Rich

In MODERN ARBORICULTURE we compost our tree trimmings that have been
chipped. When we say composted tree trimmings we mean that the material has
sat in a pile for at least a year. The stuff I use and sell is 2,3, or even
4 years old. It has a nice dark color acquired by the composting process.
I do not use dyed mulch. The compost meaning that the living parenchyma
cells have dies and the contents of the cells are digested. I.e., the
parenchyma cells that made up the sapwood at time of trimming. The problem
with using fresh chips is that the protoplasm from the inside of the
parenchyma cells gets smeared all over the place. This protoplasm attracts
undesirables that can and do do nasty things to trees above as well as below
ground. This could cause disease. The microorganisms attracted to
protoplasm are those that attract defense cells in trees. Now, the webwork
of living parenchyma cells in trees (all parts of a tree are born alive) is
collectively and correctly termed the "symplast". The cells are connected
and can conduct electricity, thus the SHIGOMETER (a pulsed uhm meter) comes
into play. Now the more composted the wood chips, leaves and needles the
better. The more composted the less chances of artillery fungus on your
house or structure. I cannot mention mulch without some lucid instruction.

1. Do not remove grass by digging before mulching. Because the grass roots
grow deeper than the non-woody roots of the tree which would be removed with
the grass. Just cut the grass low and place mulch on top.
2. Mulch should be kept back at least 6" from trunk and trunk flare.
Should not touch trunk.
3. Mulch should be no more than 3-4" thick. If the non-woody roots grow
into this gradation of mulch then you have too much and some should be
removed.
When this mulch dries out first, as it does, the non-woody roots die and
abscission zones do not form and an entrance for micro's into the tree is
created.
4. Mulch should be FLAT!
5. Done correctly mulch plays a key role in vitality management of the tree
as well as associates.
6. I mention this gradation because in nurse logs or fallen trees in a
forest roots from other trees grow into nurse logs into holes created by
organisms such as borers. The nurse log will become a sponge and retain
water for the trees to use during dry time. What I am trying to say is
mulch comes in different gradations.

This is what composting means to be. When wood breaks down to a material
like coffee grounds, the material is termed "new soil".
The major theme in nature is buildup and breakdown. Composting is a break
down process.

This are my thoughts on compost with respect to MODERN ARBORICULTURE and A
NEW TREE BIOLOGY!

MULCH stuff: http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/M/mulch.html
--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Consulting Tree Biologist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.
Some people will buy products they do not understand and not buy books that
will give them understanding.


"RichD" wrote in message
...
The local grocery has a compost recycle bin,
for food scraps etc. Even the plates and utensils
go in there.

I was wondering, what constitutes 'composting'?
I mean, does it simply get dumped into a big grinder,
or is there some enzymatic chemistry involved?

And who/how/where receives it? Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?


--
Rich

Karsten Kruse wrote:
Billy schrieb:

Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?

No, the petrochemical producs are better. They sell better and the
market doesn't lie.

And don't forget to use lots of pesticides too. They are made from
petroleum as well. I mean, if we are willing to go to war and cause
incredible suffering, then it must be a good thing ;o), so eats lots
of it. The really good unintended consequence is, of course, it cures
conservative's cranial-rectal inversion, which makes this liberal feel
good ;O).

_Exactly_!

I'm afraid there are no commercial products needed to make compost.

A shame, the industry should do something about it.


Lots of compost products, you MUST have them ALL:

1) Composting "tumblers", $200 and up ($500 for the "twin barrel" system)

2) Cedar or wire compost "bins," $40 and up

3) Canvas "leaf haulers" to get leaves to the compost, $30

4) Chippers, to turn twigs into compostable bits, $700 or so

5) "Ground flush wheelbarrows" wide and shallow, to haul grass and
clippings to compost, regular wheelbarrow or a cardboard box just wont do,
$80 or so

6) "Compost Maker" or "Compost Excellerater" -- all brands are unique and
wonderful with magic ingredients, around $10 per container, buy several
kinds, including liquid, granular, or sticks that can just be pounded into
in pile.

7) Worms! Starter batch of wigglies, $15

8) Sand! to make compost drain better. $8 a bag

9) Shovel to turn compost, $15.00

10) Tined bail fork to aerate compost, $15.00

11) Aerator plunger, because a tined fork and shovel ain't enough for a
really well aerated pile, $20

12) Soil Sifter to help granulate finished compost, $100

13) Rotary sifter to mix different kinds of finished compost as
granulated, mounted over wheelbarrow, only $500

14) Stainless Steel "Peely bin" for kitchen waste, handled for ease of
carrying to compost pile: $80 gets a pretty nice one, you don't want the
$10 chintzy plastic jobby.

15) Galvanized chimney-lid on galvanized can, to use as incinerator to
make your own ash out of paper and twigs: $50

16) Compost thermometer, you could die if it cooks too cool to kill germs, $20

17) Biodegradable leaf sacks, fill 'em up, toss 'em bag and all on
compost: $15 for three.

18) "Tidy screens" look like bamboo mats, make nice "wraps" for the
compost pile so it won't be an eye soar, $30 per screen, you'll need
probably three of them, so $90

19) Plastic composting bag, "kit" with tripod bag-hanger, for that kitchen
waste that stinks too much for the regular pile, $30 starter kit, extra
bags $8 each, get a dozen of those to start with.

20) Compressed bails of sawdust or wood shavings, ESSENTIAL soil builders
mixed into the garden waste, $15 per bail, you'll need lots of bails

21) Fleece Compost Covers, keeps compost moist and none of it blows away,
$75 or so, not so much when you consider it's "CO2 permeable" making these
covers absolutely essential.

22) Compost bucket, to move finished compost from place to place in teh
garden, because you well know an ordinary bucket will never do it as well:
$20

23) Compost Test Kit. You'll end up killing your entire garden if you
don't test the pH, nitrogen level,, sodium content and what-not. $50 for
the kit in a nice leathette case, but you can go cheaper if you don't
actually love your garden.

24) Compost Planning Software. If you don't have the right computer
software with compost recipes and loads of advice, you're just wasting
your time. $250 might seem an awful lot, but do you want a dead garden? I
didn't think so.

25) Compost tool holder, $25

26) Finished compost holder bin. You certainly can't leave that finished
compost on the ground getting all dirty. And a special bin is only about
$50

27) Concrete toad, gnome, hedgehog, or jockey. Something nice for the top
of the pile. $50. If you'd prefer a Japanese stone lantern, $300.

28) Books about composting, get several, preferably published by vendors
of the above products as they explain best why you need all that stuff:
$20 per book on average, get about ten different titles so you'll become
expert, so: $200

If you run out of cool compost essentials to buy, just ask your vendor
what else you can get, there'll be something else, never fear.

-paghat the ratgirl
--
visit my temperate gardening website:
http://www.paghat.com
visit my film reviews website:
http://www.weirdwildrealm.com

"Mark Thorson" wrote in message
...
Martin Brown wrote:

RichD wrote:
The local grocery has a compost recycle bin,
for food scraps etc. Even the plates and utensils
go in there.

Paper plates presumably, but dumping plastic or metal utensils seems
very wasteful. I presume this is in the USA throw away culture.

Whole Foods markets in the U.S. have a collecting bin
for compostable materials. The utensils provided with
their ready-to-eat foods are made from a biodegradable
plastic, so they can go with the paper plates and
leftover food.

Some cultery is also now made from bamboo.

"symplastless" wrote in message
. ..
Rich

In MODERN ARBORICULTURE we compost our tree trimmings that have been
chipped. When we say composted tree trimmings we mean that the material
has sat in a pile for at least a year. The stuff I use and sell is 2,3,
or even 4 years old. It has a nice dark color acquired by the composting
process. I do not use dyed mulch. The compost meaning that the living
parenchyma cells have dies and the contents of the cells are digested.
I.e., the parenchyma cells that made up the sapwood at time of trimming.
The problem with using fresh chips is that the protoplasm from the inside
of the parenchyma cells gets smeared all over the place. This protoplasm
attracts undesirables that can and do do nasty things to trees above as
well as below ground. This could cause disease. The microorganisms
attracted to protoplasm are those that attract defense cells in trees.
Now, the webwork of living parenchyma cells in trees (all parts of a tree
are born alive) is collectively and correctly termed the "symplast". The
cells are connected and can conduct electricity, thus the SHIGOMETER (a
pulsed uhm meter) comes into play. Now the more composted the wood chips,
leaves and needles the better. The more composted the less chances of
artillery fungus on your house or structure. I cannot mention mulch
without some lucid instruction.

Whilst I agree with you. Sometimes there's not enough space in the garden to
store the fresh tree mulch.

I pruned back a row of pine tree hedges about 6 months back. There was just
way too much mulch for the compost pile. I stacked as much as i could in
that pile and for the rest - I ended up piling a lot of the fresh mulch onto
parts of the garden beds which I consider - secondary - meaning if the
plants there die - it don't matter.

What happened was that the margurite daises are doing well. In fact, the
compost piles went ok. Didn't kill anything - and helped to supress the
weeds if i piled a layer three inches thick.

However, there was a massive bloom of yellow flowering clovers -
particularly in areas where the mulch was the thinest. Perhaps the mulch had
a rich store of nitrogen.

On Jul 30, 4:48 am, Karsten Kruse wrote:
RichD schrieb:

Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?

No, the petrochemical producs are better. They sell better and the market
doesn't lie.

Karsten

In support of your smile: When farming, we would dump around seven
hundred tons of compost on a single one hundred acre unit. This
reduced our dependence on [incomplete] chemical fertilizers (heck, it
was winter, we had nothing else to do). The biggest "upside" was we
were not growing nutritionally hollow food. People often commented on
the better taste of things grown with compost and mineral
supplements. For example, try a garden fresh tomato with good soil,
then try one from a hot house supplier. The only reason we turned to
chemical (e.g., thousands of gallons of nitrogen pumped through the
irrigations circles) was to survive/compete on the market and, in the
end, the corn looked damn good. Still, just like us humans, plants
are more than just a little nitrogen, potassium, and ....... On a
side note, go look at the soil on many of the farms. It's dead.
FungiCIDES, pestiCIDES and so forth kill everything. Everything works
together, but we have a better way. Just like our management of the
forests (okay, maybe that didn't turn out so well and introducing
other than indigenous species only resulted in very happy beetles, or
stopping forest fires wasn't such a good ideal, or......).

Mark Thorson wrote:
Martin Brown wrote:
RichD wrote:
The local grocery has a compost recycle bin,
for food scraps etc. Even the plates and utensils
go in there.
Paper plates presumably, but dumping plastic or metal utensils seems
very wasteful. I presume this is in the USA throw away culture.

Whole Foods markets in the U.S. have a collecting bin
for compostable materials. The utensils provided with
their ready-to-eat foods are made from a biodegradable
plastic, so they can go with the paper plates and
leftover food.

Presumably the new generation BioCorp stuff?

Regards,
Martin Brown
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"paghat" wrote in message
...
Karsten Kruse wrote:
Billy schrieb:

Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?

No, the petrochemical producs are better. They sell better and the
market doesn't lie.

And don't forget to use lots of pesticides too. They are made from
petroleum as well. I mean, if we are willing to go to war and cause
incredible suffering, then it must be a good thing ;o), so eats lots
of it. The really good unintended consequence is, of course, it cures
conservative's cranial-rectal inversion, which makes this liberal feel
good ;O).

_Exactly_!

I'm afraid there are no commercial products needed to make compost.

A shame, the industry should do something about it.


Lots of compost products, you MUST have them ALL:

1) Composting "tumblers", $200 and up ($500 for the "twin barrel" system)

2) Cedar or wire compost "bins," $40 and up

3) Canvas "leaf haulers" to get leaves to the compost, $30

4) Chippers, to turn twigs into compostable bits, $700 or so

5) "Ground flush wheelbarrows" wide and shallow, to haul grass and
clippings to compost, regular wheelbarrow or a cardboard box just wont do,
$80 or so

6) "Compost Maker" or "Compost Excellerater" -- all brands are unique and
wonderful with magic ingredients, around $10 per container, buy several
kinds, including liquid, granular, or sticks that can just be pounded into
in pile.

7) Worms! Starter batch of wigglies, $15

8) Sand! to make compost drain better. $8 a bag

9) Shovel to turn compost, $15.00

10) Tined bail fork to aerate compost, $15.00

11) Aerator plunger, because a tined fork and shovel ain't enough for a
really well aerated pile, $20

12) Soil Sifter to help granulate finished compost, $100

13) Rotary sifter to mix different kinds of finished compost as
granulated, mounted over wheelbarrow, only $500

14) Stainless Steel "Peely bin" for kitchen waste, handled for ease of
carrying to compost pile: $80 gets a pretty nice one, you don't want the
$10 chintzy plastic jobby.

15) Galvanized chimney-lid on galvanized can, to use as incinerator to
make your own ash out of paper and twigs: $50

16) Compost thermometer, you could die if it cooks too cool to kill germs,
$20

17) Biodegradable leaf sacks, fill 'em up, toss 'em bag and all on
compost: $15 for three.

18) "Tidy screens" look like bamboo mats, make nice "wraps" for the
compost pile so it won't be an eye soar, $30 per screen, you'll need
probably three of them, so $90

19) Plastic composting bag, "kit" with tripod bag-hanger, for that kitchen
waste that stinks too much for the regular pile, $30 starter kit, extra
bags $8 each, get a dozen of those to start with.

20) Compressed bails of sawdust or wood shavings, ESSENTIAL soil builders
mixed into the garden waste, $15 per bail, you'll need lots of bails

21) Fleece Compost Covers, keeps compost moist and none of it blows away,
$75 or so, not so much when you consider it's "CO2 permeable" making these
covers absolutely essential.

22) Compost bucket, to move finished compost from place to place in teh
garden, because you well know an ordinary bucket will never do it as well:
$20

23) Compost Test Kit. You'll end up killing your entire garden if you
don't test the pH, nitrogen level,, sodium content and what-not. $50 for
the kit in a nice leathette case, but you can go cheaper if you don't
actually love your garden.

24) Compost Planning Software. If you don't have the right computer
software with compost recipes and loads of advice, you're just wasting
your time. $250 might seem an awful lot, but do you want a dead garden? I
didn't think so.

25) Compost tool holder, $25

26) Finished compost holder bin. You certainly can't leave that finished
compost on the ground getting all dirty. And a special bin is only about
$50

27) Concrete toad, gnome, hedgehog, or jockey. Something nice for the top
of the pile. $50. If you'd prefer a Japanese stone lantern, $300.

28) Books about composting, get several, preferably published by vendors
of the above products as they explain best why you need all that stuff:
$20 per book on average, get about ten different titles so you'll become
expert, so: $200

If you run out of cool compost essentials to buy, just ask your vendor
what else you can get, there'll be something else, never fear.

or some sort of enclosure made from whatever is cheap or free, heaps of
scraps, free worms which orgabnise themselves to the pile & time.

works for me.

rob



-- Posted on news://freenews.netfront.net - Complaints to --

the times I've done that by accident, I've ended up with a stinking
mess, due to the anaerobic conditions (think pond scum, or if you live
in cold climates, the spring staunch when ice melts off the top of
ponds and lakes) . sure its good for the plants, after you let it
compost more in the open (aerobic conditions). but its not great if
you live by neighbors with sensitive noses.

thanks,
Simon


On Jul 30, 10:57 am, "YMC" wrote:
"Jake D" wrote in message

...

and turn it to compost. Heat and moisture in appropriate amounts
speeds up the process. Is it better than chemical fertiliser? Well,
it's better for the environment - and better for the soil you add it
to, not the least because it contains fibrous vegetable matter which
improves the quality of the soil you add it to. It works best when it
contains sufficient nitrogen and other nutrients required by the
plants you intend to grow.

Does the compost pile get hot enough to kill most of the weeds and their
seeds though?

One of my gardener friends advised me to put the cut grass, garden
clippings, weeds into a plastc trash bin for about a month with some water
inside - before putting it into the compost pile. That way - more weeds and
seeds would die.

A more through way, he explained, was to make compost tea - and soak the
weeds into water til they rotted.

"George.com" wrote
or some sort of enclosure made from whatever is cheap or free, heaps of
scraps, free worms which orgabnise themselves to the pile & time.

I haven't had any organic waste reach the curb in over 20 years. It's
all been nicely composted in a little black box outside by back door, 2
feet high, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet deep.

It's amazing what KKKonservative AmeriKKKunts spend their time whining
about.

"Billy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Karsten Kruse wrote:

RichD schrieb:

Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?

No, the petrochemical producs are better. They sell better and the market
doesn't lie.

Karsten

And don't forget to use lots of pesticides too. They are made from
petroleum as well. I mean, if we are willing to go to war and cause
incredible suffering, then it must be a good thing ;o), so eats lots
of it. The really good unintended consequence is, of course, it cures
conservative's cranial-rectal inversion, which makes this liberal
feel good ;O).

Chem ferts are great at sterilizing the ground. They are salts and
over use kills just about everything that supports a plant in
"natural", microbiologically infested soil. When used, as intended,
they encourage the nitrogen consuming bacteria (not all bacteria)
to consume as much organic material in the soil as they can,
thereby depleting the soil of its' water holding capacity. This
causes the chem fert to drain away and pollute someone's drinking
water or, flow down the Mississippi where it creates a huge dead
zone in the Gulf of Mexico. There is also an over all loss of bacteria
which impacts the soil because the bacteria produce a mucous to
bind soil together which slows down their predators. This mucous
also helps prevent soil erosion. And if you like insects, you'll
be happy to hear that plants store the nitrates from chem ferts in their
soft, fast growing, nutrient laden leaves, which in turn, attracts
hungry insects.

So, you end up with dead soil, water pollution, soil erosion and, a
plague of insects. Wow, what a deal ;O) I mean, talk about getting
your money's worth. And speaking of money the less fertile your soil
becomes the more chem ferts you need to buy to get the same amount of
crop. I mean, is this a (Gingrich) conservative's wet dream or what?

Now compost may, or may not, be a fertilizer in the N P K sense of
the word. It is dependent on what is composted, be it vegetation
or doo-doo. Compost is simply stacking up and the natural breaking down
of organic material. If you want to get rid of any viable seeds or other
pathogens in the compost, make a bigger stack and it will generate
enough heat during its' decomposition to denature them. You can
occasionally spray some water on the pile or **** on it. I'm afraid
there are no commercial products needed to make compost.

The purpose of the compost is to feed the soil. Feed the soil and,
the soil will take care of your plants. Feed the bacteria and fungi
(the decomposers) in your soil and, they will feed the nematodes and
amoeba, who in turn fed the worms and insects, who feed burrowing
mammals. What you end up with is soil gifted with a dynamic,
balanced community of organism whose birth and death cycles enrich
the soil (NPK and much more) and, a soil that is well ventilated,
drained and, able to retain moisture. It doesn't make any profit
for Monsanto though unless you buy their seeds.

Truth be told, I don't compost very much. I just haven't developed
the habit. What I do, is grow what is called a "green manure" (plants
that either fix nitrogen or generate a lot of bio-mass in the soil)
early in the year. These get cut down two weeks before planting to
decompose where they are. Then I lay three to four inches of alfalfa
"mulch" on the soil. This mulch, as it breaks down, is my replacement
for compost. Then I lay my drip lines on the mulch and for my plants
that require heat, I lay clear plastic over it all and, cut holes
next to the drip emitters for planting.

Petroleum fertilizers and pesticides allow for huge monoculture
plantings but mixed crop organic farming can produce more total
food on the same acrage. The organic approach also grows healthy
soil.

GMO seeds don't produce more crop. Mostly they let you buy more
petroleum based Round-up to spray on your crop. They also produce
proteins that your immune system may or may not react to, in some
cases they kill butterflys, and there is always the concern of
genetic drift, where traits (like resistance to Round up) can be
passed to weeds.

So if anybody should have a guilty conscience, it is the "Gingrich"
conservatives (they aren't really conservatives) who promote snake
oil products that they don't understand or do understand but just
want to encourage snake oil sales.

Viva Castro
--

Billy
Bush and Pelosi Behind Bars
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KVTf...ef=patrick.net
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0aEo...eature=related

Lived in VA for sometime. The Chesapeake bay greened out due to lawn
fertilizer wash-off. All the oxygen was sucked out of the water.
Negatively affected the fish and oyster population big-time.

A creek within Austin, TX has been documented with multiple limbed frogs.
Traced back to run-off from a commonly used herbicide made by Monsanto.

--
Dave

Blattus Slafaly wrote:
kT wrote:
Blattus Slafaly wrote:
kT wrote:
RichD wrote:
The local grocery has a compost recycle bin,
for food scraps etc. Even the plates and utensils
go in there.

I was wondering, what constitutes 'composting'?
I mean, does it simply get dumped into a big grinder,
or is there some enzymatic chemistry involved?

And who/how/where receives it? Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?

That's an excellent question, actually.

There are two methods of compost, both work fine. The object is to
keep the kitchen scraps out of the dry garbage, it smells terrible
and make sorting it almost impossible, although most recyclers do
the sorting for you now, so even that isn't a adequate excuse for
not recycling anymore.

The first method is to simply bury the compost in rich dark soil, or
even sand works. In this case nature just runs its course, although
in sand the ants do most of the work. Gotta love those ants.

Only IDIOTS use herbicides and pesticides.

The second preferred method is to mix the compost with leaves and
grass ABOVE GROUND in a geometry where the innoculant (some soil for
instance) can spread through the mix, and raise the heat in the
center of the pile to a high enough temperature where the plant
material can break down quicker, and only beneficial gases are
produced. As you will quickly see an entire civilization of bugs and
insects and worms and bacteria will quickly take charge of the
situation and do most of the work for you.

All you have to do is turn over and mix the pile every once and a
while.


You can also have your bowel movements in a potty and dump it into
the compost pile.

Sure you can, if you want to RUIN your compost.

Human crap is good for composting.

But not in a traditional plant material composting bin.

It requires a special composting toilet, and can only really be used on
orchard trees, even then it's iffy without further deactivation (aging).

You can also have your bowel movements in a potty and dump it into the
compost pile.

Sure you can, if you want to RUIN your compost.

Human crap is good for composting.


If done properly, it is very good compost and does not at all ruin your
compost. If not done properly, it can contain dangerous diseases and
parasites that can infect your vegatables and you and anyone else that goes
into your garden. Most people don't know how to properly compost human
excrement, and for them doing so would be foolish and dangerous.

It still won't ruin your compost - plants love it. You can crap in your
garden if you want to, and plants will grow well so long as you don't crap
too much around any one plant. The smell might get a bit strong after a
while, and your neighbors might shun you for doing so.....

In article , Blattus
Slafaly wrote:

Human crap is good for composting.

Would that include presidential speeches and books by Deepak Chopra?

-paghat the ratgirl
--
visit my temperate gardening website:
http://www.paghat.com
visit my film reviews website:
http://www.weirdwildrealm.com

On Jul 30, 5:59 am, RichD wrote:
The local grocery has a compost recycle bin,
for food scraps etc. Even the plates and utensils
go in there.

I was wondering, what constitutes 'composting'?
I mean, does it simply get dumped into a big grinder,
or is there some enzymatic chemistry involved?

Pile up a bunch of stuff and let bugs, worms, microbes,
fungi do the rest.

And who/how/where receives it? Is it really
superior to petrochemical fertilizer, or is it
guilty conscience liberal feelgoodism?

Has low levels of NPK, so it's not a potent fertilizer,
although it can be used as potting soil if aged a couple
or more years; my five-year old lawn waste compost
outperforms expensive, quality bag soils like Pro-Mix
Ultimate Organic. It improves soil texture (or "tilth"), most
notably helping heavy clay soils drain better and loose
soils hold moisture.

Compost also boosts soil's beneficial microbe count,
helping plants extract nutrients from otherwise poor
soil with less need for fertilizers.

"Blattus Slafaly" wrote
Human crap is good for composting.

Well ---- No it isn't really.

If done on a large scale, ya. But on a small scale, - home composting -
it's both unsanitary and damages the compost.

Now if you have a new compost unit to start, then by all means, throw a
lump of dog shit into it, and wait until it's dark and take a good long ****
in it, and dump in some soil to get it activated.

Then Never again

Oh, and no grass clippings either - unless it's large scale.

The occasional broad leaf litter is ok though. But never large amounts.

Broad leaf litter will increase the carbon content of the compost, while
grass will increase the nitrogen content. In both cases, too much will make
it difficult to airate and can cause it to start to smell.