I gathered some Angel Trumpet & Confederate Rose stalks in late
November after the leaf drop. I cut them into 12" pieces and stuck the
in containers of tap water. They are growing tops like crazy and the
Angel Trumpet sticks have roots 4 to 6" long already. The Confederate
Rose sticks don't seem to have roots yet.

What should I do next?

Thanks for any enlightenment!!

Tom J

On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 00:19:36 GMT, "Tom J"
wrote:

I gathered some Angel Trumpet & Confederate Rose stalks in late
November after the leaf drop. I cut them into 12" pieces and stuck the
in containers of tap water. They are growing tops like crazy and the
Angel Trumpet sticks have roots 4 to 6" long already. The Confederate
Rose sticks don't seem to have roots yet.

What should I do next?

Thanks for any enlightenment!!

Tom J



Water roots can be quite brittle, so they have to be handled
delicately. In order to save them I would add dirt to the water
slowly, let it settle around the roots and dry out a bit to have some
support.

that's for the angle trumpet, for the confederate rose, I know
nothing.

"Tom J" wrote in message
ink.net...
I gathered some Angel Trumpet .............What should I do next?

Thanks for any enlightenment!!


Make some tea with the leaves and flowers. I double-damn guarantee you will
get enlightenment!!

"Tom J" wrote in message
ink.net...
I gathered some Angel Trumpet & Confederate Rose stalks in late November
after the leaf drop. I cut them into 12" pieces and stuck the in containers
of tap water. They are growing tops like crazy and the Angel Trumpet sticks
have roots 4 to 6" long already. The Confederate Rose sticks don't seem to
have roots yet.

What should I do next?

My brugmansias grew very large and since they were in pots, were toppled by
high winds last summer. I put the pieces that broke off in a bucket of
water and some of them rooted. Like yours, the rood got quite long before I
got around to potting them. I put them in large pots with a mixture of
potting soil and organic peat. They didn't miss a beat. I have two of them
on my kitchen table right now and I gave some away. The mother plants were
severally pruned so I could get them into the house for the winter. They
are semi-dormant in my basement. You can see them he
http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=731
http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=732
http://groups.msn.com/laurelridgegar...to&PhotoID=795

On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 00:19:36 GMT, "Tom J"
wrote:

I gathered some Angel Trumpet & Confederate Rose stalks in late
November after the leaf drop. I cut them into 12" pieces and stuck the
in containers of tap water. They are growing tops like crazy and the
Angel Trumpet sticks have roots 4 to 6" long already. The Confederate
Rose sticks don't seem to have roots yet.

What should I do next?

Thanks for any enlightenment!!

Tom J


I agree with adding soil or actually soiless mix to the water and
gradually pour more and more water out each few days. Use refined
vermiculite (seed starting mix) so it's sterile. I've had problems
with rot and while I'm not saying you would have problems, you may as
well use something which is not carrying any pathogens the water roots
may not be hardy enough to ward off. If you have any michorrizae
around, put that on the roots or in the water.

"Jangchub" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 00:19:36 GMT, "Tom J"
wrote:

I gathered some Angel Trumpet & Confederate Rose stalks in late
November after the leaf drop. I cut them into 12" pieces and stuck
the
in containers of tap water. They are growing tops like crazy and the
Angel Trumpet sticks have roots 4 to 6" long already. The
Confederate
Rose sticks don't seem to have roots yet.

What should I do next?

Thanks for any enlightenment!!

Tom J


I agree with adding soil or actually soiless mix to the water and
gradually pour more and more water out each few days. Use refined
vermiculite (seed starting mix) so it's sterile. I've had problems
with rot and while I'm not saying you would have problems, you may
as
well use something which is not carrying any pathogens the water
roots
may not be hardy enough to ward off. If you have any michorrizae
around, put that on the roots or in the water.

Thanks. I already moved each stalk to it's own tapered container and
added sterile rooting mix I got from my local nursery that does a lot
of stem rooting themselves. He gave me a small bag of fertilizer he
buys by the 100# for his own cuttings. He told me to start light
feeding in a couple of weeks, and transplant in mid March, so I think
I'm on the right track to have blooms this 1st summer. There is a
county compost station near me that he also uses material from when he
moves his starters to larger pots, so I'll be getting that for fee
when needed.

Tom J

On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 19:28:40 GMT, "Tom J"
wrote:

Thanks. I already moved each stalk to it's own tapered container and
added sterile rooting mix I got from my local nursery that does a lot
of stem rooting themselves. He gave me a small bag of fertilizer he
buys by the 100# for his own cuttings. He told me to start light
feeding in a couple of weeks, and transplant in mid March, so I think
I'm on the right track to have blooms this 1st summer. There is a
county compost station near me that he also uses material from when he
moves his starters to larger pots, so I'll be getting that for fee
when needed.

Tom J


Oh you will have 6 foot plants this year! The only variety I find to
be slow growing is 'Peaches and Cream.' Brugs which are rooted
cuttings always flower the first year. The seed grown brugs may not
bloom the first year because they have relatively poor root systems
and depend on the fungal threads for the first year. They are huge
feeders and will require plenty of fertilizer. When I repot mine
after the winter is over I incorporate fertilizer with the half
compost, half pottting mix. You can start them right off into 10
gallon containers because they will fast need transplanting into
larger tubs. If in the ground, I really do recommend you make sure
you use fungal based compost (vegetative materials). The one virus
they are susceptible to is tobacco mosaic, but they can survive if
kept watered and fertilized.

If you want them to look like trees, you have to limb them up and when
you do, make sure you dip the sequitors into a one part bleach, nine
parts water solution between each cut. In the wild they self prune
out the bottom stems.

Good luck and if you get into it big, there's a great book called
Englestrompeten. I have it in English and German.

V