of post fix.
10. Water.
11. Don't touch for 24 hours.

The advantage of using this method is that you have the advantages of
concrete (longetivity and strength of fixing) coupled with the advantages of
metposts (wooden post not underground, can be replaced).

Christian.

"nightjar .uk.com" nightjar@insert_my_surname_here wrote in message
. ..

snip
If you want the fence to last, you thow the Metposts away, buy longer
posts,
bore a post hole, put the post in and backfill with concrete. However,
ISTR
seeing a driving tool for Metposts, which suggests you drive them in
first.


How do you stop the wood from rotting? Mine are all rotting away. I found a
crisp packet with a 2001 "best before" date embedded in the concrete of one
(Tony Robinson would be proud).

Bob