Hi Fred
Close, its just the earth pin that is different.

Makes sense, cheaper & just as effective.

Of course with the right contacts you can equip your house with the
correct sockets ;-)

ROFL!

Dave

In uk.d-i-y, Fred wrote:
"David Lang" wrote:

On a similar basis, I did hear that Ford Motor Co in Dagenham have all their
3 pin 230v sockets & plugs made with the earth pin horizontal and the
live/neutral vertical. It was to stop the theft of plugs which cost Ford a
fortune every year.

Close, its just the earth pin that is different.

See:
http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products...5&rangeid=1037

Of course with the right contacts

groan

you can equip your house with the
correct sockets ;-)

--
Mike Barnes

In uk.d-i-y Ed B wrote:
Perhaps I'm just being a **** and the thing really should fit, but I
spent a good half hour last night trying to screw it on without cross
threading it. When screwed on as hard as possible it still squirts
everywhere, suggesting the plastic bit is too big for the tap I have.

Will try again tonight and perhaps take some pix

I've hit a similar problem when fitting up some pressure reducers for
a greenhouse watering system.

There definitely were two different thread pitches on what should have
been the same size 3/4" BSP fittings, I've since sent the 'odd' ones
to the dustbin in the sky where all such things deserve to be.

--
Chris Green

In uk.d-i-y David Lang wrote:
Hi Chris
The tap is very likely indeed to have a standard thread, no matter
how old (well, at least 1/2 a century). If the plastic connector
goes on without splitting or the threads being chewed up, that's
not the problem.

Dead right. All threaded taps are BSP threads, even in Europe. In 30 years
of connecting pressure washers to taps I've never found a domestic tap that
wasn't 3/4" BSP.

Well as I said earlier in the thread I have come across hose fittings
which are nearly, but not quite, 3/4" BSP. Not the taps themselves
but intermediate bits which *should* have been able to interface with
standard 3/4" but wouldn't. On inspection it was obvious that the
thread pitch was slightly different.

--
Chris Green

Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article ,
Mike Lyle wrote:
Nick Maclaren wrote:
[...]
There was also some sort of measuring implement that defeated the
Whipple Museum, and I mean to send to the National Maritime
Museum
to see if they have a clue what it is. My father in law couldn't
remember.

Come on! You don't expect us to take that lying down, do you?
Description, please.

A Bakelite (I think) tube about 6" long and 1/2" diameter with
a cap that pulls off to release two steel rods. Those fit through
holes in the tube (at right angles). He was a marine engineer,
so it could have been a device for measuring the wear on engine
cylinders. Or something.

Actually, I find I do feel like a nice lie-down.

--
Mike.

"Sarah Dale" wrote in message
...
Ed B wrote:
Perhaps I'm just being a **** and the thing really should fit, but I
spent a good half hour last night trying to screw it on without cross
threading it. When screwed on as hard as possible it still squirts
everywhere, suggesting the plastic bit is too big for the tap I have.

You may have the wrong size connector (implied by it being difficult to
screw on), or possibly the rubber washer or O ring which normally provides
the watertight seal inside is missing. These things are cheaply made and low
precision however, and dripping connectors are not uncommon.

On Wed, 18 May 2005 16:03:17 +0100, "Mike Lyle"
wrote:

Chris Bacon wrote:
Ed wrote:
[...]
The hose is
too thin to go over the tap nozzle, so I cant just go for the old
jubilee clip around the hose trick.

Can you warm the hose up to expand it? You'll probably need a gas
flame, used carefully. Your cooker or hob would do.

Hot, not boiling, water, I'd say. But that won't help if the tap has
a screw thread on the outer end, which seems to be what we're talking
about. I think there's something funny about the thread on either the
tap or the hose-connector. Maybe Ed should borrow a couple of hoses
from neighbours for comparison.

Well, it seems a bit of a mystery. Who would have thought that it
could go wrong.

Nobody in the thread so far has suggested using PTFE tap to make the
joint watertight. If the washer isn't up to the job a wad of the tape
wound clockwise as you see it from above would fill the gap. As for a
bib tap (that's what they're called|) costing £112 as per one of the
web pages, I'm astounded. I bought one recently from B&Q to replace
the one I installed 30 years ago. On closer inspection it just needed
the spindle packing with PTFE tape. I didn't even have to switch off
at the mains. I'm taking the tap back tomorrow - I wonder if they'll
give me £112 back?

Colin

We've just changed the connection on all our taps at the lottie. The problem seemed to be that the inner part of the tap ( which should reach the rubber seal on the adapter ) is higher then the seat on new connectors so anyone buying a connector now has leaks. We added brass hozelock fittings to the taps which has done the trick. If anyone else is thinking of doing the ame, don't spend £5.99 at B & Q. We got them for £1.20 from an ironmonger.

I had that problem! Took twelve years to sort. My tap is easily over 40 and may date from 1910. The diameter of the threaded end was 22mm approx and nearest imperial measure seemed to be 3/4". I bought a few 3/4" connectors: hozelock et al., all were marginally too small. Others were too big. I found a post on Jim's homebrew website that suggested trying 5/8" even though that did not appear to be the correct measure! It works; whoopee! I now have a 5/8" brass fitting which I got online from McNeill DIY. It cost the same as a new tap because of p&p on top, but having read your reviews of new taps :-( I decided to stick with the antique one (and much easier to fit a connector than a new tap). McNeill's rang me to discuss my problem, very nice, and the connector arrived in 3 days, which was two days faster than the date they gave me. Happy happy happy.