Hi Group,

I'm hoping that someone may be able to help diagnose a
problem with a maple tree on my lot in the Toronto, Ontario
area (zone 5).

Short history:
We moved to this home about 18 months ago and were told that
this is a "globe maple", perhaps 10 years old. The previous
owner claimed that it had been quite wide in 2002-3,
extending almost to the house in the background (12-15
feet). Because of this it had been pruned back to approx.
8-10 feet in diameter. It is now approx. 12-15 feet across.
I've posted pictures to Webshots showing the tree from base
to tiptop.
http://community.webshots.com/album/371776352TmMgNe?762

The problem:
One side of the trunk has apparently had some blistering or
trauma in the past (photos 1 2 5 7 8) and this has returned
in parallel strips as seen in photos 1 2 3. The extent of
the earlier damage in the 'ball' of branches can be seen in
photos 4 5 6 8. The new split in the bark often weeps
sap/liquid all the way to the ground. (Difficult to detail
as it has rained lots in the last 10 days.) Recent storms
have blown a couple bushels of curled leaves out of the
tree. The tree is shaded only in the very early AM and
after ~4:00pm by the house next door. Like all maples in
this region, leaves last fall were largely covered in mold
but no other maples (we have 3 others and many neighboring)
are similarly ailing like this globe.

This is a photo of a similar, younger, but apparently
healthier specimen in the same climate zone, with
description.
http://www.city.hamilton.on.ca/Parks...cies_Globe.JPG

GLOBE MAPLE
Norway Maple variety, dense round form
Ball shaped crown
Fast growing to 25' spreads to 15'
Pale green leaves, fall colour is yellow
Suited for small lots or under hydro lines


This three is great for shade so I'm hoping that it will
survive many more years, but this blistering and splitting
of the bark is worrisome. Can anyone provide info/advice?

Thanks,
--
+ Tom + antonomasia-at-canada-dot-com

TomH wrote in
:


Hi Group,

snip

This three is great for shade so I'm hoping that it will
survive many more years, but this blistering and splitting
of the bark is worrisome. Can anyone provide info/advice?

Wow, this tree has a lot going on. I'm fairly certain the vertical cracks
are frostcracks, and it appears that a limb was torn down at some point,
pulling a lot of live bark down as it fell.

I have to tell you, I loathe Norway Maples in all their various forms for
this very reason. As well, they have shallow, greedy root systems and
vigorous seeds which sprout everywhere. They are susceptible to verticullum
wilt, tarspot, and anthracnose. They have lackluster fall color. There
really isn;t anything you can do with regard to the cracking.


--
David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7)
email:
http://beyondgardening.com/Albums

Looks like sunscald to me; common in thin barked trees exposed to sun
on the south or se sides. Sets the tree up for various and sundry
fungal diseases.

Acer platanoides, which is what I think you've got, is going to be a
big tree at maturity 40-50'x40-50' -- apparently much too big for where
you've got it, since someone has already pruned it drastically.

Personally, I'd start looking for specimens that fit the space available,
choose one and plant it to replace your norway maple, taking the maple down
as soon as your other tree becomes more established. It's easier and cheaper
sooner than later, and by choosing a species that fits the site size, exposure
and soil type, you'll have a good chance of having a healthy, long-lived tree
that adds value to your property.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandg
arden/diagnostics/mapleother-s.html

http://www.plantamnesty.org/pruning_tips_content.htm

Kay

LOL@ the idea that another tree could begin to get established in the greedy
root zone of a norway maple. I think the owner will have to bite the bullet
and take down the maple first, as painful as it will be to do without shade
for a few years. Red maples are fairly fast growing and don't have the bad
habits of either the Norway maple or silver maple, which grows VERY fast.
"Kay Lancaster" wrote in message
...
Looks like sunscald to me; common in thin barked trees exposed to sun
on the south or se sides. Sets the tree up for various and sundry
fungal diseases.

Acer platanoides, which is what I think you've got, is going to be a
big tree at maturity 40-50'x40-50' -- apparently much too big for where
you've got it, since someone has already pruned it drastically.

Personally, I'd start looking for specimens that fit the space available,
choose one and plant it to replace your norway maple, taking the maple
down
as soon as your other tree becomes more established. It's easier and
cheaper
sooner than later, and by choosing a species that fits the site size,
exposure
and soil type, you'll have a good chance of having a healthy, long-lived
tree
that adds value to your property.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandg
arden/diagnostics/mapleother-s.html

http://www.plantamnesty.org/pruning_tips_content.htm

Kay

On Fri, 17 Jun 2005 22:59:55 GMT, David Bockman
wrote:


Hi David, and thanks for your reply.

Wow, this tree has a lot going on. I'm fairly certain the vertical cracks
are frostcracks, and it appears that a limb was torn down at some point,
pulling a lot of live bark down as it fell.

I'm fairly certain that you are correct about this being
frostcracks. The latest were noticed this spring, and the
bark has popped away from the crevices which opened
underneath. The limb damage may be damage that extended
_up_ from the lower bark.


I have to tell you, I loathe Norway Maples in all their various forms for
this very reason. As well, they have shallow, greedy root systems and
vigorous seeds which sprout everywhere. They are susceptible to verticullum
wilt, tarspot, and anthracnose. They have lackluster fall color.

They also produce large amounts of 'garbage' -buds, keys,
leaves- all year.


There really isn;t anything you can do with regard to the cracking.

Would it be helpful to use pruning paste on the exposed core
wood?

Thanks again,

Tom

--
+ TomH + antonomasia-at-canada-dot-com

On 18 Jun 2005 02:42:02 GMT, Kay Lancaster
wrote:

Thanks for your reply, Kay.

Looks like sunscald to me; common in thin barked trees exposed to sun
on the south or se sides. Sets the tree up for various and sundry
fungal diseases.

Yes, some of this looks like sunscald, however it is on the
more northern flank. The broader openings lead me to agree
with David Bockman. (Not that one ailment is preferable to
the other!)


Acer platanoides, which is what I think you've got, is going to be a
big tree at maturity 40-50'x40-50' -- apparently much too big for where
you've got it, since someone has already pruned it drastically.

Yes, I believe it is a 'Norway', however, it is rather small
for its age. The pruning was apparently to keep it as the
'globe maple' the original owner purchased. I'll have to
keep it well pruned because of the potential for size.


Personally, I'd start looking for specimens that fit the space available,
choose one and plant it to replace your norway maple, taking the maple down
as soon as your other tree becomes more established. It's easier and cheaper
sooner than later, and by choosing a species that fits the site size, exposure
and soil type, you'll have a good chance of having a healthy, long-lived tree
that adds value to your property.

If it comes out, we may well take the opportunity to
rearrange some stonework and other bedding sites. (And live
with an umbrella for shade in the meantime.)

Thanks again,
Tom
--
+ TomH + antonomasia-at-canada-dot-com

TomH wrote in
:

Would it be helpful to use pruning paste on the exposed core
wood?

Nope. )




--
David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7)
email:
http://beyondgardening.com/Albums

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 12:12:58 -0400, TomH said:

] On 18 Jun 2005 02:42:02 GMT, Kay Lancaster
] wrote:
]
[]
]
] Acer platanoides, which is what I think you've got, is going to be a
] big tree at maturity 40-50'x40-50' -- apparently much too big for where
] you've got it, since someone has already pruned it drastically.
]
] Yes, I believe it is a 'Norway', however, it is rather small
] for its age. The pruning was apparently to keep it as the
] 'globe maple' the original owner purchased. I'll have to
] keep it well pruned because of the potential for size.
]

Hi Tom,

I believe Kay may be grouping all cultivars of A. platanoides together,
which does describe your tree IMO. A. platanoides 'Globosum', is
what is commonly called a Globe Maple. James Harris describes this
as "a small tree to 10m (30ft) high, with a dense, round shape." The
van Gelderens describe it as "A modestly growing tree with a flat-topped
crown, densely branched.... fruits hardly ever formed." (This tree doesn't
figure among the maples I have in the garden, so I can't comment
from personal experience.)

So if it dropping seed all over the place, and growing like a weed, it is probably
not a globe maple, but some other A. platanoides pruned to a "globe-like"
shape. Still, one comment suggest you've got the real cultivar (small for
its age).

Injured maples do bleed a lot, but although yours has been through the
wars, they're a tough lot. Were I you, I'd give it a few years to see if
it recovers.

HTH,

-E
--
Emery Davis
You can reply to
by removing the well known companies

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 13:07:00 +0200, Emery Davis
wrote:

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 12:12:58 -0400, TomH said:

] Yes, I believe it is a 'Norway', however, it is rather small
] for its age. The pruning was apparently to keep it as the
] 'globe maple' the original owner purchased. I'll have to
] keep it well pruned because of the potential for size.
]

So if it dropping seed all over the place, and growing like a weed, it is probably
not a globe maple, but some other A. platanoides pruned to a "globe-like"
shape. Still, one comment suggest you've got the real cultivar (small for
its age).

Not dropping keys like its neighborhood brethren, but does
grow rapidly. I suspect it would easily attain 25x25' if
allowed to spread out, having seen specimens like these:
http://www.midwestlandscapeplants.or...?speciesid=416
http://www.diplomlandespfleger.de/en...sglobosum.html

The leaves are much as decribed he
"Leaves sharply and acutely dentate, red-brown in spring,
developing to medium green, and yellow in fall."
http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/acplg.htm


Injured maples do bleed a lot, but although yours has been through the
wars, they're a tough lot. Were I you, I'd give it a few years to see if
it recovers.

I think that I will enjoy this tree in the summer, and NOT
in the fall with leaves and pruning.

Thanks for your input.
--
+ TomH + antonomasia-at-canada-dot-com

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 14:32:01 -0400, TomH said:

[]
] The leaves are much as decribed he
] "Leaves sharply and acutely dentate, red-brown in spring,
] developing to medium green, and yellow in fall."
] http://oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/acplg.htm
]

Tom,

As chance would have it I just received a new maple reference,
by Antoine le Hardy de Beaulieu. FYI, here's his bit on
'Globosum:'

"A very beautiful cultivar, 8 to 12m (26-39 ft) tall, with a flat
crown, and globular, very dense branching. This shape is
retained without cutting or pruning but develops slowly. The
green leaves are similar in shape but smaller than those of the
species. In early spring, the wholly unfolded young leaves
present a remarkable appearance: olive green, with red
bracts and beautiful yellow flowers -- truly magnificent. This
old cultivar is still very much in use. Its globular habit and
its proportions make it suitable for urban sites, tree rows,
lane borders, and so forth."

There are a couple of pictures, it looks very showy in springtime.

-E

--
Emery Davis
You can reply to
by removing the well known companies

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 13:10:16 +0200, Emery Davis
wrote:


As chance would have it I just received a new maple reference,
by Antoine le Hardy de Beaulieu. FYI, here's his bit on
'Globosum:'

Sounds like what I've got.

Thanks again.

--
+ TomH + antonomasia-at-canada-dot-com

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