Been using Vine weevil killer all year, but now found lots of grubs
eating into roots of my potted plants.

Checked on label of bottle and it says ...

This Vine Weevil Killer is a systemic insecticide to protect plants
grown in pots & containers from damage caused by vine weevils & reduce
greenfly, blackfly & whitefly infestation.
One application gives protection for up to 4 months against Vine
Weevils & helps reduce Greenfly, Blackfly & Whitefly infestation for
up to 6 weeks.
Mix 30mls with 1 litre of water & use the resulting solution to drench
the soil or compost.
1 litre of solution will treat 10 litres of compost.

Does this mean that the treatment has to be via the roots only, and
not via the leaves as per other systemic insecticides ???

Is the Nematodes more effective. Which is more cost effective, as I
have lots of pots.

Can I keep Nematodes somehow till next year.

"stevesmith" wrote in message
...
Been using Vine weevil killer all year, but now found lots of grubs
eating into roots of my potted plants.

Checked on label of bottle and it says ...

This Vine Weevil Killer is a systemic insecticide to protect plants
grown in pots & containers from damage caused by vine weevils & reduce
greenfly, blackfly & whitefly infestation.
One application gives protection for up to 4 months against Vine
Weevils & helps reduce Greenfly, Blackfly & Whitefly infestation for
up to 6 weeks.
Mix 30mls with 1 litre of water & use the resulting solution to drench
the soil or compost.
Does this mean that the treatment has to be via the roots only, and
not via the leaves as per other systemic insecticides ???

Is the Nematodes more effective. Which is more cost effective, as I
have lots of pots.

Can I keep Nematodes somehow till next year.

I've used both Provado and the Nematodes.I found the nematodes ineffective
but that may have been my impatience.
You can not store the nematodes for long periods.
The Provado is used as a soil drench and you need to make a rough assessment
of the volume of your pot and apply the appropriate volume direct to the
soil. I believe there is a compost available that contains vine weevil
killer which may work out more cost effective.
Once you are free of the damned things grow a few primula in pots,treated
with the killer,to act as a lure.

"Rupert (W.Yorkshire)" wrote in message
...

"stevesmith" wrote in message
...
Been using Vine weevil killer all year, but now found lots of grubs
eating into roots of my potted plants.

Checked on label of bottle and it says ...

This Vine Weevil Killer is a systemic insecticide to protect plants
grown in pots & containers from damage caused by vine weevils & reduce
greenfly, blackfly & whitefly infestation.
One application gives protection for up to 4 months against Vine
Weevils & helps reduce Greenfly, Blackfly & Whitefly infestation for
up to 6 weeks.
Mix 30mls with 1 litre of water & use the resulting solution to drench
the soil or compost.
Does this mean that the treatment has to be via the roots only, and
not via the leaves as per other systemic insecticides ???

Is the Nematodes more effective. Which is more cost effective, as I
have lots of pots.

Can I keep Nematodes somehow till next year.

I've used both Provado and the Nematodes.I found the nematodes
ineffective
but that may have been my impatience.
You can not store the nematodes for long periods.
The Provado is used as a soil drench and you need to make a rough
assessment
of the volume of your pot and apply the appropriate volume direct to the
soil. I believe there is a compost available that contains vine weevil
killer which may work out more cost effective.
Once you are free of the damned things grow a few primula in pots,treated
with the killer,to act as a lure.

If you are in cold parts then the bio control works well, down here it
worked well during the summer but the winter was too cold for the control
but not too cold for the vine weevils! so control was never better than 75%,
then changed to provado but found that you needed to repeat 3 times per year
to ensure control and it was slow to apply (yes you can buy ready mixed
compost but it has a short shelf life) we now use Vi nil which is excellent
but very expensive and I am not sure if it is available to gardeners.

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and
Lapageria rosea

"Charlie Pridham" wrote in message
...

"Rupert (W.Yorkshire)" wrote in message
...

"stevesmith" wrote in message
...
Been using Vine weevil killer all year, but now found lots of grubs
eating into roots of my potted plants.

Checked on label of bottle and it says ...

This Vine Weevil Killer is a systemic insecticide to protect plants
grown in pots & containers from damage caused by vine weevils & reduce
greenfly, blackfly & whitefly infestation.
One application gives protection for up to 4 months against Vine
Weevils & helps reduce Greenfly, Blackfly & Whitefly infestation for
up to 6 weeks.
Mix 30mls with 1 litre of water & use the resulting solution to drench
the soil or compost.
Does this mean that the treatment has to be via the roots only, and
not via the leaves as per other systemic insecticides ???

Is the Nematodes more effective. Which is more cost effective, as I
have lots of pots.

Can I keep Nematodes somehow till next year.

I've used both Provado and the Nematodes.I found the nematodes
ineffective
but that may have been my impatience.
You can not store the nematodes for long periods.
The Provado is used as a soil drench and you need to make a rough
assessment
of the volume of your pot and apply the appropriate volume direct to the
soil. I believe there is a compost available that contains vine weevil
killer which may work out more cost effective.
Once you are free of the damned things grow a few primula in pots,treated
with the killer,to act as a lure.

If you are in cold parts then the bio control works well, down here it
worked well during the summer but the winter was too cold for the control
but not too cold for the vine weevils! so control was never better than
75%,
then changed to provado but found that you needed to repeat 3 times per
year
to ensure control and it was slow to apply (yes you can buy ready mixed
compost but it has a short shelf life) we now use Vi nil which is
excellent
but very expensive and I am not sure if it is available to gardeners.

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and
Lapageria rosea


Useful data--thanks. Do you find that plants treated with provado also seem
to have a resistance to other sap sucking blighters? I have been told that
it does have a degree of control over Red spider mite if that is ever
possible.

"Rupert (W.Yorkshire)" wrote in message
...

"Charlie Pridham" wrote in message
...

"Rupert (W.Yorkshire)" wrote in message
...

"stevesmith" wrote in message
...
Been using Vine weevil killer all year, but now found lots of grubs
eating into roots of my potted plants.

Checked on label of bottle and it says ...

This Vine Weevil Killer is a systemic insecticide to protect plants
grown in pots & containers from damage caused by vine weevils &
reduce
greenfly, blackfly & whitefly infestation.
One application gives protection for up to 4 months against Vine
Weevils & helps reduce Greenfly, Blackfly & Whitefly infestation for
up to 6 weeks.
Mix 30mls with 1 litre of water & use the resulting solution to
drench
the soil or compost.
Does this mean that the treatment has to be via the roots only, and
not via the leaves as per other systemic insecticides ???

Is the Nematodes more effective. Which is more cost effective, as I
have lots of pots.

Can I keep Nematodes somehow till next year.

I've used both Provado and the Nematodes.I found the nematodes
ineffective
but that may have been my impatience.
You can not store the nematodes for long periods.
The Provado is used as a soil drench and you need to make a rough
assessment
of the volume of your pot and apply the appropriate volume direct to
the
soil. I believe there is a compost available that contains vine weevil
killer which may work out more cost effective.
Once you are free of the damned things grow a few primula in
pots,treated
with the killer,to act as a lure.

If you are in cold parts then the bio control works well, down here it
worked well during the summer but the winter was too cold for the
control
but not too cold for the vine weevils! so control was never better than
75%,
then changed to provado but found that you needed to repeat 3 times per
year
to ensure control and it was slow to apply (yes you can buy ready mixed
compost but it has a short shelf life) we now use Vi nil which is
excellent
but very expensive and I am not sure if it is available to gardeners.

--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and
Lapageria rosea


Useful data--thanks. Do you find that plants treated with provado also
seem
to have a resistance to other sap sucking blighters? I have been told that
it does have a degree of control over Red spider mite if that is ever
possible.

Certainly reduces white fly but has little effect on red spider, sadly it is
lethal to bees even weeks after soaking the soil.
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and
Lapageria rosea

Charlie Pridham wrote:
Certainly reduces white fly but has little effect on red spider, sadly it is
lethal to bees even weeks after soaking the soil.

It contains imidacloprid. It says that it should be applied 'away from
bees', and can be applied on 'edible plants'. For a plastic garden
perhaps ....

In article .com,
"La Puce" wrote:

Charlie Pridham wrote:
Certainly reduces white fly but has little effect on red spider, sadly it is
lethal to bees even weeks after soaking the soil.

It contains imidacloprid. It says that it should be applied 'away from
bees', and can be applied on 'edible plants'. For a plastic garden
perhaps ....

Cactus growers use it to treat mealy bug and root mealies, both of
which are a severe problem.

John McMillan wrote:
Cactus growers use it to treat mealy bug and root mealies, both of
which are a severe problem.

Sad it may be but we just can't have it all. On one hand you have
monoculture and the use of chemicals which kills off natural predators,
or grow a diversity of plants which would attract predators to kill the
mealy bugs. We have choices but the logic here is quite clear. Don't
you think?

"La Puce" wrote in message
oups.com...

John McMillan wrote:
Cactus growers use it to treat mealy bug and root mealies, both of
which are a severe problem.

Sad it may be but we just can't have it all. On one hand you have
monoculture and the use of chemicals which kills off natural predators,
or grow a diversity of plants which would attract predators to kill the
mealy bugs. We have choices but the logic here is quite clear. Don't
you think?

So far as I know it is not very effective against mealy bug, but then with
nothing else eating them in the uk something is better than nothing! (I
still prefer using a toothbrush to squash them), and I forgot to mention
root aphid/mealybug which it totally got rid of, so it very effective at
that, the reduction of white fly has made life in the conservatory easier,
and yes I do still use it in there despite the bee problem.
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and
Lapageria rosea

Charlie Pridham wrote:
So far as I know it is not very effective against mealy bug, but then with
nothing else eating them in the uk something is better than nothing! (I
still prefer using a toothbrush to squash them), and I forgot to mention
root aphid/mealybug which it totally got rid of, so it very effective at
that, the reduction of white fly has made life in the conservatory easier,
and yes I do still use it in there despite the bee problem.

No honey for you then. Wasps are good predators of mealy bugs aren't
they? But in a conservatory it's totally different. I don't know enough
about growing on a regular basis there. I use my conservatory/verandah
as a propagator until May, then it turns into a kind of lounge I
suppose. Have you tried the ladybirds and the little mite Hypoaspis as
predators? I'm not sure how they would work in winter whilst the pests
are overwintering in your conservatory. Do you use the spray once,
twice a year?

In article ,
"Charlie Pridham" wrote:

"La Puce" wrote in message
oups.com...

John McMillan wrote:
Cactus growers use it to treat mealy bug and root mealies, both of
which are a severe problem.

Sad it may be but we just can't have it all. On one hand you have
monoculture and the use of chemicals which kills off natural predators,
or grow a diversity of plants which would attract predators to kill the
mealy bugs. We have choices but the logic here is quite clear. Don't
you think?

Dunno. The cacti in my greenhouse are fairly diverse but they are
all cacti (except the ones that are other succulents). None of them
seem very capable of attracting predators to attack mealy bugs.
I don't think the logic is quite clear at all. I could grow an outdoor
ecosystem with a range of species and various predators to deal with
pests. I do actually try that in the garden. It doesn't have cacti
in it though - except a few in summer. The cacti that live in the
greenhouse are in an entirely artificial environment. Sometimes
there are pests in plants brought from outside and I try to
control them by artificial means. I don't eat any of the cacti and
they flower rarely and bees probably don't get near them so I'm
not so worried about using chemical controls.


So far as I know it is not very effective against mealy bug, but then with
nothing else eating them in the uk something is better than nothing! (I
still prefer using a toothbrush to squash them), and I forgot to mention
root aphid/mealybug which it totally got rid of, so it very effective at
that, the reduction of white fly has made life in the conservatory easier,
and yes I do still use it in there despite the bee problem.

Yes, I think I mostly meant root mealies.
Provado does seem to deal with the others (surface mealies?) too.
Squashing them is always an option - but they do like hiding in wooly
and densely spined plants. If there's lots of the
white wool that they lay eggs in, I often paint them with a solution
of naphthalene (moth balls) in alcohol. That seems to do the trick
without damaging the plant.

For those who are unfamiliar with mealy bug and are getting worried
that their leeks might get infected, I'd just like to say that I've
never ever seen them on an outdoor plant in the UK. They infest only
houseplants and greenhouse plants.
I've never heard of an effective biological control for mealy bugs.
If you have a lot, I suspect the best thing to do is to start a
cochineal farm.

"La Puce" wrote in message
ups.com...

Charlie Pridham wrote:
So far as I know it is not very effective against mealy bug, but then
with
nothing else eating them in the uk something is better than nothing! (I
still prefer using a toothbrush to squash them), and I forgot to mention
root aphid/mealybug which it totally got rid of, so it very effective at
that, the reduction of white fly has made life in the conservatory
easier,
and yes I do still use it in there despite the bee problem.

No honey for you then. Wasps are good predators of mealy bugs aren't
they? But in a conservatory it's totally different. I don't know enough
about growing on a regular basis there. I use my conservatory/verandah
as a propagator until May, then it turns into a kind of lounge I
suppose. Have you tried the ladybirds and the little mite Hypoaspis as
predators? I'm not sure how they would work in winter whilst the pests
are overwintering in your conservatory. Do you use the spray once,
twice a year?

I try not to spray at all, preferring to move stuff outside. In a small
space the bio control for mealy bug is a waste of time as the adult lady
birds just fly straight out of any openings (although it works fine in
bigger greenhouses) So a good tidy at this time of year looking for the
overwintering egg sacs usually is enough, if it isn't a drench in late
spring with intercept (pravado). oddly we have a bee colony just 20 feet
from the conservatory but the honey bees seldom come in but the bumble bees
do, they seem drawn to the Pelargoniums.
--
Charlie, gardening in Cornwall.
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of National Plant Collections of Clematis viticella (cvs) and
Lapageria rosea