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Ants in Compost Bin
Hi people, hope someone can offer some advise on how to get rid of ants in composts.
I've heard that a lot of the ant pesticides fail because the ants know that the chemicals in the pesticides are harmful and do not transfer to the queen, which is required in order to destroy the colony. Apparently a method of overcoming this is to use 'Borax Crystals' found in cleaning soap powders, mix with sugar and water to form a solution and apply to the infected area. This will then be transferred to the queen (assume because of the sugar content) by the other ants and she will die (the chemical mustn’t act instantly, otherwise the other ants wouldn't be able to transfer the Borax to the queen before they died). When the queen is dead all the other ants apparently come rushing out, you can apply a general ant pesticide to destroy them. Can anyone comment on the above if this is a good and permanent method? i). Does it actually work? ii). How long will Borax reside in the compost, and will this have any affects on plants where it will be eventually used? iii). Any other alternative recommended pesticides that will destroy the colony? iv). What, if any, are the harmful affects/problems that ants cause, to compost or plants (i'm only aware of ant mounds on lawns). v). Organic methods, e.g. increasing heat, aeration, cooling down, boiling water, etc? vi). Will the above method or any other chemical pesticides destroy any beneficial organisms within the compost and possibly plants when transferred Much appreciated Neilson |
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#3
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Ants in Compost Bin
In article ,
neilson wrote: Hi people, hope someone can offer some advise on how to get rid of ants in composts. Yes. Keep the compost damper. Ants (and woodlice) are a sign that it is too dry, and DO NO HARM. Do not waste your time and money trying to kill them. To a first approximation, ants do no harm to gardens, and are usually beneficial. Kill specific nests if they are especially irritating (e.g. they raid the kitchen) but otherwise ignore them, Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#4
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Ants in Compost Bin
"neilson" wrote in message ... Hi people, hope someone can offer some advise on how to get rid of ants in composts. I've heard that a lot of the ant pesticides fail because the ants know that the chemicals in the pesticides are harmful and do not transfer to the queen, which is required in order to destroy the colony. Apparently a method of overcoming this is to use 'Borax Crystals' found in cleaning soap powders, mix with sugar and water to form a solution and apply to the infected area. This will then be transferred to the queen (assume because of the sugar content) by the other ants and she will die (the chemical mustn't act instantly, otherwise the other ants wouldn't be able to transfer the Borax to the queen before they died). When the queen is dead all the other ants apparently come rushing out, you can apply a general ant pesticide to destroy them. Can anyone comment on the above if this is a good and permanent method? i). Does it actually work? I have not tried it myself but have seen a large amount of reporting that it does. ii). How long will Borax reside in the compost, and will this have any affects on plants where it will be eventually used? no, unless you use a huge amount and immediately use the compost on gardens it will be fine. This is a bit of a guess but I believe borax will quite quickly either leach out of the compost or, if not that, it will get mixed up in such minute amounts it will not cause a problem. I use a borax and washing soda mix in the laundry. If there were issues of residual poisoning I would not use it. Borax is also a simple chemical and breaks down fairly quickly in the environment (as opposed to complex chemicals that can linger). Don't eat it, wash up after using it, don't use a ton of the stuff and keep it in the compost a few weeks after using it and it will be fine. iv). What, if any, are the harmful affects/problems that ants cause, to compost or plants (i'm only aware of ant mounds on lawns). None in compost I am aware of. They may infact be doing some good in there. Unless your compost heap is at your back door or there is some other nuisance value from the ants consider leaving them be. When you turn your compost or dig it out you will most likely disturb the nest and they will disperse. They may even be gone before the compost is ready. rob |
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Ants in Compost Bin
In article ,
George.com wrote: .... Borax is also a simple chemical and breaks down fairly quickly in the environment (as opposed to complex chemicals that can linger). Er, no. The most basic chemistry should tell you THAT! Borax works as an ant killer because it is a boron salt. Too much boron is harmful to animals, and seems to kill ant queens. Borax is a hydrated sodium borate - i.e. a simple oxide of boron and sodium. The boron and sodium may split or not (I don't know and it doesn't matter). Sodium salts are ubiquitous and essential for all life; boron is essential in small quantities for plant life, and is widespread (obviously). So, unless you go bonkers, all you will do is to increase the boron content of the soil fractionally, which will have a negligible effect. If you take a look on several of the very complex fertilisers, you will often see that they include boron. Similar remarks apply about the use of iron and copper compounds in the garden; rumours have it that winegrowers in Bordeaux HAVE gone bonkers and have increased the copper levels to ecologically harmful levels, but I have never heard of another case. And even that one may be an urban myth. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , George.com wrote: ... Borax is also a simple chemical and breaks down fairly quickly in the environment (as opposed to complex chemicals that can linger). Er, no. The most basic chemistry should tell you THAT! Borax works as an ant killer because it is a boron salt. Too much boron is harmful to animals, and seems to kill ant queens. Borax is a hydrated sodium borate - i.e. a simple oxide of boron and sodium. The boron and sodium may split or not (I don't know and it doesn't matter). Sodium salts are ubiquitous and essential for all life; boron is essential in small quantities for plant life, and is widespread (obviously). So, unless you go bonkers, all you will do is to increase the boron content of the soil fractionally, which will have a negligible effect. If you take a look on several of the very complex fertilisers, you will often see that they include boron. Similar remarks apply about the use of iron and copper compounds in the garden; rumours have it that winegrowers in Bordeaux HAVE gone bonkers and have increased the copper levels to ecologically harmful levels, but I have never heard of another case. And even that one may be an urban myth. Regards, Nick Maclaren. Basic chemistry would also indicate that ionisation would take place;-) The only real problem with using too much borax would be a considerable increase in alkalinity, which may be a problem under certain circumstances. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
neilson wrote:
Hi people, hope someone can offer some advise on how to get rid of ants in composts. I've heard that a lot of the ant pesticides fail because the ants know that the chemicals in the pesticides are harmful and do not transfer to the queen, which is required in order to destroy the colony. Apparently a method of overcoming this is to use 'Borax Crystals' found in cleaning soap powders, mix with sugar and water to form a solution and apply to the infected area. This will then be transferred to the queen (assume because of the sugar content) by the other ants and she will die (the chemical mustn’t act instantly, otherwise the other ants wouldn't be able to transfer the Borax to the queen before they died). When the queen is dead all the other ants apparently come rushing out, you can apply a general ant pesticide to destroy them. Can anyone comment on the above if this is a good and permanent method? i). Does it actually work? ii). How long will Borax reside in the compost, and will this have any affects on plants where it will be eventually used? iii). Any other alternative recommended pesticides that will destroy the colony? iv). What, if any, are the harmful affects/problems that ants cause, to compost or plants (i'm only aware of ant mounds on lawns). v). Organic methods, e.g. increasing heat, aeration, cooling down, boiling water, etc? vi). Will the above method or any other chemical pesticides destroy any beneficial organisms within the compost and possibly plants when transferred Much appreciated Neilson whilst ants in themselves wont harm the system there is a small problem you may suffer by having them in the garden, that is they farm aphids and are well known of transporting them to new shoot areas so the aphids can feed. Ants milk aphids for sweet plant sap. To stop them in the compost bin try keeping it moist or buy a rotating bin and turn it often which will disturb them enough to relocate. Personally i like the little blighters as they help destroy more pests than they relocate. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , George.com wrote: ... Borax is also a simple chemical and breaks down fairly quickly in the environment (as opposed to complex chemicals that can linger). Er, no. The most basic chemistry should tell you THAT! Nick, I realise that agreeing with me can be harmful to your reputation but isn't that essentially what you are doing. I am interested as a learning exercise how your (useful and understandable) explaination differs greatly from what I have said. You are saying that borax (sodium borate) remains in environment in that form? Borax works as an ant killer because it is a boron salt. Too much boron is harmful to animals, and seems to kill ant queens. Borax is a hydrated sodium borate - i.e. a simple oxide of boron and sodium. The boron and sodium may split or not (I don't know and it doesn't matter). Sodium salts are ubiquitous and essential for all life; boron is essential in small quantities for plant life, and is widespread (obviously). So, unless you go bonkers, all you will do is to increase the boron content of the soil fractionally, which will have a negligible effect. If you take a look on several of the very complex fertilisers, you will often see that they include boron. Similar remarks apply about the use of iron and copper compounds in the garden; rumours have it that winegrowers in Bordeaux HAVE gone bonkers and have increased the copper levels to ecologically harmful levels, but I have never heard of another case. And even that one may be an urban myth. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
In article , "George.com" writes: | | ... Borax is also a simple chemical and breaks down fairly | quickly in the environment (as opposed to complex chemicals that can | linger). | | Er, no. The most basic chemistry should tell you THAT! | | Nick, I realise that agreeing with me can be harmful to your reputation but | isn't that essentially what you are doing. I am interested as a learning | exercise how your (useful and understandable) explaination differs greatly | from what I have said. You are saying that borax (sodium borate) remains in | environment in that form? No. I have no idea what happens to it but, as the active ingredient is an element (boron), it isn't going to break down quickly (or at all) in any environment that plants or animals will survive in. The point is that high levels in the diet of insects causes sterility or death (whichever it is) and that very low levels in the soil are essential to plant life. Very like copper and iron in that respect. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#10
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Ants in Compost Bin
Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article , "George.com" writes: [...] You are saying that borax (sodium borate) remains in environment in that form? No. I have no idea what happens to it but, as the active ingredient is an element (boron), it isn't going to break down quickly (or at all) in any environment that plants or animals will survive in. The point is that high levels in the diet of insects causes sterility or death (whichever it is) and that very low levels in the soil are essential to plant life. Very like copper and iron in that respect. In any case, commercial ant-killers such as Nippon are just borax in a sugar syrup, as far as I know. So one might as well just buy Nippon unless one needs borax for other purposes. -- Mike. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
"Mike Lyle" wrote in message ... Nick Maclaren wrote: In article , "George.com" writes: [...] You are saying that borax (sodium borate) remains in environment in that form? No. I have no idea what happens to it but, as the active ingredient is an element (boron), it isn't going to break down quickly (or at all) in any environment that plants or animals will survive in. The point is that high levels in the diet of insects causes sterility or death (whichever it is) and that very low levels in the soil are essential to plant life. Very like copper and iron in that respect. In any case, commercial ant-killers such as Nippon are just borax in a sugar syrup, as far as I know. So one might as well just buy Nippon unless one needs borax for other purposes. -- Mike. You are right about Nippon containing borax. I have a suspicion that mixing your own formulation contravenes "Rules and Regs" ? Something about householders not being competent to get it right. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
Rupert (W.Yorkshire) wrote:
"Mike Lyle" [...] In any case, commercial ant-killers such as Nippon are just borax in a sugar syrup, as far as I know. So one might as well just buy Nippon unless one needs borax for other purposes. You are right about Nippon containing borax. I have a suspicion that mixing your own formulation contravenes "Rules and Regs" ? Something about householders not being competent to get it right. As I've said before, I don't think these rules and regs have any bearing at all on what a private citizen does in his own home for his own purposes. Start selling stuff, or polluting the environment, or making explosives or something, and it's different -- and quite right, too: you'd fire a government which didn't try to control it. -- Mike. |
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Ants in Compost Bin
"Nick Maclaren" wrote in message ... In article , "George.com" writes: | | ... Borax is also a simple chemical and breaks down fairly | quickly in the environment (as opposed to complex chemicals that can | linger). | | Er, no. The most basic chemistry should tell you THAT! | | Nick, I realise that agreeing with me can be harmful to your reputation but | isn't that essentially what you are doing. I am interested as a learning | exercise how your (useful and understandable) explaination differs greatly | from what I have said. You are saying that borax (sodium borate) remains in | environment in that form? No. I have no idea what happens to it but, as the active ingredient is an element (boron), it isn't going to break down quickly (or at all) in any environment that plants or animals will survive in. The point is that high levels in the diet of insects causes sterility or death (whichever it is) and that very low levels in the soil are essential to plant life. Very like copper and iron in that respect. yes, thanks. I should have said that borax is a simple compound that does not remain in the environment as a complex chemical or that it is a naturally occurring chemical/mineral (?). My language wasn't exacting. rob |
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Compost Heap Fauna (was Ants in Compost Bin)
Nick Maclaren wrote: In article , neilson wrote: Hi people, hope someone can offer some advise on how to get rid of ants in composts. Yes. Keep the compost damper. Ants (and woodlice) are a sign that it is too dry, and DO NO HARM The latter was my first gut response to this post. The former I am surprised about. My compost heap was part OK, part soggy mess, and it was RIDDLED with woodlice in both parts. But there was a lot of other fauna, too. Slugs, snails, millepedes and centipedes (they move too fast for me to count the legs... so either or both), earth worms by the tonne, small mini-maggot like critters, small flies, and many other creepy crawlies - but no ants that I noticed. I hope re-starting it with lots of shredded paper and twig chips layered through will help it dry out and break down better, though. Cat(h) |
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