I've got a path running along the back of a border which I'ld like to make
into a bit of a feature. I was thinking along the lines of posts set
alternately either side of the path with wire up them and zig-zagging
between their tops, up which I'd grow a variety of fragrant climbers.

Q1: How high should I build it to stop the climbers/wires getting in peoples
faces?

Q2: If I fix the posts with met-posts ( I really don't want to concrete),
will the tension in the wires between their tops be too much and end up
pulling them over?

Thanks,

Martin

In article ,
"Martin Sykes" writes:
| I've got a path running along the back of a border which I'ld like to make
| into a bit of a feature. I was thinking along the lines of posts set
| alternately either side of the path with wire up them and zig-zagging
| between their tops, up which I'd grow a variety of fragrant climbers.
|
| Q1: How high should I build it to stop the climbers/wires getting in peoples
| faces?

8' at least.

| Q2: If I fix the posts with met-posts ( I really don't want to concrete),
| will the tension in the wires between their tops be too much and end up
| pulling them over?

Yes. Metposts are a near-complete waste of time. If someone tries
to sell you any, tell him where to put them. If he persists, put
them there yourself.


I really must write a FAQ on how to do this :-)

To do that in an average soil, buy 3m50 x 75mm square tanalised
posts (or 80 cm diameter round, if you can get them and prefer).
Sharpen one end with a saw at at least 45 degrees, and buy or make
a post protector if you want. If you don't use the last, make sure
the ends of the points are not cracked and be careful to hit centrally
with the hammer.

Dig a hole 1-1.5 spits deep and one wide with a spade. Dig a
small hole in the middle of that with a trowel. The bottom should
now be 65-80 cm below soil level. Then put the post in (sharp end
down!) and knock it down to 2m50 above the soil with a club hammer
or similar, using a plumb line or spirit level to keep it vertical.
An assistant is helpful but not critical, and a stepladder is
critical!

Then fill in the hole, compacting the soil around the post as you
proceed. You can now wire up, but don't attempt to get the wire
taut - you will need to brace the posts to do that, or could use
more tanalised timber (e.g. 75mm x 50mm) across the top.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

You could make the posts more sturdy by adding some 'no mix' cement to it.
On the other hand, it would give quite a mess if you'd want to remove them.
I only use it for heavy duty posts, like ones i hang a door on in my fence.

To keep the posts from rotting, I'd advise you to paint the bottom part of
the posts with tar-like stuff. Beware of pollution that might get into the
soil, though.

greetz
Marco

"Nick Maclaren" schreef in bericht
...

In article ,
"Martin Sykes" writes:
| I've got a path running along the back of a border which I'ld like to
make
| into a bit of a feature. I was thinking along the lines of posts set
| alternately either side of the path with wire up them and zig-zagging
| between their tops, up which I'd grow a variety of fragrant climbers.
|
| Q1: How high should I build it to stop the climbers/wires getting in
peoples
| faces?

8' at least.

| Q2: If I fix the posts with met-posts ( I really don't want to
concrete),
| will the tension in the wires between their tops be too much and end up
| pulling them over?

Yes. Metposts are a near-complete waste of time. If someone tries
to sell you any, tell him where to put them. If he persists, put
them there yourself.


I really must write a FAQ on how to do this :-)

To do that in an average soil, buy 3m50 x 75mm square tanalised
posts (or 80 cm diameter round, if you can get them and prefer).
Sharpen one end with a saw at at least 45 degrees, and buy or make
a post protector if you want. If you don't use the last, make sure
the ends of the points are not cracked and be careful to hit centrally
with the hammer.

Dig a hole 1-1.5 spits deep and one wide with a spade. Dig a
small hole in the middle of that with a trowel. The bottom should
now be 65-80 cm below soil level. Then put the post in (sharp end
down!) and knock it down to 2m50 above the soil with a club hammer
or similar, using a plumb line or spirit level to keep it vertical.
An assistant is helpful but not critical, and a stepladder is
critical!

Then fill in the hole, compacting the soil around the post as you
proceed. You can now wire up, but don't attempt to get the wire
taut - you will need to brace the posts to do that, or could use
more tanalised timber (e.g. 75mm x 50mm) across the top.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679

In article ,
"N. van Burgsteden" writes:
| You could make the posts more sturdy by adding some 'no mix' cement to it.
| On the other hand, it would give quite a mess if you'd want to remove them.
| I only use it for heavy duty posts, like ones i hang a door on in my fence.

I advise against it, as you need it at least 30 cms across and 20 deep
to be of much use, and that gets in the way of planting climbers.

| To keep the posts from rotting, I'd advise you to paint the bottom part of
| the posts with tar-like stuff. Beware of pollution that might get into the
| soil, though.

That's why I said tanalised. I can tell you that soaking posts in
creosote or painting them with tar will not give them a life of
more than a few years.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computing Service,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QH, England.
Email:
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679