On 25/08/2014 17:35, David Hill wrote:
On 25/08/2014 14:03, Spider wrote:
On 24/08/2014 23:29, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 24/08/2014 20:29, Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is
also clearer when the plant needs repotting.

It is arguably better to pot on in Spring but, if a plant really needs
potting up, I believe it is better and kinder to pot up when needed.
I've never had a problem with an out-of-season potting up. Indeed, it
won't be long before I'll need to pot up about 10 of mine.

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.






When you pick up the compost, have a good feel at the bag so you know it
has a reasonable quantity of bark. There seem to be slightly different
grades, although this appears to be accidental since there is no grading
on the label. I bought a bag in a hurry a few years ago and there was
less bark than usual, much of it being coarse composted bark, and some
of my Phalaenopsis failed due to lack of drainage. This less
well-drained compost was suitable for my Cambrias and Paphiopedilums
(which don't hold onto water as well as Phals) so the remainder wasn't
wasted.

If you look at your Phalaenopsis roots, you will see they are quite
fleshy (they should be!) and this enables them to hold on to water in
the manner of a succulent, though not for so long. Many other orchids -
cambrias, burragenea(sp?), odontoglossums, oncidiums - have much finer
roots, so cannot store water for long. Paphiopedilums have fairly thick
roots and fall between the two. Looking at the roots gives you a
helpful guide to their watering regime. This will be useful to you when
you increase your stock (you will!).

Going back to Phals, it's worth noting that if the end of their fleshy
roots is reddish, this is a sign of stress.

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?


No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.


All this talk of clear pots has me wondering, Half pint or Pint plastic
beer glasses with holes burned in should do the job quite well.
Any comments?
David @ a wet side of Swansea Bay



You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids. They're great short term, but too
brittle really for longer term or, indeed, for putting beer in - they
just split in my experience.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Bob Hobden" wrote in message ...

"Bertie Doe" wrote

"Spider" wrote
Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The planting
medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the forest bark
one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory orchid compost
which has a high bark content. I also use clear plastic pots. Although
many believe this isn't essential, it does mean the roots get some
sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it is also clearer when the plant
needs repotting.
snip

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some orchid
feed at the same time.


Be careful with your choice of orchid compost, most is suitable for
Cymbidiums not Phals which, as epiphytes, have their roots hanging in the
air where they dry out quickly.
I use bark chippings specially for orchids together with live sphagnum moss
and clear pots do allow the moss to grow in the pot and around the roots
which phals love.

Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?

On 25/08/2014 21:24, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Bob Hobden" wrote in message ...

"Bertie Doe" wrote

"Spider" wrote
Bertie Doe wrote:

My 2 plants are 4 and 5 years old. Hadn't thought about re-potting.

The planting medium looks like forest bark, is this correct?


Mmm .. maybe it's time you thought about repotting, then. The
planting medium must be well-drained and, yes, it does look like the
forest bark one mulches borders with. However, I use a proprietory
orchid compost which has a high bark content. I also use clear
plastic pots. Although many believe this isn't essential, it does
mean the roots get some sunlight (they can photosynthesise) and it
is also clearer when the plant needs repotting.
snip

Thx didn't realise there was a special compost. I'll pick up some
orchid feed at the same time.


Be careful with your choice of orchid compost, most is suitable for
Cymbidiums not Phals which, as epiphytes, have their roots hanging in
the air where they dry out quickly.
I use bark chippings specially for orchids together with live sphagnum
moss and clear pots do allow the moss to grow in the pot and around
the roots which phals love.

Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?





I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers. Do
you use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the basic
clear orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your outer pots
are fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at all.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?


No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.

Sorry Spider I have re read your posting and see I have to let the
orchids settle first, then share the tea and biscuits with them.

On 25/08/2014 22:56, David Hill wrote:
On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:

When you pot up your Phals, water them as usual to settle the new
compost around their roots, but don't feed straight away. Just because
when you move house you can't wait to put the kettle on and scoff
half a
packet of digestives, doesn't mean your Phals share the same
requirement! Let them settle in first.


I tried giving mine Digestives and they ignored them, I wonder if they
should have had a cup of tea to go with them?


No, David, the cup of tea and digestives are for you, after you've
pampered your orhcids, that is.

Sorry Spider I have re read your posting and see I have to let the
orchids settle first, then share the tea and biscuits with them.




Quite so, David. If they decline the biscuits, they are probably just
being polite, so scoff them yourself .. the biscuits, that is. Next
time offer them Butterfly buns (nearest I can get to Moth orchids!!).

Joking aside, I have a friend who gives her orchids tea (without milk)
when there's some left in the teapot. It stains the roots black, so it
seems to me that would stop them photosynthesising. That takes the biscuit!
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 24/08/2014 16:28, David Hill wrote:

snip, snip
... then cover them with a black bag over their head on the journey
home...
and snip again

Stops them being able to identify you or escape back to the supermarket.

--
regards andy

On 27/08/2014 08:31, News wrote:
On 24/08/2014 16:28, David Hill wrote:

snip, snip
... then cover them with a black bag over their head on the journey
home...
and snip again

Stops them being able to identify you or escape back to the supermarket.




LOL! I had the same thought :~)

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 25/08/2014 21:24, Bertie Doe wrote:


Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?



I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers. Do you
use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the basic clear
orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your outer pots are
fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at all.

Sorry Spider I misunderstood you, I thought you meant clear inner pots and
clear outer pots

No mine are clear inners (supplied) and solid china outers. I assume the gap
twixt the two is sufficient.

As you can see from the pic, both have a one-sided growth. Despite turning
them several times during the year. :-

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/336925/34644809

"Bertie Doe" wrote

"Spider" wrote

Bertie Doe wrote:


Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?



I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers. Do
you use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the basic clear
orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your outer pots are
fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at all.

Sorry Spider I misunderstood you, I thought you meant clear inner pots and
clear outer pots

No mine are clear inners (supplied) and solid china outers. I assume the
gap twixt the two is sufficient.

As you can see from the pic, both have a one-sided growth. Despite turning
them several times during the year. :-

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/336925/34644809


I refer you to my post of the 24th, that is their normal way of growing, see
the video of one in the wild.


--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:
You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids.

Spider - speaking of keikis, you might recall that you advised me on the
two that I seemed to get last year.

I've been too scared to think of trying to separate them, so they are
still attached to the original old flower shoots, but now one of them
has flowered while in place. I'm sure that this is normal, but it
really pleased me.

You can see a couple of phone (ie, not very good) shots of it at
http://1drv.ms/1rBW2hv (a link to my OneDrive).

There are two old flowering shoots, both of which I cut partially back
after flowering - and both of which developed keikis. One of them now
has its own flowering shoot

Thanks again

--
regards andy

On 27/08/2014 18:01, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

On 25/08/2014 21:24, Bertie Doe wrote:


Thanks all for the compost info. The window faces East and gets sun till
about 1pm in Summer. With clear pots, would the roots get baked?



I wouldn't have thought so, certainly not considering most summers.
Do you use clear outer pots, then? I can't imagine you'd put the
basic clear orchid pot straight on a window sill or table. If your
outer pots are fairly solid colour, then you should have no trouble at
all.

Sorry Spider I misunderstood you, I thought you meant clear inner pots
and clear outer pots



I see:~). No. All mine are solid ceramic pots, too. Of course, there
are some semi-see-through pots around with a swirl or cloud design, and
they would be even better, but I often put coffee jar lids (or the like)
in the bottom of my pots to aid drainage and a more see-through design
would show that.



No mine are clear inners (supplied) and solid china outers. I assume the
gap twixt the two is sufficient.


I make the same assumption, and my orchids seem to agree with me ;~).

As you can see from the pic, both have a one-sided growth. Despite
turning them several times during the year. :-

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/336925/34644809



Yes, this does seem to happen and I think it is in the nature of the
beast. Indeed, with some orchids (Cambria types and Oncidiums among
many), the growth habit tends to have new shoots/bulbs arising from one
side of the plant only. When potting on, it is essential to replant so
that the 'new growth' portion of the plant is more central to allow
plenty of room for new pseudobulbs to grow. This temporarily makes it
more upright, but the growth habit takes over and new growth gradually
fills the void and then starts leaning again.

I think if you love orchids, then you put up with their sometimes untidy
nature, lopsidedness and aerial roots being the main gripe.
I know someone who always cut the aerial roots off their Phals simply
because they looked untidy! ... then complained to me that her orchids
didn't do very well. Amazing!
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 28/08/2014 11:57, News wrote:
On 25/08/2014 18:57, Spider wrote:
You may be joking, but I've used the smaller plastic tumblers with holes
pierced when I couldn't get a small enough clear orchid pot for keikis,
divisions or very small orchids.

Spider - speaking of keikis, you might recall that you advised me on the
two that I seemed to get last year.

I've been too scared to think of trying to separate them, so they are
still attached to the original old flower shoots, but now one of them
has flowered while in place. I'm sure that this is normal, but it
really pleased me.

You can see a couple of phone (ie, not very good) shots of it at
http://1drv.ms/1rBW2hv (a link to my OneDrive).

There are two old flowering shoots, both of which I cut partially back
after flowering - and both of which developed keikis. One of them now
has its own flowering shoot

Thanks again



Yes, I do remember, Andy. I'm glad they've done so well for you. It's
interesting to see your pics, not least because I've got a Phal that's
doing just the same!:~). It is a charming sight. However, when mine's
finished flowering, I shall remove the keikis from the parent and pot
them up. I'm sure they'd be happy attached to the parent in their
jungly wild habitat because they'll get plenty of humidity, but in a
home setting where the air is drier (and where central heating will soon
make that worse), there may be a danger of the roots drying out. They
may get enough moisture and nourishment from the parent plant, but I
want the parent to thrive and give me flowers, so I shall separate them
so they can grow in glorious isolation.

I do understand your nervousness about severing the connection. Live
with it while all three plants seem healthy, but separate them at any
sign of stress. You could, of course, try 'air layering'. Pack some
damp sphagnum moss around the keiki roots (with the help of cling film
or a plastic bag) and leave the young roots to grow on. You will then
be more confident about the separation. This is usually a very reliable
procedure (esp where you've got roots already), but probably not that
pretty, so you may want to 'rest' the plant in a less used room.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote




Yes, this does seem to happen and I think it is in the nature of the beast.
Indeed, with some orchids (Cambria types and Oncidiums among many), the
growth habit tends to have new shoots/bulbs arising from one side of the
plant only. When potting on, it is essential to replant so that the 'new
growth' portion of the plant is more central to allow plenty of room for
new pseudobulbs to grow. This temporarily makes it more upright, but the
growth habit takes over and new growth gradually fills the void and then
starts leaning again.

I think if you love orchids, then you put up with their sometimes untidy
nature, lopsidedness and aerial roots being the main gripe.
I know someone who always cut the aerial roots off their Phals simply
because they looked untidy! ... then complained to me that her orchids
didn't do very well. Amazing!


I wonder what they would do to those in the family that don't have any
leaves, only roots?
--
Regards. Bob Hobden.
Posted to this Newsgroup from the W of London, UK

On 29/08/2014 13:54, Bob Hobden wrote:
"Spider" wrote




Yes, this does seem to happen and I think it is in the nature of the
beast. Indeed, with some orchids (Cambria types and Oncidiums among
many), the growth habit tends to have new shoots/bulbs arising from
one side of the plant only. When potting on, it is essential to
replant so that the 'new growth' portion of the plant is more central
to allow plenty of room for new pseudobulbs to grow. This temporarily
makes it more upright, but the growth habit takes over and new growth
gradually fills the void and then starts leaning again.

I think if you love orchids, then you put up with their sometimes
untidy nature, lopsidedness and aerial roots being the main gripe.
I know someone who always cut the aerial roots off their Phals simply
because they looked untidy! ... then complained to me that her orchids
didn't do very well. Amazing!


I wonder what they would do to those in the family that don't have any
leaves, only roots?



You might well wonder, Bob! I suspect that, since they had little
success with Phals, they didn't venture into the more esoteric.

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 30/08/2014 20:51, Bertie Doe wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message ...

I think if you love orchids, then you put up with their sometimes
untidy nature, lopsidedness and aerial roots being the main gripe.

Yes I love them, even though I only have 2' I know phals are unfairly
called the 'supermarket orchid. Space is a bit limited and come late
Autumn the porch is home for my carnivores.

I read some forum posts about propagation from seed using flasks etc.
Problem is, what happens if you end up with 200 Phalenopsis :-)

There may be case for propping the more exotic types. You could aim for
200 and end up with 2 or 3. A much more manageable number :-

http://www.orchidforum.eu/

I'll leave propagation to the geeks :-)


Nice link.
Thanks