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#2
23-09-2004, 11:50 PM
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In a message dated 9/23/2004 7:15:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: Also, my elm which is yet to be correctly identified but beleived to be chinese elm, was root pruned heavily, still alive but not yet thrown leaves from shoots. However a quick check a few hours ago revealed a good sign of bud swell. I am confident it will live. Any ideas on the maple? Has it and the elm suffered slight setback from heavy rootpruning? Other deciduous including an English Elm (I think) and Liquidamber have new growth on them, all are in same environment. Also all deciduous trees in the area have new growth. Thanks for any help. Andrew Andrew: It is not unusual for Elms to product leaves late in the season. However, were both of these tree protected for the winter, i.e., placed under cover, or were they left outside to face the elements. Frequent freeze-thaw cycles can disrupt root pads and lead to this kind of problem. Cordially, Michael Persianio members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#3
24-09-2004, 04:40 AM
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I am in NY therefore I would not know if my situation would be the same as
yours . I have had a problem with Maples this growing season. I collect Japanese Maples, mostly Palmatums/.I lost several young trees this spring. for no apparent reason. I also noticed that some landscape Palmatumson Long Island with severe die back. For some reason leaves on certain branches were turning brown and dying. Branches next to dying branches appeared not to be affected. I have seen this repeatedly lately and I am concerned as to whether there is something contagious going around. SteveW LI NY ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#4
24-09-2004, 12:16 PM
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In a message dated 9/23/2004 11:40:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, STEVEW70146
writes: I also noticed that some landscape Palmatumson Long Island with severe die back. For some reason leaves on certain branches were turning brown and dying. Branches next to dying branches appeared not to be affected. I have seen this repeatedly lately and I am concerned as to whether there is something contagious going around. Steve: It "sounds" like a root zone problem, but it is hard to confirm this way. If the pad is solid, pop it out of the pot and inspect the roots. If the roots are black and lack white cores, you have a root rot problem. This can be cured by cutting back on the dead root until white cores appear. Next soak the pad in a Benomyl solution or comparable fungicide for 15 mintues. Repot the tree in fresh soil and place it in an area for the winter where it will not freeze. I would like to know what you are using for a soil mix and how often you water. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#5
24-09-2004, 12:16 PM
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In a message dated 9/23/2004 11:40:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, STEVEW70146
writes: I also noticed that some landscape Palmatumson Long Island with severe die back. For some reason leaves on certain branches were turning brown and dying. Branches next to dying branches appeared not to be affected. I have seen this repeatedly lately and I am concerned as to whether there is something contagious going around. Steve: It "sounds" like a root zone problem, but it is hard to confirm this way. If the pad is solid, pop it out of the pot and inspect the roots. If the roots are black and lack white cores, you have a root rot problem. This can be cured by cutting back on the dead root until white cores appear. Next soak the pad in a Benomyl solution or comparable fungicide for 15 mintues. Repot the tree in fresh soil and place it in an area for the winter where it will not freeze. I would like to know what you are using for a soil mix and how often you water. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#6
24-09-2004, 06:17 PM
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I use different fertilizers depending on when I am using it. i use a high nitrogen fert. in the spring. In the fall i use A low nitrogen fert in the late summer. I reduce the recommended dosage to 1/4 as indicated on the label and apply every 2 weeks. i use the low dosage so I can spread the fert over the summer. I use super Phosphate once a year on certain trees depending on their flowering season e.g azaleas crab apples Pyracantha
stevew LI NY ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#7
24-09-2004, 06:17 PM
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I use different fertilizers depending on when I am using it. i use a high nitrogen fert. in the spring. In the fall i use A low nitrogen fert in the late summer. I reduce the recommended dosage to 1/4 as indicated on the label and apply every 2 weeks. i use the low dosage so I can spread the fert over the summer. I use super Phosphate once a year on certain trees depending on their flowering season e.g azaleas crab apples Pyracantha
stevew LI NY ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#8
24-09-2004, 06:19 PM
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In a message dated 9/24/2004 1:01:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: Hi Everybody In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote," Fertilizing won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on label." I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery. Anil: Fertilizing will not harm the tree. The tree will only take what it can use. I recommend using Root2 to mitigate transplant shock. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#9
24-09-2004, 06:19 PM
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In a message dated 9/24/2004 1:01:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: Hi Everybody In a reply to Andrew's query on the above subject, Jim wrote," Fertilizing won't hurt at this time. Once every 2 weeks. Follow instructions on label." I doubt if it is advisable to fertilize so soon after a major surgery. Anil: Fertilizing will not harm the tree. The tree will only take what it can use. I recommend using Root2 to mitigate transplant shock. Cordially, Michael Persiano members.aol.com/iasnob ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#10
24-09-2004, 08:51 PM
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In a message dated 9/24/2004 3:46:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any problems therefrom. Ditto from Mr. Superfeeding on that. );-) Cordially, Michael Persiano ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#11
24-09-2004, 08:58 PM
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On 24 Sep 2004 at 15:51, Michael Persiano wrote:
In a message dated 9/24/2004 3:46:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes: I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any problems therefrom. Ditto from Mr. Superfeeding on that. );-) Cordially, Michael Persiano Ahhhh. Vindication! ;-) (But I still don't use Superthive ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests are like genealogists: We know our roots! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#12
24-09-2004, 08:58 PM
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On 24 Sep 2004 at 15:51, Michael Persiano wrote:
In a message dated 9/24/2004 3:46:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes: I routinely fertilize after repotting, and I always mix the fertilizer according to the label, and have never had any problems therefrom. Ditto from Mr. Superfeeding on that. );-) Cordially, Michael Persiano Ahhhh. Vindication! ;-) (But I still don't use Superthive ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Bonsaiests are like genealogists: We know our roots! ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#13
24-09-2004, 09:01 PM
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When I do surgery on a tree where I do heavy root pruning I hold back on fertilizer, but i do use Superthrive or B1 start up. on the roots, then wait about 30 days to fertilize.
Stevew LINY ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#14
24-09-2004, 09:01 PM
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When I do surgery on a tree where I do heavy root pruning I hold back on fertilizer, but i do use Superthrive or B1 start up. on the roots, then wait about 30 days to fertilize.
Stevew LINY ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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#15
24-09-2004, 11:15 PM
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In a message dated 9/24/2004 3:58:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
writes: Ahhhh. Vindication! ;-) (But I still don't use Superthive ;-) Ahhhh, but neither do I. );-)))) I am a Roots2 fanatic! Cordially, Michael ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Boon Manakitivipart++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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