(Maybe this didn't get seen because I appended it to earlier post?)


Followup:

Concerned because beaucoup runners but zip strawberries. Tried to ascertain on-line whether allowing runners inhibits fruit production, but no clear reply. One sites suggested cutting off runners first year.

I guess I could set up an experiment, cutting off runners in Group A and allowing them in Group B.

But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

HB

On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 6:35:29 PM UTC-7, Higgs Boson wrote:
(Maybe this didn't get seen because I appended it to earlier post?)


Followup:

Concerned because beaucoup runners but zip strawberries. Tried to ascertain on-line whether allowing runners inhibits fruit production, but no clear reply. One site suggested cutting off runners first year.

I guess I could set up an experiment, cutting off runners in Group A and allowing them in Group B.

But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

HB

I did another search and found:

http://strawberryplants.org/2010/08/...-strawberries/

with lots of information, but none that seems applicable to my So. Calif coastal plot. The only possibility that resonates is "don't expect a lot first year".

But then we are told in many places that strawberries should be replaced every 3 years So that doesn't give much bang for the buck.

Interested in your comments, esp. as pertains to similar climates.

HB

Higgs Boson wrote:
....
But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

what variety(ies) did you plant? have they
been getting enough water? how hot has it
been? how much light do they get? are they
near a wall or rocks that may be reflecting or
storing heat?


Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

if you don't need the extra plants to
fill a space then it is better to not have
the plants putting energy into runners.
3-5 plants per square foot is plenty.


songbird

On Thursday, July 10, 2014 2:59:11 PM UTC-7, songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

...

But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

what variety(ies) did you plant?
Can't remember exact. June-bearing. Chandler, a local standard.

have they been getting enough water?
Yes

how hot has it been?
Varies between 70-75 F to days of 80+

how much light do they get?
a lot

are they near a wall or rocks that may be reflecting or storing heat?
Yes. Against a pink block wall, nearest plant about 1-1/2' away; others 3-4'
IS THAT BAD????


Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

if you don't need the extra plants to fill a space then it is better to not have the plants putting energy into runners.

Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!
ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT HOW LONG KEEP PLANTS?

3-5 plants per square foot is plenty.

At present have far fewer.

Tx for input, Songie!

HB

Higgs Boson wrote:
songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

...

But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

what variety(ies) did you plant?
Can't remember exact. June-bearing. Chandler, a local standard.

did they have flowers/fruit on them when
you planted them?

anyways, likely they are past the time
for flowering/fruiting and that's it until
next season.


have they been getting enough water?
Yes

how hot has it been?
Varies between 70-75 F to days of 80+


how much light do they get?
a lot

that helps.


are they near a wall or rocks that may be reflecting or storing heat?
Yes. Against a pink block wall, nearest plant about 1-1/2' away; others 3-4'
IS THAT BAD????

only if it gets too hot. in cooler climates
it is a way of extending the season.


Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

if you don't need the extra plants to
fill a space then it is better to not have
the plants putting energy into runners.

Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!
ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT HOW LONG KEEP PLANTS?

most references and my own experience says
about three years and then move the patch
to another spot. if you don't have bug or
disease problems then you can keep them in
the same place, but you will still want to
replace the oldest plants and do some work
on the soil to get it recharged. i turn
most of my plants under and grow beans and
peas and add green manure/worm castings.
mulching with pine-needles, shredded bark,
etc. seems to be going well other than the
black spot, but it doesn't affect fruit
quality or much else so i don't worry just
makes the plants look sad right about now
(after the first big crop). in a few weeks
they'll look ok again when they get the
new growth going.


3-5 plants per square foot is plenty.

At present have far fewer.

put some ever bearing plants in and you might
have another crop or two yet.


Tx for input, Songie!

y.w.


songbird

On Saturday, July 12, 2014 6:05:49 AM UTC-7, songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

songbird wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:

But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

what variety(ies) did you plant?

Can't remember exact. June-bearing. Chandler, a local standard.



did they have flowers/fruit on them when

you planted them?

No fruit. Flowers either when planted or VERY SOON afterwards.
anyways, likely they are past the time for flowering/fruiting and that's it until next season.

Grrrr! It's partly my fault for buying into the inaccurate runner philosophy. Wasted at least 3 weeks. Have just cut off all, will replant the babies just for the helluvit.

have they been getting enough water?

Yes

how hot has it been?

Varies between 70-75 F to days of 80+

how much light do they get?

a lot

that helps.

are they near a wall or rocks that may be reflecting or storing heat?

Yes. Against a pink block wall, nearest plant about 1-1/2' away; others 3-4'

IS THAT BAD????

only if it gets too hot. in cooler climates it is a way of extending the season.

So doesn't sound like it would be a factor here.

Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

if you don't need the extra plants to

fill a space then it is better to not have

the plants putting energy into runners.



Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!

ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT HOW LONG KEEP PLANTS?



most references and my own experience says

about three years and then move the patch

to another spot.

if you don't have bug or disease problems then you can keep them in

the same place, but you will still want to replace the oldest plants and do some work on the soil to get it recharged.

OK, wisdom filed for future use -- if I'm spared to carry out the move g
My last foray into strawberries is probably 4-5 years ago, and I don't remember and problems. Only did away with the site because of general garden config.

i turn most of my plants under and grow beans and peas and add green manure/worm castings.

mulching with pine-needles, shredded bark,

Ah, another worm casting freak! I debated started my own production, but ended up buying worm castings from store. Always use for transplant, and you're reminding me I have to cultivate around roots of many plants, and mix in worm casting.

Hard to keep up with things, given all the watering one has to do.
Water is very expen$ive here and will probably get more so, given our State drought conditions.

etc. seems to be going well other than the

black spot, but it doesn't affect fruit

quality or much else so i don't worry just

makes the plants look sad right about now

(after the first big crop). in a few weeks

they'll look ok again when they get the

new growth going.





3-5 plants per square foot is plenty.



At present have far fewer.

put some ever bearing plants in and you might have another crop or two yet.

From your mouth to Her ear! Appreciate all the practical advice.


Tx for input, Songie!



y.w.

HB





songbird

Higgs Boson wrote:
songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:
songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

But I planted the damn things to get fruit NOW!

what variety(ies) did you plant?

Can't remember exact. June-bearing. Chandler, a local standard.



did they have flowers/fruit on them when

you planted them?

No fruit. Flowers either when planted or VERY SOON afterwards.

your plants had flowers but never got fruit?


anyways, likely they are past the time for flowering/fruiting and that's it until next season.


Grrrr! It's partly my fault for buying into the inaccurate runner philosophy. Wasted at least 3 weeks. Have just cut off all, will replant the babies just for the helluvit.

if you wanted babies leave the runners on
until the babies rooted. but anyways, with
the empty spaces there's a better use for
them until next year anyways.


have they been getting enough water?

Yes

how hot has it been?

Varies between 70-75 F to days of 80+

how much light do they get?

a lot

that helps.

are they near a wall or rocks that may be reflecting or storing heat?

Yes. Against a pink block wall, nearest plant about 1-1/2' away; others 3-4'

IS THAT BAD????

only if it gets too hot. in cooler climates it is a way of extending the season.

So doesn't sound like it would be a factor here.

depends, if a hot reflection discourages
insects then you may not get much pollination
going on, if it blocks the wind or rain, that
cuts down on pollination too. so there's
always effects perhaps unintended, but to sort
them out may take some observation.

when i saw the lack of bees this strawberry
flowering bout i made a point of watering them
with the hose to encourage pollination even if
it was only the self-pollinating going on.
there were other bees that came along eventually
and other insects too besides bees which did
some of the pollinating, but all told, i liked
to be sure.


Any comment on runners vs. fruit?

if you don't need the extra plants to

fill a space then it is better to not have

the plants putting energy into runners.



Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!

ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT HOW LONG KEEP PLANTS?



most references and my own experience says

about three years and then move the patch

to another spot.

if you don't have bug or disease problems then you can keep them in

the same place, but you will still want to replace the oldest plants and do some work on the soil to get it recharged.

OK, wisdom filed for future use -- if I'm spared to carry out the move g
My last foray into strawberries is probably 4-5 years ago, and I don't remember and problems. Only did away with the site because of general garden config.

i turn most of my plants under and grow beans and peas and add green manure/worm castings.

mulching with pine-needles, shredded bark,

Ah, another worm casting freak! I debated started my own production, but ended up buying worm castings from store. Always use for transplant, and you're reminding me I have to cultivate around roots of many plants, and mix in worm casting.

i miswrote that and should have said worms/worm
castings as i also add worms. most of them will
die and provide fertilizer directly from their
remains, the few that survive (those that come from
the cocoons and those teeny ones) help keep the
rest of the population going. they are great
workers for our heavy soil, helping to break it up
and to get nutrients and air moving. for a few
years a strawberry patch is mostly no-till for
me other than spot weeding, getting rid of the
too many runners and adding mulches on top. the
worms do the digging.

right now i'm gradually shifting my worm
species diversity by including more natives in
my breeding bins. it will take a few years
before i'll get a large enough population
going, but it is interesting.


Hard to keep up with things, given all the watering one has to do.
Water is very expen$ive here and will probably get more so, given our State drought conditions.

i sure hope that improves... but there
are plants that will still fruit even in
arid climates, so all is not lost, just
that people may have to shift their
production towards those more arid tolerant
crops/plants.

i'd be recycling every bit of gray water
i possibly could out there. putting a
plug in the drain and scouping out the
water if i had to. when it gets that dry
i wouldn't want to waste a drop.


....
3-5 plants per square foot is plenty.



At present have far fewer.

put some ever bearing plants in and you might have another crop or two yet.

From your mouth to Her ear! Appreciate all the practical advice.

i wonder if you'll be able to find ever bearing
plants this late.


songbird

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On Saturday, July 12, 2014 9:39:32 PM UTC-7, songbird wrote:
Higgs Boson wrote:

songbird wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:

songbird wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



[...]

Any comment on runners vs. fruit?



if you don't need the extra plants to fill a space then it is better to not have the plants putting energy into runners.


Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!

Update: Need advice on how to "tie down" the runners. Went to some strawberry groups but none specific on this point.

http://strawberryplants.org/2010/05/...nners-stolons/

I have tried to root them, but doesn't seem to take. Would you use clothespins, or some hardware, or...?

Have given up on strawberries this year, so thought I might as well take advantage of mass quantities of runners to make more plants.

TIA for any runner tie-down techniques.

HB

On Monday, August 25, 2014 8:01:20 PM UTC-4, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
On Saturday, July 12, 2014 9:39:32 PM UTC-7, songbird wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:



songbird wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:



songbird wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:







[...]



Any comment on runners vs. fruit?







if you don't need the extra plants to fill a space then it is better to not have the plants putting energy into runners.





Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!



Update: Need advice on how to "tie down" the runners. Went to some strawberry groups but none specific on this point.



http://strawberryplants.org/2010/05/...nners-stolons/



I have tried to root them, but doesn't seem to take. Would you use clothespins, or some hardware, or...?



Have given up on strawberries this year, so thought I might as well take advantage of mass quantities of runners to make more plants.



TIA for any runner tie-down techniques.



HB

I usually place a small stone on top of the runner very close to the new leaf set. It wouldn't hurt a thing to leave it there until next spring.

On Tuesday, August 26, 2014 9:01:16 AM UTC-7, Steve Peek wrote:
On Monday, August 25, 2014 8:01:20 PM UTC-4, Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

On Saturday, July 12, 2014 9:39:32 PM UTC-7, songbird wrote:



Higgs Boson wrote:

songbird wrote:







Higgs Boson wrote:

songbird wrote:

Higgs Boson wrote:

[...]


Any comment on runners vs. fruit?
if you don't need the extra plants to fill a space then it is better to not have the plants putting energy into runners.

Aha! That's what I thought but was misled by contrary info. As I noted earlier, since we're told that strawberries should be pulled after 3+ years, need action now!



Update: Need advice on how to "tie down" the runners. Went to some strawberry groups but none specific on this point.


http://strawberryplants.org/2010/05/...nners-stolons/

I have tried to root them, but doesn't seem to take. Would you use clothespins, or some hardware, or...?







Have given up on strawberries this year, so thought I might as well take advantage of mass quantities of runners to make more plants.







TIA for any runner tie-down techniques.







HB



I usually place a small stone on top of the runner very close to the new leaf set. It wouldn't hurt a thing to leave it there until next spring.

So low-tech & practical! Tx!

Any other suggestions?

HB

Hypatia Nachshon wrote:
Steve Peek wrote:

I usually place a small stone on top of the
runner very close to the new leaf set. It
wouldn't hurt a thing to leave it there until
next spring.

So low-tech & practical! Tx!

Any other suggestions?

that's what i do too.

the runners will root into about anything
as long as there is moisture.

if there is a lot of stronger winds moving
the runner around you can tie it down with a
stick bent in half and stuck in the ground.
the bit of bark that holds the sticks together
is often strong enough and lasts long enough
for the runner to root.

i've used bits of wire, coathangers, longer
clothespins or just bits of sticks and they
all worked just fine. since we have tons of
crushed limestone around i can often find a
bit of a longer piece to use that fits across
a runner.


songbird

On Tuesday, August 26, 2014 4:42:41 PM UTC-7, songbird wrote:
Hypatia Nachshon wrote:

Steve Peek wrote:



I usually place a small stone on top of the

runner very close to the new leaf set. It

wouldn't hurt a thing to leave it there until

next spring.



So low-tech & practical! Tx!



Any other suggestions?



that's what i do too.



the runners will root into about anything

as long as there is moisture.



if there is a lot of stronger winds moving

the runner around you can tie it down with a

stick bent in half and stuck in the ground.

the bit of bark that holds the sticks together

is often strong enough and lasts long enough

for the runner to root.



i've used bits of wire, coathangers, longer

clothespins or just bits of sticks and they

all worked just fine. since we have tons of

crushed limestone around i can often find a

bit of a longer piece to use that fits across

a runner.

More great suggestions! Will get my posterior out there first thing and start nailing those puppies down.

HB