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#1
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separating a larch air layer
I have been lurking for a while now, taking advantage of all the
erudition and wisdom this group has to offer without having to expose myself and my ignorance. But I guess all good things (or at least easy things) must end and I need to impose on you to help me solve a problem. I need some advice on the proper procedure for separating a layered larch. The tree is a Larix kaempferi that is approx. five years old and is the first tree I have ever successfully layered, that is, it is the first tree I have managed to get to root by this method. It has produced four or five rather blunt, matchstick diameter roots of approximately a half inch in length. These roots are white with red tips. There are no fine root hairs, just these rather coarse looking roots poking through the sphagnum moss and out to the clear plastic in which it is wrapped. My question is this: What do I do now? Do I cut it and plant it in my regular mix that I use for cuttings (coarse sand, lava rock, turface, and perlite) or do I wait for more and finer roots to develop in the sphagnum. Temperatures here (Vancouver, Canada) have been very warm lately - 25 to 30 celsius (I'm guessing 80 to 90 farenheit) during the hottest part of the day. If I cut it now, should I keep it in the shade for a while? (The layering process has taken place in full midday sun). If I separate it now, how long should I wait before starting to fertilize my new tree? I have checked the archives but either my search terms are wrong or questions and answers about layering end with wrapping up the moss and keeping it moist because aI cannot find anything about timing, planting, soil type, etc. so if anyone can advise me here, I would really appreciate it. And, yes, I do plan to contact and perhaps join a local club in the near future. I just don't want my larch to die in the meantime. Thanx in advance for your help, Les |
#2
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[IBC] separating a larch air layer
Hi Les,
Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the list going. Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely brittle and unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size greater than matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it is and watered when necessary for at least a couple of months, preferably longer. If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could (extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of sphagnum at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one. Then re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as the young roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an advantage! When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling around inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This would be best done after leaf fall or in spring. A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've found that the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to the pot. ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't attempt to do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I leave it a year so they have a chance to harden a little. Cheers Kev Bailey Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales I have been lurking for a while now, taking advantage of all the erudition and wisdom this group has to offer without having to expose myself and my ignorance. But I guess all good things (or at least easy things) must end and I need to impose on you to help me solve a problem. I need some advice on the proper procedure for separating a layered larch. The tree is a Larix kaempferi that is approx. five years old and is the first tree I have ever successfully layered, that is, it is the first tree I have managed to get to root by this method. It has produced four or five rather blunt, matchstick diameter roots of approximately a half inch in length. These roots are white with red tips. There are no fine root hairs, just these rather coarse looking roots poking through the sphagnum moss and out to the clear plastic in which it is wrapped. My question is this: What do I do now? Do I cut it and plant it in my regular mix that I use for cuttings (coarse sand, lava rock, turface, and perlite) or do I wait for more and finer roots to develop in the sphagnum. Temperatures here (Vancouver, Canada) have been very warm lately - 25 to 30 celsius (I'm guessing 80 to 90 farenheit) during the hottest part of the day. If I cut it now, should I keep it in the shade for a while? (The layering process has taken place in full midday sun). If I separate it now, how long should I wait before starting to fertilize my new tree? I have checked the archives but either my search terms are wrong or questions and answers about layering end with wrapping up the moss and keeping it moist because aI cannot find anything about timing, planting, soil type, etc. so if anyone can advise me here, I would really appreciate it. And, yes, I do plan to contact and perhaps join a local club in the near future. I just don't want my larch to die in the meantime. Thanx in advance for your help, Les --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.729 / Virus Database: 484 - Release Date: 27/07/2004 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#3
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[IBC] separating a larch air layer
Hi Les,
Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the list going. Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely brittle and unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size greater than matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it is and watered when necessary for at least a couple of months, preferably longer. If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could (extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of sphagnum at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one. Then re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as the young roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an advantage! When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling around inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This would be best done after leaf fall or in spring. A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've found that the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to the pot. ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't attempt to do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I leave it a year so they have a chance to harden a little. Cheers Kev Bailey Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales I have been lurking for a while now, taking advantage of all the erudition and wisdom this group has to offer without having to expose myself and my ignorance. But I guess all good things (or at least easy things) must end and I need to impose on you to help me solve a problem. I need some advice on the proper procedure for separating a layered larch. The tree is a Larix kaempferi that is approx. five years old and is the first tree I have ever successfully layered, that is, it is the first tree I have managed to get to root by this method. It has produced four or five rather blunt, matchstick diameter roots of approximately a half inch in length. These roots are white with red tips. There are no fine root hairs, just these rather coarse looking roots poking through the sphagnum moss and out to the clear plastic in which it is wrapped. My question is this: What do I do now? Do I cut it and plant it in my regular mix that I use for cuttings (coarse sand, lava rock, turface, and perlite) or do I wait for more and finer roots to develop in the sphagnum. Temperatures here (Vancouver, Canada) have been very warm lately - 25 to 30 celsius (I'm guessing 80 to 90 farenheit) during the hottest part of the day. If I cut it now, should I keep it in the shade for a while? (The layering process has taken place in full midday sun). If I separate it now, how long should I wait before starting to fertilize my new tree? I have checked the archives but either my search terms are wrong or questions and answers about layering end with wrapping up the moss and keeping it moist because aI cannot find anything about timing, planting, soil type, etc. so if anyone can advise me here, I would really appreciate it. And, yes, I do plan to contact and perhaps join a local club in the near future. I just don't want my larch to die in the meantime. Thanx in advance for your help, Les --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.729 / Virus Database: 484 - Release Date: 27/07/2004 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#4
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[IBC] separating a larch air layer
Hi Les,
Thanks for unlurking, it's questions like yours that keep the list going. Good start with the Larch but you now need to exercise a lot of patience. The white roots that you have noted are extremely brittle and unlikely to support (in every sense) a layer of any size greater than matchstick thick itself. The whole layer should be left as it is and watered when necessary for at least a couple of months, preferably longer. If roots are 1" and are touching the plastic already, you could (extremely carefully) remove the plastic, wrap another layer of sphagnum at least as much again in a ball shape around the existing one. Then re-wrap with plastic. This is a dangerous manoeuvre though as the young roots can easily be damaged. Two pairs of hands would be an advantage! When the roots have turned to creamish brown and are coiling around inside the layer is about the right time to remove it. This would be best done after leaf fall or in spring. A light and airy soil mix will help prevent any damage. I've found that the greatest aid to success after removal is secure tying to the pot. ANY movement at this stage usually leads to failure. I don't attempt to do any root sorting at first potting time, though some do. I leave it a year so they have a chance to harden a little. Cheers Kev Bailey Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales I'd think, too, that up where he lives he'd need to give it a LOT of winter protection so those new roots don't get damaged by the cold. If I understand Larch (and I probably don't) they normally need very little winter pampering. A new air layer will, I'd think. Some coldie please confirm for him????? Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests are like genealogists: We know our roots! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#6
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[IBC] separating a larch air layer
Jim, it is zone 8 up here which, according to a website I
visited today, makes its average low temp in the winter comparable to Houston and Dallas. But I'll move it into the potting shed around the middle of November just to be safe. I'm in zone 8, too. But it does get cold here for brief periods -- brief, but long enough to kill a tender set of roots. I have had it as low as 8 degrees F on my front porch (covered!) and on occasion have had periods where temps failed to rise above freezing for 4-5 days. We have several days in the teens every year (except last year). Your biggest problem with the larch in zone 8, I suspect, may be summer heat. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Only where people have learned to appreciate and cherish the landscape and its living cover will they treat it with the care and respect it should have - Paul Bigelow Sears. ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Chris Cochrane++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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