The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the garden, she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?

BV.

Benign Vanilla wrote:
The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the garden, she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?

BV.



at least 3' deep for a water line or
have a "hydrant" type pipe at other
end so it can be drained in winter.







--
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Shipping to legal states/countries only!
Permalon liners, Oase & Supreme Pondmaster pumps


Linux (SuSE 8.2) user #329121
Please Note: No trees or animals were harmed in the
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inconvenienced

"KenCo" wrote in message
...
Benign Vanilla wrote:
The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out
to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the garden,
she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?

BV.



at least 3' deep for a water line or
have a "hydrant" type pipe at other
end so it can be drained in winter.

My plan to is have an inside valve that can shut it down for the winter, and
then I plan to open all of the outside valves to allow for expansion.

BV.

Benign Vanilla wrote:

at least 3' deep for a water line or
have a "hydrant" type pipe at other
end so it can be drained in winter.


My plan to is have an inside valve that can shut it down for the winter, and
then I plan to open all of the outside valves to allow for expansion.

BV.

you don't just have to open the outside valve to allow for expansion,
you also have to be able to drain the line. TOTALLY.

make sure the valve has an auxilary drain valve. or add a cheap hose
connection valve between the outside and the inside valves.
Also maintain a consistant pitch back down into the basement.



--If grits ain't groceries,
Then Mona Lisa was a man....

-- ya'll put sum bacon drippin's in those grits....ya hear me??

"chagoi" wrote in message
...
Benign Vanilla wrote:

at least 3' deep for a water line or
have a "hydrant" type pipe at other
end so it can be drained in winter.


My plan to is have an inside valve that can shut it down for the winter,
and
then I plan to open all of the outside valves to allow for expansion.

BV.

you don't just have to open the outside valve to allow for expansion,
you also have to be able to drain the line. TOTALLY.

make sure the valve has an auxilary drain valve. or add a cheap hose
connection valve between the outside and the inside valves.
Also maintain a consistant pitch back down into the basement.

There is no way I'll be able to pitch back to the basement. In the backyard
it's a walkout, and for the distance I am going, the end of the pipe would
end up under the house. LOL.

BV.

Just blow it out with an air compressor. Much safer.

Joe

On 5/26/04 9:02 AM, "Benign Vanilla" wrote:

My plan to is have an inside valve that can shut it down for the winter, and
then I plan to open all of the outside valves to allow for expansion.



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You could wrap the pipe with heat tape from below the frost line up since
you said you'd have electric out there too. They do this on most mobile
homes and it works well. If you are neat and keep things covered with some
sort of enclosure it should work well. Blowing the water out with an air
compressor before winter sets in is also an option. But in my opinion
would be a PITA.

Oh and whatever you do, use properly installed GFI circuits!!!!


--
Pond Diver


"Benign Vanilla" wrote in message
...

"KenCo" wrote in message
...
Benign Vanilla wrote:
The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out
to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the
garden,
she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?

BV.



at least 3' deep for a water line or
have a "hydrant" type pipe at other
end so it can be drained in winter.

My plan to is have an inside valve that can shut it down for the winter,
and
then I plan to open all of the outside valves to allow for expansion.

BV.

Benign Vanilla wrote:

ent.


There is no way I'll be able to pitch back to the basement. In the backyard
it's a walkout, and for the distance I am going, the end of the pipe would
end up under the house. LOL.

BV.

How far do you have to run it.

you don't need a lot of pitch just try to not have low spots for the
water to pool, esp. if you need to stay ABOVE the frost line.

My city water line comes into the house 5 feet below ground level.
My line to the pond goes out of the house @4' runs 80 feet to 3.5' below
the ground at the pond. At a pitch of 6-8" per 100'.
More than enough to drain properly.

Blowing it out with a compressor is a ROYAL PITA

Chagoi


-- I refuse to tip-toe through life, only to arrive safely at death's door

"Benign Vanilla" wrote in message
...
The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the garden,
she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?


Probably stating the obvious but, check for buried pipes before starting. My
garden is a spiders web of wires and pipes under the surface so I can only
dig carefully by hand.

Not that bad, you just put a fitting on one end that accepts the compressor
hose and turn it on.

Joe

On 5/26/04 9:46 AM, "chagoi" wrote:

Blowing it out with a compressor is a ROYAL PITA



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On Wed, 26 May 2004 12:46:23 -0400, chagoi
wrote:

Benign Vanilla wrote:

snipped the rest of discussion

Blowing it out with a compressor is a ROYAL PITA

Chagoi

I blow my lines out with a compressor every year and it is a simple
process. I have about 400 feet of irrigation lines, 1" PVC that run
from my house to my garden, also around the house.

My process is to open the faucet at the end of the line and connect
the compressor to the faucet at the other end of the line. I simply
duct tape it to the faucet to get a bit of a seal. Then let her rip
until no more water comes out. Let it set for a while to let the
water collect in low spots and blow it out again.

I have been doing it like this for six years. My water line runs an
average of 6 inches deep and our frost gets down several feet. No
problems so far.

John

I just did this! The trencher is a real back saver. I did not put mine below
the frost line. I will just blow it out with an air compressor in the
winter. I used it to add an automatic water top off system to my skimmer. I
had to add a pressure regulator to my line because the 90 psi line pressure
was blowing the fittings off of my top off system. I regulated it down to 25
psi. You can find them in the water heater or irrigation (drip pressure
regulator) areas of Home Depot/Lowes type stores. I trenched mine only 8
inches underground, but as I said, I will blow it out in the fall with an
air compressor. I used 3/4" schedule 40 pipe.

For the electric, there are codes on the depth of the wire - if contained in
conduit you can bury it 6" underground. If using just UF(underground cable)
I think it must be at least 24" deep and you should cover with a redwood
board as well. Check for your area. Also, conduit and a junction box must be
used to transition from inside to underground. Someone recommended getting a
roll of yellow tape that says something "underground wiring buried here" a
put it above your wiring in the ground. Make sure to use the correct
exterior junction boxes and gang outlet boxes. The new ones have a large
plastic cover that flips over the front. I have a four gang at my skimmer
for the pump and UV lights. Leave enough for low voltage lights and other
expansions as well. Note: underwater lights from Malibu must be wired
directly to the power pack.

Good luck.

TG
"Benign Vanilla" wrote in message
...
The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the garden,
she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?

BV.

TG
"Benign Vanilla" wrote in message
...
The SO approved me renting a trencher so I can run power and water out to
the pond. When I mentioned I could T off and put a spigot in the garden,
she
instantly approved the rental.

Before I do this...Any thoughts? gotchas? wish-I-had-done-this's?

BV.



I hit a pipe. Unrecorded near as I can tell. Part of the sprinkler
system in the yard. THe fracture in the pipe was small, but the water
was well over 40' high in my back yard. I did not have a proper key to
turn off the mains, so it took over an hour, and soaked my yard beyond
belief...

The trencher is a cool piece of equipment. The only issue I had was
getting all the loose dirt back in the hole.. Never quite got it
right... (Divots and bumps)

Carl

--
--
http://www.cobaltbluefilms.com

Instead of wrapping it with just heat tape, they have a foam pvc pipe wrap,
that's cheap and easy to apply. They recommend that for anything above
ground in NC with mobile/manufactured homes, so I'd think it's be perfect
for your, since it's at least a little underground.

You can easily find it at lowe's or home depot, and it comes in like 6'
lengths for $5 or less.


--
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Homepage:
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Benign Vanilla wrote:
at least 3' deep for a water line or
have a "hydrant" type pipe at other
end so it can be drained in winter.


My plan to is have an inside valve that can shut it down for the winter, and
then I plan to open all of the outside valves to allow for expansion.

BV.



expansion?? they will be frozen cracked pipe/s

you have to have a hydrant type pipe way
at far end, thats what drains the pipe.




--
--
http://www.kencofish.com Ken Arnold,
401-831-5739 cell 401-225-0556
Importer/Exporter of Goldfish,Koi,rare Predators
Shipping to legal states/countries only!
Permalon liners, Oase & Supreme Pondmaster pumps


Linux (SuSE 8.2) user #329121
Please Note: No trees or animals were harmed in the
sending of this contaminant free message We do concede
that a signicant number of electrons may have been
inconvenienced