I recently bought a 5 gallon hydrangea (lacecap) that was listed as
sun/part-shade tolerant. I planted it in a spot that gets a fair amount
of sun and it has been drooping in the middle of the day even after I
give it plenty of water.

I am wondering if I should transplant it or try to give the plant some
time to 'adapt' to the location I put it in; do plants adapt to their
light exposure?

"Sonia Van Tassel" wrote in message
ups.com...
I recently bought a 5 gallon hydrangea (lacecap) that was listed as
sun/part-shade tolerant. I planted it in a spot that gets a fair amount
of sun and it has been drooping in the middle of the day even after I
give it plenty of water.

I am wondering if I should transplant it or try to give the plant some
time to 'adapt' to the location I put it in; do plants adapt to their
light exposure?

This is the first year I've planted a hydrangea, and I put it in a corner
of our yard, (near the junction of two fences), and after a few weeks, it
got really limpy, with or without water. I save rainwater around here in
Kansas to water all my plants, inside or outdoors, in a drier spell, which
out here in summer is 3-4 days !! Small baby pools or other larger bins.
Then I dip my watering cans in and drain them all out.
Also the ones on the front porch that are under the awning.

(Yeah, yeah I know all about skeeter spawning grounds but trust me the water
is gone with a day or so.)
Anyway, I thought all was gone, when I saw it wilted up and just a real
nasty piece of work. Finally made it over there to pull it out, and looked
under all the wilted dried out flowers/leaves......

AHA !!! I luckily lo and behold, it has obviously gotten into it's own.
IT's coming up like gangbusters! Don't know if I'll get any blooms on it but
next year it will certainly be gorgeous!
IWY, I'd wait it out, water when needed, and when it starts to wilt and dry
out, (just about ALL of it did this with mine!), keep it there, and keep
watering. The new sprigs that are coming out were really small but growing
to full size every day! I was quite thrilled.

Moving here to Kansas, and getting used to all the variety of things I can
grow, but more importantly, not expecting them to just keep on doing great,
like my hydrangea, and letting *it* takes its time to acclimate to my new
yard, soil and placement, is well worth it.

If yours comes back, please let me know!

Best wishes,
MaryBeth

i too grow hydrangeas but my trouble is not with them wilting but with
them changing colors from year to year. does anyone know what that's
all about?

i too grow hydrangeas but my trouble is not with them wilting but with
them changing colors from year to year. does anyone know what that's
all about?

"fanbball" wrote in message
ups.com...
i too grow hydrangeas but my trouble is not with them wilting but with
them changing colors from year to year. does anyone know what that's
all about?

Are they fading to white?
Not sure exactly what it is, but there is some sort of supplement/nutrient
you can add to the soil. I better keep an eye on this thread, as I'll want
to do the same, (make sure they stay blue), for next year.
If no one answers, and I'm sure plenty will g, you can look it up here or
in Google, as I know they've been topics before. Just didn't have my
hydrangea in, so wasn't paying attention.
There are a few other flowers that do this, such as the peony, they tend to
lose their original colors, after many years.
If anyone does answer, please let me know about the peonies, also, if you
can.

Good luck with yours
MaryBeth

"Mary Beth" wrote in message
news:T%Cng.93444$IZ2.88886@dukeread07...

"fanbball" wrote in message
ups.com...
i too grow hydrangeas but my trouble is not with them wilting but with
them changing colors from year to year. does anyone know what that's
all about?

Are they fading to white?
Not sure exactly what it is, but there is some sort of supplement/nutrient
you can add to the soil. I better keep an eye on this thread, as I'll want
to do the same, (make sure they stay blue), for next year.
If no one answers, and I'm sure plenty will g, you can look it up here
or in Google, as I know they've been topics before. Just didn't have my
hydrangea in, so wasn't paying attention.
There are a few other flowers that do this, such as the peony, they tend
to lose their original colors, after many years.
If anyone does answer, please let me know about the peonies, also, if you
can.

Good luck with yours
MaryBeth/

***************

Rhododendrons, and Hydrangeas (Queens of the late-flowering shrubs), are
similar but are not the same. but their treatment is the same and they are
sometimes traditionally referred to as Azaleas. They are of the heather
family and will fail miserably in alkaline soil. . They may do reasonably
well in neutral soil but need an acid home if they are to flourish, and they
do better in partial shade.
Their's much more but the above is a guide and don't thank me. they are
straight out of a worthy book , - which by law I cannot mention. So bags
of peat well mixed in when planting is the answer.
I have found that if you clip hard in winter they won't flower the next year
so leave then alone if you don't want to prune them smaller, wait until the
new flowers are budding , - this month), then nip off the brown, dead ,
last-years mop scruffy remains, - or just leave them , they do no harm.
Doug.
***************

On 25 Jun 2006 11:41:57 -0700, "Sonia Van Tassel"
wrote:

I recently bought a 5 gallon hydrangea (lacecap) that was listed as
sun/part-shade tolerant. I planted it in a spot that gets a fair amount
of sun and it has been drooping in the middle of the day even after I
give it plenty of water.

I am wondering if I should transplant it or try to give the plant some
time to 'adapt' to the location I put it in; do plants adapt to their
light exposure?

It will help to transplant it. In my opinion, the sooner you
transplant it the better. Soak it immediately after transplanting,
and soak it again the next day. My hydrangea gets morning sun and it
wilts easily, but recovers quickly after a good drink. Your new
transplant will greatly benefit from a compost mulch. It took a few
years for my plant to become established, now it is too big--almost 5
feet high 5 foot across! It is blooming right now, some flowers are
pink, others are blue.

On 25 Jun 2006 13:29:46 -0700, "fanbball" wrote:

i too grow hydrangeas but my trouble is not with them wilting but with
them changing colors from year to year. does anyone know what that's
all about?

pH

Sonia Van Tassel wrote:
I recently bought a 5 gallon hydrangea (lacecap) that was listed as
sun/part-shade tolerant. I planted it in a spot that gets a fair amount
of sun and it has been drooping in the middle of the day even after I
give it plenty of water.

I am wondering if I should transplant it or try to give the plant some
time to 'adapt' to the location I put it in; do plants adapt to their
light exposure?

Hydrangas do best with in a spot that receives shade/filtered-sun from
late-morning to early afternoon (10AM-3PM) -- near the base of a decent
size shade tree is perfect. Also a nice layer of mulch/regular
watering serves them well because they tend to be pretty thirsty.

To the other poster: PH of the soil largely determines the color of
blooms. High PH (alkaline) produces pink, low PH (acidic) gives blue
flowers.

Patrick

"doug." wrote:

Rhododendrons, and Hydrangeas (Queens of the late-flowering shrubs), are
similar but are not the same. but their treatment is the same and they are
sometimes traditionally referred to as Azaleas. They are of the heather
family and will fail miserably in alkaline soil. . They may do reasonably
well in neutral soil but need an acid home if they are to flourish, and they
do better in partial shade.
Their's much more but the above is a guide and don't thank me. they are
straight out of a worthy book , - which by law I cannot mention.

Hi Doug, You better get you money back on that book.

Rhododendrons are kings of the early flowering shrubs of the Ericaceae
Family (so-called heather family). They are in the Dilleniidae Subclass
and the Ericales Order which includes heaths, heathers, mountain laurel,
and pieris.

Hydrangeas are mid-season bloomers of the Hydrangeaceae Family
(hydrangea family). They are in the Rosidae Subclass and the Rosales
Order which includes cannabis and roses.

The only thing they have in common is that they both have flowers and
produce seeds with two cotyledon leaves, dicots.

Rhododendrons and other Ericaceae are called acid loving plants since
they are usually found growing in acidic soils, though some members of
the family have adapted quite well to alkaline soils. That is the
reason that rhododendrons in Europe are grafted onto root stocks of
rhododendrons that are tolerant of a wide range of pH's. However they
are all sensative to soils containing aluminum and subject to aluminum
toxicity.

Hydrangeas are unique in that they have the ability to accumulate
aluminum. In acidic soils when aluminum is more available, it is taken
up by hydrangeas. Most hydrangeas have white flowers but some are
affected by the aluminum and produce flowers that are more blue in
acidic soils, flowers that are pink or purple in alkaline soils, and are
cream colored in neutral soils.

Some people mistakenly think that aluminum sulfate that is added to the
soil to make hydrangeas blue will help rhododendrons. It will help them
for a while by acidifying the soil, but will eventually kill the
rhododendrons which are killed by excess aluminum ions in the soil.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html
Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6

"Sonia Van Tassel" wrote:

I recently bought a 5 gallon hydrangea (lacecap) that was listed as
sun/part-shade tolerant. I planted it in a spot that gets a fair amount
of sun and it has been drooping in the middle of the day even after I
give it plenty of water.

Hi Sonia,

The hydra in hydrangea comes from the fact that they like water. When
newly planted the roots haven't adapted to being transplanted and the
plant has trouble taking up enough water in the heat of the day. This
should be a temporary condition and the plant should grow out of it if
there is enough phosphorus in the soil which is necessary for proper
root development.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html
Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6

"fanbball" wrote:

i too grow hydrangeas but my trouble is not with them wilting but with
them changing colors from year to year. does anyone know what that's
all about?

Hydrangeas are unique in that they have the ability to accumulate
aluminum. In acidic soils when aluminum is more available, it is taken
up by hydrangeas. Most hydrangeas have white flowers but some are
affected by the aluminum and produce flowers that are more blue in
acidic soils, flowers that are pink or purple in alkaline soils, and are
cream colored in neutral soils.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html
Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6

"Phisherman" wrote in message
It will help to transplant it. In my opinion, the sooner you
transplant it the better. Soak it immediately after transplanting,
and soak it again the next day. My hydrangea gets morning sun and it
wilts easily, but recovers quickly after a good drink. Your new
transplant will greatly benefit from a compost mulch. It took a few
years for my plant to become established, now it is too big--almost 5
feet high 5 foot across! It is blooming right now, some flowers are
pink, others are blue.

Really? Different colors on the same plant? Very nice to know, thanks! And
funny thing......mine did start to grow after I mulched it.

One of these days I'm gonna grow that big green thumb. With a lot of help
from ppl like ya'll here. Nice group!

MaryBeth

try some spray on wilt pruf or cloud cover, aka antidessicant. or, trim it back a
bit giving the roots less plant to supply with water. it will adapt.
Ingrid

"Sonia Van Tassel" wrote:

I recently bought a 5 gallon hydrangea (lacecap) that was listed as
sun/part-shade tolerant. I planted it in a spot that gets a fair amount
of sun and it has been drooping in the middle of the day even after I
give it plenty of water.

I am wondering if I should transplant it or try to give the plant some
time to 'adapt' to the location I put it in; do plants adapt to their
light exposure?



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Zone 5 next to Lake Michigan

In message ,
Stephen Henning writes

Hi Doug, You better get you money back on that book.

Rhododendrons are kings of the early flowering shrubs of the Ericaceae
Family (so-called heather family). They are in the Dilleniidae
Subclass and the Ericales Order which includes heaths, heathers,
mountain laurel, and pieris.

Hydrangeas are mid-season bloomers of the Hydrangeaceae Family
(hydrangea family). They are in the Rosidae Subclass and the Rosales
Order which includes cannabis and roses.

More recent botanical opinion places both Ericaceae and Hydrangeaceae in
the asterid clade, the Ericaceae in Ericales, and the Hydrangeaceae in
Cornales (with dogwoods, etc).
--
Stewart Robert Hinsley
http://www.malvaceae.info