Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

On Wed, 04 Jul 2007 05:25:33 -0700, "
wrote:

Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If
he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it
to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new
growth in response to the nitrogen.

Also, fertilizing without a soil test is always risky. If the
homeowner (or his predecessor) already fertilized excessively, the
buildup of salts could kill the tree. Not to mention the risk of
runoff polluting waterways (admittedly unlikely with these spikes).

Speaking of which, the spikes themselves are a very inefficient way to
fertilize your soil. The result is a few pockets of oversalted soil
surrounded by large areas of unaffected root zone. (I prefer to
top-dress twice a year with composted manure. If your soil is
deficient in phosphorus, add bone meal. P and K are usually not a
problem, though. The compost will add N and also microbes to
invigorate the soil ecosystem. This will be much more useful than a
chemical spike or two.)

The likely cause of this tree's problems is poor planting
practices--too deep, leading to root crown decay and possibly girdling
roots. But it is impossible to diagnose without more information.
The only good advice above is to call a good arborist.


QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

It doesn't sound like that to me. It is possible, I suppose, but
where is the evidence? Sounds like a vague description of normal
plant characteristics and too-small leaves, which are not caused by
insects. Again, more info is needed for diagnosis.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

What, no irrigation products to promote?

Watering plants cannot be done on a set schedule or regimen. You have
to dig into the soil to see if it it wet. Water deeply when the top
3-6 inches of soil are dry. Do not water again until the soil is dry
again.

Keith Babberney
ISA Certified Arborist #TX-0236AT

Treedweller wrote:
" wrote:
Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfmYou can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site,www.landsteward.org

This arborist will likely tell you to ignore the previous advice. If
he does not, find another. Fertilizing a stressed tree can cause it
to die as it spends its last remaining stored energy on a flush of new
growth in response to the nitrogen.



Where do all the forests come from I wonder... it's extremely rare
that a tree requires fertilizing, it became a tree didn't it. duh

Trees have been growing very successfully for millions and millions of
years, with no human intervention whatsoever... the only trees that
need to be fertilized (perhaps) are those being grown in a pot. Two
hundred year old trees grow very well out of little holes in urban
concrete... people carve into them, hack off their limbs, spew
endless torrents of horrid fumes at them, and no one ever waters or
fertilizes them andthey're very healthy, yet for hundreds of years
they've never seen an arborist even once... must be those dogs and
winos doing their business at their feet.

Self proclaimed arborists are forever attempting to scam products,
services, and asinine advice. A real arborist would not be posting
such fertilizer. And no one needs an expert to tell them to break out
the hose because it's not rained in a while.

Anytime you see someone holding themself up as an "arborist" that's
selling/promoting anything whatsoever that's not an arborist, that's a
charlatan.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.


Where do all the forests come from I wonder... it's extremely rare
that a tree requires fertilizing, it became a tree didn't it. duh

By mulching!!!!!!!

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Look at some of the forest story.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT20...tis/index.html

You do not log your way to improved forest health.

Self proclaimed arborists are forever attempting to scam products,
services, and asinine advice. A real arborist would not be posting
such fertilizer. And no one needs an expert to tell them to break out
the hose because it's not rained in a while.

I agree 100%

I am an arborist and what I push most for trees in urban areas is proper
mulching which includes ecoart nurse losg.

http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/ecoart/

I am not against fertilizing if someone had optimum fertility levels for
trees and could prove that an element was actually lacking.


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist with tree biology background.
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Sounds like another product pusher.

I would first start with mulch, proper that is.

Qestion: Why?
Answer - Troubles in the Rhizosphere
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html
and
Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com

Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Improper Pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning

Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Tree Farming and Related Problems
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

The biggest joke is that the guy is trying to make us believe that we can
"feed" trees. They must think we flunked photosynthesis. Trees manufacture
their own food. Autotrophs make their own food. Heterotrophs have to have
it made for them. Trees are autotrophs not heterotrophs. A basic
understanding of trees would see how misleading it is to claim we are
feeding a tree a dinner when in reality we are providing essential elements
not food.


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

" wrote in message
ups.com...
Trees add so much to your landscape. Apart from the aesthetic appeal
of their beauty, they provide cooling shade for your home and garden.
A mature leafy tree can produce as much oxygen in a season as ten
people can inhale in a year.

But when trees have problems, they can be BIG problems, as these
readers discovered.

QUESTION: "We have a maple, not a silver one, that has been in the
ground maybe twenty years but still looks spindly. This spring was
hard on it and it looks half-dead. Is there anything I should do to
help it? It is in open lawn and there is no reason that I can see as
to why it is doing so poorly." - Karen Meyer

ANSWER: There are many things you can try to do as a homeowner. One
of the simplest is to fertilize the tree using a product called Jobe
tree stakes.
Directions come with it but it is as simple as pounding in the
fertilizer stakes at the drip line of the trees.

For mature trees such as the one you describe you will use three
stakes for every two inches of trunk diameter, measured at chest
height. For example, five stakes will feed a tree with a three inch
trunk diameter, and so on.
Using the plastic driving cap, tap stakes into the ground, spaced
evenly at tree's drip line. The drip line is directly below the ends
of the longest branches.

Another suggestion would be to contact an arborist in your area who
deals in larger trees. Here is a link to find one.
http://asca-consultants.org/directory/index.cfm You can also click on
a direct link to that directory when you find this column at my Web
site, www.landsteward.org

QUESTION: "I have a Japanese Purpleleaf Sand Cherry at the front
corner of my house. It's about six years old and is quite a size. It
is part of my landscape. Around the tree I have evergreens,
rhododendron, day lilies,
hostas and flowering bushes. I have noticed that the leaves are not
as big
as last year's and it has a lot of black dots along the branches and
some sort of white stuff. What is it and what can I do to save the
tree? Please respond ASAP if you can as I don't want the tree to die
if I can save it." - Teresa Fallone

ANSWER: It sounds like you have some kind of insect infection. You
could try a product I've been using called Take Down Garden Spray. It
contains a mixture of pyrethrin and canola oil. It is safe to use on
vegetables and fruit trees as well as on groundcover, shrubs,
houseplants, etc. Readers have told me they've had success with Take
Down controlling Japanese Beetles, aphids, mealy bugs and so on.

From what you tell me, it may be necessary to spray several times over
the next few weeks. Also, you may experience some die back because of
this. Once you see some of the tips or light branches dying, you need
to trim them back to reshape the bush. Let me know how it works out
for you.

QUESTION: "I had a weeping willow planted a year ago. It has done
well and is about 9 or 10 feet tall. We are in a severe drought right
now. How often should I water this tree and for how long at a time? I
don't want to over water it." - Mary Chase

ANSWER: During the drought I would water once per week. You need to
do deep watering to get to the roots not just standing with hose. As
I've said here before, use a five gallon bucket filled with water and
small 1/8 inch holes on the side at the base. The water coming out
that slowly will be more likely to reach the roots.

The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs
and landscaping to and for resources and
additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed
newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org

I think you need to sit on a "Ross" root feeder.

If you are of a mind to fertilize your trees ,plain old 10-10-10 or
5-10-5 broadcast lightly in the drip zone is mostly what you need to
do, a soil test would be great but a coffee can of fertilizer
broadcast over a few hundred square feet of drip zone is plenty and
cheaper than the test. Adding organic material is even better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Here in the Northeast I wouldn't fertilize much after the 4th of July
because you don't need to go into the heat of summer and into fall
with soft new growth, add the organic material and improve the soil.

"beecrofter" wrote in message
oups.com...
I think you need to sit on a "Ross" root feeder.

If you are of a mind to fertilize your trees ,plain old 10-10-10 or
5-10-5 broadcast lightly in the drip zone is mostly what you need to
do, a soil test would be great but a coffee can of fertilizer
broadcast over a few hundred square feet of drip zone is plenty and
cheaper than the test. Adding organic material is even better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Lawns interfere with the tree. Its best to cut the turf low and place 3-4
inches of composted wood chips and leaves.

Instructions you can use are here.

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Also 10-10-10 is a corn treatment and not a tree treatment. What about the
other 14 elements trees require?

The dump on method of 10-10-10- and such is old arboriculture.


There are many other tree related problems worth mentioning.

--
Many tree problems are associated with the following: They are Case
Sensitive.

Troubles in the Rhizosphere
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

Unhealthy Trees from the Nursery / Improper Planting
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub1.html
and
Look up "Tree Planting" http://www.treedictionary.com

Improper Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

Improper Pruning
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/tree_pruning

Improper Fertilization (See A Touch of Chemistry)
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Tree Farming and Related Problems
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/SOUND/

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on?


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

On Jul 5, 8:58 am, "symplastless" wrote:
there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of 10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on?

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Everyone of them contained in this-Adding organic material is even
better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.

Ok

But composted wood chips and leaves has even added benifits other than just
adding humus over a lawn.

John
"beecrofter" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 5, 8:58 am, "symplastless" wrote:
there are 17 essential elements that trees require. a mixture of
10-10-10
is just N-P-K. What about Fe, B, Mg, Mn, N and so on?

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding
us
that we are not the boss.

Everyone of them contained in this-Adding organic material is even
better, a half
inch of sifted compost now and again won't even interfere with lawn
mowing. Or mow your lawn to discharge towards the tree and direct the
cuttings towards the dripline, trhe same goes for fall leaves.