Recommendation to get rid of small yellowjacket nest

[Link]

Hello,

I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves on my house.
It's still small, so I'm looking for some recommendations to get rid of
it. I put up a bee killer thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and
it's caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by more bees
than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I *could* knock it down with
a stick, but then I'd be chased by angry yellowjackets. Is there some
liquid I can spray on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or
something)? Thanks!
--
-L

[Frank]

Link wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves on my house.
> It's still small, so I'm looking for some recommendations to get rid of
> it. I put up a bee killer thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and
> it's caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by more bees
> than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I *could* knock it down with
> a stick, but then I'd be chased by angry yellowjackets. Is there some
> liquid I can spray on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or
> something)? Thanks!

Hit the nest with wasp/hornet spray, stuff in a can that sprays up to 25
feet or so. Will kill everything in nest and you can knock it down
later. Probably best to do in the evening when most of the yellow
jackets have returned to the nest.

[Father Haskell]

On May 26, 1:25 pm, Link > wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves on my house.
> It's still small, so I'm looking for some recommendations to get rid of
> it. I put up a bee killer thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and
> it's caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by more bees
> than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I *could* knock it down with
> a stick, but then I'd be chased by angry yellowjackets. Is there some
> liquid I can spray on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or
> something)? Thanks!
> --
> -L

This is the nest that typically ends up like a
big upside down plate come summer? It's a paper
wasp nest, not a yellow jacket nest -- the latter
species builds nests underground, or in junk or logs
on the ground. Paper wasps are nonagressive,
do not readily attack, and are beneficial predators.
No reason to evict them unless they're located
very near human traffic. If so, take them down
with a garden hose.

[Link]

On 2008-05-26 18:17:21 -0700, Father Haskell > said:

> On May 26, 1:25 pm, Link > wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves on my house.
>> It's still small, so I'm looking for some recommendations to get rid of
>> it. I put up a bee killer thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and
>> it's caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by more bees
>> than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I *could* knock it down with
>> a stick, but then I'd be chased by angry yellowjackets. Is there some
>> liquid I can spray on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or
>> something)? Thanks!
>> --
>> -L
>
> This is the nest that typically ends up like a
> big upside down plate come summer? It's a paper
> wasp nest, not a yellow jacket nest -- the latter
> species builds nests underground, or in junk or logs
> on the ground. Paper wasps are nonagressive,
> do not readily attack, and are beneficial predators.
> No reason to evict them unless they're located
> very near human traffic. If so, take them down
> with a garden hose.

Interesting! I googled for paper wasps and yellow jackets. The yellow
jacket nest looks very different from a paper wasp nest (which looks
more honeycomb-shaped than like the flat yellow jacket nests). They
nest is right at the apex of my gable-roofed garage, so I'm afraid
there's too much human traffic near it for safety (both wasp and human).
--
-L

[Dioclese]

"Link" > wrote in message
news:2008052610255716807-subpopculture@gmailcom...
> Hello,
>
> I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves on my house.
> It's still small, so I'm looking for some recommendations to get rid of
> it. I put up a bee killer thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and
> it's caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by more bees
> than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I *could* knock it down with a
> stick, but then I'd be chased by angry yellowjackets. Is there some
> liquid I can spray on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or something)?
> Thanks!
> --
> -L
>

You're unlikely to be able to use a pump spray bottle on the nest without
being in proximity of the wasp's protective area. An old fashioned brass
water hose nozzle will make an effective water stream of sufficient
pressure, may knock the next down, and again, may not. A flat ended shovel,
if you hit the nest at its connection with the eave correctly, will work.
Common "hornet" aerosol may work with sufficient distance for some semblance
of safety from stings.

My grandpa used about 6 sheets of rolled up newspaper. Lit it off and
burned the nest out. He left a running water hose at the bottom of the
ladder. This always worked for him, he was rarely stung.
--
Dave

[enigma]

Father Haskell > wrote in

oups.com:

> On May 26, 1:25 pm, Link > wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves
>> on my house. It's still small, so I'm looking for some
>> recommendations to get rid of it. I put up a bee killer
>> thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and it's
>> caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by
>> more bees than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I
>> *could* knock it down with a stick, but then I'd be chased
>> by angry yellowjackets. Is there some liquid I can spray
>> on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or something)?
>> Thanks! --
>> -L
>
> This is the nest that typically ends up like a
> big upside down plate come summer? It's a paper
> wasp nest, not a yellow jacket nest -- the latter
> species builds nests underground, or in junk or logs
> on the ground. Paper wasps are nonagressive,
> do not readily attack, and are beneficial predators.
> No reason to evict them unless they're located
> very near human traffic. If so, take them down
> with a garden hose.

there are arboreal yellowjackets, which build their nests in
trees or under eaves. they appear nonaggressive until late
summer, & then they become *very* aggressive.
i agree that paper wasps should be left alone, but
yellowjackets are an introduced pest & killing them is a good
idea (especially if you want to be within 100 yards of the
nest at any time)
lee


--
Last night while sitting in my chair
I pinged a host that wasn't there
It wasn't there again today
The host resolved to NSA.

[Dan L.]

In article >,
enigma > wrote:

> Father Haskell > wrote in
>
> oups.com:
>
> > On May 26, 1:25 pm, Link > wrote:
> >> Hello,
> >>
> >> I have a yellowjacket next forming under one of the eves
> >> on my house. It's still small, so I'm looking for some
> >> recommendations to get rid of it. I put up a bee killer
> >> thing (those yellow cylindrical things), and it's
> >> caught/killed a couple, but the nest is still guarded by
> >> more bees than I feel comfortable taking on myself. I
> >> *could* knock it down with a stick, but then I'd be chased
> >> by angry yellowjackets. Is there some liquid I can spray
> >> on them that'll kill them (like vinegar or something)?
> >> Thanks! --
> >> -L
> >
> > This is the nest that typically ends up like a
> > big upside down plate come summer? It's a paper
> > wasp nest, not a yellow jacket nest -- the latter
> > species builds nests underground, or in junk or logs
> > on the ground. Paper wasps are nonagressive,
> > do not readily attack, and are beneficial predators.
> > No reason to evict them unless they're located
> > very near human traffic. If so, take them down
> > with a garden hose.
>
> there are arboreal yellowjackets, which build their nests in
> trees or under eaves. they appear nonaggressive until late
> summer, & then they become *very* aggressive.
> i agree that paper wasps should be left alone, but
> yellowjackets are an introduced pest & killing them is a good
> idea (especially if you want to be within 100 yards of the
> nest at any time)
> lee

Hmmm...

I use a 50 foot collapsible pole that is commonly used for paint
roller/duster extensions (most hardware stores have them). I tape a rag
on the end the long pole and knock them down. Then I spray the area with
the wasp spray foams, not just spray stuff. The foam leaves a residue
that keeps the wasp away for longer periods of time. I recommend a stiff
pole that does not flex too much.

Actually the process for me goes like this: Spray first - then run,
Knock down nest - then run again, Spray again - run even faster for the
benydrl :)

I am an expert at stirring up a hornets nest (metaphorically speaking).

Enjoy Life ... Dan

--
Email "dan lehr at comcast dot net". Text only or goes to trash automatically.

[Phisherman[_1_]]

Get a can of wasp/hornet spray which will allow you to deliver a
stream up to 20 feet away. Wait until sundown; bees don't like to fly
after dark. The next day you can inspect the nest for inactivity,
then safely knock it down without any risk of attack.

[Father Haskell]

On May 27, 7:44 am, enigma > wrote:
>
> there are arboreal yellowjackets, which build their nests in
> trees or under eaves. they appear nonaggressive until late
> summer, & then they become *very* aggressive.
> i agree that paper wasps should be left alone, but
> yellowjackets are an introduced pest & killing them is a good
> idea (especially if you want to be within 100 yards of the
> nest at any time)
> lee

What size, color? Paper wasps are large, black and rust red.
Yellow jackets are small, black and yellow. Been stung
after running over a yellow jacket nest with a mower.
No worse effects than a few sharp pinpricks, followed by
match head sized welts that faded after 20 minutes.

[enigma]

Father Haskell > wrote in

ups.com:

> On May 27, 7:44 am, enigma > wrote:
>>
>> there are arboreal yellowjackets, which build their nests
>> in
>> trees or under eaves. they appear nonaggressive until late
>> summer, & then they become *very* aggressive.
>> i agree that paper wasps should be left alone, but
>> yellowjackets are an introduced pest & killing them is a
>> good idea (especially if you want to be within 100 yards
>> of the nest at any time)
>> lee
>
> What size, color? Paper wasps are large, black and rust
> red. Yellow jackets are small, black and yellow. Been
> stung after running over a yellow jacket nest with a mower.
> No worse effects than a few sharp pinpricks, followed by
> match head sized welts that faded after 20 minutes.

good for you. you aren't allergic... yet.
i know what a yellowjacket looks like. i know what both the
underground & arboreal nests look like. the skunk that lives
under the barn takes care of any underground yellowjackets
quite well. i take care of any arboreal nests that are in
any area where they might impact humans or livestock. if
they build one off in the woodlot, that's not a problem, but
anything under eaves, the porch, the sheds or the barn are
going to be squashed as soon as they get started. there
really is no reason for yellowjackets to be in the US, so i
don't feel at all bad eradicating them.
lee
--
Last night while sitting in my chair
I pinged a host that wasn't there
It wasn't there again today
The host resolved to NSA.

[Father Haskell]

On May 27, 9:02 pm, enigma > wrote:
> Father Haskell > wrote
> ups.com:
>
>
>
> > On May 27, 7:44 am, enigma > wrote:
>
> >> there are arboreal yellowjackets, which build their nests
> >> in
> >> trees or under eaves. they appear nonaggressive until late
> >> summer, & then they become *very* aggressive.
> >> i agree that paper wasps should be left alone, but
> >> yellowjackets are an introduced pest & killing them is a
> >> good idea (especially if you want to be within 100 yards
> >> of the nest at any time)
> >> lee
>
> > What size, color? Paper wasps are large, black and rust
> > red. Yellow jackets are small, black and yellow. Been
> > stung after running over a yellow jacket nest with a mower.
> > No worse effects than a few sharp pinpricks, followed by
> > match head sized welts that faded after 20 minutes.
>
> good for you. you aren't allergic... yet.

Actually, I've *developed* immunity, probably from
being stung many times when I was a child. Effects
have diminished. The first several stings did indeed
cause swelling over large areas.

> i know what a yellowjacket looks like. i know what both the
> underground & arboreal nests look like. the skunk that lives
> under the barn takes care of any underground yellowjackets
> quite well. i take care of any arboreal nests that are in
> any area where they might impact humans or livestock. if
> they build one off in the woodlot, that's not a problem, but
> anything under eaves, the porch, the sheds or the barn are
> going to be squashed as soon as they get started. there
> really is no reason for yellowjackets to be in the US, so i
> don't feel at all bad eradicating them.

A lot of people don't know the difference, and are liable
to use pesticides unnecessarily. Notice how most people
refer to wasps or yellow jackets as "bees," which are another
(highly desirable) creature entirely.

[enigma]

Father Haskell > wrote in

oups.com:

> On May 27, 9:02 pm, enigma > wrote:
>> good for you. you aren't allergic... yet.
>
> Actually, I've *developed* immunity, probably from
> being stung many times when I was a child. Effects
> have diminished. The first several stings did indeed
> cause swelling over large areas.

the usual progression would be from having little reaction to
developing worsening reactions as one was exposed to more
stings. however, if you went several years without getting
stung, perhaps that contributed to the immunity. i'm finding
that i'm getting *much* worse reactions to yelowjacket stings
now. when i was a kid, it was just a prick & a minor bump that
faded withing hours. now, it's a prick, a huge swelling that
that lasts weeks & itches like mad... (OTOH, my poison ivy
reaction is getting less as i age)
> A lot of people don't know the difference, and are liable
> to use pesticides unnecessarily. Notice how most people
> refer to wasps or yellow jackets as "bees," which are
> another (highly desirable) creature entirely.

yes, well, most people are pretty ignorant & proud of it. i
try to avoid them ;)
i have a 62 acre farm, which i try to keep as organic as
possible... although i really need an organic chicken lice
remedy that works... :p
lee
--
Last night while sitting in my chair
I pinged a host that wasn't there
It wasn't there again today
The host resolved to NSA.

[Bill[_13_]]

In article >,
enigma > wrote:


> i have a 62 acre farm, which i try to keep as organic as
> possible... although i really need an organic chicken lice
> remedy that works... :p
> lee

Perhaps of interest?

Bill

J Econ Entomol. 2008 Apr;101(2):637-46.
Links

Temperature and humidity effects on off-host survival of the Northern
fowl mite (Acari: Macronyssidae) and the chicken body louse
(Phthiraptera: Menoponidae).
Chen BL, Mullens BA.
Department of Entomology, University of California, Riverside, CA 92521,
USA.

Off-host survival of the northern fowl mite, Ornithonyssus sylviarum
(Canestrini & Fanzago) (Acari: Macronyssidae), and the chicken body
louse, Menacanthus stramineus (Nitzsch) (Phthiraptera: Menoponidae), was
studied at 12 combinations of temperature (15, 21, 27, and 33 degrees C)
and humidity (31, 65, and 85% RH). Mite protonymphs and louse third
instars survived longer on average than the respective adult stages.
Higher temperatures significantly reduced survival of adult and immature
stages of both ectoparasites, whereas relative humidity had significant
effects on O. sylviarum (especially protonymphs) but not M. stramineus.
The LT50 values for adult northern fowl mites ranged from 1.9 (at 33
degrees C, 31%RH) to 8.3 d (at 15 degrees C, 85%RH), LT50 values for
mite protonymphs ranged from 2.0 (at 33 degrees C, 31%RH) to 18.1 d (at
15 degrees C, 85%RH), LT50 values for adult lice ranged from 0.5 (at 33
degrees C, 31%RH) to 1.7 d (at 15 degrees C, 65%RH), and LT50 values for
nymphal lice ranged from 1.2 (at 33 degrees C, 65%RH) to 3.3 d (at 21
degrees C, 31%RH). Maximum survival of the northern fowl mite was up to
35 d for adults and 29 d for protonymphs. Maximum survival for the
chicken body louse was 3.3 d for adults and 5.8 d for nymphs. The data
provide minimum guidelines for leaving poultry houses vacant long enough
to allow ectoparasites to die before introduction of subsequent new
flocks.
PMID: 18459434 [PubMed - in process

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA
Neat place .. http://www.petersvalley.org/