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Pruning Fruit Trees
hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks
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#2
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Pruning Fruit Trees
Hi Tiffany,
Try the following web sites: http://www.redwoodbarn.com/DE_DormPrunefruit.html http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/backyardorchard.html and http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplo...ort/g06030.htm Hope this helps, Sherwin Dubren MIDFEX (Midwest Fruit Explorers) Tiffany wrote: hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks |
#3
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Pruning Fruit Trees
thank you all for the information
Sherwin Dubren wrote in message ... Hi Tiffany, Try the following web sites: http://www.redwoodbarn.com/DE_DormPrunefruit.html http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/backyardorchard.html and http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplo...ort/g06030.htm Hope this helps, Sherwin Dubren MIDFEX (Midwest Fruit Explorers) Tiffany wrote: hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks |
#4
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Pruning Fruit Trees
Hae you seen this stuff on own root fruit trees and the coppice
orchard idea? This project is based on the formerly unpublished work of Hugh Ermen, formerly of Brogdale Horticultural Experimental Station and now retired and breeding new varieties of fruit trees. Hugh discovered that there are several advantages in growing apples on their own roots [OR], i.e. not grafted onto a rootstock. (See below for pamphlets by Hugh Ermen) The advantages a - better health - although not altering the basic susceptibility of the variety to disease - fruit development is typical of the variety, giving:- best possible flavour best storage life - typical fruit size for the variety - best overall fruit quality - best fruit set, given adequate pollination. fruit from OR trees have more seeds, indicating increased fertility. It is highly likely that the degree of self-fertility is increased. The only disadvantage of OR trees is that most varieties are more vigorous than is usually wanted. This means that trees may make a lot of wood at the expense of fruit bud production, giving big trees that take a long time to come into crop. Conventionally this vigour would be controlled by grafting onto a dwarfing rootstock. With OR trees a number of traditional techniques are used to induce early cropping. Once cropping begins the tree's energies are channeled into fruit production and growth slows down to a controllable level. for more try http://members.lycos.co.uk/orft |
#5
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Pruning Fruit Trees
"Tiffany" wrote in message .. .
hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks I need advice on pruning 2 super sweet Peach trees. I bought them from Lowes and they are already in bloom and the leaves are coming out all over the tree. According to the book I bought on fruit trees, I'm suppose to prune this tree by cutting off the main trunk 30 inches off of the ground and then cutting back the branches in a cup shape. My question is it too late to do that this year and should I wait until next spring. I don't want to kill the 2 of them by such a severve pruning if it's the wrong time. Thanks, Art Salmons |
#6
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Pruning Fruit Trees
Don't do it now. It has to be done when the trees are dormant. I wouldn't
cut the main trunk as instructed in the book, unless the tree is really badly shaped (bent over to one side, all the branches on one side, or growing crooked). Peaches, apricots, and nectarines need sun to be able to shine on the center of the tree. I prune mine to open it up on the south side. I remove any branches that grow straight up, toward the center, down, or toward another branch. You must take off all dead wood also. Cut above a bud that is facing the direction you want the tree to go. Cut at an angle so water will run off and not set on the limb end exposed by pruning. I live in Kansas and prune mine anywhere from December to March. Your trees will form their buds for next year during the winter. Peaches form on new wood, so you can prune it a lot if you need to. I look at my trees and imagine what I want them to look like in 20 years, and then start pruning them to form that shape. Have fun. Dwayne "Art Salmons" wrote in message om... "Tiffany" wrote in message .. . hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks I need advice on pruning 2 super sweet Peach trees. I bought them from Lowes and they are already in bloom and the leaves are coming out all over the tree. According to the book I bought on fruit trees, I'm suppose to prune this tree by cutting off the main trunk 30 inches off of the ground and then cutting back the branches in a cup shape. My question is it too late to do that this year and should I wait until next spring. I don't want to kill the 2 of them by such a severve pruning if it's the wrong time. Thanks, Art Salmons |
#7
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Pruning Fruit Trees
On Wed, 12 Mar 2003 22:06:14 -0700, "Dwayne" wrote:
Don't do it now. It has to be done when the trees are dormant. I wouldn't cut the main trunk as instructed in the book, unless the tree is really badly shaped (bent over to one side, all the branches on one side, or growing crooked). Peaches, apricots, and nectarines need sun to be able to shine on the center of the tree. I prune mine to open it up on the south side. I remove any branches that grow straight up, toward the center, down, or toward another branch. You must take off all dead wood also. Cut above a bud that is facing the direction you want the tree to go. Cut at an angle so water will run off and not set on the limb end exposed by pruning. I live in Kansas and prune mine anywhere from December to March. Your trees will form their buds for next year during the winter. Peaches form on new wood, so you can prune it a lot if you need to. Note that the "new wood" has a reddish cast, so easy to distinguish from last year's wood. I look at my trees and imagine what I want them to look like in 20 years, and then start pruning them to form that shape. Have fun. Dwayne "Art Salmons" wrote in message . com... "Tiffany" wrote in message . .. hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks I need advice on pruning 2 super sweet Peach trees. I bought them from Lowes and they are already in bloom and the leaves are coming out all over the tree. According to the book I bought on fruit trees, I'm suppose to prune this tree by cutting off the main trunk 30 inches off of the ground and then cutting back the branches in a cup shape. My question is it too late to do that this year and should I wait until next spring. I don't want to kill the 2 of them by such a severve pruning if it's the wrong time. Thanks, Art Salmons -- Polar |
#8
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Pruning Fruit Trees
Polar wrote in message . ..
On Wed, 12 Mar 2003 22:06:14 -0700, "Dwayne" wrote: I went by the local peach orchard yesterday and looked at their trees and they have the center trunk pruned off about 30 to 36 inches from the ground. From there the branches seem to come out and go up forming a cup like shape. I don't need to have this shape unless it's neccessary or better. The trees right now have a nice shape that will need some pruning to open it up. They will need some training to get the branches straighter out from the trunk. These are really nice trees and are really healthy and doing well. I will wait until next spring before the trees bud or push leaves to do the pruning. I also planted 2 other peach trees and they are already cut into the nore traditional shape shown in the book. They are a Georgia Belle and a Hale Haven. I also planted 5 Apple trees and 3 Cherry trees. The Cherry trees are a Stella, Bing, and a Black Tartarian. The Apple trees are 2 Granny Smith, 1 Yellow Delicious, 1 Stayman Winesap, and 1 Jonathan. The book I'm using as a reference is the "The Backyard Orchardist" by Stella Otto. These are the first fruit trees that we ever had so I'm really new at this and I appreciate the help. Thanks, Art Don't do it now. It has to be done when the trees are dormant. I wouldn't cut the main trunk as instructed in the book, unless the tree is really badly shaped (bent over to one side, all the branches on one side, or growing crooked). Peaches, apricots, and nectarines need sun to be able to shine on the center of the tree. I prune mine to open it up on the south side. I remove any branches that grow straight up, toward the center, down, or toward another branch. You must take off all dead wood also. Cut above a bud that is facing the direction you want the tree to go. Cut at an angle so water will run off and not set on the limb end exposed by pruning. I live in Kansas and prune mine anywhere from December to March. Your trees will form their buds for next year during the winter. Peaches form on new wood, so you can prune it a lot if you need to. Note that the "new wood" has a reddish cast, so easy to distinguish from last year's wood. I look at my trees and imagine what I want them to look like in 20 years, and then start pruning them to form that shape. Have fun. Dwayne "Art Salmons" wrote in message . com... "Tiffany" wrote in message .. . hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks I need advice on pruning 2 super sweet Peach trees. I bought them from Lowes and they are already in bloom and the leaves are coming out all over the tree. According to the book I bought on fruit trees, I'm suppose to prune this tree by cutting off the main trunk 30 inches off of the ground and then cutting back the branches in a cup shape. My question is it too late to do that this year and should I wait until next spring. I don't want to kill the 2 of them by such a severve pruning if it's the wrong time. Thanks, Art Salmons |
#9
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Pruning Fruit Trees
Art, you don't open up trees like I described unless they are peach or in
the peach family. Apple, cherry, pear, plum, Etc. are pruned differently. Everything is about the same, except opening them up to the sun. Since you have all new trees you have the perfect situation. You have a long time to get them into shape and don't have to do it all in one year. I am not sure about cherry, plum or pear, but apples grow on two year old wood. They also should be shaped so they look nice and somewhat resemble the traditional Christmas tree (long limbs on the bottom and progressively getting shorter as you go up). The plum trees I have seen haven't looked that way. Now is the time for you to learn about insects and other things that will kill your trees. Peach tree borers and hard to control, and will go after your peach and sweet cherry trees. I am nut sure about plums, but haven't had any sign of them around apples. Depending on where you are, winter time is when deer and rabbits eat your small trees. By then you should have chicken wire up around the trees to keep out rabbits. Cant tell you about what to do for deer. Have fun. Dwayne "Art Salmons" wrote in message om... Polar wrote in message . .. On Wed, 12 Mar 2003 22:06:14 -0700, "Dwayne" wrote: I went by the local peach orchard yesterday and looked at their trees and they have the center trunk pruned off about 30 to 36 inches from the ground. From there the branches seem to come out and go up forming a cup like shape. I don't need to have this shape unless it's neccessary or better. The trees right now have a nice shape that will need some pruning to open it up. They will need some training to get the branches straighter out from the trunk. These are really nice trees and are really healthy and doing well. I will wait until next spring before the trees bud or push leaves to do the pruning. I also planted 2 other peach trees and they are already cut into the nore traditional shape shown in the book. They are a Georgia Belle and a Hale Haven. I also planted 5 Apple trees and 3 Cherry trees. The Cherry trees are a Stella, Bing, and a Black Tartarian. The Apple trees are 2 Granny Smith, 1 Yellow Delicious, 1 Stayman Winesap, and 1 Jonathan. The book I'm using as a reference is the "The Backyard Orchardist" by Stella Otto. These are the first fruit trees that we ever had so I'm really new at this and I appreciate the help. Thanks, Art Don't do it now. It has to be done when the trees are dormant. I wouldn't cut the main trunk as instructed in the book, unless the tree is really badly shaped (bent over to one side, all the branches on one side, or growing crooked). Peaches, apricots, and nectarines need sun to be able to shine on the center of the tree. I prune mine to open it up on the south side. I remove any branches that grow straight up, toward the center, down, or toward another branch. You must take off all dead wood also. Cut above a bud that is facing the direction you want the tree to go. Cut at an angle so water will run off and not set on the limb end exposed by pruning. I live in Kansas and prune mine anywhere from December to March. Your trees will form their buds for next year during the winter. Peaches form on new wood, so you can prune it a lot if you need to. Note that the "new wood" has a reddish cast, so easy to distinguish from last year's wood. I look at my trees and imagine what I want them to look like in 20 years, and then start pruning them to form that shape. Have fun. Dwayne "Art Salmons" wrote in message . com... "Tiffany" wrote in message .. . hello does anyone have any good information on Pruning Fruit Trees? thanks I need advice on pruning 2 super sweet Peach trees. I bought them from Lowes and they are already in bloom and the leaves are coming out all over the tree. According to the book I bought on fruit trees, I'm suppose to prune this tree by cutting off the main trunk 30 inches off of the ground and then cutting back the branches in a cup shape. My question is it too late to do that this year and should I wait until next spring. I don't want to kill the 2 of them by such a severve pruning if it's the wrong time. Thanks, Art Salmons |
#10
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Pruning Fruit Trees
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