Ray,
What exactly does 'leggy' mean. I know I've heard the term used before, but
I don't know for sure what is meant by it? Is it the same as top-heavy? And
come to think of it, I am not entirely sure about top heavy either (aside
from that it tends to topple, but are all toppling plants top-heavy?) I have
this mental image of a 'leggy' plant that attempts to stand on long leg like
roots holding its wait on two very long roots, like legs. :-)
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
snip
If, on the other hand, the temperature is raised when there is no solar
flux
to speak of - gray, cloudy days - one will tend to end up with leggy,
"soft"
plants that might not be able to even stand up properly (in extreme
cases).

My advice is to set your heating for maintaining a decent minimum
temperature, and let it go at that. It's better for the plants and less
expensive, too!

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Keith,
I've been following this thread and I have an opinion, even though I
don't
have a greenhouse.
Since you already have your heater system set up for day and night
temperatures, I think you should aim for a comfortable 10 degree (f)
difference between day and night. If you want to keep the night
temperatures no lower than 59f, then set the day temp for 69f. Now, I
don't think it would be necessary, or even desirable to keep the
temperature that warm all day (unless it is up there due to sunshine). I
would set that timer to be on from 11 AM to 3 PM.
I would either do away with the timer for the 59 degree setting or, if
it
is easier, set it for the 20 hours of the day that remain.
Hopefully, you will have many days where greenhouse warms beyond 69
degrees before 11 AM and the higher temperature thermostat will not even
have to kick in.

Steve (wishing for zone 8 but more like 3)

kenty ;-) wrote:
I have a electric heater run through a thermostat controller & probe
which
is very accurate,I have two of this set-up one for day & one for
night,both
on timers so one set-up takes over from the other,it is automatically
done.I
just have to initially set the parameters I want,the night is set to
59f/15c
and day has been at 71f/22c,but today was really sunny in the after
noon
so
the temp got in the 80`s.After input I have received off you guys I am
going
to lower the day temp to 66f/19c?What do you think.I live in Robin Hood
country,that being Nottingham,England,UK.It can get quite cold
here(zone
8)but really not that bad!My greenhouse is only a measly 10x8,but we
all
have to start somewhere.

"J Fortuna" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:eLv8d.5247$1g5.727@trnddc07...
Ray,
What exactly does 'leggy' mean. I know I've heard the term used before, but
I don't know for sure what is meant by it? Is it the same as top-heavy? And
come to think of it, I am not entirely sure about top heavy either (aside
from that it tends to topple, but are all toppling plants top-heavy?) I have
this mental image of a 'leggy' plant that attempts to stand on long leg like
roots holding its wait on two very long roots, like legs. :-)

Main Entry: leg·gy
Pronunciation: 'le-gE also 'lA-
Function: adjective
Inflected Form(s): leg·gi·er; -est
1 : having disproportionately long legs
2 : having long and attractive legs
3 : SPINDLY -- used of a plant
- leg·gi·ness /-n&s/ noun

Main Entry: spin·dly
Pronunciation: 'spin(d)-lE, 'spin-d&l-E
Function: adjective
Inflected Form(s): spin·dli·er; -est
1 : of a disproportionately tall or long and thin appearance that often suggests physical weakness spindly legs
2 : frail or flimsy in appearance or structure

I think of leggy plants like kids growing up without the proper vitamins. They do grow, but their body substance is not as firm and
healthy as it should be. The plants have to stretch toward the light instead of using the nutrients to grow compact cells.
--
Reka

This is LIFE! It's not a rehearsal. Don't miss it!
http://www.rolbox.it/hukari/index.html



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.772 / Virus Database: 519 - Release Date: 01.10.04

For intermediates, a 95F daytime high is probably a bit much. We only
handle warm-growers. Kenni

"kenty ;-)" wrote in message
news:1096916367.xNZxdv1ek7mhKpcVSch/5A@teranews...
Thanks for the advise,i grow intermediate,what are your conditions for the
advise given?

--
Thanks Keith,England,UK.
"Susan Erickson" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 14:31:42 -0400, "Kenni Judd"
wrote:

All we try to do is knock off the extremes -- misters to keep the temp
below
95F in summer, heat to 55F in winter. In between these extremes,
whatever
the temp happens to be is what it is.

We raise it to 65 during the day and let solar gain take it from
there. Here in Co it is not unusual to have the roof vent raise
in Feb. because it has gotten to 80 in the afternoon. OF course
the next day it may be gray and not climb over 70. So I let the
excess heat out and hope enough stays to temper the heating bill.

SuE
http://orchids.legolas.org/gallery/albums.php

"Leggy" growths are taller than the norm for the same plant grown properly,
and usually also "soft" or "weak," and thinner than they should be. If they
bloom in this condition, they will be top-heavy, but not all top-heavy
plants are unhealthy, soft or leggy [heck, almost all our dens are
top-heavy!].

We don't have much issue with insufficient light for the temps around here,
but over-feeding will do the same thing -- instead of standing up straight,
the soft leggy growths want to lean over sideways. The bright side is that
usually they are soft enough to stand up and stake, but that's still extra
work [ring stakes won't do, since the soft growths will just bend over it --
you actually have to stake each individual growth] and not really the best
thing for the plant.

Good growing, Kenni
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:eLv8d.5247$1g5.727@trnddc07...
Ray,
What exactly does 'leggy' mean. I know I've heard the term used before,
but
I don't know for sure what is meant by it? Is it the same as top-heavy?
And
come to think of it, I am not entirely sure about top heavy either (aside
from that it tends to topple, but are all toppling plants top-heavy?) I
have
this mental image of a 'leggy' plant that attempts to stand on long leg
like
roots holding its wait on two very long roots, like legs. :-)
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
snip
If, on the other hand, the temperature is raised when there is no solar
flux
to speak of - gray, cloudy days - one will tend to end up with leggy,
"soft"
plants that might not be able to even stand up properly (in extreme
cases).

My advice is to set your heating for maintaining a decent minimum
temperature, and let it go at that. It's better for the plants and less
expensive, too!

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Keith,
I've been following this thread and I have an opinion, even though I
don't
have a greenhouse.
Since you already have your heater system set up for day and night
temperatures, I think you should aim for a comfortable 10 degree (f)
difference between day and night. If you want to keep the night
temperatures no lower than 59f, then set the day temp for 69f. Now, I
don't think it would be necessary, or even desirable to keep the
temperature that warm all day (unless it is up there due to sunshine).
I
would set that timer to be on from 11 AM to 3 PM.
I would either do away with the timer for the 59 degree setting or, if
it
is easier, set it for the 20 hours of the day that remain.
Hopefully, you will have many days where greenhouse warms beyond 69
degrees before 11 AM and the higher temperature thermostat will not
even
have to kick in.

Steve (wishing for zone 8 but more like 3)

kenty ;-) wrote:
I have a electric heater run through a thermostat controller & probe
which
is very accurate,I have two of this set-up one for day & one for
night,both
on timers so one set-up takes over from the other,it is automatically
done.I
just have to initially set the parameters I want,the night is set to
59f/15c
and day has been at 71f/22c,but today was really sunny in the after
noon
so
the temp got in the 80`s.After input I have received off you guys I
am
going
to lower the day temp to 66f/19c?What do you think.I live in Robin
Hood
country,that being Nottingham,England,UK.It can get quite cold
here(zone
8)but really not that bad!My greenhouse is only a measly 10x8,but we
all
have to start somewhere.

Looks like Reka and Kenni beat me to the response...

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
..
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:eLv8d.5247$1g5.727@trnddc07...
Ray,
What exactly does 'leggy' mean. I know I've heard the term used before,
but
I don't know for sure what is meant by it? Is it the same as top-heavy?
And
come to think of it, I am not entirely sure about top heavy either (aside
from that it tends to topple, but are all toppling plants top-heavy?) I
have
this mental image of a 'leggy' plant that attempts to stand on long leg
like
roots holding its wait on two very long roots, like legs. :-)
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
snip
If, on the other hand, the temperature is raised when there is no solar
flux
to speak of - gray, cloudy days - one will tend to end up with leggy,
"soft"
plants that might not be able to even stand up properly (in extreme
cases).

My advice is to set your heating for maintaining a decent minimum
temperature, and let it go at that. It's better for the plants and less
expensive, too!

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Keith,
I've been following this thread and I have an opinion, even though I
don't
have a greenhouse.
Since you already have your heater system set up for day and night
temperatures, I think you should aim for a comfortable 10 degree (f)
difference between day and night. If you want to keep the night
temperatures no lower than 59f, then set the day temp for 69f. Now, I
don't think it would be necessary, or even desirable to keep the
temperature that warm all day (unless it is up there due to sunshine).
I
would set that timer to be on from 11 AM to 3 PM.
I would either do away with the timer for the 59 degree setting or, if
it
is easier, set it for the 20 hours of the day that remain.
Hopefully, you will have many days where greenhouse warms beyond 69
degrees before 11 AM and the higher temperature thermostat will not
even
have to kick in.

Steve (wishing for zone 8 but more like 3)

kenty ;-) wrote:
I have a electric heater run through a thermostat controller & probe
which
is very accurate,I have two of this set-up one for day & one for
night,both
on timers so one set-up takes over from the other,it is automatically
done.I
just have to initially set the parameters I want,the night is set to
59f/15c
and day has been at 71f/22c,but today was really sunny in the after
noon
so
the temp got in the 80`s.After input I have received off you guys I am
going
to lower the day temp to 66f/19c?What do you think.I live in Robin
Hood
country,that being Nottingham,England,UK.It can get quite cold
here(zone
8)but really not that bad!My greenhouse is only a measly 10x8,but we
all
have to start somewhere.

Thank you Reka and Kenni!
Joanna

"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
"Leggy" growths are taller than the norm for the same plant grown
properly,
and usually also "soft" or "weak," and thinner than they should be. If
they
bloom in this condition, they will be top-heavy, but not all top-heavy
plants are unhealthy, soft or leggy [heck, almost all our dens are
top-heavy!].

We don't have much issue with insufficient light for the temps around
here,
but over-feeding will do the same thing -- instead of standing up
straight,
the soft leggy growths want to lean over sideways. The bright side is
that
usually they are soft enough to stand up and stake, but that's still extra
work [ring stakes won't do, since the soft growths will just bend over
it --
you actually have to stake each individual growth] and not really the best
thing for the plant.

Good growing, Kenni
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
news:eLv8d.5247$1g5.727@trnddc07...
Ray,
What exactly does 'leggy' mean. I know I've heard the term used before,
but
I don't know for sure what is meant by it? Is it the same as top-heavy?
And
come to think of it, I am not entirely sure about top heavy either
(aside
from that it tends to topple, but are all toppling plants top-heavy?) I
have
this mental image of a 'leggy' plant that attempts to stand on long leg
like
roots holding its wait on two very long roots, like legs. :-)
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
snip
If, on the other hand, the temperature is raised when there is no
solar
flux
to speak of - gray, cloudy days - one will tend to end up with leggy,
"soft"
plants that might not be able to even stand up properly (in extreme
cases).

My advice is to set your heating for maintaining a decent minimum
temperature, and let it go at that. It's better for the plants and
less
expensive, too!

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!
.
"Steve" wrote in message
...
Keith,
I've been following this thread and I have an opinion, even though I
don't
have a greenhouse.
Since you already have your heater system set up for day and night
temperatures, I think you should aim for a comfortable 10 degree (f)
difference between day and night. If you want to keep the night
temperatures no lower than 59f, then set the day temp for 69f. Now,
I
don't think it would be necessary, or even desirable to keep the
temperature that warm all day (unless it is up there due to
sunshine).
I
would set that timer to be on from 11 AM to 3 PM.
I would either do away with the timer for the 59 degree setting or,
if
it
is easier, set it for the 20 hours of the day that remain.
Hopefully, you will have many days where greenhouse warms beyond 69
degrees before 11 AM and the higher temperature thermostat will not
even
have to kick in.

Steve (wishing for zone 8 but more like 3)

kenty ;-) wrote:
I have a electric heater run through a thermostat controller &
probe
which
is very accurate,I have two of this set-up one for day & one for
night,both
on timers so one set-up takes over from the other,it is
automatically
done.I
just have to initially set the parameters I want,the night is set
to
59f/15c
and day has been at 71f/22c,but today was really sunny in the after
noon
so
the temp got in the 80`s.After input I have received off you guys I
am
going
to lower the day temp to 66f/19c?What do you think.I live in Robin
Hood
country,that being Nottingham,England,UK.It can get quite cold
here(zone
8)but really not that bad!My greenhouse is only a measly 10x8,but
we
all
have to start somewhere.

One more question, which may just result from my own inexperience with
anything other than warm growers -- but if this is for an intermediate group
of plants, why is your night min. temp so high? We heat to 55F because we
have only one house, so everyone has to be as warm as the most heat-loving
of our vandas and dens, not too mention the seedling-babies, but I know that
our mature Catts and Oncids would not only tolerate, but welcome,
considerably lower temps.

If and when we raise the $$ to build it, our next house will be for those
latter, and will be heated to no more than 40F, maybe lower.
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com

"kenty ;-)" wrote in message
news:1096803384.9kaoQ80nf6crr+oLz+bazg@teranews...
Hi Everyone,With autumn/winter upon us,my first growing in the greenhouse
I
have a question about how you control temp with the day or just a set
amount
of temp(8 hours a day, for example) regardless of daylong.
--
Thanks Keith,England,UK.

Although catts and oncids will tolerate the low 40's, prolonger low temperatures
below 55 will send catasetums into dormancy. So it depends on what orchids one
is growing. I have a 57 degree F min temperature for my greenhouse, and
although one year I lost power and temperatures got down to 34 degrees while I
was out of the country -- and not much was lost -- I would not recommend this.

.. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System http://www.pe.net/~profpam/page3.html

Kenni Judd wrote:

One more question, which may just result from my own inexperience with
anything other than warm growers -- but if this is for an intermediate group
of plants, why is your night min. temp so high? We heat to 55F because we
have only one house, so everyone has to be as warm as the most heat-loving
of our vandas and dens, not too mention the seedling-babies, but I know that
our mature Catts and Oncids would not only tolerate, but welcome,
considerably lower temps.

If and when we raise the $$ to build it, our next house will be for those
latter, and will be heated to no more than 40F, maybe lower.
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com

"kenty ;-)" wrote in message
news:1096803384.9kaoQ80nf6crr+oLz+bazg@teranews...
Hi Everyone,With autumn/winter upon us,my first growing in the greenhouse
I
have a question about how you control temp with the day or just a set
amount
of temp(8 hours a day, for example) regardless of daylong.
--
Thanks Keith,England,UK.

I was following this thread with interest, but am wondering what the
tempatures should be if one, like me, is using HPS lights to extend
the days into 12 hour days and as supplemental lighting during the
winter months?.

On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 12:45:27 +0100, "kenty ;-\)"
wrote:

Hi Everyone,With autumn/winter upon us,my first growing in the greenhouse I
have a question about how you control temp with the day or just a set amount
of temp(8 hours a day, for example) regardless of daylong.