What do they use now? Provide some information so I can put it into the FAQ I'm
compiling. If you are speaking of Treks, it's not wholly a wood product, but a
composite of saw dust and plastic.



On Mon, 05 May 2003 22:16:23 -0500, Kevin Miller wrote:


Most treated lumber now uses arsenic-free preservatives... all these
posts refer to the old type


On Mon, 5 May 2003 00:40:26 -0400, "David J. Bockman"
wrote:

Tom,

No thanks on the google search.... I was hoping you could point me to
whatever peer reviewed literature supported your claim.

I'd be interested in any peer-reviewed scientific literature citing the
dangers of using CCA treated lumber in my garden as well.

Dave

"Tom Jaszewski" wrote in message
. ..

David,

For a guy that uses treated lumber in his gardens, its unlikely to
prove of any value. If you are really interested a simple search
of "Glyphosate soil biology" in google will provide both sides of the
research spectrum.


On Sun, 4 May 2003 15:19:36 -0400, "David J. Bookmark"
wrote:

Tom,

Would you mind posting any links to peer-reviewed scientific literature
on
this subject?

Dave



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of
poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy
crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

Buy a roll of heavy duty clear plastic, not black. Lay it over the area you
wish to solarize and hold down the ends so no air can get in and leave it all
summer to bake. Water if very well before you lay the plastic over it. By the
end of summer, the soil will be solarized. In Texas, the end of spring it is
solarized of weeds, seeds and most pathogens.


On Mon, 05 May 2003 22:28:46 -0500, Kevin Miller wrote:


Could you please explain solarizing

On Mon, 05 May 2003 02:11:34 -0700, "Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A."
wrote:

Phisherman wrote:

On Sun, 04 May 2003 08:12:42 -0500, wrote:

I'm in the process of clearing a grassy area near my house. I've
applied Roundup to kill the grass and will either remove the dead
grass completely or just turn it over. I plan to put ornamental
shrubs and some perennials in this area after the bed if prepared.
How long should I wait before putting in the new plants?

There's very little wait. RoundUp does not contaminate the soil like
some other plant killers. Bottom line is follow the rule: Read the
label.

Aside from the usual controversies, it's an expensive method for
clearing large areas. Solarizing is thorough, doesn't miss any weeds,
and requires nothing more than a reusable $5.00 tarp.

It's amazing to me that after all the time I've been gone, that this
argument is still going on. The peer reviewed literature has been out
there for years and yet there are some who still need others to point
them to the light rather than do any research on their own. Even the
manufacturers have admitted that barriers should be provided (paint,
plastic etc.) to avoid ground contamination or the possibility that
individuals with compromised or immature immune systems (aka children)
can make even simple contact with their product...



susan

animaux wrote:

On Mon, 5 May 2003 00:40:26 -0400, "David J. Bockman"
wrote:

I'd be interested in any peer-reviewed scientific literature citing the
dangers of using CCA treated lumber in my garden as well.

Dave

http://www.in.gov/idem/planning/cca/ccafactsheet.html

http://www.extension.umn.edu/extensi...tedLumber.html

http://www.mchd.com/pdf/ccawood.pdf

http://www.wolmanizedwood.com/consumer2.html

On Tue, 06 May 2003 13:18:54 GMT, animaux wrote:



Here it is...


Arsenic-free pressure treated landscape timbers
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


A safer pressure treated landscape timber
ACQ is the pressure treatment of choice for pressure treated lumber.
ACQ does not contain the arsenic that CCA lumber contains making it
safer to handle and dispose of. Consider ACQ timbers for your project
today.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Advantages

Does not require a EPA warning label

Safe to handle

Same performance as CCA

Will not leach toxic chemical into the environment


Our timbers are safer for the environment because they do not contain
arsenic...a cancer causing substance that is found in other pressure
treated lumber. Arsenic has been shown to leach from CCA treated
lumber and has been banned from many public parks and play areas.







What do they use now? Provide some information so I can put it into the FAQ I'm
compiling. If you are speaking of Treks, it's not wholly a wood product, but a
composite of saw dust and plastic.



On Mon, 05 May 2003 22:16:23 -0500, Kevin Miller wrote:


Most treated lumber now uses arsenic-free preservatives... all these
posts refer to the old type

Regarding Roundup:

I would like to eliminate the use of 'chemicals' from my garden, but
right now it is infested with equisetales (aka horsetails, mare's tails,
etc). There are some big patches, others are in small clusters among
the vegetables and flowers. The only way I know to get rid of them is
to spray in the growing season with glyphosate. Even then you have to
give them a thrashing first to scrape their surface and let the
weedkiller penetrate.

If anyone knows of an alternative, I'd be grateful to hear about it.

Meantime, the best I'm hoping for is to keep the amount of glyphosate I
use down to a minimum. Even that is a problem, since the only form I
can buy locally is ready-made solutions in spray containers. I have a
vague memory that you used to get it in other forms, in applicators that
allowed you to dab it on to individual weeds.

Does anyone know of any devices like this? Or could I simply use a
paintbrush?

There is also the problem of our climate. You can't spray unless it's
calm, and for plants to absorb the stuff the plants need to be dry, and
need to stay dry for several hours after spraying. That means waiting
till the dew has burned off, and hoping the forecast is right.

Again, is there any way round this? Could I spray, then cover the area
for a few hours?

I shall be trying out different methods, but I'd be grateful for any advice.

On Mon, 12 May 2003 18:00:32 +0100, Rufus
wrote:

Regarding Roundup:

I would like to eliminate the use of 'chemicals' from my garden, but
right now it is infested with equisetales (aka horsetails, mare's tails,
snip
I shall be trying out different methods, but I'd be grateful for any advice.

Timing is VERY important. Carefully examine weather forcasts. I found
it better to look at two different forcasts than just one. Pick a
calm sunny day. Mix up a water/soap solution (perhaps 2T. dishwashing
liquid to a gallon of warm water) and spray the plants you want to
kill. Allow this to dry for an hour or two, then use the RoundUp.
The soap procedure intensifies the RoundUp and speeds absorption.

On Mon, 12 May 2003 18:00:32 +0100, Rufus
wrote:
I have a
vague memory that you used to get it in other forms, in applicators that
allowed you to dab it on to individual weeds.

Does anyone know of any devices like this? Or could I simply use a
paintbrush?

You could.
A variety of kitchen tongs with sponges glued to them (or, I'm
imagining, little pockets made in squares of sponge to fit on the ends
of tongs) make good applicators.

There is also the problem of our climate. You can't spray unless it's
calm, and for plants to absorb the stuff the plants need to be dry, and
need to stay dry for several hours after spraying. That means waiting
till the dew has burned off, and hoping the forecast is right.

Again, is there any way round this? Could I spray, then cover the area
for a few hours?

Most broadleaf weed-killers AND Roundup recommend a sunny day for
application. Something about the plant absorbing the material. Surely
there are sunny days where you live!

Frogleg wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2003 18:00:32 +0100, Rufus
wrote:
I have a
vague memory that you used to get it in other forms, in applicators that
allowed you to dab it on to individual weeds.

Does anyone know of any devices like this? Or could I simply use a
paintbrush?

You could.
A variety of kitchen tongs with sponges glued to them (or, I'm
imagining, little pockets made in squares of sponge to fit on the ends
of tongs) make good applicators.

Put on rubber gloves. Use your fingertips as applicators.

On Tue, 13 May 2003 20:08:43 -0700, "Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A."
wrote:

Put on rubber gloves. Use your fingertips as applicators.

Actually rubber gloves under a pair of cotton works very well and at
least limits contact with your soil.

it's hard to believe gardeners can be so lazy and poison soil, it
perpetuates and endless cycle of poor soil stewardship.



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

wrote in message . ..
I'm in the process of clearing a grassy area near my house. I've
applied Roundup to kill the grass and will either remove the dead
grass completely or just turn it over. I plan to put ornamental
shrubs and some perennials in this area after the bed if prepared.
How long should I wait before putting in the new plants?

Preferably, apply on a sunny day, wait several days for the grass to
shrivel (it may be more if it's a tough grass like bermuda, but if
it's a typical cool season grass it'll be 2-3 days). You don't need to
turn it over.

I didn't know what had cut the tops off of my tulips. I was SHOCKED to
see it was a squirral. We have had one squirral here in 13 yrs.

(That squirral forgot a pecan and i have a baby tree that i will plant
for it)