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#16
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
Nic I live in Sydney and we get summer temperatures much in excess of 30,
last year a couple of 45 degree days. I only use a shade cloth rig which gets put on for the hottest of the summer period and I keep only the least hardy plants, maples, privet, hawthorn etc under it. So far I have not had to worry about water as we can still hand water. I have heard of some people using something like the stuff( I not sure what it is) that is used to line wire hanging baskets to keep moisture loss down. Lynette Sydney Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nicolas Steenhout" To: Sent: Monday, 15 December 2003 6:55 Subject: [IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions... Any feedback on this greatly appreciated :-) nic ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#17
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
The stuff you're referring to is called sphagnum moss. It's a very good
moisture retainer, but be careful when using it. Sometimes it harbors bacteria which may make you pretty sick if you have a tiny cut in your hands through which the bacteria can enter. Use latex gloves when using it. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "lynette g smith" To: Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 6:59 PM Subject: [IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions... Nic I live in Sydney and we get summer temperatures much in excess of 30, last year a couple of 45 degree days. I only use a shade cloth rig which gets put on for the hottest of the summer period and I keep only the least hardy plants, maples, privet, hawthorn etc under it. So far I have not had to worry about water as we can still hand water. I have heard of some people using something like the stuff( I not sure what it is) that is used to line wire hanging baskets to keep moisture loss down. Lynette Sydney Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nicolas Steenhout" To: Sent: Monday, 15 December 2003 6:55 Subject: [IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions... Any feedback on this greatly appreciated :-) nic ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ************************** **** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#18
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
Marty said:
The stuff you're referring to is called sphagnum moss. It could also be coir, the fiber off of coconuts. It's used to line hanging planters, and also as a soil additive. Some of my extension buddies have tested it and found anti-root rot effects, although nothing very significant (and sphagnum also has anti- fungal effects). It isn't as water-retentive as sphagnum, but it can be used as a mulch, and in countries with coconut industries, it is a cheap material (and using it is more ecologically sound than using sphagnum). Nina. Who has now said everything she knows about coir, so don't ask me any questions. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#19
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
I sometimes use coir as a base for orchids, especially those which are
arborial. Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nina Shishkoff" To: "Marty Haber" ; Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:18 AM Subject: [IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions... Marty said: The stuff you're referring to is called sphagnum moss. It could also be coir, the fiber off of coconuts. It's used to line hanging planters, and also as a soil additive. Some of my extension buddies have tested it and found anti-root rot effects, although nothing very significant (and sphagnum also has anti-fungal effects). It isn't as water-retentive as sphagnum, but it can be used as a mulch, and in countries with coconut industries, it is a cheap material (and using it is more ecologically sound than using sphagnum). Nina. Who has now said everything she knows about coir, so don't ask me any questions. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#20
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
Marty said:
The stuff you're referring to is called sphagnum moss. It could also be coir, the fiber off of coconuts. It's used to line hanging planters, and also as a soil additive. Some of my extension buddies have tested it and found anti-root rot effects, although nothing very significant (and sphagnum also has anti-fungal effects). It isn't as water-retentive as sphagnum, but it can be used as a mulch, and in countries with coconut industries, it is a cheap material (and using it is more ecologically sound than using sphagnum). Nina. Who has now said everything she knows about coir, so don't ask me any questions. I have heard or read somewhere that coir turns into slush as it decomposes??????? So, at least be careful. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only to the white man was nature a wilderness -- Luther Standing Bear (Ogallala Sioux Chief) ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#21
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
I have heard or read somewhere that coir turns into slush as it
decomposes??????? Hmmm. Don't know; cocoa mulch turns to slime; I know that from some mulch experiments I did. The coir didn't, but my experiment only went for a few months. Nina Shishkoff ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#22
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
In a message dated 12/17/2003 3:01:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: I have heard or read somewhere that coir turns into slush as it decomposes??????? Hmmm. Don't know; cocoa mulch turns to slime; I know that from some mulch experiments I did. The coir didn't, but my experiment only went for a few months. I am not sure I would call it "slush" but if left too long "coir" does break down into a "mud." Billy on the Florida Space Coast Bonsai Societies of Florida Annual Convention Memorial Day Weekend 2004 Radisson Hotel, Cape Canaveral, Florida www.bonsaisocietyofbrevard.org ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Jarbas Godoy ++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#23
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[IBC] Soil, heat, and watering restrictions...
"Nicolas Steenhout" wrote in message... Would love to hear from folks that have been dealing with watering restrictions and fairly high heat during day time as to what they've gone to for soil. Welcome to the Southern Hemisphere, don't move to Australia if you're finding NZ difficult ;-)) This is more of a stream of conciousness thing. I'm in Perth, Western Australia. We have watering restrictions - they are sprinklers may only be used twice a week on set days, before 9am and after 6pm. Hand water is ok. Join my bonsai club and you can run one sprinkler station (multiple sprinkler heads/misters/sprayers) once a day, everyday but ONLY for bonsai, ie. you need a defined 'bonsai area'. I'm bone lazy and know buggerawl about sprinkler systems, so I hand water. First off protect the trees from the wind. Try not to place trees on paving or 'natural' stone 'features', otherwise they'll cook from both directions. Nestling them in around ferns/short, soft ground cover 'herbacious' like plants seems to work well. Under shade trees is great, the intensity of light here in Australia is such that quite heavy shade will still give your trees adequate light. With temps from 25 to ~31degC you'll probably get away with only one watering in the mid morning to noon-time. Any hotter and unless your trees are under shade (shade cloth is great stuff, many of my fellow club members use it - I don't as my place has lots of 'shade trees') and NOT on bricks -- you will have to water more. Twice a day - mid morning and mid to late afternoon is usually sufficient 35degC on up and you are hand watering 3 times or more per day. One year in Perth we had 1 MONTH where the temp was 39degC or higher (mostly higher). Being a uni student then, new to the hobby and trees on bricks (but under shade) - I had the time to water 3 times per day (more if it was really hot). The trees (maple, junipers, pommegranates, chinese elm and paperbark aka Melealucca sp?) all survived well (maple leaves went crispy though). With some trees I layered old leaves of anything on top of the pots to help prevent/retard evaporation. Nowadays having had a whole 3 or so more years (!*S*) of trees in pots and siting the trees better (under shade, on vegetation), they survive and thrive on 1 heavy watering per day. Very high temps, 35+, I may or may not water again in the evening (often in WA the temp can *reach* 40 at 5pm). I realize it's a very personal matter and might vary from tree type to another. In the past, I've used fast draining soil (with more or less organics in it). But that needs more regular watering. I am now facing some rather high UV levels (highest in the world, arguably), heat, sun, etc. While we haven't gone into watering restrictions yet, this is looming closer and closer. My soils are pretty fast draining, try expanding the organic content. If you have a large back/front yard which is established/tough, investigate using grey water for irrigation (NB in some areas of Australia this is illegal/restricted, NZ may have restrictions also). For a newly established/establishing garden - try to put off establishing it until later , mulch really well, pick the water efficient plants, use 'wetting agents', establish drip irrigation where necessary (either running off your garden hose/s or mains fed) and to some extent 'bite the bullet' and water. Any feedback on this greatly appreciated :-) nic Do you have any pics of the garden Nic? Cheers, Heidi Aussie |
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