Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and I'm not sure what makes sense. If you are weeding between shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?
- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting them off?
- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and again?
- do you compost your annual weeds? If so, how do you identify/separate perennials for the bin?
- how meticulous are you in your weeding? Do you get up every last tiny weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?
- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? If so, what do you use and how much reduction do you get?

Thanks for any help you can give,

Laura

Hi Laura, no doubt you'll get many replies and probably many different favourite 'weeding regime's' b ut for what its worth, this is how i do it ! I spot spray perennial weeds with glysophate (carefully on a still day) or if your 'anti-chemical', dig them up ! As for annual weeds, the secret is timing, both weed size and weather. Firstly, try to do it when the weeds are small and secondly do it on a hot sunny day and you'll find that they just shrivel up.
My favourite tool for weeding is a very sharp draw hoe (the type you pull towards you) this way as you work forward your pulling the weeds away from the areas your working and i find you miss fewer weeds this way. Once clean, I mulch with woodchip, obtained free when my local tree surgeon is working in my area and they are pleased to have somewhere to dump these chippings.
These chippings very quickly go dark and for me its a cheap way to mulch !
My shrub beds are now quite mature so, I get very few weeds. I did spend alot of time prior to planting to make sure there were no perennial weeds and I'll be honest, i rarely get enough to compost bu if i did, I'd be quite happy to put them on the heap, bearing in mind you should only have about a 6" layer of 'material' and then I'd sprinkle a little soil in between along with a scattering of fish blood and bone just to get the compost heap working.
Finally, I think its important if you have a bad weed problem, to hoe at regular intervals, almost before the weeds can be seen, this way, especially at this time of year, these small seedlings once disturbed quickly disappear.
Lannerman

"Laura Corin" wrote


Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and
I'm not sure what makes sense. If you are weeding between
shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?

Pull up those that will, hoe between rows/plants on the allotment.

- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched
surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting
them off?

It's that loose dry soil that stops more weeds germinating so it's what you
want. Sounds like your hoe is not sharp enough, it needs to be knife sharp.
The Wolf Garten Multitool Push Pull weeder is self sharpening and worth
every penny which is why Kew, the RHS etc all use them.

- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?

Yes, no point in trying to dig up bindweed etc as the roots go down too deep
and one piece will start a new plant, you will just spread it around by
digging. Also weeds in places you can't get to easily, next to rabbit
fences, behind compost bins... are best sprayed rather than being left to
seed.

- do you compost your annual weeds? If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?

Yes, of course. I just know what to and what not to compost, basically it's
just Bindweed on our allotment which we leave out to dry out or take home
for the bin.

- how meticulous are you in your weeding? Do you get up every last tiny
weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?

Main priority is to weed thoroughly plants that hate weeds round them, so
members of the onion family, the other priority is to stop any weeds from
seeding. I am not so obsessive about weeds but the boss is.

- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

That is what the hoe does. Until it rains again.

--
Regards
Bob Hobden
W.of London. UK

"Laura Corin" wrote in message
...

Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and
I'm not sure what makes sense. If you are weeding between
shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?
- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched
surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting
them off?
- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?
- do you compost your annual weeds? If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?
- how meticulous are you in your weeding? Do you get up every last tiny
weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?
- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

Thanks for any help you can give,

Laura



I am an untidy and lazy gardener, we do very little weeding during the
summer hoping that the winter work and mulch will keep things under control.
Deep rooted stuff like bind weed gets squirted with roundup early in the
season before all the other plants cover over, all other weeding is
conducted with a glass of wine in one hand (this stops a quick pull up of
about to seed weeds turning into a 2 hour work up)
I never ever dig any part of the garden
I never ever take away any weeds I pull up I just leave them on the surface.
We do wander around the garden everyday and deal with any weeds straight
away before they seed.
Here weeding is a very minor job and certainly occupies very little of the
time. Find away to reduce grass cutting and I would love to hear from you! I
have my 1 acre down to 40 mins but that's every week and I resent the time
spent


--
Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall
Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella
and Lapageria rosea cvs
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 15:45:04 +0000, Laura Corin
wrote:


Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and
I'm not sure what makes sense. If you are weeding between
shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?
- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched
surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting
them off?
- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?
- do you compost your annual weeds? If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?
- how meticulous are you in your weeding? Do you get up every last tiny
weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?
- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

Thanks for any help you can give,

Laura

My garden is untrimmed. I just let everything grow. If any plant or
weed gets too big I cut it down or pull it up. My garden is admired by
many visitors despite my lackadaisical methods.

Steve

--
Neural network software applications, help and support.

Neural Planner Software www.NPSL1.com

"Martin" wrote

"Bob Hobden" wrote:


It's that loose dry soil that stops more weeds germinating so it's what
you
want. Sounds like your hoe is not sharp enough, it needs to be knife
sharp.
The Wolf Garten Multitool Push Pull weeder is self sharpening and worth
every penny which is why Kew, the RHS etc all use them.


http://www.worldofwolf.co.uk/Product...-RFM%2015.html

RFM10 or RFM 15?


The smaller one, the large one is a bit cumbersome for weeding between rows
and hard work on heavy soil.

--
Regards
Bob Hobden
W.of London. UK

On 27/06/2011 08:56, Bob Hobden wrote:
"Laura Corin" wrote

- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?

Yes, no point in trying to dig up bindweed etc as the roots go down too
deep and one piece will start a new plant, you will just spread it
around by digging. Also weeds in places you can't get to easily, next to
rabbit fences, behind compost bins... are best sprayed rather than being
left to seed.

Depends how careful you are. Hitting bindweed or ground elder with
glyphosate first and then a couple of weeks later digging out as much as
you can get is more effective than either method on its own. Weakened by
the effects of weedkiller the root fragments are less likely to make new
plants. And if you force the much deep roots to make 8" of new growth
from reserves before they can see the light again and mercilessly hit
any green shoots that appear it will quickly give up the ghost.

- do you compost your annual weeds? If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?

Yes, of course. I just know what to and what not to compost, basically
it's just Bindweed on our allotment which we leave out to dry out or
take home for the bin.

I have never known the tops of bindweed to regrow. The roots must be
sundried before they are ok to compost unless your heap runs very hot.

- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

That is what the hoe does. Until it rains again.


I prefer a small fork and a 10" screwdriver for extracting deep rooted
weeds in tight spaces amongst shrubs.

Regards,
Martin Brown

On Sun, 26 Jun 2011 15:45:04 +0000, Laura Corin
wrote:


Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and
I'm not sure what makes sense. If you are weeding between
shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?
- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched
surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting
them off?
- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?
- do you compost your annual weeds? If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?
- how meticulous are you in your weeding? Do you get up every last tiny
weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?
- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

Thanks for any help you can give,

Laura

I have a wonderful little hand tool called a Kirpi which I bought
years ago from an ad in the Organic Gardening magazine. It originated
in Africa somewhere. I can't see to use a hoe safely, so a hand tool
is essential for me. It has a curved blade which pushes and pulls.
I've been using it today to clear a weedy patch. Have never found
anything better.
It's still available in the OG website:
http://www.organiccatalogue.com/cata...a155530ab099ed

Pam in Bristol

Many thanks

Laura

Can you tell me what your winter work and mulch routine looks like? I like the sound of minimal weeding with a glass of wine!

Thanks

Laura

"Laura Corin" wrote in message
...

'Charlie Pridham;928087' Wrote:


I am an untidy and lazy gardener, we do very little weeding during the
summer hoping that the winter work and mulch will keep things under
control.


Can you tell me what your winter work and mulch routine looks like? I
like the sound of minimal weeding with a glass of wine!

Thanks

Laura


In the winter we move along the various areas, cutting back the perennials
and clematis and putting them through the shredder, any bramble and ivy is
removed at this time as it is now obvious where it is. The soil surface is
disturbed as little as possible and certainly not dug. the shredded material
is placed back on the top of the soil and supplemented with bags of
shreddings from the summer hedge cuttings that have been artfully hidden
until needed. Come spring our daily wanderings will spot any outbreaks of
perennial weeds like bindweed which is hit with round up on dry days before
all the other plants get big.
Annual weeds like fireweed do appear, here the trick is to remove same
before they seed but generally after a few years the amount of weed is very
small and easily dealt with on our wine drinking tours!

You should not be able to see any soil by this time of year, that way if you
have weeds you can't see them and can enjoy the garden


--
Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall
Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella
and Lapageria rosea cvs
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk

"Sacha" wrote in message
...
On 2011-06-28 08:51:55 +0100, "Charlie Pridham"
said:


"Laura Corin" wrote in message
...

'Charlie Pridham;928087' Wrote:


I am an untidy and lazy gardener, we do very little weeding during the
summer hoping that the winter work and mulch will keep things under
control.


Except for the blasted convolvulus which sneaks in, right at the back of a
border where I can't get to it and winds its way up e.g. phlox or
penstemons! Ray refuses to do the 'train it up a bamboo can and kill it'
thing and nor will he allow plastic bags full of weed killer. I do see
his point about the latter, it works but it's not pretty! Otherwise, all
is doing pretty much as you describe. Our aim to cover every inch of soil
is almost attained, except where there are new plantings. Our Clematis
rehderiana is coming into flower which seems a bit early to me. What do
you think, Charlie? We have the impression, this year, that things are
kind of racing to get into flower and going over more quickly, too.
--
Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
South Devon



Arm yourself with one of those small hand misters for house plants (usually
about 50p) and write weed killer on it big and bold! fill with roundup and
in the spring go around daily and squirt the bind weed as it appears, there
is usually enough space, any that is already in a clump has to be unwound
and lain on the ground before being squirted, this is where you have to
trust your partner who at this point is holding you glass of wine!!


--
Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall
Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella
and Lapageria rosea cvs
http://www.roselandhouse.co.uk

On Jun 27, 10:41*am, Martin wrote:
On Mon, 27 Jun 2011 08:56:08 +0100, "Bob Hobden"
wrote:

It's that loose dry soil that stops more weeds germinating so it's what you
want. Sounds like your hoe is not sharp enough, it needs to be knife sharp.
The Wolf Garten Multitool Push Pull weeder is self sharpening and worth
every penny which is why Kew, the RHS etc all use them.

http://www.worldofwolf.co.uk/Product...eeder--RFM%201...

RFM10 or RFM 15?
--

Martin

RFM10 - the RFM15 is hard work and too wide in crowded plantings.

Rod

On Jun 27, 10:44*am, "Charlie Pridham"
wrote:
"Laura Corin" wrote in message

...







Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and
I'm not sure what makes sense. *If you are weeding between
shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?
- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched
surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting
them off?
- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?
- do you compost your annual weeds? *If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?
- how meticulous are you in your weeding? *Do you get up every last tiny
weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?
- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? *If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

Thanks for any help you can give,

Laura

I am an untidy and lazy gardener, we do very little weeding during the
summer hoping that the winter work and mulch will keep things under control.
Deep rooted stuff like bind weed gets squirted with roundup early in the
season before all the other plants cover over, all other weeding is
conducted with a glass of wine in one hand (this stops a quick pull up of
about to seed weeds turning into a 2 hour work up)
I never ever dig any part of the garden
I never ever take away any weeds I pull up I just leave them on the surface.
We do wander around the garden everyday and deal with any weeds straight
away before they seed.
Here weeding is a very minor job and certainly occupies very little of the
time. Find away to reduce grass cutting and I would love to hear from you! I
have my 1 acre down to 40 mins but that's every week and I resent the time
spent

--
Charlie, Gardening in Cornwall
Holders of National Collections of Clematis viticella
and Lapageria rosea cvshttp://www.roselandhouse.co.uk- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mine is rather similar without the wine. I did though ensure a clean
start when we moved here by fallowing and spraying in the first season
while moving in, building the workshop etc.
A walk around the garden with pauses to pull up a few seedlings a
couple of times a day and probably about every 10 days or so, a check
for any remnants of bindweed and for any remnants of the oxalis that
came in with some topsoil.
Hoeing is kept to a minimum because I like to encourage some of my
plants to self sow, it's easier to control things by hand weeding if
they've not got too much out of hand.
'Lurkers' get pulled whenever they're found. So it's all fairly
painless.You've probably gathered by now that it's fairly densly
planted so there isn't much bare soil showing anyway.
As for reducing mowing - well - " Off to the garden centre, I'm just
going to make one more 'last' new border over there luv ;~))"
I also made sure the new mower was big enough to keep mowing down to
well under an hour per week.

Rod

On Jun 26, 4:45*pm, Laura Corin Laura.Corin.
wrote:
Ludicrous question, I know, but I keep trying different techniques and
I'm not sure what makes sense. *If you are weeding between
shrubs/perennials:

- do you pull up weeds, fork them up or hoe them?
- if you hoe, how do you deal with a very loose, previously mulched
surface, where the hoe just pushes the weeds around, rather than cutting
them off?
- do you spray deep-rooted perennials or try to dig them up again and
again?
- do you compost your annual weeds? *If so, how do you identify/separate
perennials for the bin?
- how meticulous are you in your weeding? *Do you get up every last tiny
weed, and does doing that make a real difference to regrowth?
- do you mulch to reduce regrowth? *If so, what do you use and how much
reduction do you get?

Thanks for any help you can give,

Laura

--
Laura Corin

The best thing to do with weeds among permanent plants (eg shrubs) is
to put down a mulch to prevent them.
I put down shredded hedge clippings. Lasts about a year before it
needs renewing.