"Rick" wrote in message
nk.net...
I'm using a bubbler and a stock tank heater as a back up if it looks like
the bubbler can't handle the job. Remember you are only trying to keep the
pond from freezing over completely.

Actually, it doesn't even need to keep a hole open in the ice.
The main purpose of the bubbler is to make sure that gases
from rotting vegetation and other wastes do not become
trapped and build up some concentration level of those gases.

If bubbles are being added to the water and they are escaping
somewhere (like around the edges), then they will take the gases
with them.

If the gases are not escaping, the the pond will build up pressure
until it explodes. Stand back! :-) (not really)

Unless your fish need slightly warmer water (and it will only be
slightly), the heater is totally unnecessary and a waste of energy.

I live in northern Colorado. On my little pond the bubbles create
interesting volcano type mounds. When it gets really cold, those
close up and the gases escape around the edges somewhere.

Jerry

MC wrote:

-25C is about -13F. You must get great sun and be protected from the
wind. I've seen 4 foot high waterfalls freeze in temps that cold. How
does a small air bubbler keep the water from freezing?

In S. Ontario, with temperatures down to -25C, I could keep a hole open
with a 15W aquarium air pump and one of the long (6") air stones,
suspended 6-12" below the waterline.

I don't have a clue :-) I do know that they use bubblers in the Great Lakes
to keep marina berths ice free, and for some of the ferries on Lake
Ontario.

I did have great sun, but I wasn't protected from the wind. In stormy
weather you'd sometimes get enough slush to block the hole faster than the
bubbler could clear it, so it requires a little manual assistance, but it's
storms (generally at close to freezing temps) not extreme cold that are the
bigger problem with the bubbler.
--
derek

MC wrote:

-25C is about -13F. You must get great sun and be protected from the
wind. I've seen 4 foot high waterfalls freeze in temps that cold. How
does a small air bubbler keep the water from freezing?

In S. Ontario, with temperatures down to -25C, I could keep a hole open
with a 15W aquarium air pump and one of the long (6") air stones,
suspended 6-12" below the waterline.

I don't have a clue :-) I do know that they use bubblers in the Great Lakes
to keep marina berths ice free, and for some of the ferries on Lake
Ontario.

I did have great sun, but I wasn't protected from the wind. In stormy
weather you'd sometimes get enough slush to block the hole faster than the
bubbler could clear it, so it requires a little manual assistance, but it's
storms (generally at close to freezing temps) not extreme cold that are the
bigger problem with the bubbler.
--
derek

Gareee© wrote:

"Derek Broughton" wrote in message
...

In S. Ontario, with temperatures down to -25C, I could keep a hole open
with
a 15W aquarium air pump and one of the long (6") air stones, suspended
6-12" below the waterline.

Will a fountain run winter long, and also help add oxygen as well?

We have a 2 ft tall gargoyle fountain that might help prevent ice
formation, and increase oxy flow...

I shouldn't think so. A fountain just provides a bigger air-contact
surface, and encourages quicker freezing. A bubbler will create a very
small hole - mine was always in the 2-6" range.
--
derek

about 80 times
http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/wsFALL200...of_matter.html
Ingrid

Remember, it takes 40 times the
energy to change ice to water as it does to raise the temperature of water
1 degree.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

Hi Rich:

What is the coldest you get and for how long? We are considering covering
the pond this year. Partly to keep it warmer but mostly to keep six months
of dust, dirt etc out. Should make spring cleaning easier even if it's not
so pretty in the winter.

Heather


"RichToyBox" wrote in message
news:2yH6d.47864$He1.25742@attbi_s01...
Having the cover suspended, but fully enclosing the pond area, creates a
dead air space above the pond. Still air is a good insulator. The solar
blanket is a good solar collector and does not have to be in contact with
the water to work. I use the solar blanket with two layers of poly
sheeting
stretched over a lean-to of 2X4's and with heaters in the skimmer, I
maintain a temperature of 70 degrees most of the winter with a temperature
of about 62 as the low. Fish are fed every day, at least once. Filters
are
functional year round.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"MC" wrote in message
om...
I thought the cover floating on the surface would help reatin heat at
night and add a lot of heat during the day as the pond gets almost
full sun. My concern is that if there is a big snow, it could take my
cover down to the bottom of the pond.

wrote in message
...
Yes. put something around the heater to keep it from touching the pond
liner. or,
suspend it from something over the pond.
I wouldnt recommend leaving the bubble wrap floating on the water.
find
some way of
suspending it 4-5 inches over the top. and strong enough to hold snow.
you need an air pump and airstones to put oxygen into the water.
If you seal the bubble wrap up and over teh pond, then do use a bucket
filter with a
pump to keep moving the water and cleaning up the water during the
winter.
in your small pond the temp could stay well above 55oF most of the
winter. my 1600
gallon did all but one month. and I fed them a little bit every few
days
all winter
too. Ingrid

(MC) wrote:
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

wrote:

about 80 times
http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/wsFALL200...of_matter.html
Ingrid

Remember, it takes 40 times the
energy to change ice to water as it does to raise the temperature of water
1 degree.

drat. It's been way too long since high school.
--
derek

"MC" wrote in message
om...
I had a pond deicer last year. It didn't work in Chicago. I wound up
having to bring the fish in at the last minute. Also, I believe
Chicago is too cold for a pond of my depth without a heater. A decicer
does nothing to the water temperature at the bottom of the pond where
the fish are. Koi do not hibernate. Ultra cold water is not good for
them.


That is why ponds should be dug to at least six inches below the frost line - to
insure that they don't freeze completely solid. As for ultra cold water, I
don't know what you mean by this, as water freezes at 32 F. My pond, with a
de-icer, only had about 1/16th of an inch of ice on if for about two days last
year, and that was only at one end of the pond. The water below the surface
never got below 39 degrees, and my Koi, goldfish, and channel catfish all did
just fine. I didn't lose any fish at all. My pond is 45" deep (18" above
ground, 27" below), while the frost line here in Louisville is at 22". Koi will
stop eating below a certain temperature (some say below 50-54 degrees F). Mine
stopped eating below 50 F. So while they may not hibernate in the sense that a
bear will hibernate, they do become lethargic, and greatly reduce their
activity. This is normal behavior for temperate fish in winter.


"George" wrote in message
...
"MC" wrote in message
om...
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi

You'd have to have one hell of an aquarium heater to do the job you are
asking
of it. On the other hand, there are products out there that do the job more
efficiently. I use a pond de-icer. It only raises the temperature at the
surface to a level that will keep most of the pond ice-free, so it isn't on
all
the time, and saves on the electrical bill. Check out this web page for more
information on pond de-icers:

http://www.pondsolutions.com/pond-heaters.htm

The one I have is the green one.

Good luck.

"MC" wrote in message
om...
I had a pond deicer last year. It didn't work in Chicago. I wound up
having to bring the fish in at the last minute. Also, I believe
Chicago is too cold for a pond of my depth without a heater. A decicer
does nothing to the water temperature at the bottom of the pond where
the fish are. Koi do not hibernate. Ultra cold water is not good for
them.


That is why ponds should be dug to at least six inches below the frost line - to
insure that they don't freeze completely solid. As for ultra cold water, I
don't know what you mean by this, as water freezes at 32 F. My pond, with a
de-icer, only had about 1/16th of an inch of ice on if for about two days last
year, and that was only at one end of the pond. The water below the surface
never got below 39 degrees, and my Koi, goldfish, and channel catfish all did
just fine. I didn't lose any fish at all. My pond is 45" deep (18" above
ground, 27" below), while the frost line here in Louisville is at 22". Koi will
stop eating below a certain temperature (some say below 50-54 degrees F). Mine
stopped eating below 50 F. So while they may not hibernate in the sense that a
bear will hibernate, they do become lethargic, and greatly reduce their
activity. This is normal behavior for temperate fish in winter.


"George" wrote in message
...
"MC" wrote in message
om...
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi

You'd have to have one hell of an aquarium heater to do the job you are
asking
of it. On the other hand, there are products out there that do the job more
efficiently. I use a pond de-icer. It only raises the temperature at the
surface to a level that will keep most of the pond ice-free, so it isn't on
all
the time, and saves on the electrical bill. Check out this web page for more
information on pond de-icers:

http://www.pondsolutions.com/pond-heaters.htm

The one I have is the green one.

Good luck.

"MC" wrote in message
om...
Again, if the combination of your climate and depth of your pond
allows, a deicer is great, but I don't think it fits all situations.
Contrary to what many people think, Koi don't hibernate.

Below 50-54 F they will stop, or greatly reduce their feeding (most of the
microbes that aid in digestion go dormant under winter conditions, so unless the
food is easy to digest, they won't get much benefit from it anyway) and greatly
reduce their activity. Whether that is called hibernation or not, it is a
normal reaction of temperate fish to winter conditions. Mine did just that, and
they managed last winter just fine. If the water temperature was above 50 F, I
threw in a little food. If not, I left them alone. Fish can go for weeks
without eating in winter because of their reduced metabolism. They are, after
all, cold blooded. As for the de-icer, I agree that they don't work in all
conditions. But they certainly will not work efficiently in most any cold
region if the depth of the pond is above the recommended depth for a given
region (usually six inches or more below the frost line). That is a
design/construction issue. If this is the case with your pond, then you may
have to spend more money on alternative heating systems, which can be expensive
both to purchase, and to operate. Either that, or be prepared to remove your
fish from the pond and bring them inside for the winter (not a good choice, but
maybe the only one in some cases).

"George" wrote in message
...
"Janet" wrote in message
...


--

"MC" wrote in message
om...
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi

I'll agree with George here. We have a pool and last winter we left the
solar
blanket underneath the black winter tarp. It's didn't lessen the ice at
all.
The solar blanket just froze intot he ice. I'm in zone 6b and I use a stock
tank de-icer in the pond. I don't think the aquarium heater is going to do
it...
Janet in Niagara Falls

The de-icer worked great for me.

"Janet" wrote in message
...
You're 100 % correct MC, koi are not goldfish and vice versa. Koi absolutely
do not do well in water under about 40 degrees. They may make it but it can be
a real struggle in the spring as in their weakened state they are very
suseptable to parasites and bacterial infections...
Janet in cloudy Niagara Falls


http://www.aquariumpharm.com/article...-wintering.asp
The metabolism of koi and goldfish is controlled primarily by water temperature.
As the water cools, pond fish require less protein in their diet. When koi and
goldfish are fed high-protein food in cool water, the excess protein is excreted
as ammonia from the gills. The microscopic organisms that make up the biological
filter (and consume ammonia) also slow down in cooler water. Improper seasonal
feeding can lead to a build-up of toxic ammonia, which stresses fish and reduces
their winter survivability. When the water temperature drops to approximately
65° F, start feeding with Spring & Autumn Pond Food. This type of fish food is
better suited for the dietary requirements of pond fish in cool water and won't
pollute the water with excess ammonia. Some water gardeners continue to feed
their fish until they no longer come to the surface. I stop feeding my pond fish
when the water falls below 42° F.

There is no need to worry about "frozen fish" if a section of the pond is at
least 18 inches deep. Pond fish will seek the deepest part of the pond and
over-winter there until the water warms in the spring. If your pond is less than
18 inches deep, the fish may freeze during a harsh winter. Check with your local
pond supplier if you live in an area with harsh winters. Water gardeners with
shallow ponds can keep their koi and goldfish in kiddie pools or aquariums set
up in a cool basement or garage. All that is required is an aquarium air pump or
small fountain to provide oxygenation. The fish are fed infrequently, if at all,
depending on the water temperature. pH, ammonia and nitrite should be monitored
weekly, especially if the fish are fed. Small water changes (20%) each month
will keep the water in good shape until spring. Koi are "jumpers"-so be sure to
cover the pool with bird netting!

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWe...dmaintwint.htm

Fishes: Koi, goldfish, natives and other cold-water fishes may over-winter in
your system; providing that some of the surface

area does not freeze over completely. If your fishes are fat and healthy in the
fall, their metabolisms will be depressed enough accordingly to prevent
mortality. The rule with dealing with livestock especially during the winter is
the less disturbed the better. Instances of high mortalities are almost always
attributable to poor design, overcrowding or inadequate cleaning before the cold
season; or handling them after.

Livestock should not be fed below a temperature of 50 degrees F.; The fish may
seem interested and eat, but be unableto use the food and consequently the water
will be fouled. Partial water changes should be of small volume, if any,
infrequent and literally dripped refilled. Prior to cold water hibernation your
fish(es) should have been well fed, checked for disease and disinfected if
necessary.

Here is a link to some folks who overwinter their koi in Ontario:

http://backyardpuddle.aaquaria.com/season.html


"MC" wrote in message
om...
Again, if the combination of your climate and depth of your pond
allows, a deicer is great, but I don't think it fits all situations.
Contrary to what many people think, Koi don't hibernate.

"George" wrote in message
...
"Janet" wrote in message
...


--

"MC" wrote in message
om...
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi

I'll agree with George here. We have a pool and last winter we left the
solar
blanket underneath the black winter tarp. It's didn't lessen the ice at
all.
The solar blanket just froze intot he ice. I'm in zone 6b and I use a
stock
tank de-icer in the pond. I don't think the aquarium heater is going to do
it...
Janet in Niagara Falls

The de-icer worked great for me.

"Janet" wrote in message
...
You're 100 % correct MC, koi are not goldfish and vice versa. Koi absolutely
do not do well in water under about 40 degrees. They may make it but it can be
a real struggle in the spring as in their weakened state they are very
suseptable to parasites and bacterial infections...
Janet in cloudy Niagara Falls


http://www.aquariumpharm.com/article...-wintering.asp
The metabolism of koi and goldfish is controlled primarily by water temperature.
As the water cools, pond fish require less protein in their diet. When koi and
goldfish are fed high-protein food in cool water, the excess protein is excreted
as ammonia from the gills. The microscopic organisms that make up the biological
filter (and consume ammonia) also slow down in cooler water. Improper seasonal
feeding can lead to a build-up of toxic ammonia, which stresses fish and reduces
their winter survivability. When the water temperature drops to approximately
65° F, start feeding with Spring & Autumn Pond Food. This type of fish food is
better suited for the dietary requirements of pond fish in cool water and won't
pollute the water with excess ammonia. Some water gardeners continue to feed
their fish until they no longer come to the surface. I stop feeding my pond fish
when the water falls below 42° F.

There is no need to worry about "frozen fish" if a section of the pond is at
least 18 inches deep. Pond fish will seek the deepest part of the pond and
over-winter there until the water warms in the spring. If your pond is less than
18 inches deep, the fish may freeze during a harsh winter. Check with your local
pond supplier if you live in an area with harsh winters. Water gardeners with
shallow ponds can keep their koi and goldfish in kiddie pools or aquariums set
up in a cool basement or garage. All that is required is an aquarium air pump or
small fountain to provide oxygenation. The fish are fed infrequently, if at all,
depending on the water temperature. pH, ammonia and nitrite should be monitored
weekly, especially if the fish are fed. Small water changes (20%) each month
will keep the water in good shape until spring. Koi are "jumpers"-so be sure to
cover the pool with bird netting!

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWe...dmaintwint.htm

Fishes: Koi, goldfish, natives and other cold-water fishes may over-winter in
your system; providing that some of the surface

area does not freeze over completely. If your fishes are fat and healthy in the
fall, their metabolisms will be depressed enough accordingly to prevent
mortality. The rule with dealing with livestock especially during the winter is
the less disturbed the better. Instances of high mortalities are almost always
attributable to poor design, overcrowding or inadequate cleaning before the cold
season; or handling them after.

Livestock should not be fed below a temperature of 50 degrees F.; The fish may
seem interested and eat, but be unableto use the food and consequently the water
will be fouled. Partial water changes should be of small volume, if any,
infrequent and literally dripped refilled. Prior to cold water hibernation your
fish(es) should have been well fed, checked for disease and disinfected if
necessary.

Here is a link to some folks who overwinter their koi in Ontario:

http://backyardpuddle.aaquaria.com/season.html


"MC" wrote in message
om...
Again, if the combination of your climate and depth of your pond
allows, a deicer is great, but I don't think it fits all situations.
Contrary to what many people think, Koi don't hibernate.

"George" wrote in message
...
"Janet" wrote in message
...


--

"MC" wrote in message
om...
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi

I'll agree with George here. We have a pool and last winter we left the
solar
blanket underneath the black winter tarp. It's didn't lessen the ice at
all.
The solar blanket just froze intot he ice. I'm in zone 6b and I use a
stock
tank de-icer in the pond. I don't think the aquarium heater is going to do
it...
Janet in Niagara Falls

The de-icer worked great for me.

I am zone 7a/7b. Richmond VA. Temperatures don't fall enough before
Christmas to stop feeding if you don't heat or cover. The ice forms on
others ponds for a couple of days to a week at a time, during late January
and February. The ponds are back up to about 50 by early April. The covers
give me enough solar heating to keep the pond above 50, or I think it would.
I may be trying a reduced heating cycle this year, and let the pond go to 50
degrees after the temperatures get cold enough for the pond to go down once
and stay down. I don't like the cycling up and down.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"Heather" wrote in message
...
Hi Rich:

What is the coldest you get and for how long? We are considering covering
the pond this year. Partly to keep it warmer but mostly to keep six
months
of dust, dirt etc out. Should make spring cleaning easier even if it's
not
so pretty in the winter.

Heather


"RichToyBox" wrote in message
news:2yH6d.47864$He1.25742@attbi_s01...
Having the cover suspended, but fully enclosing the pond area, creates a
dead air space above the pond. Still air is a good insulator. The solar
blanket is a good solar collector and does not have to be in contact with
the water to work. I use the solar blanket with two layers of poly
sheeting
stretched over a lean-to of 2X4's and with heaters in the skimmer, I
maintain a temperature of 70 degrees most of the winter with a
temperature
of about 62 as the low. Fish are fed every day, at least once. Filters
are
functional year round.
--
RichToyBox
http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html


"MC" wrote in message
om...
I thought the cover floating on the surface would help reatin heat at
night and add a lot of heat during the day as the pond gets almost
full sun. My concern is that if there is a big snow, it could take my
cover down to the bottom of the pond.

wrote in message
...
Yes. put something around the heater to keep it from touching the pond
liner. or,
suspend it from something over the pond.
I wouldnt recommend leaving the bubble wrap floating on the water.
find
some way of
suspending it 4-5 inches over the top. and strong enough to hold
snow.
you need an air pump and airstones to put oxygen into the water.
If you seal the bubble wrap up and over teh pond, then do use a bucket
filter with a
pump to keep moving the water and cleaning up the water during the
winter.
in your small pond the temp could stay well above 55oF most of the
winter. my 1600
gallon did all but one month. and I fed them a little bit every few
days
all winter
too. Ingrid

(MC) wrote:
After much research, I've decided to use solar bubble wrap pool cover
floated on the top of my pond and a titanium tube-style heater. The
pool cover will have a border of about an inch to allow gases to
escape. My questions a

1) How do you use one of these acquarium-type heaters? I would
imagine
it would burn the pond liner if I just throw it in there. If I
suspend
it, I would be concerned of it getting knocked loose. Do I need a
wire/mesh case to keep the fish from burning themselves?

2) I've read bio filters are useless below 50 degree. So I won't run
it. Is it better to remove it from the pond, or just leave it? I
anticipate the heater will keep my pond around 40. I don't intend on
"heating" it, just keeping it from freezing solid.



FYI: I am in zone 5, 500 gallons, 30" deep, 6 Koi



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.

"2pods" wrote in message
...

"Rick" wrote in message
nk.net...

"MC" wrote in message
om...
Snippage
What I need help on is how do I over winter my Water Lettuce, my
Marginal
and Bog plants. I know to put my Lilly's in the deepest part of the
pond.
The others I will bring onto the house but don't know how to go about
doing
this?

I'm going to try my water lettuce in my fish tank, I just wish I'd got it
before my water hyacynth gave up the ghost

Peter


Where are you located Peter?

I brought my Water Hyacinth inside today and it doesn't look too bad. Also
brought the Hornwort inside, boy did it do well in the pond. I'm in Toronto
BTW.

Damn bird netting isn't keeping the leaves out though. Time for Plan B.

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...

What I need help on is how do I over winter my Water Lettuce, my
Marginal
and Bog plants. I know to put my Lilly's in the deepest part of the
pond.
The others I will bring onto the house but don't know how to go about
doing
this?

I'm going to try my water lettuce in my fish tank, I just wish I'd got it
before my water hyacynth gave up the ghost

Peter


Where are you located Peter?

I brought my Water Hyacinth inside today and it doesn't look too bad. Also
brought the Hornwort inside, boy did it do well in the pond. I'm in
Toronto
BTW.

Damn bird netting isn't keeping the leaves out though. Time for Plan B.


Unfortunately I'm in Scotland.
My water hyacinth has long gone :-(

My netting is the same, though I saw really fine netting at the local garden
centre last weekend which looks as if it might be better.

What's Plan B, and should we be worried ;-) ?

Peter