My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s

On 09/18/2010 08:44 PM, Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s


There was a show on PBS not long ago about a disease affecting
citrus around the world where it stays green called citrus
greening disease.

I did a Google search and there are lots of links. Unfortunately
it's all bad news. What area of the world are you in?

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&h...b8 af52b7e0b8




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On September 11, 2010 Muslims in England were burning American
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Psychos.

Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons
that refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These
tiny lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball
size. Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a
tiny yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a
rock.

The photo does look like Meyer lemon but it's hard to be sure. Have you
checked that the leaves and fruit are on the grafted stock not the root
stock?

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the
past. Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many
alternating yellow spots from tip and along edges to the back.


Where are you? What is the climate like? What season is it? How much sun
per day does this tree get?

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every
three weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.


Does that include trace elements? Deficiency diseases can cause yellowing
of the leaves.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Not before you check the soil moisture. Pouring on more water will not help
if it has plenty.



Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

What season is it? When did you last apply it? I wouldn't be feeding
heavily if it was the end of the growing season.



Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

No.


Apply steer manure?


Possibly but that from a heifer is better if the moon is waxing.

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s

David

On 9/18/10 6:44 PM, Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s

Patchy yellowing of the leaves often indicates a zinc deficiency. All
citrus require more zinc than most plants. They also require an acid
soil.

First of all, check the fertilizer you have already been using. Does it
contain zinc? If not, see if you can get zinc sulfate; apply about 1/4
cup from about 1 ft from the trunk to the edge of the drip zone.

Get an accurate pH test of the soil in the tree's root zone. If the pH
is greater than 6.0, broadcast soil sulfur in the same area that I
suggest for the zinc.

Finally, dwarf citrus is not as long-lived as standard citrus. Your
tree might be dying of old age.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

Thank you very much for listing some possible causes and some possible
fixes.

I live near Los Angles, CA in Panorama City, CA and summer season is
ending. Tree gets only afternoon sun. Fruit appears to be on trunk from
above the graft.

Possibilities a
1. Greening Disease: My tree leaves do have the characteristic yellow
splotches
2. Possible Zinc deficiency or not adequately acid soil.
3. Your tree might be dying of old age.

I will check for adequate moisture before watering again. Also will test
soil acidity for pH and correct with soil sulfur if less than 6.0. Will
add zinc sulfate if present food does not contain Zinc as trace element.

"IF" cause is Greening Disease, can another Dwarf Meyer Lemon be
planted in the same location? Must the soil be treated to kill Greening
in soil?

Many thanks. Dave_S



On 9/18/2010 7:31 PM, Mysterious Traveler wrote:
On 09/18/2010 08:44 PM, Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s


There was a show on PBS not long ago about a disease affecting
citrus around the world where it stays green called citrus
greening disease.

I did a Google search and there are lots of links. Unfortunately
it's all bad news. What area of the world are you in?

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&h...b8 af52b7e0b8

On Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:12:51 -0700, "David E. Ross"
wrote:

On 9/18/10 6:44 PM, Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s

Patchy yellowing of the leaves often indicates a zinc deficiency. All
citrus require more zinc than most plants. They also require an acid
soil.

First of all, check the fertilizer you have already been using. Does it
contain zinc? If not, see if you can get zinc sulfate; apply about 1/4
cup from about 1 ft from the trunk to the edge of the drip zone.

Get an accurate pH test of the soil in the tree's root zone. If the pH
is greater than 6.0, broadcast soil sulfur in the same area that I
suggest for the zinc.

Finally, dwarf citrus is not as long-lived as standard citrus. Your
tree might be dying of old age.

Exactly... 30 years is a ripe old age for any citrus but expecially
dwarf.

On 9/19/2010 5:43 AM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
On Sat, 18 Sep 2010 21:12:51 -0700, "David E. Ross"
wrote:

On 9/18/10 6:44 PM, Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s

Patchy yellowing of the leaves often indicates a zinc deficiency. All
citrus require more zinc than most plants. They also require an acid
soil.

First of all, check the fertilizer you have already been using. Does it
contain zinc? If not, see if you can get zinc sulfate; apply about 1/4
cup from about 1 ft from the trunk to the edge of the drip zone.

Get an accurate pH test of the soil in the tree's root zone. If the pH
is greater than 6.0, broadcast soil sulfur in the same area that I
suggest for the zinc.

Finally, dwarf citrus is not as long-lived as standard citrus. Your
tree might be dying of old age.

Exactly... 30 years is a ripe old age for any citrus but expecially
dwarf.

If the tree is dying ONLY of old age, not dying from GREENING DISEASE,
I might want to plant the new DWARF MEYER LEMON in the same location.
What should I do to the soil before planting the replacement tree in the
same location?

Thank you, Dave_S

Dave_s wrote:
Brooklyn1 wrote:
"David E. Ross" wrote:

Dave_s wrote:
My 30 year old Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree is growing in the ground.
This year it contains at least 10 dark green golf ball size lemons that
refuse to turn yellow, remain dark green and rock hard. These tiny
lemons appeared early summer, and very slowly became golf ball size.
Trouble is, that these lemons remain same size. Only two show a tiny
yellowing section (10%) and are still dark green and hard as a rock.

The leaves also do not look green and healthy as they have in the past.
Now leaves are not bright green, but green with many alternating yellow
spots from tip and along edges to the back.

I may have not deep watered often enough, roughly did water every three
weeks. Have been infrequently feeding with Scotts Citrus food.

Want to help this tree ripen those ten stagnated lemons.

Question is what can I do to revive this Meyer Lemon?

Another 24 hour deep watering?

Apply commercial Citrus dry plant food?

Apply 0-10-10 to stimulate fruiting?

Apply steer manure?

Sure need some suggestions. I can supply pictures if needed.
Thank you, Dave_s

Patchy yellowing of the leaves often indicates a zinc deficiency. All
citrus require more zinc than most plants. They also require an acid
soil.

First of all, check the fertilizer you have already been using. Does it
contain zinc? If not, see if you can get zinc sulfate; apply about 1/4
cup from about 1 ft from the trunk to the edge of the drip zone.

Get an accurate pH test of the soil in the tree's root zone. If the pH
is greater than 6.0, broadcast soil sulfur in the same area that I
suggest for the zinc.

Finally, dwarf citrus is not as long-lived as standard citrus. Your
tree might be dying of old age.

Exactly... 30 years is a ripe old age for any citrus but expecially
dwarf.

If the tree is dying ONLY of old age, not dying from GREENING DISEASE,
I might want to plant the new DWARF MEYER LEMON in the same location.
What should I do to the soil before planting the replacement tree in the
same location?

Of course this is something only you can decide but were it me and I
know that tree to be 30 years old and suffering I'd remove it now, in
it's entiety, roots and all as completely as possible.. bring to a
landfill but preferably burn them. And not knowing with certainty
about it being diseased I'd not plant another citrus tree in that
exact spot... I'd plant something else there and plant your lemon tree
in a different area as far away as possible.

On 9/19/10 5:18 AM, Dave_s wrote:
Thank you very much for listing some possible causes and some possible
fixes.

I live near Los Angles, CA in Panorama City, CA and summer season is
ending. Tree gets only afternoon sun. Fruit appears to be on trunk from
above the graft.

Possibilities a
1. Greening Disease: My tree leaves do have the characteristic yellow
splotches
2. Possible Zinc deficiency or not adequately acid soil.
3. Your tree might be dying of old age.

I will check for adequate moisture before watering again. Also will test
soil acidity for pH and correct with soil sulfur if less than 6.0. Will
add zinc sulfate if present food does not contain Zinc as trace element.

"IF" cause is Greening Disease, can another Dwarf Meyer Lemon be
planted in the same location? Must the soil be treated to kill Greening
in soil?

Many thanks. Dave_S

Add sulfur if the pH is GREATER than 6.0.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary

On 9/19/10 6:31 AM, Dave_s wrote:

If the tree is dying ONLY of old age, not dying from GREENING DISEASE,
I might want to plant the new DWARF MEYER LEMON in the same location.
What should I do to the soil before planting the replacement tree in the
same location?

Remove it soon. That means digging out a hole about 4 ft in diameter
and 3 ft down. Fill the hole with a mix of native soil, compost, and
peat moss until the packed soil is level with the surrounding soil.
Then treat the hole with a soil fumigant (available in many nurseries).

Let the spot go fallow until next March before planting a new tree. A
newly planted citrus is going to send out new shoots quite soon after
planting. You are likely to see some night-time frost in the winter,
which might kill that new growth. Thus, you want to wait until the
frosts are past.

Just before planting the new tree, dig out the hole and place a generous
amount -- 2-3 handsful -- of bone meal or superphosphate in the bottom.
Stir that into about 3-4 inches of the soil at the bottom of the hole.
Place another few inches of unenriched soil on top of that. The
phosphorus in either fertilizer will promote flowering and fruiting.
Since it does not readily dissolve and leach through the soil, it must
be placed where roots will find it.

Plant the tree slightly above grade so that the packed soil is slightly
mounded. Citrus requires good drainage. Water should not accumulate
around the trunk.

Protect from snails, which love not only citrus leaves but also citrus
bark. I have several strands of bare copper wire wrapped around the
large pots for my dwarf lemon, orange, and kumquat. I have several
strands of the wire loosely wrapped around the trunk of my dwarf
tangelo, which is in the ground. Others use copper foil. Also, instead
of using snail bait, I have place carnivorous decollate snails in my
garden. (See http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r107500111.html.)
However, it takes about three years for those to give good control
against the brown snails that are so destructive in southern California;
by that time, the brown snails can kill your tree by eating the bark all
the way around.

--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean
influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19)
Gardening diary at http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary