I have been lurking for a while now, taking advantage of all the
erudition and wisdom this group has to offer without having to expose
myself and my ignorance. But I guess all good things (or at least easy
things) must end and I need to impose on you to help me solve a problem.

I need some advice on the proper procedure for separating a layered
larch. The tree is a Larix kaempferi that is approx. five years old and
is the first tree I have ever successfully layered, that is, it is the
first tree I have managed to get to root by this method. It has produced
four or five rather blunt, matchstick diameter roots of approximately a
half inch in length. These roots are white with red tips. There are no
fine root hairs, just these rather coarse looking roots poking through
the sphagnum moss and out to the clear plastic in which it is wrapped.

My question is this: What do I do now?

Do I cut it and plant it in my regular mix that I use for cuttings
(coarse sand, lava rock, turface, and perlite) or do I wait for more and
finer roots to develop in the sphagnum.

Temperatures here (Vancouver, Canada) have been very warm lately - 25 to
30 celsius (I'm guessing 80 to 90 farenheit) during the hottest part of
the day. If I cut it now, should I keep it in the shade for a while?
(The layering process has taken place in full midday sun).

If I separate it now, how long should I wait before starting to
fertilize my new tree?

I have checked the archives but either my search terms are wrong or
questions and answers about layering end with wrapping up the moss and
keeping it moist because aI cannot find anything about timing, planting,
soil type, etc. so if anyone can advise me here, I would really
appreciate it.

And, yes, I do plan to contact and perhaps join a local club in the near
future. I just don't want my larch to die in the meantime.

Thanx in advance for your help,
Les

Hi Les,

Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the list
going.

Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of
patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely brittle and
unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size greater than
matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it is and
watered when necessary for at least a couple of months, preferably
longer.

If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could
(extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of sphagnum
at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one. Then
re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as the young
roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an advantage!

When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling around
inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This would be
best done after leaf fall or in spring.

A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've found that
the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to the pot.
ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't attempt to
do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I leave it a
year so they have a chance to harden a little.

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales


I have been lurking for a while now, taking advantage of all the
erudition and wisdom this group has to offer without having to expose
myself and my ignorance. But I guess all good things (or at least easy
things) must end and I need to impose on you to help me solve a problem.

I need some advice on the proper procedure for separating a layered
larch. The tree is a Larix kaempferi that is approx. five years old and
is the first tree I have ever successfully layered, that is, it is the
first tree I have managed to get to root by this method. It has produced
four or five rather blunt, matchstick diameter roots of approximately a
half inch in length. These roots are white with red tips. There are no
fine root hairs, just these rather coarse looking roots poking through
the sphagnum moss and out to the clear plastic in which it is wrapped.

My question is this: What do I do now?

Do I cut it and plant it in my regular mix that I use for cuttings
(coarse sand, lava rock, turface, and perlite) or do I wait for more and
finer roots to develop in the sphagnum.

Temperatures here (Vancouver, Canada) have been very warm lately - 25 to
30 celsius (I'm guessing 80 to 90 farenheit) during the hottest part of
the day. If I cut it now, should I keep it in the shade for a while?
(The layering process has taken place in full midday sun).

If I separate it now, how long should I wait before starting to
fertilize my new tree?

I have checked the archives but either my search terms are wrong or
questions and answers about layering end with wrapping up the moss and
keeping it moist because aI cannot find anything about timing, planting,
soil type, etc. so if anyone can advise me here, I would really
appreciate it.

And, yes, I do plan to contact and perhaps join a local club in the near
future. I just don't want my larch to die in the meantime.

Thanx in advance for your help,
Les



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************************************************** ******************************
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Hi Les,

Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the list
going.

Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of
patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely brittle and
unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size greater than
matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it is and
watered when necessary for at least a couple of months, preferably
longer.

If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could
(extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of sphagnum
at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one. Then
re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as the young
roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an advantage!

When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling around
inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This would be
best done after leaf fall or in spring.

A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've found that
the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to the pot.
ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't attempt to
do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I leave it a
year so they have a chance to harden a little.

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales


I have been lurking for a while now, taking advantage of all the
erudition and wisdom this group has to offer without having to expose
myself and my ignorance. But I guess all good things (or at least easy
things) must end and I need to impose on you to help me solve a problem.

I need some advice on the proper procedure for separating a layered
larch. The tree is a Larix kaempferi that is approx. five years old and
is the first tree I have ever successfully layered, that is, it is the
first tree I have managed to get to root by this method. It has produced
four or five rather blunt, matchstick diameter roots of approximately a
half inch in length. These roots are white with red tips. There are no
fine root hairs, just these rather coarse looking roots poking through
the sphagnum moss and out to the clear plastic in which it is wrapped.

My question is this: What do I do now?

Do I cut it and plant it in my regular mix that I use for cuttings
(coarse sand, lava rock, turface, and perlite) or do I wait for more and
finer roots to develop in the sphagnum.

Temperatures here (Vancouver, Canada) have been very warm lately - 25 to
30 celsius (I'm guessing 80 to 90 farenheit) during the hottest part of
the day. If I cut it now, should I keep it in the shade for a while?
(The layering process has taken place in full midday sun).

If I separate it now, how long should I wait before starting to
fertilize my new tree?

I have checked the archives but either my search terms are wrong or
questions and answers about layering end with wrapping up the moss and
keeping it moist because aI cannot find anything about timing, planting,
soil type, etc. so if anyone can advise me here, I would really
appreciate it.

And, yes, I do plan to contact and perhaps join a local club in the near
future. I just don't want my larch to die in the meantime.

Thanx in advance for your help,
Les



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.729 / Virus Database: 484 - Release Date: 27/07/2004

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Hi Les,

Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the
list
going.

Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of
patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely
brittle and
unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size
greater than
matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it
is and
watered when necessary for at least a couple of months,
preferably
longer.

If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could
(extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of
sphagnum
at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one.
Then
re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as
the young
roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an
advantage!

When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling
around
inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This
would be
best done after leaf fall or in spring.

A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've
found that
the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to
the pot.
ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't
attempt to
do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I
leave it a
year so they have a chance to harden a little.

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales


I'd think, too, that up where he lives he'd need to give it a LOT
of winter protection so those new roots don't get damaged by the
cold. If I understand Larch (and I probably don't) they normally
need very little winter pampering. A new air layer will, I'd
think.

Some coldie please confirm for him?????

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thanx to Kevin and Jim for their attention on this matter.

Kevin, your advice on the procedure sounds good. Without it I probably
would have cut much too soon and ruined the tree.

Jim, it is zone 8 up here which, according to a website I visited today,
makes its average low temp in the winter comparable to Houston and
Dallas. But I'll move it into the potting shed around the middle of
November just to be safe.


In article 006401c47570$75040080$82102cc7@pavilion,
(Jim Lewis) wrote:

Hi Les,

Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the
list
going.

Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of
patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely
brittle and
unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size
greater than
matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it
is and
watered when necessary for at least a couple of months,
preferably
longer.

If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could
(extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of
sphagnum
at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one.
Then
re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as
the young
roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an
advantage!

When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling
around
inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This
would be
best done after leaf fall or in spring.

A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've
found that
the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to
the pot.
ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't
attempt to
do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I
leave it a
year so they have a chance to harden a little.

Cheers

Kev Bailey
Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales


I'd think, too, that up where he lives he'd need to give it a LOT
of winter protection so those new roots don't get damaged by the
cold. If I understand Larch (and I probably don't) they normally
need very little winter pampering. A new air layer will, I'd
think.

Some coldie please confirm for him?????

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

************************************************** ****************************
**
++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++
************************************************** ****************************
**
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Jim, it is zone 8 up here which, according to a website I
visited today,
makes its average low temp in the winter comparable to Houston
and
Dallas. But I'll move it into the potting shed around the
middle of
November just to be safe.

I'm in zone 8, too. But it does get cold here for brief
periods -- brief, but long enough to kill a tender set of roots.
I have had it as low as 8 degrees F on my front porch (covered!)
and on occasion have had periods where temps failed to rise above
freezing for 4-5 days. We have several days in the teens every
year (except last year).

Your biggest problem with the larch in zone 8, I suspect, may be
summer heat.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where
people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and
its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it
should have - Paul Bigelow Sears.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++