I live in southern Utah, zone 7 or 8.

I started tomatoes a little too early this year (it shouldn't have been too
early, but we had cold weather much longer than we usually do), and by the
time it was warm enough to put them outside, they were stressed to the point
where only about 6-8 out of 200+ made it.

So I started some new seeds a month ago. I planned to put the little plants
outside yesterday, but right before that I went out of town and forgot to
tell my husband to water them. I came home to find a hundred tomato
seedlings flat and dead in their little pellets.

I planted more seeds yesterday. They should be ready to put into the ground
in about a month. Am I just kidding myself, or do people actually start
tomatoes with success this late in the season? I should say that in most
years we don't get killing frosts until October or later, so our growing
season is in fact quite long. Last year, my plants were about ten feet tall
by the end of August, and really too pooped to produce much by then, even
though the weather was still very hot for months afterward. So I am
thinking that we might get tomatoes much later than anyone else, but at
least the plants will still be healthy and producing at the end of the
growing season.

Someone give me some encouragement!
--S.

In article ,
"Suzanne D." wrote:

I live in southern Utah, zone 7 or 8.

I started tomatoes a little too early this year (it shouldn't have been too
early, but we had cold weather much longer than we usually do), and by the
time it was warm enough to put them outside, they were stressed to the point
where only about 6-8 out of 200+ made it.

So I started some new seeds a month ago. I planned to put the little plants
outside yesterday, but right before that I went out of town and forgot to
tell my husband to water them. I came home to find a hundred tomato
seedlings flat and dead in their little pellets.

I planted more seeds yesterday. They should be ready to put into the ground
in about a month. Am I just kidding myself, or do people actually start
tomatoes with success this late in the season? I should say that in most
years we don't get killing frosts until October or later, so our growing
season is in fact quite long. Last year, my plants were about ten feet tall
by the end of August, and really too pooped to produce much by then, even
though the weather was still very hot for months afterward. So I am
thinking that we might get tomatoes much later than anyone else, but at
least the plants will still be healthy and producing at the end of the
growing season.

Someone give me some encouragement!
--S.

Hope Charlie is about and well!

Bill

............
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From: Billy
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Planting late
Organization: Camp Runamuck
References:



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On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 07:41:16 -0500, "The moderator"
wrote:

This is my first garden and it wasn't ready to plant until now.
According
to the local planting schedule I missed the planting dates for some of my
early crops.

Can I plant late and still get healthy plants? Peas, Spinach, Broccoli,
potatoes?

Thanks

This is out'en Charlie's archive. I only steal from the best.

Late Planting Guide From Seed
From an Old Organic Magazine

Frost date is Oct 15 Last frost May 15

Your dates may differ due to your climate

July 4 100 days till Oct 15

Frost tender

85 days Snap Beans by July 25
97 days Corn by July 4
86 days Cucumbers by July 25
110 days Tomatoes by June 25
81 ays Squash by Aug 1


Survive Light Frost

90 days Cauliflower by July 25
84 days Chinese Cabbage by July 25
74 days Beets by Aug 15
113 days Endive by June 25
63 days Kohlrabi by Aug 30
76 days Loose Leaf Lettuce by Aug 1r
96 days Head Lettuce by July 4
70 days Peas by Aug 15

Survive Heavy Frost

99 days Cabbage by July 4
85 days Carrots by July 25
70 days Chard by Aug 15
90 days Collards by July 4
95 days Broccoli by July 4
120 days Brussels Sprouts by June 15
95 days Kale by July 4
42 days Radishes Summer by Sept 5
72 days Radishes Winter by Aug 15
64 days Spinach by Aug 25
51 days Turnips by Sept 15

-- People need to remember that these are average frost dates, for zone
5.
I'm also zone five.

Some years things will be done in around the average date, other years
it may go much later. Three years ago we were still harvesting
tomatoes aaround thanksgiving time. I had covered a few plants when
frost hit the end of october. No frost or freeze until around
thnksgiving.

Charlie

An' that's the way it is, movin' on.
--

Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being is
now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the moment of
conception until death." - Rachel Carson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WI29wVQN8Go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvCCc4g9wM8&NR=1

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
What use one more wake up call?
http://ocg6.marine.usf.edu/~liu/Drif...atest_roms.htm

In article ,
"Suzanne D." wrote:

I live in southern Utah, zone 7 or 8.

I started tomatoes a little too early this year (it shouldn't have been too
early, but we had cold weather much longer than we usually do), and by the
time it was warm enough to put them outside, they were stressed to the point
where only about 6-8 out of 200+ made it.

So I started some new seeds a month ago. I planned to put the little plants
outside yesterday, but right before that I went out of town and forgot to
tell my husband to water them. I came home to find a hundred tomato
seedlings flat and dead in their little pellets.

I planted more seeds yesterday. They should be ready to put into the ground
in about a month. Am I just kidding myself, or do people actually start
tomatoes with success this late in the season? I should say that in most
years we don't get killing frosts until October or later, so our growing
season is in fact quite long. Last year, my plants were about ten feet tall
by the end of August, and really too pooped to produce much by then, even
though the weather was still very hot for months afterward. So I am
thinking that we might get tomatoes much later than anyone else, but at
least the plants will still be healthy and producing at the end of the
growing season.

Someone give me some encouragement!
--S.
What kind of tomatoes are you growing?
Glacier, Stupice, Sun Gold VFNT, Siberia, Shirley F1, Native Sun, Max,
Kalinka, Ildi, Early Pick VFF, Alpine , and Early Girl are supposed to
set in 60 days or less.

Glacier (det) is supposed to be for containers and only grow 30" tall. I
have 2 in the ground, one is 30", but the other is 4'.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

Suzanne D. wrote:
I live in southern Utah, zone 7 or 8.

I started tomatoes a little too early this year (it shouldn't have been
too early, but we had cold weather much longer than we usually do), and
by the time it was warm enough to put them outside, they were stressed
to the point where only about 6-8 out of 200+ made it.

So I started some new seeds a month ago. I planned to put the little
plants outside yesterday, but right before that I went out of town and
forgot to tell my husband to water them. I came home to find a hundred
tomato seedlings flat and dead in their little pellets.

I planted more seeds yesterday. They should be ready to put into the
ground in about a month. Am I just kidding myself, or do people
actually start tomatoes with success this late in the season? I should
say that in most years we don't get killing frosts until October or
later, so our growing season is in fact quite long. Last year, my
plants were about ten feet tall by the end of August, and really too
pooped to produce much by then, even though the weather was still very
hot for months afterward. So I am thinking that we might get tomatoes
much later than anyone else, but at least the plants will still be
healthy and producing at the end of the growing season.

Someone give me some encouragement!
--S.


You're better off direct-sowing them at this point rather than
starting them indoors. Did you sow them in pellets or just scatter
them in a half a milk carton (etc)? Put them out as soon as you
can, and protect them from direct sun for a day or two. As long as
you didn't plant a late-season variety you should be fine. The
volunteer tomatoes here usually almost catch up with the early
transplants.

Bob

On Sat, 12 Jun 2010 13:05:13 -0600, "Suzanne D."
wrote:

I live in southern Utah, zone 7 or 8.

I started tomatoes a little too early this year (it shouldn't have been too
early, but we had cold weather much longer than we usually do), and by the
time it was warm enough to put them outside, they were stressed to the point
where only about 6-8 out of 200+ made it.

So I started some new seeds a month ago. I planned to put the little plants
outside yesterday, but right before that I went out of town and forgot to
tell my husband to water them. I came home to find a hundred tomato
seedlings flat and dead in their little pellets.

I planted more seeds yesterday. They should be ready to put into the ground
in about a month. Am I just kidding myself, or do people actually start
tomatoes with success this late in the season? I should say that in most
years we don't get killing frosts until October or later, so our growing
season is in fact quite long. Last year, my plants were about ten feet tall
by the end of August, and really too pooped to produce much by then, even
though the weather was still very hot for months afterward. So I am
thinking that we might get tomatoes much later than anyone else, but at
least the plants will still be healthy and producing at the end of the
growing season.

Someone give me some encouragement!
--S.


I would give it a try. I would set the plants outside as soon as they
look big enough, maybe 3 to 4 inches tall. You may start getting some
tomatoes in September. Whatever you get and whenever you get them
will be great.

I have 7 (out of 61) tomato plants that looked sick. I cut the tops
off and stuck them in some potting soil. After a few days they still
looked bad so I tossed them, pots, dirt and all into the trash. I
have started some more of those varieties. I will be putting these out
as soon as possible.

I have the feeling that there is something in the soil in that spot. I
need to get a soil test done, I have the boxes and paperwork.
--
USA
North Carolina Foothills
USDA Zone 7a

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...

You're better off direct-sowing them at this point rather than starting
them indoors.

I thought about that, but my current beds are quite "rough," made up mainly
of last year's leaves. I could put a handful of commercial soil into a hole
to plant the seeds, but I fear they'd get completely swallowed by the
leaves.

Did you sow them in pellets or just scatter them in a half a milk carton
(etc)?

I planted them in Jiffy peat pellets. About three seeds to a pellet.

As long as you didn't plant a late-season variety you should be fine. The
volunteer tomatoes here usually almost catch up with the early transplants.

What constitutes early or late varieties? Some of mine mature in 70-85
days, and others more toward 100 days.
--S.

In article ,
says...

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...

You're better off direct-sowing them at this point rather than starting
them indoors.

I thought about that, but my current beds are quite "rough," made up mainly
of last year's leaves. I could put a handful of commercial soil into a hole
to plant the seeds, but I fear they'd get completely swallowed by the
leaves.

Did you sow them in pellets or just scatter them in a half a milk carton
(etc)?

I planted them in Jiffy peat pellets. About three seeds to a pellet.

As long as you didn't plant a late-season variety you should be fine. The
volunteer tomatoes here usually almost catch up with the early transplants.

What constitutes early or late varieties? Some of mine mature in 70-85
days, and others more toward 100 days.
--S.

Refer back to Billy's answer to your original post on this thread.

7
Refer back to Billy's answer to your original post on this thread.


OOOOOOOOHHH

In article ,
PtePike wrote:

7
Refer back to Billy's answer to your original post on this thread.


OOOOOOOOHHH

For those not taking notes;O)
Glacier, Stupice, Sun Gold VFNT, Siberia, Shirley F1, Native Sun, Max,
Kalinka, Ildi, Early Pick VFF, Alpine , and Early Girl are supposed to
set in 60 days or less.

Glacier (det) is supposed to be for containers and only grow 30" tall. I
have 2 in the ground since April 23, one is 30", but the other is 4',
and both have green tomatoes.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn3lF5XSUg
http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Zinn/HZinn_page.html

Suzanne D. wrote:
I live in southern Utah, zone 7 or 8.

I ran across this from So Cal that has a lot of data for planting
time versus harvest time:

http://tchester.org/analysis/tomatoes/index.html

Here is my current take on growing tomatoes, although they will not
set fruit if daytime temps are over 90F they also won't set fruit if
nightime temps are lower than about 55F.

I believe that some early setting varieties are early because they
set at lower minimum night time temp. (Got a ref somewhere for that, Billy).

So, what are your night time temps going to be in a couple months?
How late in the season do your tomatoes set?

I'm thinking that you will do better to buy some plants already started.

Jeff

"Jeff Thies" wrote in message
...

I believe that some early setting varieties are early because they set
at lower minimum night time temp. (Got a ref somewhere for that, Billy).
So, what are your night time temps going to be in a couple months? How
late in the season do your tomatoes set?

It gets pretty hot here; about 110 in days and 75-85 at night. (But by
misting my tomatoes and putting them in partial shade I can get them to set
fruit even in the high temps.) By the time my seeds are ready to plant
outside, it'll be in the hottest part of the year. So maybe the "later"
tomatoes wouldn't do so bad after all.

I'm thinking that you will do better to buy some plants already started.

I did just that. I am still planting my seeds, but there comes a point
where you either stick to your organic principles and accept that you won't
be getting any tomatoes until September, or you swallow your pride and buy
plants from the stores. A home grown hybrid tomato is still better for you
than a store-bought tomato, anyway. So I picked up 55 plants from various
nurseries, and hopefully I'll have a few of my neat heirlooms at the end of
the year as well.
--S.