"mo" wrote in message
...

wrote in message

Mo, I have some experience with working under a floodlight in the
garden and I can tell you that it is positively dangerous. One of
these lights creates intense light and very dark shadows. If you work
with your back to it, your own shadow obscures anything that you are
doing and you could end up putting a fork through your foot - or
something equally painful.
You really need at least two lights, well spaced so that they fill in
each others' shadows. They do not need to be more than 300w each.

Cheers

I wonder if the screwfix one with 2 lights allows the 2 lights to be
seperate

if not i might get 2 cheaper lights and place them at each end of the
garden

i assume they are ok to run a couple off a normal extension?

The power consumption should be within the bounds of any normal extension
lead (even the cheapest of those wind-in ones from B&Q and the like can take
something like 5A when unwound; 1kW is about 4A). Just don't lie the socket
end in the wet grass or anything like that. If you have a RCD device that
you use for things like an electric lawn-mower, use it here, too, just to be
safe.

On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 18:49:04 -0000, "mo" wrote:


wrote in message

Mo, I have some experience with working under a floodlight in the
garden and I can tell you that it is positively dangerous. One of
these lights creates intense light and very dark shadows. If you work
with your back to it, your own shadow obscures anything that you are
doing and you could end up putting a fork through your foot - or
something equally painful.
You really need at least two lights, well spaced so that they fill in
each others' shadows. They do not need to be more than 300w each.

Cheers

I wonder if the screwfix one with 2 lights allows the 2 lights to be
seperate

if not i might get 2 cheaper lights and place them at each end of the garden

i assume they are ok to run a couple off a normal extension?

A normal 13 amp extension cable will take the load OK, but you
shouldn't use it outdoors because the sockets are not waterproof. If
they get damp you could be in for a very 'enlivening' experience.
You must in any case use an RCD "residual current device" (available
for DIY stores), but it may not protect you under all circumstances.
(I'm sorry if my comments sound negative, but I'm just trying to
protect you!)

wrote in message
A normal 13 amp extension cable will take the load OK, but you
shouldn't use it outdoors because the sockets are not waterproof. If
they get damp you could be in for a very 'enlivening' experience.
You must in any case use an RCD "residual current device" (available
for DIY stores), but it may not protect you under all circumstances.
(I'm sorry if my comments sound negative, but I'm just trying to
protect you!)



can you link to a suitable one on screwfix?

we have an RCD on our main fuse box - i guess it only works for things
directly attached to the fusebox (i.e shower/cooker) rather than things on
the plugs?

On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 23:04:59 -0000, "mo" wrote:


wrote in message
A normal 13 amp extension cable will take the load OK, but you
shouldn't use it outdoors because the sockets are not waterproof. If
they get damp you could be in for a very 'enlivening' experience.
You must in any case use an RCD "residual current device" (available
for DIY stores), but it may not protect you under all circumstances.
(I'm sorry if my comments sound negative, but I'm just trying to
protect you!)



can you link to a suitable one on screwfix?

we have an RCD on our main fuse box - i guess it only works for things
directly attached to the fusebox (i.e shower/cooker) rather than things on
the plugs?

I don't know the layout of your garden, but it would be *far* better
to mount the lights on the house. That way the wiring will be indoors
and protected from the rain (and from you). Also you benefit from
having the lights higher and shining downwards, which gives better
illumination.
Any form of extension lead will always be subject to damage from tools
or water, and a hazard to tripping. There *are* heavy duty cables and
waterproof connectors intended for building sites, but they are heavy
and expensive, and a nuisance to store when not in use.
Your existing RCD could have been installed either to protect the
whole house, or just on one circuit such as a shower. If the former,
it will protect the outside cable but if it trips it will switch off
the whole house - not a good idea when you are outside at night. If
the latter, it will not protect your extension lead. And there are
certain fault conditions that an RCD will not protect.
An extension lead is fine for a one-off job in the garden, such as to
use a power tool on a fine day. But for your sort of application I
would strongly recommend that you fit two lights as far apart as
possible, mounted on the wall of your house. If you get the ones with
PIR movement detectors, they will also act as security lights.

wrote:

I don't know the layout of your garden, but it would be *far* better
to mount the lights on the house. That way the wiring will be indoors
and protected from the rain (and from you). Also you benefit from
having the lights higher and shining downwards, which gives better
illumination.

I have to agree. At a previous house I mounted a 150 W halogen
floodlight at first floor level, and it gave sufficient light to
read labels in the greenhouse about 100 ft away.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

'Mike' wrote:

how much electricity will it use?

1KW
--

Martin


Which of course is ...... A Unit.

Mike



No Mike, you are incorrect.

kW and units of electricity are totally different things. Often
confused, but totally different.

Here in the UK at least, we are billed for electricity by the amount of
*energy* we use. Energy is calculated by multiplying time by power.

Energy = power * time.
Energy (kW hr, or "units") = Power (Watts) * time (hours)


1 kW for 6 hours = 1 * 6 = 6 units
2 kW for 1 hour = 2 * 1 = 2 units.
500 W (0.5 kW) for 10 hours = 0.5 * 10 = 5 units.

If a 2400 W kettle takes 3 minutes to boil a kettle of water, it uses

2.4 * 3/60 = 0.12 units.

If a "unit" of electricity costs you 15 p, then boiling the kettle has
cost you

15 * 0.12 = 1.8 pence.

Assuming that light has two x 500 W lamps, it will use 1000 W (1 kW) of
power, and will use one unit of electricity every hour. So likely to be
around 10-20 pence per hour - depending on what you pay for one unit of
electricity.

Dave wrote:
'Mike' wrote:

how much electricity will it use?

1KW
--

Martin


Which of course is ...... A Unit.

Mike


No Mike, you are incorrect.

kW and units of electricity are totally different things. Often
confused, but totally different.

Here in the UK at least, we are billed for electricity by the amount of
*energy* we use. Energy is calculated by multiplying time by power.

Energy = power * time.
Energy (kW hr, or "units") = Power (Watts) * time (hours)

Oops, that should have read

Energy (kW hr, or "units") = Power (kW) * time (hours)

wrote:

Any form of extension lead will always be subject to damage from tools
or water, and a hazard to tripping. There *are* heavy duty cables and
waterproof connectors intended for building sites, but they are heavy
and expensive, and a nuisance to store when not in use.


You can use standard 13 A plugs in a special socket for outside use.

http://mydeco.com/product/exterior-1...ffc2e6f93c798/

The socket is designed with a water proof cap which seals around the
cable. A RCD would be essential. I have a couple on my garage. They have
their own RCD, which is separete from the rest of the garage. So if one
trips, the chest freezer in the garage would not have its power
interrupted. (The house is wired totally sepparate from the garage).

However, I would tend to agree that lights mounted high up are
preferable to the sort shown.

Another thing to consider is not to "blind" drivers if near a road.

Martin wrote:

On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:28:22 GMT, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I have to agree. At a previous house I mounted a 150 W halogen
floodlight at first floor level, and it gave sufficient light to
read labels in the greenhouse about 100 ft away.

You have good eyesight

Large writing ;-)

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

Finally got one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11281/...00W-Site-Light

£12.50 odd in B and Q and flipping half that price in Screwfix (got soem
stuff from B and Q and went into screwfix on the way back - so will be
retuning the B and Q one)

I am going to put it on my roof or maybe hang it up on a pole for maximum
exposure

May even get another

Only downsaide is a 3m cable so will need an extension for it.

Cheers for the help (if you wnat to read more on my purchase I am gonna make
a post on uk.d-i-y about a small issue I had!)

mo wrote:

wrote in message
A normal 13 amp extension cable will take the load OK, but you
shouldn't use it outdoors because the sockets are not waterproof. If
they get damp you could be in for a very 'enlivening' experience.
You must in any case use an RCD "residual current device" (available
for DIY stores), but it may not protect you under all circumstances.
(I'm sorry if my comments sound negative, but I'm just trying to
protect you!)



can you link to a suitable one on screwfix?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15263/...Ds/RCD-Adaptor

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0042772 is cheaper but does the same.

we have an RCD on our main fuse box - i guess it only works for things
directly attached to the fusebox (i.e shower/cooker) rather than
things on the plugs?

Depends how modern your fusebox is. Mine was replaced in 2003 and all
sockets are protected my an rcd. It's only the lights and boiler that isn't.

--
Steve

The message
from Dave contains these words:

/snip/

Another thing to consider is not to "blind" drivers if near a road.

Glad you made that point.

--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig

The message
from "mo" contains these words:

I am going to put it on my roof or maybe hang it up on a pole for maximum
exposure

TMI!

--
Rusty
Direct reply to: horrid dot squeak snailything zetnet point co period uk
Separator in search of a sig

The message
from Martin contains these words:

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:06:59 GMT, Rusty_Hinge

wrote:

The message
from Dave contains these words:

/snip/

Another thing to consider is not to "blind" drivers if near a road.

Glad you made that point.

nor attract landing aircraft.

Big moffs.

--
Rusty
Men love women, women love children, children love hamsters.
(Alice Thomas Ellis)

Rusty_Hinge writes
The message
from Dave contains these words:

/snip/

Another thing to consider is not to "blind" drivers if near a road.

Glad you made that point.

And neighbours. One of our neighbours has a security light which is
triggered by the slightest movement of trees or animals, shines the full
length of our garden, and at that distance is enough to dazzle as you
negotiate the steep steps from our back door.

I imagine they're completely unaware of the effect on us (though they
won't be for much longer ;-) )
--
Kay