Hi everyone.
I have a Japanese Maple (thats all I know, not sure on particular variety).
Here in Australia were are into our 4th week of Spring, and my maple has not
yet thrown out leaves from the buds.
About 2 months ago I root pruned it, top pruned it. We don't get snow here,
and didn't even get a frost since then.
The buds have swollen, but the largest ones seemed to turn to dust,
literally. They went like a furry ball. Not a furry as in a growth on them,
but rather the surface of the bud turning to a "velour feel and look".
Smaller buds still look alive and fine. Scratching back bark from any part
of the tree, including fine twigs reveals green.
After reading and learning more on bonsai, this is the first year I have
taken care to root prune at the right time, the others was simply when I
felt like it using a spade to cut through the rootball, as they were in
large training pots.
Also, my elm which is yet to be correctly identified but beleived to be
chinese elm, was root pruned heavily, still alive but not yet thrown leaves
from shoots. However a quick check a few hours ago revealed a good sign of
bud swell. I am confident it will live.
Any ideas on the maple? Has it and the elm suffered slight setback from
heavy rootpruning?
Other deciduous including an English Elm (I think) and Liquidamber have new
growth on them, all are in same environment. Also all deciduous trees in the
area have new growth.
Thanks for any help.
Andrew
--
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia

On 23 Sep 2004 at 21:04, Andrew G wrote:

About 2 months ago I root pruned it, top pruned it. We don't get snow here,
and didn't even get a frost since then.
The buds have swollen, but the largest ones seemed to turn to dust,
literally. They went like a furry ball. Not a furry as in a growth on them,
but rather the surface of the bud turning to a "velour feel and look".
Smaller buds still look alive and fine. Scratching back bark from any part
of the tree, including fine twigs reveals green.
After reading and learning more on bonsai, this is the first year I have
taken care to root prune at the right time, the others was simply when I
felt like it using a spade to cut through the rootball, as they were in
large training pots.

Maybe too much root taken off? Maybe too much root and top work
at same time? Tho it flies in the face of ALL the advice you
receive (people and books), you do not need to "balance" bottom
work with top work. In fact, if you cut the top heavily, you
NEED roots to promote growth; if you cut too many roots, the
chopped-off top won't rejuvenate as well. Doing both worsens
the effect.

And, "2 months ago" sounds a bit early to me. I generally do
deciduous trees WHILE the buds are swelling.

But I'd guess your tree will survive, tho it may be a bit
retarded this year. Hold off on the water. A leafless tree
uses very little water. As leaves appear, you can water more,
but still let the soil go _almost_ dry before watering.
Fertilizing won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks.
Follow instructions on label.

If you can scrape an inch or so of soil off the top without
hurting new roots, you might want to top dress with a loose soil
containing finely chopped-up FRESH sphagnum moss to promote
rooting.

snip

Other deciduous including an English Elm (I think) and Liquidamber have new
growth on them, all are in same environment. Also all deciduous trees in the
area have new growth.

Immaterial. Yard trees will almost always leaf out before
potted trees, and different species show leaves at different
times. It doesn't happen on day 2 of spring. ;-)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

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On 23 Sep 2004 at 21:04, Andrew G wrote:

About 2 months ago I root pruned it, top pruned it. We don't get snow here,
and didn't even get a frost since then.
The buds have swollen, but the largest ones seemed to turn to dust,
literally. They went like a furry ball. Not a furry as in a growth on them,
but rather the surface of the bud turning to a "velour feel and look".
Smaller buds still look alive and fine. Scratching back bark from any part
of the tree, including fine twigs reveals green.
After reading and learning more on bonsai, this is the first year I have
taken care to root prune at the right time, the others was simply when I
felt like it using a spade to cut through the rootball, as they were in
large training pots.

Maybe too much root taken off? Maybe too much root and top work
at same time? Tho it flies in the face of ALL the advice you
receive (people and books), you do not need to "balance" bottom
work with top work. In fact, if you cut the top heavily, you
NEED roots to promote growth; if you cut too many roots, the
chopped-off top won't rejuvenate as well. Doing both worsens
the effect.

And, "2 months ago" sounds a bit early to me. I generally do
deciduous trees WHILE the buds are swelling.

But I'd guess your tree will survive, tho it may be a bit
retarded this year. Hold off on the water. A leafless tree
uses very little water. As leaves appear, you can water more,
but still let the soil go _almost_ dry before watering.
Fertilizing won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks.
Follow instructions on label.

If you can scrape an inch or so of soil off the top without
hurting new roots, you might want to top dress with a loose soil
containing finely chopped-up FRESH sphagnum moss to promote
rooting.

snip

Other deciduous including an English Elm (I think) and Liquidamber have new
growth on them, all are in same environment. Also all deciduous trees in the
area have new growth.

Immaterial. Yard trees will almost always leaf out before
potted trees, and different species show leaves at different
times. It doesn't happen on day 2 of spring. ;-)

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests
are like genealogists: We know our roots!

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++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Hi Everybody

In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote," Fertilizing
won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on label."
I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery. A
week medium certainly helps in stimulating the roots as they grow in all
directions in search of nutrition. Once new foliage begins to grow, one can
apply small doses of fertilizers and can gradually increase as the growth
picks up.

Anil Kaushik
Bonsai Club (India)
Chandigarh.

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Hi Everybody

In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote," Fertilizing
won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on label."
I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery. A
week medium certainly helps in stimulating the roots as they grow in all
directions in search of nutrition. Once new foliage begins to grow, one can
apply small doses of fertilizers and can gradually increase as the growth
picks up.

Anil Kaushik
Bonsai Club (India)
Chandigarh.

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

On 24 Sep 2004 at 20:00, Anil Kaushik wrote:

Hi Everybody

In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote," Fertilizing
won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on label."
I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery. A
week medium certainly helps in stimulating the roots as they grow in all
directions in search of nutrition. Once new foliage begins to grow, one can
apply small doses of fertilizers and can gradually increase as the growth
picks up.


Well, he said it has been 2 months since the surgery, so even if
it IS damaging to fertilize after root work -- and I do not
think it is -- enough time would have passed.

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then
or any other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has
managed to provide me with the science behind any of them.

I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the
fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

On 24 Sep 2004 at 20:00, Anil Kaushik wrote:

Hi Everybody

In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote," Fertilizing
won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on label."
I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery. A
week medium certainly helps in stimulating the roots as they grow in all
directions in search of nutrition. Once new foliage begins to grow, one can
apply small doses of fertilizers and can gradually increase as the growth
picks up.


Well, he said it has been 2 months since the surgery, so even if
it IS damaging to fertilize after root work -- and I do not
think it is -- enough time would have passed.

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then
or any other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has
managed to provide me with the science behind any of them.

I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the
fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then or any
other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has managed to provide me with
the science behind any of them.
I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the fertilizer
according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

Is it possible that timing and strength of fertilizer may be influenced by
climate & seasons? What is appropriate in Florida in the summer may be
overfeeding in Toronto in the fall.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming
train."
Robert Lowell (1917-1977)

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then or any
other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has managed to provide me with
the science behind any of them.
I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the fertilizer
according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

Is it possible that timing and strength of fertilizer may be influenced by
climate & seasons? What is appropriate in Florida in the summer may be
overfeeding in Toronto in the fall.
Iris,
Central NY, Zone 5a, Sunset Zone 40
"If we see light at the end of the tunnel, It's the light of the oncoming
train."
Robert Lowell (1917-1977)

Thanks to everyone who helped.
I had never paid attention to the buds on the maple before in regards to the
changes they go through when opening.
As mentioned in my OP, the larger buds were turning furry, smaller ones
seemed ok.
Well the smaller ones were a dark red/maroon colour and still are. However
some of the larger ones that had gone furry are now larger and you can see
leaves in them. Well I think anyway, they are opening.
So it was just a matter of I was taking more care, looking at them closer
this year, and what is a normal change I thought was some disease.
Also, the Elm's buds are showing signs of green popping out today.
It might be worth adding the past 2 days have been unseasonally warm, with
temps reaching around 28 degs celcius. Below average for summer, but for the
first month of spring, very hot.
Cheers
Andrew
--
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia

Thanks to everyone who helped.
I had never paid attention to the buds on the maple before in regards to the
changes they go through when opening.
As mentioned in my OP, the larger buds were turning furry, smaller ones
seemed ok.
Well the smaller ones were a dark red/maroon colour and still are. However
some of the larger ones that had gone furry are now larger and you can see
leaves in them. Well I think anyway, they are opening.
So it was just a matter of I was taking more care, looking at them closer
this year, and what is a normal change I thought was some disease.
Also, the Elm's buds are showing signs of green popping out today.
It might be worth adding the past 2 days have been unseasonally warm, with
temps reaching around 28 degs celcius. Below average for summer, but for the
first month of spring, very hot.
Cheers
Andrew
--
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message
news:41544117.23844.E691B@localhost...

Well, he said it has been 2 months since the surgery, so even if
it IS damaging to fertilize after root work -- and I do not
think it is -- enough time would have passed.

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then
or any other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has
managed to provide me with the science behind any of them.

I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the
fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

I know from me, relatively a newbie to this, it may not come as sound
evidence, but I too cannot see the problem with fertilising after repotting.
I have always done it with no problems, especially too when some ferts along
the lines of seasol/seaweed based ones suggest it is good for transplant
shock.
This year after repotting I read a book within a few days not to fertlise
after repotting. Too late for me, I had done it, as with the past 4 years.
It didn't say it would kill them, but they may suffer.
What happened with the maple and elm being late in shooting I'm not sure. I
will put it down to a combination of elms naturally being late (as another
poster suggested), and the heavy rootpruning I did. I'm just glad the maple
wasn't suffering some disease problem, and that it was just a natural
process as I found out.
Cheers
Andrew
--
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia


Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson


************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++

************************************************** **************************
****
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

"Jim Lewis" wrote in message
news:41544117.23844.E691B@localhost...

Well, he said it has been 2 months since the surgery, so even if
it IS damaging to fertilize after root work -- and I do not
think it is -- enough time would have passed.

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then
or any other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has
managed to provide me with the science behind any of them.

I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the
fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

I know from me, relatively a newbie to this, it may not come as sound
evidence, but I too cannot see the problem with fertilising after repotting.
I have always done it with no problems, especially too when some ferts along
the lines of seasol/seaweed based ones suggest it is good for transplant
shock.
This year after repotting I read a book within a few days not to fertlise
after repotting. Too late for me, I had done it, as with the past 4 years.
It didn't say it would kill them, but they may suffer.
What happened with the maple and elm being late in shooting I'm not sure. I
will put it down to a combination of elms naturally being late (as another
poster suggested), and the heavy rootpruning I did. I'm just glad the maple
wasn't suffering some disease problem, and that it was just a natural
process as I found out.
Cheers
Andrew
--
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia


Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson


************************************************** **************************
****
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++

************************************************** **************************
****
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Jim and Michael

Thank you for your observations. It is a rather complex issue as to which,
when and how much fertilizer should be given to a plant. Here in India the
slandered practice is not to fertilize a freshly potted plant for 6 to 8
weeks. The compost which we use is one part coarse sand of inert grit, one
part well rotted dung manure or leaf mold and one part fertile soil in which
everything can grow. This kind of compost has sufficient nutrition to last
for about two months. Thereafter depending upon the plant whether it is a
conifer or a deciduous one, slow growing or fast, the recommended dose of
fertilizer is started. It can be daily (parts per million), weekly or
fortnightly but only as long the plant is in active growth. As a rule of
thumb, fertilize and water a plant when it is hungry and thirsty. The plant
should not be forced to grow. Otherwise the size of leaves will become big
and color and texture will become unnatural. To stimulate the roots in a
freshly root-pruned plant, we pot it in a weak medium. Once new roots
develop which is reflected on the foliage, fertilizers applied in small
dozes. In a week and porous medium, the roots develop very well. They
spread in all direction in search of nutrition. But if they get every thing
right at the door, what is need to spread to other areas. The more the roots
develop, the more will be the root hairs and better will be the absorbing
capacity of the roots, and the better will be the plant health. Full fat
milk taken in large quantity, may not be good for health but fully toned
milk or buttermilk, will cause no harm.

The type of fertilizer you apply must be very week. And I think even if you
overdose the plant, it will remain unaffected.
I wander how genuine these commercial fertilizers are! Once I got a popular
fertilizer analyzed in a lab. the results were shocking! It had an analysis
of 1.2 - .75 - .62 N P K. Since then we have started making our own
fertilizer based on the recipe of Prof. Amy Lang, using 7 parts oil dregs, 3
parts bone-meal and 1 part wood ash and once it is fermented and cured it is
an excellent stuff.

Coming back again on the fertilizing a freshly root-pruned plant, I will
request Nina to throw some light on this point. Please Nina!

Anil Kaushik
Bonsai Club (India)
Chandigarh : "The City Beautiful"




Hi Everybody

In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote,"
Fertilizing
won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on
label."
I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery.
A
week medium certainly helps in stimulating the roots as they grow in all
directions in search of nutrition. Once new foliage begins to grow, one
can
apply small doses of fertilizers and can gradually increase as the
growth
picks up.


Well, he said it has been 2 months since the surgery, so even if
it IS damaging to fertilize after root work -- and I do not
think it is -- enough time would have passed.

No fertilization after root work, use of dilute fertilizer (then
or any other time) are all (IMHO) bonsai myths. NO ONE has
managed to provide me with the science behind any of them.

I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the
fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any
problems therefrom.

Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Nature
encourages no looseness, pardons no errors. Ralph Waldo Emerson

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

First, Steve W (Hi Steve!) asked if there was a problem with landscape
japanese maples on Long Island. Well, yes. The problem is that
everyone plants them in full sun in the front yard, and then hits them
with the lawnmower. They do fine for years, until a cold winter or a
hot summer stresses them, and then they drop branches. The best
solution is frequent fertilization and good watering in hot summer
months with a soaker hose. Japanese maples are trees of the lower
canopy in the mountains of Japan, and really won't thrive in the
center of a lawn.

The Anil asked:

Coming back again on the fertilizing a freshly root-pruned plant, I
will request Nina to throw some light on this point. Please Nina!

Everything I know about fertilization I learned from Brent Walston,
who actually raises trees for a living. Me, I just have book
learnin'. Brent once wrote an extensive post on this subject, the
point being that a tree will take up only as much fertilizer as it has
the roots to take up, so the strength of the fertilizer after
transplanting is completely immaterial (assuming, of course, that you
aren't over-fertilizing to the point of toxicity). I will point out
that roots aren't intelligent; they don't grow out "looking" for
nutrients, they just grow out. The main factor influencing root
development is soil structure. A dense soil impedes root growth, and
anything that inhibits growth (dryness, lack of nutrients) will cause
poor root growth.

Nina