Kansas lawn and zero turn toro. Should I buy a pull behind areator or is
this a waste of money? If one areates enough does it have any smoothing
effect? Lawn is 9/10th's of a acre. Looking at the Home Depot Brinly 40 inch
pull behind.
Thanks, Tracy

Tracy Viles wrote:

Kansas lawn and zero turn toro. Should I buy a pull behind areator or is
this a waste of money? If one areates enough does it have any smoothing
effect? Lawn is 9/10th's of a acre. Looking at the Home Depot Brinly 40 inch
pull behind.
Thanks, Tracy

when you are pulling your pull behind aerator with
your zero turn toro and you do your first zero turn
on your toro while pulling your new Home Depot Brinly
40 inch aerator, please have someone take pictures of
that and post them on the web. I'm sure doing so will
top the current pine stick story.

thank you.

a star tooth style aerator is the one you can gain the
most benefit from. use it anytime you fell like playing
with it with one exception and that being after first
frost. most turf types do not benefit from having their
roots exposed to extremely cold air. while you are at
the Home Depot look for their large retaining wall block.
they weight 52 pounds each and make great dead weight in
the load tray for forcing the star teeth into the ground.
four of them should do the trick.

Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:
Kansas lawn and zero turn toro. Should I buy a pull behind areator or is
this a waste of money? If one areates enough does it have any smoothing
effect? Lawn is 9/10th's of a acre. Looking at the Home Depot Brinly 40 inch
pull behind.
Thanks, Tracy

when you are pulling your pull behind aerator with
your zero turn toro and you do your first zero turn
on your toro while pulling your new Home Depot Brinly
40 inch aerator, please have someone take pictures of
that and post them on the web. I'm sure doing so will
top the current pine stick story.

thank you.

a star tooth style aerator is the one you can gain the
most benefit from. use it anytime you fell like playing
with it with one exception and that being after first
frost. most turf types do not benefit from having their
roots exposed to extremely cold air. while you are at
the Home Depot look for their large retaining wall block.
they weight 52 pounds each and make great dead weight in
the load tray for forcing the star teeth into the ground.
four of them should do the trick.


I beg to differ. The star really accomplishes nothing. Get a core
aerator and go 3" deep with it to get the most benefit. Also plan on
making at least 2 passes in different directions.
Instead of buying one of those box store cheapies, you might consider
renting a Ryan or Bluebird.
http://www.bluebirdintl.com/node1269... rames%3Dfalse

On Sep 17, 4:58 am, wrote:
Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:
Kansas lawn and zero turn toro. Should I buy a pull behind areator or is
this a waste of money? If one areates enough does it have any smoothing
effect? Lawn is 9/10th's of a acre. Looking at the Home Depot Brinly 40 inch
pull behind.
Thanks, Tracy

when you are pulling your pull behind aerator with
your zero turn toro and you do your first zero turn
on your toro while pulling your new Home Depot Brinly
40 inch aerator, please have someone take pictures of
that and post them on the web. I'm sure doing so will
top the current pine stick story.

thank you.

a star tooth style aerator is the one you can gain the
most benefit from. use it anytime you fell like playing
with it with one exception and that being after first
frost. most turf types do not benefit from having their
roots exposed to extremely cold air. while you are at
the Home Depot look for their large retaining wall block.
they weight 52 pounds each and make great dead weight in
the load tray for forcing the star teeth into the ground.
four of them should do the trick.

I beg to differ. The star really accomplishes nothing. Get a core
aerator and go 3" deep with it to get the most benefit. Also plan on
making at least 2 passes in different directions.
Instead of buying one of those box store cheapies, you might consider
renting a Ryan or Bluebird.http://www.bluebirdintl.com/node1269...asp%3Fcid%...- Hide quoted text -



I agree that a core aerator is the best. It actually removes plugs of
soil, thereby directly reducing compaction, making significant holes
through any thatch, etc. The tine type probably have some effect on
opening up the soil a bit, but since they only push apart what is
there, instead of remove some of it, they aren't nearly as effective.

Yes I know that turning sharply would get me in a bind, I posted that to see
if someone would say something like I would tear up the hydrostats on a zero
turn merely by pulling anything of weight. Whoever posted the link with the
better core types thanks but I can't afford that. Yes I agee with you but
just can't. So has anyone seen lawn improvement after areration? Thanks,
Tracy Spring Hill, KS

Tracy Viles wrote:

Yes I know that turning sharply would get me in a bind, I posted that to see
if someone would say something like I would tear up the hydrostats on a zero
turn merely by pulling anything of weight. Whoever posted the link with the
better core types thanks but I can't afford that. Yes I agee with you but
just can't. So has anyone seen lawn improvement after areration? Thanks,
Tracy Spring Hill, KS

well darn, I guess that means no pictures and we're stuck
with the stupid pine stick story for the time being.

as a general rule you can pull more with the belt drive
systems than you can with the hydrostatic.

yes, a good lawn improvement after incorporating the star
tooth with about 200 pounds of load weight can be obtained.
the main and most profitable while the greater economical
benefit is going to be oxygenation of the roots.

with most turf types when the roots are cut by the star
tooth new sprouts are produced creating a thicker lawn.

lawn aeration is always a good and beneficial practice
to incorporate into the maintenance program. be sure
and suspend the practice immediately after first frost.

as for aeration types, don't assume how the more
aggressive method is always the best. sometimes,
it's the gentle touch producing the most desirable
long term results.

Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:
Yes I know that turning sharply would get me in a bind, I posted that to see
if someone would say something like I would tear up the hydrostats on a zero
turn merely by pulling anything of weight. Whoever posted the link with the
better core types thanks but I can't afford that. Yes I agee with you but
just can't. So has anyone seen lawn improvement after areration? Thanks,
Tracy Spring Hill, KS

well darn, I guess that means no pictures and we're stuck
with the stupid pine stick story for the time being.

as a general rule you can pull more with the belt drive
systems than you can with the hydrostatic.

yes, a good lawn improvement after incorporating the star
tooth with about 200 pounds of load weight can be obtained.
the main and most profitable while the greater economical
benefit is going to be oxygenation of the roots.

with most turf types when the roots are cut by the star
tooth new sprouts are produced creating a thicker lawn.

lawn aeration is always a good and beneficial practice
to incorporate into the maintenance program. be sure
and suspend the practice immediately after first frost.

as for aeration types, don't assume how the more
aggressive method is always the best. sometimes,
it's the gentle touch producing the most desirable
long term results.


First, you can rent a core aerator for around $50.00 for 3 hours and you
really only need to do it once a year. If you get a neighbor or 2 to go
in on it with you, it'll, of course, cost you much less and you should
be able to actually profit.
Second, the star aerator does slice the roots and kind of encourages new
growth but it does nothing for the compaction of the soil, and actually
causes more lateral compaction, so the new roots have nowhere to go.

wrote:

Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:
[....]
has anyone seen lawn improvement after areration?
[....]

as for aeration types,
[....]

First, you can rent a core aerator for around $50.00 for 3 hours and you
really only need to do it once a year. If you get a neighbor or 2 to go
in on it with you, it'll, of course, cost you much less and you should
be able to actually profit.
Second, the star aerator does slice the roots and kind of encourages new
growth but it does nothing for the compaction of the soil, and actually
causes more lateral compaction, so the new roots have nowhere to go.

the OP had an open question and a hidden question. I have given a
direct response to the OP while you and the others in this thread
have not.

now I have several direct questions for you. how many different
turf types do you manage? how many different soil types do you
encounter? how many satisfied customers do you have currently
under contract within your lawn care business?

please further explain your conceptual meaning behind your
expression of "be able to actually profit" when sharing rental
expenses with your neighbors.

Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:

Yes I know that turning sharply would get me in a bind, I posted
that to see if someone would say something like I would tear up the
hydrostats on a zero turn merely by pulling anything of weight.
Whoever posted the link with the better core types thanks but I
can't afford that. Yes I agee with you but just can't. So has
anyone seen lawn improvement after areration? Thanks, Tracy Spring
Hill, KS

well darn, I guess that means no pictures and we're stuck
with the stupid pine stick story for the time being.

I'm with you we need another story, not from me..
(the new mower is great)

Clark




as a general rule you can pull more with the belt drive
systems than you can with the hydrostatic.

yes, a good lawn improvement after incorporating the star
tooth with about 200 pounds of load weight can be obtained.
the main and most profitable while the greater economical
benefit is going to be oxygenation of the roots.

with most turf types when the roots are cut by the star
tooth new sprouts are produced creating a thicker lawn.

lawn aeration is always a good and beneficial practice
to incorporate into the maintenance program. be sure
and suspend the practice immediately after first frost.

as for aeration types, don't assume how the more
aggressive method is always the best. sometimes,
it's the gentle touch producing the most desirable
long term results.

On Sep 17, 8:34 pm, Jim wrote:
wrote:
Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:
[....]
has anyone seen lawn improvement after areration?
[....]

as for aeration types,
[....]

First, you can rent a core aerator for around $50.00 for 3 hours and you
really only need to do it once a year. If you get a neighbor or 2 to go
in on it with you, it'll, of course, cost you much less and you should
be able to actually profit.
Second, the star aerator does slice the roots and kind of encourages new
growth but it does nothing for the compaction of the soil, and actually
causes more lateral compaction, so the new roots have nowhere to go.

the OP had an open question and a hidden question. I have given a
direct response to the OP while you and the others in this thread
have not.

now I have several direct questions for you. how many different
turf types do you manage? how many different soil types do you
encounter? how many satisfied customers do you have currently
under contract within your lawn care business?

please further explain your conceptual meaning behind your
expression of "be able to actually profit" when sharing rental
expenses with your neighbors.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wow, did you get up on the wrong side of the bed today or what?

Jim wrote:
wrote:

Jim wrote:
Tracy Viles wrote:
[....]
has anyone seen lawn improvement after areration?
[....]
as for aeration types,
[....]
First, you can rent a core aerator for around $50.00 for 3 hours and you
really only need to do it once a year. If you get a neighbor or 2 to go
in on it with you, it'll, of course, cost you much less and you should
be able to actually profit.
Second, the star aerator does slice the roots and kind of encourages new
growth but it does nothing for the compaction of the soil, and actually
causes more lateral compaction, so the new roots have nowhere to go.

the OP had an open question and a hidden question. I have given a
direct response to the OP while you and the others in this thread
have not.

now I have several direct questions for you. how many different
turf types do you manage? how many different soil types do you
encounter? how many satisfied customers do you have currently
under contract within your lawn care business?

please further explain your conceptual meaning behind your
expression of "be able to actually profit" when sharing rental
expenses with your neighbors.


Here's his query: "Kansas lawn and zero turn toro. Should I buy a pull
behind areator or is this a waste of money? If one areates enough does
it have any smoothing effect? Lawn is 9/10th's of a acre. Looking at the
Home Depot Brinly 40 inch pull behind.
Thanks, Tracy "

Answer to 1st question: No a pull behind is not a waste of time as long
as you get a good quality aerator.

Answer to 2nd question: Yes, it can have the effect of smoothing the
lawn with enough aerations. For that, and it depends on how rough your
lawn is, I recommend aerating once in the spring and once in the fall
for a couple of years. Then go to fall aeration only as this is the most
beneficial time for the turf.


Now as for your questions, since you seem to be questioning my
knowledge: "how many different turf types do you manage?"
My customers have predominantly fescue, perrenial rye, bluegrass mixes.
I have a couple who have Zoysia, and no they don't mind the fall
brownout since this is a warm season grass being used in a colder
environment. I deal with everything from very clay soil, which get
regular amendments with the core aeration, to properties with 12 to 14
inches of very good loamy, well drained soil.

Next: "how many satisfied customers do you have currently
under contract within your lawn care business?"
I currently have 65 active customers who claim to be very satisfied with
their lawns and who regularly comment about how their turf has improved
since we took over their lawncare.

Next: "please further explain your conceptual meaning behind your
expression of "be able to actually profit" when sharing rental
expenses with your neighbors."

I currently charge $14.00 per 1000 sq ft of turf for core aeration. If
he were to charge his neighbors by the sq footage and at a reduced rate
from what I charge, he could still make back the daily rental fee many
times over. That is with him doing the actual work, of course.

Thank you for your concern though.

Another point, the only time I know that slicing the lawn is beneficial,
is when slice seeding.
Maybe you deal with different types of turf than I do but I think the
principals are the same.

WooooooooWeeeeeee Thanks, I got everything answered and then some. Went to
Home Depot and they were out of stock on the Brinly 40 inch model. Will try
again on the 21st when the next shipment is suppose to be in. Will go with
the plug type as I do not have any creeping grasses. As far as smoothing
effect if the zero turn does not struggle to badly with it I should expect a
slight improvement there. Got 1½" of rain today, I'm ready!

Thanks again everyone.

Eggs Zachtly wrote:
said:

[...]

Another point, the only time I know that slicing the lawn is beneficial,
is when slice seeding.

"Creeping" grasses benefit, quite a lot actually, from vertical slicing.

[rest snipped]


I should add that I'm not familiar with Centipede or any of the warm
season grasses. I've heard that some grasses actually benefit by being
scalped to the ground in the spring too. I am in the upper midwest I
might add. Zone 5.
So, I guess that maybe the original poster, if he has the right turf,
may be on the right track after all.

said:

[...]

Another point, the only time I know that slicing the lawn is beneficial,
is when slice seeding.

"Creeping" grasses benefit, quite a lot actually, from vertical slicing.

[rest snipped]
--

Eggs

-A man who lives in a glass house should change in the basement.

wrote:

Jim wrote:
wrote:
[....]
[....]
First, you can rent a core aerator
If you get a neighbor or 2 to go
in on it with you, it'll, of course, cost you much
less and you should be able to actually profit.
[....]
please further explain your conceptual meaning behind your
expression of "be able to actually profit" when sharing rental
expenses with your neighbors.
[....]

I currently charge $14.00 per 1000 sq ft of turf for core aeration. If
he were to charge his neighbors by the sq footage and at a reduced rate
from what I charge, he could still make back the daily rental fee many
times over. That is with him doing the actual work, of course.

do you see the difference between
"neighbor or 2 to go in on it with you"
as compared with
"If he were to charge his neighbors".

are you from Indiana?