I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

John

I would take any trees you have into consideration. E.g., if you have a pin
oak and the turf is part of the root zone of the oak, you would greatly
effect the absorbing process of your oak by liming.

So my first question is what trees do you have.

2. Are the trees properly mulched?

3. Do you desire a reply keeping your trees in mind? I.e., if you have
trees.


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"John" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

In article .com,
John wrote:

I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

Yes. Use granular dolomite lime or pelletized calcium carbonate, not
hydrated or burned lime. It's best to apply lime to lawns soon after
thatching and plug aeration.

On Jul 21, 2:58 pm, "symplastless" wrote:
John

I would take any trees you have into consideration. E.g., if you have a pin
oak and the turf is part of the root zone of the oak, you would greatly
effect the absorbing process of your oak by liming.

So my first question is what trees do you have.

2. Are the trees properly mulched?

3. Do you desire a reply keeping your trees in mind? I.e., if you have
trees.

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"John" wrote in message

oups.com...

I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

I looked at your web site. What is the radius of the mulching area.
My trees are mulched, but I don't know if they are "correctly"
mulched.

For the sodded area, I have 2 trees that are mulched. In my back yard
(non sodded), I have about a dozen trees. Should I mulch them as
well?

You say it could effect the absorbing process of the trees. In what
way would it effect them?

Thanks!

On Jul 21, 3:38 pm, Amos Nomore wrote:
In article .com,

John wrote:
I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

Yes. Use granular dolomite lime or pelletized calcium carbonate, not
hydrated or burned lime. It's best to apply lime to lawns soon after
thatching and plug aeration.

In the past year and a half, I've aerated twice. The grass in the
backyard has really started responding. Should I aerate my sodded
area? Aerating is what I'm planning on doing this fall.

In article .com,
John wrote:

On Jul 21, 3:38 pm, Amos Nomore wrote:
In article .com,

John wrote:
I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

Yes. Use granular dolomite lime or pelletized calcium carbonate, not
hydrated or burned lime. It's best to apply lime to lawns soon after
thatching and plug aeration.

In the past year and a half, I've aerated twice. The grass in the
backyard has really started responding. Should I aerate my sodded
area? Aerating is what I'm planning on doing this fall.

If the sod looks really good, I'd wait until it's nice and cool outside
for everything.

I guess you don't want to respond with respect to any trees that might be
involved in your alteration of soil chemistry.

Most tree problems are trouble in the rhizosphere.
For those interested in protecting trees here's the article.
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/RHIZO.html

and

http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html

Be careful with these articles because you might learn something.


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"John" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 12:29:04 -0700, John wrote:

I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

Yes! I think it will improve your lawn. Test again in 6 months and
repeat application if pH is below 6.5. You may find your lawn pH can
differ in places. There is some controversy about applying lime and
fertilizer at the same time. The pellitized lime is easier to apply
than the ag lime.

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 14:40:21 -0700, John wrote:

On Jul 21, 3:38 pm, Amos Nomore wrote:
In article .com,

John wrote:
I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

Yes. Use granular dolomite lime or pelletized calcium carbonate, not
hydrated or burned lime. It's best to apply lime to lawns soon after
thatching and plug aeration.

In the past year and a half, I've aerated twice. The grass in the
backyard has really started responding. Should I aerate my sodded
area? Aerating is what I'm planning on doing this fall.


I have never aerated because my soil is not compacted. If your lawn
is used for sports, bicycles, games, it may benefit from aeration. You
may be better off spreading organic material (compost, old manure,
leaf mold, etc) to encourage earthworms which will aerate for you.

I looked at your web site. What is the radius of the mulching area.

OK, you could mulch you whole yard if you like. But really, you could mulch
to the drip line. Beware that small amounts of mulch properly applied can
make a big difference. In Hawaii they mulch to the drip lines because they
have to recycle all that material because they have no room to establish a
land fill. I start my applying about 4' wide circle around the tree. Again
for more specific suggestions go here -

Mulching - http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
and
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"


My trees are mulched, but I don't know if they are "correctly"
mulched.

Keep mulch back at least 6" from the base of the tree or trunk flair. 3-4"
thick and flat.


For the sodded area, I have 2 trees that are mulched. In my back yard
(non sodded), I have about a dozen trees. Should I mulch them as
well?

I would. But do not dig out the turf because the turf roots grow deeper
than the absorbing non-woody roots of the trees. If we dig out the turf
roots we remove the tree absorbing roots. Just cut the turf low and place
mulch on top.


You say it could effect the absorbing process of the trees. In what
way would it effect them?

Example is pin oaks. They require acidic soil. By raising the pH we tie up
certain elements such as iron. I did some soil research in old growth
forest and found that eastern hemlocks like a pH of 4.5. Depending on your
tree species the pH requirement will vary. I would hate to see your turf to
well and the trees die.
I would think if you gave your trees a mulched area it would help.

I would suggest something like this: http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/mul2.html

I do not have all the answers, however if there is anything I can do to help
you, I will.

I would then keep the lime application back from the mulch.


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

On Jul 21, 6:34 pm, "symplastless" wrote:
I looked at your web site. What is the radius of the mulching area.

OK, you could mulch you whole yard if you like. But really, you could mulch
to the drip line. Beware that small amounts of mulch properly applied can
make a big difference. In Hawaii they mulch to the drip lines because they
have to recycle all that material because they have no room to establish a
land fill. I start my applying about 4' wide circle around the tree. Again
for more specific suggestions go here -

Mulching -http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/sub3.html
andhttp://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/ Look up "Mulch"

My trees are mulched, but I don't know if they are "correctly"
mulched.

Keep mulch back at least 6" from the base of the tree or trunk flair. 3-4"
thick and flat.



For the sodded area, I have 2 trees that are mulched. In my back yard
(non sodded), I have about a dozen trees. Should I mulch them as
well?

I would. But do not dig out the turf because the turf roots grow deeper
than the absorbing non-woody roots of the trees. If we dig out the turf
roots we remove the tree absorbing roots. Just cut the turf low and place
mulch on top.



You say it could effect the absorbing process of the trees. In what
way would it effect them?

Example is pin oaks. They require acidic soil. By raising the pH we tie up
certain elements such as iron. I did some soil research in old growth
forest and found that eastern hemlocks like a pH of 4.5. Depending on your
tree species the pH requirement will vary. I would hate to see your turf to
well and the trees die.
I would think if you gave your trees a mulched area it would help.

I would suggest something like this:http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/mul2.html

I do not have all the answers, however if there is anything I can do to help
you, I will.

I would then keep the lime application back from the mulch.

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arboristhttp://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

Thanks for the awesome assistance. My mulched trees are not correctly
mulched. I'm gonna fix tomorrow and mulch every tree in the back
yard.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 14:40:21 -0700, John wrote:

On Jul 21, 3:38 pm, Amos Nomore wrote:
In article .com,

John wrote:
I've been reading up on lime and one web site says to put lime down
in
fall and spring. I'm in the Atlanta area with a soil ph of 5.5. My
yard is beautiful with expensive fescue sod that is 1.5 years old.
Can I put down lime now (in July)?

Yes. Use granular dolomite lime or pelletized calcium carbonate, not
hydrated or burned lime. It's best to apply lime to lawns soon after
thatching and plug aeration.

In the past year and a half, I've aerated twice. The grass in the
backyard has really started responding. Should I aerate my sodded
area? Aerating is what I'm planning on doing this fall.

I have never aerated because my soil is not compacted. If your lawn
is used for sports, bicycles, games, it may benefit from aeration. You
may be better off spreading organic material (compost, old manure,
leaf mold, etc) to encourage earthworms which will aerate for you.

which I personally think is a very good idea. Compost etc (but not too
thickly) on the grass, use a organic fertiliser, mulch the clippings back
into the soil. If you do that however cut the grass higher. Worms will leave
earth mounds that if you cut too low will mush the grass. People with low
cut fanatically manicured lawns will not spread anything to encourage worms.
They will rely on artificial fertilisers & chemicals sprays.

I had a debate recently with one grass outfit who wanted to sell me some
synthetic fertiliser. I wanted some poop based stuff help with humus and
worms. They argued I didn't want worms as it would cause mounds. These
people almost scalp their lawn, couldn't understand that I cut mine higher.
If you want worms in the lawn cut higher & avoid worms mounds & all will be
fine.

rob