I need a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by Japaneese beatles and is relatively free from fungal infections. This is for Central Maryland - zone 6

thanx

I don't read every catalog from cover to cover, but I read a lot of them, and I don't think I've ever seen a beatle-resistant tree offered. As far as fungal infection, I'd consult a reliable nursery, such as www.millernurseries.com. Very serious place. Or, find a local one run by people who appear to live in the soil themselves. It would not be enough to tell you "peach tree" - you need specific cultivars.

Finally, you should go to google, and do a web search which includes the words "Maryland" and "cooperative extension". Do you understand why?


"Paul E. Lehmann" wrote in message ...
I need a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by Japaneese beatles and is relatively free from fungal infections. This is for Central Maryland - zone 6

thanx

Idea: I want to build a little (250-300 gallon) pond in the backyard of
my suburban north-Florida home.

Question 1: Will this little pond be a serious haven for mosquitoes and
every other nasty, winged insect (including fire ants that love black
plastic like my planned pond liner spread over the ground)?

Location: My backyard is fully fenced-in (5-foot high wood fence) and
is located in the middle of a residential area. The site I selected is
about 30-35 feet away from my patio area, and one end will be located
at the top of a hill the other end will be about 5"-6" lower. I
figured I can just berm up the lower end. Then drape the end of the
plastic pond liner over the top of the berm to hold the berm in place.
(The soil in my yard, like most of Florida, is very sandy.) There'll
be a small (8-foot high) Dogwood tree located on the south side and a
section of my backyard's fence will be located west side of the pond
and will shade the later evening sun. In all, the pond will probably
get about 6 hours of direct sun and a couple hours of semi-shaded.


Questions 2 & 3: Is this location okay? Or will it get too much sun...
and end up being green, algae-filled swamp in a matter of weeks?

To add interest to my little pond, and to keep the bug population in
check, I figured I'd add some inhabitants. I figured the best thing
to add would be some local tadpoles, minnows (little bluegills/panfish
or whatever they're called in this part of the country) a couple
adult frogs, and maybe a turtle or two.

Questions 4 , 5 & 6: Best to stay with local creatures, right? What do
you think about adding some African Cichlids (in place of the local
fish), from a tropical fish store? Cichlids are tough little fish,
surely they could survive in my pond, right?

I also want a little water fall on one end of the pond.

Questions 7, 8 & 9: How gallon-per-hour pump should I use? How many
hours a day should the pump run? Should my pond have some sort of
filtration system?

Question 10 & a bonus: Are ponds worthwhile or are they more bother
than they're worth?

Please give me your thoughts, ideas and experiences.

Patrick

I don't consider miller nurseries a very serious place. Their
specification on fruit trees are lacking important details
such as rootstock type and specific variety type information. A better
source would be Raintree in Washington state,
where they give you all the detailed info you need, not just general
terms like 'dwarf' tree. Sadly, what most consumers
don't check is the actual dwarfing rootstock type. There is lots of
variation in size within the dwarf and semi-dwarf arena,
and there is lots of information about that to be found on the web, or
in books.

Some fruit tree types are naturally more resistant to pests. Pears are
less vulnerable than apples to such attacks. Within
apples, there are varieties like William's Pride, Liberty, etc., which
display some natural resistance to fungus. There is
no apple variety I know of that is inherently resistant to insects.
These resistant types are decent tasting apples, but I don't
think they are the very best in flavor. The only fruit tree with
inherent resistance to insects is the Paw Paw, a native American
variety. The only insect that can tolerate getting near it are flies,
which do the job of pollination and do not attack the fruit.

Sherwin D.

Doug Kanter wrote:

I don't read every catalog from cover to cover, but I read a lot of
them, and I don't think I've ever seen a beatle-resistant tree
offered. As far as fungal infection, I'd consult a reliable nursery,
such as www.millernurseries.com. Very serious place. Or, find a local
one run by people who appear to live in the soil themselves. It would
not be enough to tell you "peach tree" - you need specific
cultivars. Finally, you should go to google, and do a web search which
includes the words "Maryland" and "cooperative extension". Do you
understand why?

"Paul E. Lehmann" wrote in message
need
a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by
Japaneese beatles and is relatively free from fungal
infections. This is for Central Maryland - zone 6 thanx

On 23 Apr 2006 19:03:35 -0700, wrote:

Idea: I want to build a little (250-300 gallon) pond in the backyard of
my suburban north-Florida home.

Question 1: Will this little pond be a serious haven for mosquitoes and
every other nasty, winged insect (including fire ants that love black
plastic like my planned pond liner spread over the ground)?


No. When stocked with ruby-red minnows and/or goldfish, the mosquito
larvae will be eaten. Surprisingly, properly stocked ponds reduce
mosquito populations. Also, mosquitoes will not lay eggs in moving
water.

Location: My backyard is fully fenced-in (5-foot high wood fence) and
is located in the middle of a residential area. The site I selected is
about 30-35 feet away from my patio area, and one end will be located
at the top of a hill the other end will be about 5"-6" lower. I
figured I can just berm up the lower end. Then drape the end of the
plastic pond liner over the top of the berm to hold the berm in place.
(The soil in my yard, like most of Florida, is very sandy.) There'll
be a small (8-foot high) Dogwood tree located on the south side and a
section of my backyard's fence will be located west side of the pond
and will shade the later evening sun. In all, the pond will probably
get about 6 hours of direct sun and a couple hours of semi-shaded.


Questions 2 & 3: Is this location okay? Or will it get too much sun...
and end up being green, algae-filled swamp in a matter of weeks?

Your location is fine. Many aquatic plants require some sun to grow
well. You may have algae bloom issue--but there are remedies such as
using barley hay or algae-eating fish.


To add interest to my little pond, and to keep the bug population in
check, I figured I'd add some inhabitants. I figured the best thing
to add would be some local tadpoles, minnows (little bluegills/panfish
or whatever they're called in this part of the country) a couple
adult frogs, and maybe a turtle or two.

You probably want to forget about turtles.

Questions 4 , 5 & 6: Best to stay with local creatures, right? What do
you think about adding some African Cichlids (in place of the local
fish), from a tropical fish store? Cichlids are tough little fish,
surely they could survive in my pond, right?


Probably not. The ruby reds are excellent. Paradise fish can
withstand temperature changes. With a 300 gallon pond, resist the
temptation of adding too many fish--ten should be plenty.

I also want a little water fall on one end of the pond.

Questions 7, 8 & 9: How gallon-per-hour pump should I use? How many
hours a day should the pump run? Should my pond have some sort of
filtration system?


The more fish you add, the more filtration required. A 500-gallon per
hour is about right. You will need to maintain a filter and clean the
pump on a regular basis. Run it continuously.


Question 10 & a bonus: Are ponds worthwhile or are they more bother
than they're worth?


Keep it simple and as balanced as possible, and they are easy to
maintain. I have a 7,000-gallon pond for over 12 years and love it.
Fortunately, it is spring-fed and drains to a creek--no pump required!

Please give me your thoughts, ideas and experiences.

Patrick

unless that place has new ownership I would never consider it a "serious" place.
they graft trees without regard to compatibility issues so 3 years after planting the
tree suddenly dies. Nothing I ever bought from them is still alive.
try Bay Laurel Nurseries http://www.baylaurelnursery.com/index.html
OR Raintree http://www.raintreenursery.com/
Ingrid

I'd consult a reliable nursery, such as www.millernurseries.com. Very serious place.



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Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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I do not run nor receive any money from the ads at the old Puregold site.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Zone 5 next to Lake Michigan

repost your request in rec.ponds. they are very friendly group wit a lot of
experience and many of them right in your neck of the woods.
Ingrid

wrote:

Idea: I want to build a little (250-300 gallon) pond in the backyard of
my suburban north-Florida home.

Question 1: Will this little pond be a serious haven for mosquitoes and
every other nasty, winged insect (including fire ants that love black
plastic like my planned pond liner spread over the ground)?

Location: My backyard is fully fenced-in (5-foot high wood fence) and
is located in the middle of a residential area. The site I selected is
about 30-35 feet away from my patio area, and one end will be located
at the top of a hill the other end will be about 5"-6" lower. I
figured I can just berm up the lower end. Then drape the end of the
plastic pond liner over the top of the berm to hold the berm in place.
(The soil in my yard, like most of Florida, is very sandy.) There'll
be a small (8-foot high) Dogwood tree located on the south side and a
section of my backyard's fence will be located west side of the pond
and will shade the later evening sun. In all, the pond will probably
get about 6 hours of direct sun and a couple hours of semi-shaded.


Questions 2 & 3: Is this location okay? Or will it get too much sun...
and end up being green, algae-filled swamp in a matter of weeks?

To add interest to my little pond, and to keep the bug population in
check, I figured I'd add some inhabitants. I figured the best thing
to add would be some local tadpoles, minnows (little bluegills/panfish
or whatever they're called in this part of the country) a couple
adult frogs, and maybe a turtle or two.

Questions 4 , 5 & 6: Best to stay with local creatures, right? What do
you think about adding some African Cichlids (in place of the local
fish), from a tropical fish store? Cichlids are tough little fish,
surely they could survive in my pond, right?

I also want a little water fall on one end of the pond.

Questions 7, 8 & 9: How gallon-per-hour pump should I use? How many
hours a day should the pump run? Should my pond have some sort of
filtration system?

Question 10 & a bonus: Are ponds worthwhile or are they more bother
than they're worth?

Please give me your thoughts, ideas and experiences.

Patrick



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List at
http://weloveteaching.com/puregold/
sign up: http://groups.google.com/groups/dir?...s=Group+lookup
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I receive no compensation for running the Puregold list or Puregold website.
I do not run nor receive any money from the ads at the old Puregold site.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Zone 5 next to Lake Michigan

Weird. My experience has been the opposite, but I'm more focused on berries
& grapes.

wrote in message
...
unless that place has new ownership I would never consider it a "serious"
place.
they graft trees without regard to compatibility issues so 3 years after
planting the
tree suddenly dies. Nothing I ever bought from them is still alive.
try Bay Laurel Nurseries http://www.baylaurelnursery.com/index.html
OR Raintree http://www.raintreenursery.com/
Ingrid

I'd consult a reliable nursery, such as www.millernurseries.com. Very
serious place.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List at
http://weloveteaching.com/puregold/
sign up:
http://groups.google.com/groups/dir?...s=Group+lookup
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I receive no compensation for running the Puregold list or Puregold
website.
I do not run nor receive any money from the ads at the old Puregold site.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Zone 5 next to Lake Michigan

Paul,
Try Maple Valley Orchards @ www.maplevalleyorchards.com Tony Dembski, the owner, is very helpful and will take the time to listen and offer suggestions. He taught me how to graft my own fruit trees which I love to do as a hobby. I'm not sure you're going to find any thing that is not bothered by the Japanese Beetles since we have them here in Wisconsin too.
Good luck,
John
"Paul E. Lehmann" wrote in message ...
I need a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by Japaneese beatles and is relatively free from fungal infections. This is for Central Maryland - zone 6

thanx

In , on 04/23/06
at 09:00 PM, "Paul E. Lehmann" said:


I need a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by
Japaneese beatles and is relatively free from fungal infections. This is
for Central Maryland - zone 6

I have a Starkrimson sweet cherry from Stark Brothers (starkbros.com.)


Alan (also in central Maryland)

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Not sure why you are recommending the Starkrimson cherry as being resistant to
Japanese beatles and fungal infections? I had one in my yard here in zone 5 and
it
grew to a huge size (supposed to be a semi-dwarf) and never produced much more
than a few dozen cherries. After about 10 years, we pulled it out.

Sherwin D.

wrote:

In , on 04/23/06
at 09:00 PM, "Paul E. Lehmann" said:

I need a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by
Japaneese beatles and is relatively free from fungal infections. This is
for Central Maryland - zone 6

I have a Starkrimson sweet cherry from Stark Brothers (starkbros.com.)

Alan (also in central Maryland)

--

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Posted using registered MR/2 ICE Newsreader #564 and eComStation 1.21

BBS - The Nerve Center Telnet FidoNet 261/1000 tncbbs.no-ip.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------

about the ONLY fruit trees i've planted which are NOT bothered by japanese
beetles (nasty little buggers) is not truly a TREE, but one IS a glorious
vine called Akebia quintata {
http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/akqu1.htm }--just one thing: you MUST
cover the chocolate-coloured blossoms with something akin to bird netting
otherwise (another nasty bugger) squirvels will literally fly through the
trees to get to them, devour them all, etc., etc)--but you'll still have a
wonderful vine whereupon it leafs out in early spring and its leaves stay on
til HARD frost; the #2 item is a bush called Amelancher (sarvisberry) which
CAN become tree-like if you prune it as such AND cover the little flowers as
soon as they've been pollinated!! i've been growing them for NINE years and
i've NEVER had a fruit cuz the bluejays, chickadees, titmice...you name
them, they'll eat 'em.

good luck and have fun!!!
--
With Malus toward none, and Cherry-Trees toward all.


From: "Paul E. Lehmann"
Reply-To: "Paul E. Lehmann"
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2006 21:00:18 -0400
Subject: fruit tree recommendation


I need a recommendation for a fruit tree that is not bothered by Japaneese
beatles and is relatively free from fungal infections. This is for Central
Maryland - zone 6

thanx