I hope someone can help me with a problem I'm having in my 90 Gallon.
I've had my tank set up for 4 months now...everything was going great.

Until all of a sudden my jungle val started to turn brown and rot. I
figured since it was the only plant having trouble, it wasnt a big deal.
That was a month ago. It is still alive with 3 leaves.
Now in my tank so far my Java moss, Amazon Sword, Amazon Spear and red tiger
lotus seem to be ok.
The problem that I am having with the browning and rotting leaves is
trasnferring to my Java Fern and Hygro. My PH is a little high...7.2. But
everything else is ok.
It hasnt become too much of a problem yet...but it appears to be spreading
by touch.
The leaves start out with patches of brown,...then they start to rot.
Any ideas would be appreciated...thanks.
OPTIMISTIK

Sorry...that was a bit vague before.
Right now I have 3 watts per gallon. All flourescent... aqua-glo and
floraglo bulbs
For fertilizer I'm using. Peat pellets, Black water extract, Leaf Zone
fertilizer, Flourish Excel Organic Carbon source, and pro gro. Also Iron
Tabs for roots...not many .
My ph right now is 7.2. KH is high...
I havent started using CO2...I wanted to try and stay away from having to
use CO2 in this tank with my Arowana, because of ph shifts...I would only be
able to provide it with a DIY system. Maybe that might be a next step...but
my plants seemed to be doing great since I've had it set up...until this
past week.

Optis


"LeighMo" wrote in message
...
You need to post more info. How much light do you have over this tank?
Are
you using any fertilizer? Injecting CO2?




Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

Thanks for the help Leigh...

I think you might be right about having too much light and not enough
nutrients.
Also I agree my tank is too big for DIY CO2...Also there is alot of water
movement on the surface so that would defeat the CO2 anyway.

I'm going to lower my watts per gallon, feed some more fertilizer and see if
that'll make a difference. I have a feeling that you're right about the
deficiency and not a disease. Or else alot of my other plants would be
affected like the amazon swords, crinium, and Tiger lotus...and all of those
seem to be ok. They are also in lower and darker parts of the aquarium.

Within a year my Aro will probably need more room and I'll have to start
taking out plants. He's 13 Inches now...a year from now...probably twice as
long.

Thanks again for your help Leigh. I checked out your website...that is a
really nice tank you have there. Do you find that the Carbo-plus system
works good in your 75 gallon? I intend on picking up an Ehiem filter in the
future hoping to cut down on my surface current. Would the Carbo plus thing
work well for a 90???I dont think it will ...but thought I"d put out the
question anyway.

Optimistik


"LeighMo" wrote in message
...
Right now I have 3 watts per gallon.

That is a lot of light for a 90 gallon with no CO2. I would either inject
CO2
or reduce the lighting to 2 watts per gallon or less.

For fertilizer I'm using. Peat pellets, Black water extract, Leaf Zone
fertilizer, Flourish Excel Organic Carbon source, and pro gro. Also Iron
Tabs for roots...not many .

I'm not sure what pro gro is, but I suspect you don't have adequate
fertilizer
for the amount of light in your tank. A high-light tank needs a lot of
fertilizer, and it should be a complete one, like Tropica Mastergrow.

I havent started using CO2...I wanted to try and stay away from having to
use CO2 in this tank with my Arowana, because of ph shifts...

Once you hit 3 watts per gallon, you are likely to have larger pH shifts
*without* CO2 than with it. The reason being that the plants will strip
CO2
out of the water, steadily lowering the pH during the day while they are
photosynthesizing. The pH jumps back up at night, when the plants stop
absorbing CO2 and start releasing it.

Your tank is probably too large for DIY CO2, though. Reducing the light a
bit
might be your best option. I wouldn't spend too much money on
plant-growing
equipment like compressed CO2. Arowanas get so large they need all the
swimming room they can get; plants take up too much space in the tank.
Plus,
he'll probably just chew up the plants as he gets bigger, anyway.

My guess would be your problem isn't a disease, but a deficiency. Just in
case, you might want to remove all affected leaves, not letting them touch
healthy ones. But adding the proper fertilizer will probably fix it.


Leigh

http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/

An idea for a nice Arowanna tank with plants, is using a cork backing
on the back wall and covering it with either java/Xmas moss or
Bolbitus.
The dark cooler colors of these plants will greatly accent the scales
and colors of this fish.

You can even have a bare bottom tank or plants with low growing plants
etc. The big fish tend to tear up rooted plants and then trimming them
is tougher etc.
Nice logs, driftwood with some attached plants/moss etc works well
also on top of this idea. Java fern can be used for the bottom
exclusively attached to pieces of wood. No substrate needed.

CO2 can be diffused into the tank with a powerhead and spray bar along
the bottom back edge of the tank. The gas will be atomized as it hits
the impeller, then if you direct the gas up into the "Bolbitus wall",
it will act like a trickle maze for the CO2 and also directly supply
the plants all the way up. The plants wil also hide the powerhead, CO2
line and spray bar.

Regards,
Tom Barr

Damn...those are some great ideas. I'll keep them in mind for the next time
I set up my tank.
Thanks alot
OPTIS

" wrote in message
om...
An idea for a nice Arowanna tank with plants, is using a cork backing
on the back wall and covering it with either java/Xmas moss or
Bolbitus.
The dark cooler colors of these plants will greatly accent the scales
and colors of this fish.

You can even have a bare bottom tank or plants with low growing plants
etc. The big fish tend to tear up rooted plants and then trimming them
is tougher etc.
Nice logs, driftwood with some attached plants/moss etc works well
also on top of this idea. Java fern can be used for the bottom
exclusively attached to pieces of wood. No substrate needed.

CO2 can be diffused into the tank with a powerhead and spray bar along
the bottom back edge of the tank. The gas will be atomized as it hits
the impeller, then if you direct the gas up into the "Bolbitus wall",
it will act like a trickle maze for the CO2 and also directly supply
the plants all the way up. The plants wil also hide the powerhead, CO2
line and spray bar.

Regards,
Tom Barr

It has taken me FOREVEER to get my java moss to start to stick to the
corkboard....fortunately..because its cork..I could just use pushpins to
keep it in....

" wrote:

An idea for a nice Arowanna tank with plants, is using a cork backing
on the back wall and covering it with either java/Xmas moss or
Bolbitus.
The dark cooler colors of these plants will greatly accent the scales
and colors of this fish.

You can even have a bare bottom tank or plants with low growing plants
etc. The big fish tend to tear up rooted plants and then trimming them
is tougher etc.
Nice logs, driftwood with some attached plants/moss etc works well
also on top of this idea. Java fern can be used for the bottom
exclusively attached to pieces of wood. No substrate needed.

CO2 can be diffused into the tank with a powerhead and spray bar along
the bottom back edge of the tank. The gas will be atomized as it hits
the impeller, then if you direct the gas up into the "Bolbitus wall",
it will act like a trickle maze for the CO2 and also directly supply
the plants all the way up. The plants wil also hide the powerhead, CO2
line and spray bar.

Regards,
Tom Barr

I'm not sure how I have gotten so lucky with the Java Moss I already have...
But it seemed to attach easily to the large piece of driftwood that I have.
Now its constantly got to be trimmed....by ripping off handfulls.


"Rich Conley" wrote in message
...
It has taken me FOREVEER to get my java moss to start to stick to the
corkboard....fortunately..because its cork..I could just use pushpins to
keep it in....

" wrote:

An idea for a nice Arowanna tank with plants, is using a cork backing
on the back wall and covering it with either java/Xmas moss or
Bolbitus.
The dark cooler colors of these plants will greatly accent the scales
and colors of this fish.

You can even have a bare bottom tank or plants with low growing plants
etc. The big fish tend to tear up rooted plants and then trimming them
is tougher etc.
Nice logs, driftwood with some attached plants/moss etc works well
also on top of this idea. Java fern can be used for the bottom
exclusively attached to pieces of wood. No substrate needed.

CO2 can be diffused into the tank with a powerhead and spray bar along
the bottom back edge of the tank. The gas will be atomized as it hits
the impeller, then if you direct the gas up into the "Bolbitus wall",
it will act like a trickle maze for the CO2 and also directly supply
the plants all the way up. The plants wil also hide the powerhead, CO2
line and spray bar.

Regards,
Tom Barr

An idea for a nice Arowanna tank with plants, is using a cork backing
on the back wall and covering it with either java/Xmas moss or
Bolbitus.
Regards,
Tom Barr

I use galvinized 18 gauge wire and bend 1-2" sections in U shapes for
attaching plants and larger stem plants like Anubias, Bolbitus etc.
Roots attach much faster to soft cork. Very cheap. Rust and zinc are
find for tanks and it makes no ill effect.

This works very well. I have an article on it from TFH some years ago.
A similar article exist at www.sfbaaps.com under "references".


Regards,
Tom Barr